|
Problem description: While playing games monitors will go black, pc shuts completely off, then it will boot back up again like nothing happened. No BSOD, no notification after rebooting. Has only happened while playing Games so far. Can get it to reliably happen again by playing anything generally taxing like Doom 2016. This has only started today and totaled 3 restarts. Event Viewer Errors: code:code:code:code:code:code:Here is screenshot of my HWMonitor idling after reboot. It's hard to tell if all the system fans are accounted for and working. Hard for me to keep track of and understand. Like I said during a game the GPU temp never went above 62c. I'm a little more hazy on the CPU temps as I don't want to cause another shutdown if I can help it but I never notice them even hitting 60c.  (Honestly, between a new fan not working, and previous problems with this 6 year old case I feel like just buying a new one outright instead of buying yet another case fan and replacing it. Especially if I end up not getting the right size fan) -- Operating system: Windows 10 Pro. System specs: - ASUS Z170-A Motherboard - Intel Core i5-6600K CPU @ 3.50Ghz - 16GB RAM - MSI GTX 970 All parts besides the computer case itself and one of my Hard Drives are just turning a year old this month. Location: East USA I have Googled and read the FAQ: Yes _______________________________________________________________________ TL;DR I believe my PC is overheating and shutting itself off, that another case fan has stopped working. But I'm confused as I don't know if Temperatures are going high enough during games to cause overheating. Thank you for taking a look at my thread. I know this may just sound like a stupid and obvious problem to fix, but I just wanted a second opinion before I decide to do anything as I have no confidence in myself not to screw something up.
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 07:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 04:49 |
|
|
Ularg posted:
What PSU do you have? Is it also a year old like your new components, or the same age as the case? If your temps aren't reaching much above 60c, it doesn't sound like an overheating issue. Did you record these temps while playing games that cause your computer to turn off?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 09:27
|
|
|
Actuarial Fables posted:What PSU do you have? Is it also a year old like your new components, or the same age as the case? Yup, I had the game running on one monitor and HWMonitor on the other monitor. I wish there was a way to record it to view it after a shutdown, but as I kept looking back it never got above that 60ish mark. PSU is also just turning a year old now, EVGA 550 G2 Supernova (550 Watt PSU) I also opened the side panel of the case up and use a regular fan to circulate air out of the case but it didn't help. Could a dead case fan still connected to the Mobo cause problems? Besides the overheating issue, just having it connected and possibly drawing power. I'm able to run the computer for as long as I want, hours and hours after this problem started and have no issue until I start running demanding games like Doom 2016, Mad Max, and Homefront The Revolution.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 10:21
|
|
|
Ularg posted:Yup, I had the game running on one monitor and HWMonitor on the other monitor. I wish there was a way to record it to view it after a shutdown, but as I kept looking back it never got above that 60ish mark. Having a broken case fan plugged in shouldn't be causing these problems, but if you've got the case open already you may as well pull it. I can't imagine the ~3 watts at max the fan could pull would be enough to take down the system. Are you overclocking your CPU and/or GPU? What do you have your computer plugged into (the wall, a power strip, ups)? Do you have your old PSU still? I don't know if hwmonitor does, but many computer sensor programs (HWiNFO for example) will allow you to log to a file. I'm not totally convinced that the issue here is temperature related though. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Jan 4, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 11:37
|
|
|
Don't have old PSU anymore. I'm not overclocking at all, cause I'm stupid and that seems like an easy way for me to break my PC. I try to have a set up as simple as possible. PC is plugged in through a power strip. Figured if there were any surges happening that isn't protected by the surge protector than anything elselike my speakers would go out with the pc since they're plugged into the same power strip. And being only happening today and only during gaming. I'm probably gonna go ahead and make sure I have up to date everything.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 12:02
|
|
|
Fully updated my PC through windows update, and my GPU driver was already up to date. Still randomly shuts down. Event Viewer errors in the last hour: Critical 41 Kernel-Power Error 56 Application Popup 1060 Application Popup 6008 EventLog 7000 Service Control Manager x2 10016 DistributedCOM Warning 219 Kernel-PnP Ularg fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jan 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 03:40
|
|
|
Not sure what I can try anymore, if the warranty on computer parts only lasts a year then I'm running up to that point now and not sure if I should try contacting support for Mobo, PSU or whatever. I just have no idea what's causing this. And I forgot that at some point while I was asleep the computer rebooted itself, as I went to sleep with the PC running audio (that I do every night, it helps me fall asleep) and woke up to the login screen. Shut the computer all the way down and went back to sleep, so when I tested it today it was on a fresh boot and everything. System clock is running fine, cmos battery is maybe 6 months old. If I take a look at event viewer in chronological order:  
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 04:02
|
|
|
Is it possible that it's a problem with the power button on my caes? It's extremely old and that's the only thing I could think of happening. Where would I go and what would I have to buy to fix it? Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B009CWY8PA I think I may be able to trouble shoot whether or not the power button is broken by disconnecting it and then turning my PC on like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY7CQU7fLY0 Unsure whether it's a safe thing to do or not. If I need to be grounded and using anti-static wristband while doing it. Ularg fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Jan 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 04:27
