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As the days go on, I learn more and more about this thing and it's past. The parts guy at Mazda said it was originally an automatic as that was the only fiche the vin brought up. On the bright side, one of the nine harnesses in a Californian warehouse can be mine for a blonde one short of $1800. I drat near fell over. Even the parts guy was blown away at hoe much it was. Well, I was pretty sure I had spark; the tingling in my finger and elbow says there was spark. No spark now though, the only difference being the PFC and removing the parts store ground that was squished into the negative terminal and went to a threaded hole in the fender. Through doing that the displayed voltage is now up to 10.2v on the PFC readout. This is key on, no fuel pump relay: 
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Feb 22, 2017 07:08
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| # ? May 2, 2024 19:59 |
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the spyder posted:Let me clear this up. So that's how the FD does it! (FC used voodoo and airflow position ) I'm also going with tow start but make sure you crank the motor first to get oil pressure. (Biggest killer of race motor bearings....) Edit: oh DoH! Check for a fuel or ignition killswitch or signs of one.. Or a turbo timer. further edit. it doesn't have that stupid won't start unless the clutch is in thing does it? Kaptainballistik fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 07:15
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$1800 for a loom isn't bad tbh. Skyline R32 GTR loom I had to replace one time due to similar PO gently caress ups ran upwards of 3000 gbp.
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Feb 22, 2017 14:22
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Jesus, this reaffirms my commitment to never delve into post-EFI OEM wiring harnesses. Good luck though, always great to see more rotary folks.
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Feb 22, 2017 15:40
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I pulled the upper intake manifold off to check power to coils with ker on (there is) and almost every solenoid connector has a resistor and heatshrink with glue. Only two solenoids are still being used. Non sequential conversion? So, the ignitor and coils show battery power with key on, pfc shows 200 - 215 rpm cranking rpm, tach needle does not bounce. Still no spark.
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Feb 23, 2017 07:29
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Engine harness on the way, dash sitting on the floor. I pulled the rear storage compartments in to aid in removing the awful stereo wiring only to find standing water under the two lowest points where the compartments are. The carpet matting is soaked all the way up behind the dash and has left a lot of rust in its wake. Nothing terminal, but it looks like it was on its track. It looks like I am tracing the PO's steps here - the main ground under the dash has been sanded clean and some craptacular wiring has been unearthed. There were a few terminals that had corroded in half out of the connector that went into the interior fuse box. I'm going to have loads of fun now. Why did Mazda make it impossible to remove the carpet without removing the HVAC box? On a related note, is there a way to bench test the cluster, outside of the car? With the near daily snow that should be keeping the off road riding action in my neck of the woods sedate, I have 3 engine builds, suspension valving and bringing a burnt down KTM back to life on my plate ahead of this thing. Progress may be slow.
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Mar 8, 2017 09:56
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This old FD of mine Been broken a thousand times Each time I drive away I don't think the apex seals are going to stay To the tune of "This old heart of mine" by Rod Stewart
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Mar 8, 2017 22:25
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You Am I posted:This old FD of mine Alternatively: Johnny Cash - Looking forward to what's involved in a full harness swap for these. Also, at $1800 I'm surprised no-one in the aftermarket scene makes replacements. Even if you say, sell them at $1299 shipped, that's a lot of profit. Are the connectors/plugs still available to buy separately? I'd imagine they're just standard Mazda ones. Hmm, now I'm getting business ideas since I'm currently not working... Jomo fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Mar 10, 2017 |
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Mar 10, 2017 00:19
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After not looking at this thing in over two weeks, I managed to spend nearly a kilobuck on it while only finding more loving work that a PO is causing me! You guys had me all stoked on having a good challenge of pulling the dash and heater box, this was easier to do than a heater core on my ZJ. A quick google said I will need to remove the upper intake and move the ABS pump and heat shield out of the way to undo the heater core and AC lines and prepare for a 2 hour fight. I had all of the lines undone in under 10 minutes with long bent nose needle nose pliers and three wrenches. The longest part of that ordeal was figuring a way to fit my jack under the lip so I could jack up the car enough to undo the rear bolt on the radiator air scoop and drain the coolant.  This weekend we had the two nicest days this year so far. The urge to dust off my other oil burning toy was strong, but I made use of the sun instead and washed the carpet. The matting on the footwells and trans tunnel is nasty and has seen better days, but the carpet is in good shape - I'm going to affix some new stuff that my shop just throws out.  