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-Inu- posted:Sharpie over the white if you want them all black. No, I'm not joking; people do it all the time. My A* SMX+ have annoying strips of white that make them look cheesier, and I've been thinking of taking a sharpie to them. My fear was it'd somehow look worse, but it sounds like i should just go for it.
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Apr 19, 2017 05:32
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quote:https://www.revzilla.com/product/sidi-discovery-rain-boots These look a bit heavier than what I'm looking for and probably wouldn't fit my calves :/ I have super thin lady ankles as it is so fit with mens boots is already going to be a problem. Does that kind of protection make a tremendous amount of difference for city crashes (like with impact resistance)or are these designed for a more physical/outdoorsy type of riding? I'd like a bit more than ankle and heel protection but is there a mid point? Thanks for the pants advice, I think I'll go for the dedicated riding option!
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Apr 19, 2017 05:36
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hatbadger posted:These look a bit heavier than what I'm looking for and probably wouldn't fit my calves :/ I have super thin lady ankles as it is so fit with mens boots is already going to be a problem. Does that kind of protection make a tremendous amount of difference for city crashes (like with impact resistance)or are these designed for a more physical/outdoorsy type of riding? I'd like a bit more than ankle and heel protection but is there a mid point? Here is the part where you make a choice about protection vs style. I think it's worth noting that I've made this choice and, while I joke about MX boots being the only real boot, for me that choice is both (damnit, weren't you listening about the MX boot and its perfection?). I mean, protection. If you look at serious riding boots, they're all basically the same, whether you're talking about boots for racing GP or boots for hare scrambles. They all lock your foot in place and then have a little hinge that limits torsion and bending both forward and back and that's attached to a pretty burly upper that firmly holds your shin and calf in place. I think what happens with a less good boot, is that you don't have that limited range of motion. For example, you start to go down and your toe catches on the ground before your foot is off the peg and that gives you a lovely spiral fracture in your shin bone (connected to the foot bone, foot bone doesn't move because most boots protect just the foot ok which is still important, but cheaper boots are generally bad about protecting against twisting between foot and leg. If I were differentiating between street and dirt it would only be to say that dirt is softer and with fewer drivers but more branches. Look at some of the nice street boots and they look like robocop's boots. Anyway, all of this is how you get ATGATT folks and I think given the risks that does make sense. But you have to make that choice for yourself. You should just be aware of what you're giving up when you make it. Ideally, any boot you get will have Ce2 certification but that's how you end up looking like spaceman spiff so you have to decide if the risk of degloving or spiral fractures or whatever is worth looking a certain way. And I don't mean to disparage the importance of looking good at all, just (again) to make the point that you should be aware of what you're giving up in exchange. In closing, God bless America. Amen. 
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Apr 19, 2017 12:54
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Question about riding pants: what's the best solution when it gets hot as gently caress for staying relatively cool? Is it still long underwear underneath riding pants? I'm guessing you want some sort of garment under the riding pants to wick away the sweat. I guess just some really thin long underwear?
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Apr 19, 2017 18:16
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In mid summer I just use merino underpants and open all the vents on my pants. + a mesh honeycomb cover on the seat. if you have pants with no venting? Buy some summer pants or buy proper all season pants (see klim badlands etc).
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Apr 19, 2017 20:38
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any reason why I should avoid this? https://www.cyclegear.com/gear/bilt-power-modular-helmet seemed like a good budget early helmet and is ece/dot certified
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Apr 20, 2017 00:51
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Don't buy a helmet without a 5-year warranty.
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Apr 20, 2017 01:04
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any particular reason? the only 5 yr warranties I've seen are for manufacturing defects (shoei), etc... e: ended up getting a Bell Qualifier DLX fuck. marry. t-rex fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Apr 20, 2017 |
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Apr 20, 2017 02:02
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You had me atbuilds character posted:... the risk of degloving or spiral fractures ... I think I might go with one of these https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/forma-terra-boots https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/forma-adventure-boots
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Apr 20, 2017 09:29
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So I have an odd situation. I currently don't have a car (I ride my bicycle anyplace I need to go) but due to a convoluted set of circumstances I can get my hands on a motorcycle for basically free. The problem is that I've never ridden one in my life and the closest MSF classes are over an hour away by (non-existent) car so I'd have to go the permit -> practice -> license at the local BMV route instead. The motorcycle is a Suzuki Boulevard C50, which seems like a pretty powerful and kind of intimidating bike, and I was wondering if there are any self-taught goons who had any advice for me. I know it's kind of a vague question but I do appreciate any thoughts on this.
