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Terrible Robot posted:Looks more like a Puma to me niiice
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Sep 21, 2017 18:02
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:20 |
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So many posts, I thought I'd missed a lot of updates in this thread. Nope, OP just did an awesome thing. N'th-ing the "absolutely perfect" hood thoughts.
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Sep 21, 2017 21:05
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EVERYWHERE 
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Post what the view looks like when sitting in car please.
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Sep 21, 2017 21:11
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Terrible Robot posted:Looks more like a Puma to me Thank you for reminding me how far Rooster Teeth has fallen.
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Sep 22, 2017 03:22
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Cage posted:Post what the view looks like when sitting in car please. Not emptyquoting.
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Sep 22, 2017 16:27
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Cage posted:Post what the view looks like when sitting in car please. Preferably in video format.
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Sep 22, 2017 16:55
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Cage posted:Post what the view looks like when sitting in car please. Banned for homegrown, reason: giant throbbing erection in video
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Sep 22, 2017 17:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Banned for homegrown, reason: giant throbbing erection in video Reported for backseat modding. 
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Sep 22, 2017 22:31
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Is OP still alive or did he die shiny and chrome on the fury road, blasted by the autistic rage of a thousand s2k fans?
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Nov 4, 2017 05:32
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kastein posted:Is OP still alive or did he die shiny and chrome on the fury road, blasted by the autistic rage of a thousand s2k fans? Died when it spooled, the victim of adding torque to a Honda.
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Nov 4, 2017 17:28
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I am still alive due to extreme self control. Engine is going strong, but she is coming apart over the winter for a 1-5/8" 0.083" wall 4130 chromoly chassis. It is required to be entirely tig welded which adds to labor a bit. Unfortunately its gonna suck having door bars and kidney bars in the way on a street car, but I am sick of having a car that can drive to tracks and break out of safety by seconds on a non-effort pass. So goals for this winter are:
Looking hard for shops to do the chassis. Even though I can tig I cant justify doing a cage I havent done before where I might have to cut off bars and redo if it doesn't pass certification. If a bar is a inch too low you might even have to redo the cage since grinding off a bar in a heat affected area leaves a area with no bar hardened and that turns into a potential fail point. Wish I had more friends familiar with the rulebook because I wish I could keep the car entirely built by me and some japanese guys 17 years ago. Plus saving $4000 I don't have would be nice. edit: It will forever be a street car, but now going to Walmart in it is gonna be harder if someone parks too close tehk fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Nov 5, 2017 |
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Nov 5, 2017 01:15
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So until you get the scratch saved up, it's a street car, right? 
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Nov 5, 2017 01:26
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If you're comfortable with the fab but not the rule book find out who does tech inspection near you or in your region. There's a good chance you can get someone from the NHRA (I assume) side to come look at it while it's tack welded together. Ymmv my experience comes from the NASA/SCCA side.
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Nov 5, 2017 01:59
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honda whisperer posted:If you're comfortable with the fab but not the rule book find out who does tech inspection near you or in your region. There's a good chance you can get someone from the NHRA (I assume) side to come look at it while it's tack welded together. Yeah probably not gonna happen on the NHRA side. Outside of making friends, which I am trying to do, my experience has been there are so many small drag shops across the country that they try heavily to push you towards them. Getting a chassis cert guy to look at the car before I weld it solid would be great though if I can somehow figure it out. Unfortunately unlike the SCCA/NASA side the ratio of inspectors/certifiers to participants is massive. I once went to a certification day at the track and we were 80 cars deep waiting to get certified.
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Nov 5, 2017 02:37
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Tehk, I'm sorry I haven't stopped by, I've been incredibly busy with TRACKDAYS and working a 2nd job to pay for them. I have my last event next weekend and then I'm FREE! I've made a bunch of friends at the track and lots are local and do build custom cages. Would you like me to pass along some names of folks who would be willing to look at your setup while it's tacked together? Also I wanna stop by anyway just bc you're 10 minutes away and I enjoy seeing things people hate online. Not sure how the NHRA/drag shop guys are but the roadrace shop owners are incredibly friendly. Edit: You just touched on the NASA/SCCA side of things. Ugh. Back to square one. Still happy to ask around if you like. Blaise fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 6, 2017 14:37
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Blaise posted:Tehk, I'm sorry I haven't stopped by, I've been incredibly busy with TRACKDAYS and working a 2nd job to pay for them. I have my last event next weekend and then I'm FREE! Sweet you can laugh at me as I try to make a IRS car have a solid axle! Yeah ask around for sure dude! Right now people are saying January wait time but that makes Decemeber a dead time for me since I wont be able to complete the four link/ladderbar rear end in time and I cant sell my IRS rear end until the car no longer has to be moved from shop to shop. People have been asking for photos from the drivers seat to see how the large hood ornament gets in the way. Well here it is.  I ran out of gas about 10 minutes further into that video. 5mpg at idle. Luckily expecting it I carried a dump tank to make it home.
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Nov 11, 2017 02:10
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It really doesn't obstruct as much as you'd think. Reminds me of having a WRX with a hoodscoop: you filter it out after a week. Why is your idle mileage so bad? Huge injectors, or just haven't done much on the low speed tune yet? (Or, I guess, incredibly long stop-and-go) Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Nov 11, 2017 |
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Nov 11, 2017 02:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It really doesn't obstruct as much as you'd think. Reminds me of having a WRX with a hoodscoop: you filter it out after a week. e98 fuel, 4.03 rear gear, slipper clutch, 35 minutes in traffic, 200lb/hr injectors, and my wonderful power tuning. I am sure I can go tons leaner in idle, but the car reads 14.7 on gas scale(even with e85 I think in gas stoich). It starts great and prevents clutch/brake in high vacuum slowdown bogs which can be better tuned with enrichment tables but become a lot more complex.