Pulling up the carpet revealed some rather unfortunate news:  gently caress, I can poke the heat shield behind. One other small bit failed the screw driver test, I'm going to pull the heat shield and see if it is any worse on the other side. Nothing is lose or completely rotted out and I'm not going for a concourse level restoration. A wire wheel and SEMkit may be in my near future.  In more positive news, an immaculate, uncut harness showed up at my door, shame I'll only be using about half of the connectors when all is said and done. Also a box showed up!    Pretty decent SMIC XS intercooler and piping. The ducting looks like it was torn out of an old apartment and fashioned into what I got. I'm sure it will be a good template and reason to use some of the aluminum sheeting and box brake I have kicking around. I found a good place for an $8 mid day snack:  There was enough meat and cheese in this to make meals for the next 2 days! Browsing the RX7 forums hurts my head, so I would rather ask here - I am wanting to replace my injectors because they are just drat old and I don't want on failing on me randomly. What would be appropriate sizing for the primary and secondary injectors for what I am going towards? A lot of what I have been able to find references when boring out the stock injectors was a thing, or engines having much higher expectations and fuel requirements than mine. DefaultPeanut fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Apr 4, 2017 |
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Apr 4, 2017 08:31
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Not sure of your exact power goals but my interpretation is that you are expecting something reasonably conservative. You could probably use a combination of injector dynamics ID1000 secondaries and ID1000 primaries or maybe a smaller ID725 primary if you want a little more resolution for cruising and idle. Given that ID725/850/1000 are all the same price though and that ID1000s have good low pulse width control, I'd probably lean towards 4x1000s for the headroom. I was thinking about 725 primaries on my car but my tuner insisted the idle and cruise will still be good with ID1000s so I went with those those. This is also on a power FC. That said, I'm not an expert, just sharing my experience and research with my own car. Edit: Looks like injector dynamics has a newer ID1050X which appears to be the next revision of their ID1000s. This would probably be more ideal. DoritoPower fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Apr 4, 2017 |
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Apr 4, 2017 20:26
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Apr 13, 2017 04:04
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Why does it have an automatic thermoswitch on the thermostat cover? Also, I'm bad at responding to PM's, sorry!
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Apr 13, 2017 06:25
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One upon a time this FD was an automatic. The swap looked pretty clean, the only tipoff to the naked eye were the trans cooler barbs on the rad, and later, the automagic control unit stuffed up in the kick panel. No worries, I have a parts list for you as well now!
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Apr 13, 2017 07:14
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 Common sight for FD owners? Silly me, thinking most of the coolant had drained out before pulling the engine. Besides fishing the harness through it was a pretty simple engine to pull, no huge drama besides what seemed to be a stuck ring to separate the clutch. I just pulled the pressure plate bolts and out it came. The clutch in there is completely toast - down to the rivets on the pressure plate side, but the flywheel looks okay save for some rust. How does one hold the e-shaft to remove and torque the flywheel? In the PO's quest to convert to non-sequential, he mangled one of the holes in the exhaust manifold and I wouldn't have known if not for pulling the engine and getting the turbos off. I have done some reading, but not been able to find a solid answer on what is allowable for cracks on a hot side housing. One looks like its just touching where the gasket seals. I pulled the manifold so it will be easier to chuck up and fix the threads, if I go that way. Looking into the housings, they seem pretty decent as far as the eye can see. Every apex seal moves in its groove and I can't see any flaking at the bottom of the housings. I'm going to borrow a bore scope and look in closer this weekend.    Talking with the owner at the shop that is going to be tuning this has said it might be better to run with the stock injectors and rails while keeping the engine and turbos mostly stock as I have planned Having the injectors cleaned and replacing the fuel pump, soft lines and FPD. The thought behind this, is that I'll only be making around ~330 hp but will still have the benefits of a stock fuel system.
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May 26, 2017 07:59
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DefaultPeanut posted:How does one hold the e-shaft to remove and torque the flywheel? There's a fixture that engages the flywheel teeth, or the simple approach is a long bar that bolts to the pressure plate holes in the flywheel and then rests on the floor. https://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1992/Flywheels.html
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May 29, 2017 07:31
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