|
|
|
Changed out which surge protector I was using and ran a stress test, computer shut down in not even 10 minutes of both Prime95 and Furmark. CPU and GPU temps capped out at 66c. Before then I've had my PC running all night with just Chrome going and had no issues. So it might be PSU afterall.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 16:25
|
|
|
I'd try that. Your power supply may still be under warranty too. Link: http://www.evga.com/support/warranty/power-supplies/
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2017 02:02
|
|
|
Welp, I thought I fixed the problem by getting a battery backup power strip. It worked fine for a few days with no problems whatsoever, even under stress testing. But today it's back to shutting itself off during games, this time Elite Dangerous. Event ID 56 - Application Popup The description for Event ID 56 from source Application Popup cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer. If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event. The following information was included with the event: ACPI 5 the message resource is present but the message is not found in the string/message table __________________________________________ Event ID 6008 - EventLog Event ID 41 - Kernel-Power So I don't know what the gently caress to do again. I figured it couldn't be the power supply if simply connecting it to a brand new surge protector with battery backup fixed it but now it's back to doing what it did before with no loving reason why.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2017 23:36
|
|
|
Disconnect any broken fans and use onboard video temporarily. Run the portable zip edition of CDI to check HD health: http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html Also, run http://www.memtest.org/ overnight to check for RAM errors. If the HD and RAM are okay and you're still getting freezing with onboard video then I'd try a new PSU.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2017 01:26
|
|
|
How long should memtest run if not overnight. So far I've ran it for an hour, it is hard to keep track of how much it has done and how much to go. 0 errors so far, though. I got this program recommended to me that helps read dump files and while so far it has only kept ones from last year they all point to the current nvidia drivers as the crashing culprit, 376.33 I think. Posting from my phone so it's hard to tell without stopping the memtest.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 01:19
|
|
|
Okay it says test complete but I can have it run again overnight. Just hard for me since I depend on the computer for playing audio to help me sleep. Here's screenshots of CDI health for both my drives. C: is a year old Samsung SSD, D: is a 5-6 year old Western Digital.   Here's the Memtest I took a picture with my phone:  I actually have zero idea on how to switch to onboard video short of taking out my GPU and I'm afraid I'll end up screwing something up, especially if I leave in or try to uninstall the GPU drivers in the process. I'm starting to get the feeling if not the PSU but the drivers constantly crashing, this isn't the first time I've had problems with Nvidia drivers. I always do clean installations when I upgrade but I use the geforce experience to do the upgrading, which is probably not the best thing to do. Only reason I upgraded 376.33 was because it required me to so I could play Battlefield 1. (BF1 wouldn't launch it would just give me a popup to upgrade Drivers). So I did a fresh reinstallation. The only other option is to either revert to previous drivers and use different games to test this or to go to their beta drivers hoping it would have a fix. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 01:45
|
|
|
Ularg posted:How long should memtest run if not overnight. So far I've ran it for an hour, it is hard to keep track of how much it has done and how much to go. 0 errors so far, though. Two passes is what I like to do but your RAM is probably okay. The HDs look okay too. Ularg posted:I actually have zero idea on how to switch to onboard video short of taking out my GPU and I'm afraid I'll end up screwing something up, especially if I leave in or try to uninstall the GPU drivers in the process. You'd just have to take the GPU out and then plug monitor into motherboard video. If you don't want to do that yet you can run http://www.wagnardsoft.com/display-driver-uninstaller-ddu to remove all GPU drivers and then install the latest Nvidia ones.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 02:14
|
|
|
Alright, thanks. I just did a clean install of the nvidia drivers. If that doesn't work I'll use that tool to remove them before installing them again, and if THAT doesn't work I'll go back to the previous drivers where I don't remember having any issues. Is this like a thing where Nvidia regularly fucks up drivers? I remember one last year that got people stuck in boot loops. I hope it's clear that I'm really praying it's the Drivers loving up and not the PSU afterall. And sorry about the slowness on the tests you ask me to do. It takes a lot of energy and causes stress to do this stuff so I kinda have to space it out. I hurt my back just trying to plug in a USB drive on the back slots.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 02:31
|
|
|
Ularg posted:Is this like a thing where Nvidia regularly fucks up drivers? I remember one last year that got people stuck in boot loops. Yea, it's an issue from time to time. Especially if you have to keep using the latest ones to keep up with all the new games. Driver issues and driver conflicts (not just with video cards) have been a scourge for a long time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 07:19
|
|
|
Could be an issue with the 12v rail on the PSU, it would be odd to see video drivers cause a systems to hard crash nowadays. GPU temps should be fine if they are under 80C (under load) CPU should be fine if they are under 70C (under load) The 550 G2 has adequate 12v rail output  and MSI state that their 970's require 28a  How old is the PSU? The caps can age and as a result reduce the output of the psu. Run a Furmark GPU load test and see if the system crashes exactly as you describe, if it does my money would be on the PSU being sus. http://www.ozone3d.net/benchmarks/fur/ Ularg posted:
i would not be grounding myself if the PC is connected to the mains.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 12:12
|
|
|
PSU is 1 year old, and yea I used the wrong words in the post you quoted. Since reinstalling the drivers though I've had no crashes in Battlefield 1 multi after 5 hours of playing when it would crash within the first 30 minutes before. I've ran Furmark plenty of times, neither CPU or GPU go above 65-66C under load, and don't go above 40 idle. Furmark would make the computer reboot in 10 minutes before I plugged it into a PSU which then it would run forever, but the reboots/crashes during games remained. I've done both prime95 and furmark tests too. I'm keeping out hope it was a driver issue, which would make sense since all the crashes have happened since this driver update. If it still randomly reboots while playing Elite Dangerous I'll know it's the PSU, but that'll be something I test tomorrow since it's late.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 12:21
|
|
|
Alright, before it was maybe 30 minutes of BF1 multiplayer before a hard freeze. I've now played 6 hours straight with no issues. Going to sleep now, will test Elite Dangerous tomorrow. Cross your fingers and pray for me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 14:23
|
|
|
Doing a clean install of the video drivers stopped Battlefield 1 from crashing as far as I know after being able to play for 6 hours straight with no problems and having another session the next day with no problems. But playing Elite Dangerous for a short amount of time still causes random reboots and even after making sure Windows creates crash dump files there is no minidump file or memory.dmp dated before this year. If it's the PSU going bad wouldn't it affect every recent game I try to play it on and not just a few specific ones? Not sure what to do at this point again. I guess my hope that it was a driver issue is dashed and I'm back again to a dying PSU. Ularg fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 03:09
|
|
|
So some advice I read online was to double check the cables, possibly that one of them has worked its way loose. But nope no such luck, everything is connected snug. I also set the computer to not automatically restart on system failure/crash. I reinstalled DirectX for Elite Dangerous and varified integrity of game cache and ran it on 32 bit instead of 64 bit but even with all those changes it still just turns itself off and then a second later boots back up. It looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and make the call tomorrow. I'm sorry if I've seemed to be avoiding that fact, hoping it was some other problem, but I'm just frustrated and a bit scared. Because I will have to unplug the PSU, box it up and send it out to them for repair and all the time it takes them to fix it will be me completely without a computer. I have my phone but I absolutely detest using this, especially for browsing/posting on SA. And having to use it to play podcasts hopefully. Not to mention all the games that are now inaccessible to me, even when they aren't causing reboots right now like Battlefield 1. It's just really stressful and I doubt they'll be the kind of awesome company that just sends you a new one and doesn't need to hold onto my PSU for weeks as they repair it. I sent out my PS4 to get fixed not too long ago, and it was away for over a week and the system lost the tracking on it, and when I got it back it turned out to be a completely brand new ps4 anyway. All that time without it when I really wanted it. But I wanted to thank everyone again for all your help troubleshooting and a bunch of great programs I'll have to hold onto for the future. Now I just have to find out what my drat Windows 10 activation key is (Free upgraded from Windows 8.1) so that when it detects the Hardware change I can actually use my computer.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 04:27
|
|
|
Ularg posted:If it's the PSU going bad wouldn't it affect every recent game I try to play it on and not just a few specific ones? Not sure what to do at this point again. A failing PSU can be very random so at times it's hard to diagnose. You can still use onboard video temporarily without having to RMA the PSU yet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 06:54
|
|
|
What hardware changes are you going to make? I don't know that you will have to re-enter your product key. If you do, though, PCAdvisor recommended ProduKey - http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/produkey.html PCWorld has a PowerShell script you can run to get the key too - http://www.pcworld.com/article/2970075/windows/why-you-cant-find-your-product-key-after-upgrading-to-windows-10.html You would save this as a .vbs supposedly... I'll try to run it on my laptop in a bit here. code:
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 15:47
|
|
|
New drivers came out not too long ago, tested once again to make sure Elite Dangerous still causes PC to reboot, happened within 5 minutes. Ran fine idle for that 5 minutes, then I clicked starport services and it instantly turned off. So I updated the drivers clean, rebooted, and so far I've been running it for 20 minutes, half idle in a space station when it happened last, other half running those tutorial missions and challenges. Swear to God if all this stress was over Nvidia and their lovely drivers...
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
Nope, nevermind. It took longer but it still eventually rebooted. I just don't know how I'm going to get a warranty repair/replacement on a PSU if all I have as evidence is one game. I feel like I have to bite the bullet and just buy a brand new PSU, this time with way more power than I actually need, just in case.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2017 22:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 04:49 |
|
|
It's a long shot but does your GPU come with a factory overclock? I had the same problem once and I fixed it by setting all the frequencys or whatever to bone stock nvidia reference card levels with a program called MSI After Burner. My card was a much much older 285 gtx but I guess it's worth a shot.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2017 21:28
|
|