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Nov 11, 2017 03:02
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So I ordered my Moser ford 9" fabricated rear end, 15x12 champion billet beadlocks, moser four link kit, and wilwood rear disc. With that comes lots of cutting. Didnt have a welding blanket on hand until it arrived in the mail a hour ago, so I only got a small bit done. Cut out my old rollbar last week and this is where I started First to avoid fires, I removed all the fancy carpet I kept for no loving reason.  My next move was to cut the gas tank portion of the unibody out. Giving me a nice place to mount the upper four link shocks.  Finally I removed all the wiring towards the rear of the car and began cutting around the lower portion of the tubs. Red is what I have yet to decide where to cut.  Now I can either do mini-tubs or fullsize tubs. Minitubs from this point are about a half hours work away, and full size tubs not so much. Here are examples. Most S2000s with solid rears opt for mini tubs. These are essentially just width wise extensions to the existing wheel well.    A few of my friends cut all the way to the edge for fullsize tubs. These allow a potential 29"+ tire but Ive yet to see it done. They also look better.    There are advantages to the second method but it is a bit more work, though I feel like it is the way to go. I will be sleeping on it. tehk fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Nov 25, 2017 |
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Nov 25, 2017 00:19
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That's a shitload of tire shoved in there.
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Nov 25, 2017 00:46
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Yeah that is a 28x10.5W. The W stands for "I'm a big loving cheater". Essentially they take a 13 inch wide tire and put a 10.5 inch cross width tread on it, so when you launch you get way way more contact area than a 10.5 non-W.
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Nov 25, 2017 00:56
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Every time I think this thread cannot get better, the power tools come out again. You should post the tub pics on Facebook, and ask for suspension setup pointers, saying that you still want it to handle.
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Nov 25, 2017 01:03
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I will take all the black interior bits and carpeting off your hands that you don't want
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Nov 25, 2017 01:49
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Nodoze posted:I will take all the black interior bits and carpeting off your hands that you don't want come to philly and have em
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Nov 25, 2017 02:01
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tehk posted:come to philly and have em What do you have 
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Nov 26, 2017 00:13
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Nodoze posted:What do you have Everything. Between here, my house, and my parents barn loft. Ok so I cut the car apart today. Left the shock mounts on for future transport to the chassis shop.      
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Nov 26, 2017 00:19
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 Getting closer. 28x10.5 fits almost well. More cutting still
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Nov 26, 2017 20:08
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 This just keeps getting sillier.
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Nov 27, 2017 00:47
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So good.
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Nov 27, 2017 05:04
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I was going to ask if it will still be able to turn after this but it’s an S2000 so of course it will be able to turn. Can’t wait for videos of it released back into the wild.
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Nov 27, 2017 05:14
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Nov 27, 2017 12:25
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Larrymer posted:
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Nov 27, 2017 16:41
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Well, that's one way to fix the S2000's rear suspension geometry. Awesome.
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Nov 27, 2017 16:49
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mekilljoydammit posted:Well, that's one way to fix the S2000's rear suspension geometry. Awesome. It works fine for me 
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Nov 27, 2017 17:23
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Ultimate Mango posted:I was going to ask if it will still be able to turn after this but it’s an S2000 so of course it will be able to turn. Can’t wait for videos of it released back into the wild. Not well haha. fabricated narrow 9" ford housing, wilwood brakes, and four link kit showed up. 
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Nov 28, 2017 03:05
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Just out of curiousity, what made you decide to go with a Ford 9" instead of a Dana 60?
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Dec 1, 2017 23:21
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boxen posted:Just out of curiousity, what made you decide to go with a Ford 9" instead of a Dana 60? 9" is vastly more common in the drag racing aftermarket, isn't it?
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Dec 1, 2017 23:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:9" is vastly more common in the drag racing aftermarket, isn't it? Yeah, probably. I know I've seen Dana 60's under higher power and/or heavier cars though, was just curious.
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Dec 2, 2017 00:42
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Because of the 9"s pinion offset, with the proper case and bearings and whatnot, I've seen a lot of talk about it being about as strong as the Dana too. There's not really any live axle with the 9"s aftermarket.
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Dec 2, 2017 01:09
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:20 |
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Yeah the Ford 9 is a very well designed axle. Removable third member, which is amazing when doing gears. Removable pinion bearing housing, very convenient doing gears in. The pinion bearing preload and pinion depth are decoupled completely from each other so you can set preload and then forget all about it instead of it affecting your depth readings. Carrier bearing side adjusters make ring gear backlash setting a breeze, especially when combined with the pinion depth being set by shims under the removable housing. No "carrier break". The same housing and carrier support gears all the way from 2.xx to 6.xx ratios. Large hypoid offset means you lose a little power to heating the gear oil but also means it's incredibly strong for the ring gear diameter. Like the Chevy 14 bolt, it has 3 pinion bearings, effectively putting the pinion head in double shear instead of it being cantilevered off the shaft and two tapered bearings like most other axles. It's far lighter than the 60 as well. Dana Spicer rearends like the 60 require adjusting 4 different sets of shims all trapped under pressed on/in bearings that all affect each other's impact on the gear tooth contact pattern. Meanwhile the 9 inch, 3 of those dimensions are controlled by either shims under a bolted assembly (way easier to change them pressed bearings) or adjuster collars, and the other is handled by a crushed spacer tube on factory units but can be set by shims if you do desire. I wouldn't be surprised if someone told me they could do a quality 9 inch gear setup in an hour, while it took me like 8 hours to do my first d30.
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Dec 2, 2017 01:44
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