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Apr 20, 2017 13:02
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betterinsodapop posted:OK to use that Lexol stuff you mentioned earlier in the thread for this? hatbadger posted:These look a bit heavier than what I'm looking for and probably wouldn't fit my calves :/ I have super thin lady ankles as it is so fit with mens boots is already going to be a problem. Does that kind of protection make a tremendous amount of difference for city crashes (like with impact resistance)or are these designed for a more physical/outdoorsy type of riding? I'd like a bit more than ankle and heel protection but is there a mid point? edit: this is the best I can find atm. i'd do a huge effortpost but i'm a little busy today. quote:I haven't put my hands on those boots, but it seems like they have the same "issue" as most other boots. As I understand it, to completely brace the ankle you have to run your external bracing from the bottom of the boot, up the shin or calf, and then back down to the other side to make one solid piece. Either that or use an internal bootie (or carbon fiber bracing a-la Sidi's Mag 1). the best boot tl;dr i can give, i think, is that entry-level stuff ("shoes") are mostly going to give crush protection (if the bike falls on you), non-slip sole, and stay secure on your foot. mid-level stuff adds shin protection, heel protection, and a certain level of lateral protection (some look more protective than they actually are). high-level stuff lets you do poo poo like fly upside down 5 feet into the air at 170mph on the back stretch of road atlanta and only break your pinky toe (not me, but this did happen to a friend). mx boots are going to be a billion times more stiff and bulky than any street boot and are impossible to walk in when you're off the bike. -Inu- fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Apr 20, 2017 |
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Apr 20, 2017 15:28
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Garrand posted:So I have an odd situation. It'll add to the cost, but could you "uber" or "lyft" for the two days the course happens? Do you have a Harley dealer close by? Most Harley dealers run a riding class also that their instructors are certified by the MSF. You'll have to sit through a bunch of sales pitches but if it works better, so be it. If you decide to go the self taught route there are a boatload of MSF class videos online https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=results If you do go the self taught route, go slow and practice a lot. I would not recommend a C50 to practice on especially if you're doing it completely on your own. The drat thing weighs 540 pounds and the second time you lay it over, you'll be sick of trying to pick it up. If you can borow something lighter for a bit, that would be the way to go.
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Apr 20, 2017 15:48
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-Inu- posted:Same stuff. For what it's worth that post was originally an explanation directed at me since I own those boots, they're real good and also on closeout prices at Revzilla atm if they're in your size - https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/tcx-s-speed-wp-boots. The bit in red is actually plastic and won't fold at the ankle either inwards or outwards, they're waterproof (spent 2 hours in shithouse coastal rain, feet bone dry) and after replacing the insole they're comfy as gently caress. I've spent all day at Philip Island MotoGP wearing them, obviously not as comfortable as trainers or whatever, but more comfortable than I was expecting from moto gear.
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Apr 20, 2017 18:11
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dumb dumb question: you guys keep saying "mx boots". Does this mean like... racing boots, or motocross, what are you saying? What's the difference between that and say, these cortechs? https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/cortech-vice-wp-riding-shoes
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Apr 20, 2017 23:24
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They mean motocross boots. Riding shoes are far less protective than an mx boot or a road racing boot. They may or may not have malleolus protection (the knobby protrusions on your ankle), they don't protect your shins, they typically have a softer footbed with a lot of flex (which means a much higher potential for broken bones in your feet), and they don't have any provisions to control side-to-side flexion at the ankle. tl;dr: They're better than just wearing sneakers or army boots, but they're a world away from the protection you get with a race boot.
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Apr 20, 2017 23:32
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spouse posted:dumb dumb question: you guys keep saying "mx boots". Does this mean like... racing boots, or motocross, what are you saying? What's the difference between that and say, these cortechs? https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/cortech-vice-wp-riding-shoes First link when I google MX boots: https://www.revzilla.com/motocross-boots Basically stiffer boots with more protection, popular with off-road riders. Not great for sports bikes due to lower flexibility/sensitivity. The boots your linked provide next to none protection from what I can see. I wouldn't wear those.
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Apr 20, 2017 23:33
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pokie posted:First link when I google MX boots: https://www.revzilla.com/motocross-boots They were pretty well reviewed and liked by a number of sources (reviews on revzilla, Fort9, reddit), so I snagged them for commuting on weekends (casual dress). I usually don't exceed 60mph, you still think they're insufficient? They certainly feel very stiff compared to zip up fashion boots, though definitely less so than, say, snowboarding boots (the closest equivalent to race boots I can think of). Do you have any recommendations for a decent, not bank breaking race boot for big feet? (I wear a size 14US and run a little wide, but not bad. Like Vans fit but Adidas fashion shoes don't).
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Apr 20, 2017 23:59
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As with all riding gear, - something is better than nothing - something motorcycle-specific is better than something not - a fancier motorcycle-specific thing is (usually) better than a cheaper one The riding shoes you posted fall in the second category. You can do better but you could also do worse. At a minimum I'd say you want something that laces up around your ankle, covering the sticky-outy bones on the sides and making it impossible to pull them off without unlacing. Something over-the-ankle with hard plastic armor is better, and something over-the-ankle with hard plastic armor and anti-torsion features is better still. A simple test is to grab the boot and try to flex it and bend it over. The stiffer and more resistant it is, the better. For instance, my Dainese boots lock my ankles side-to-side, letting me do a Smooth Criminal anti-gravity lean but sideways. For a good sport/race boot you can't go wrong with basically whatever AlpineStars or Dainese makes. Daineses are pretty narrow though so maybe stick with A*. By the way: 60mph is plenty fast enough to gently caress yourself up real good in a crash. Don't get cocky.
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Apr 21, 2017 00:21
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I'm not  I hope you don't think that. I more meant that when I get to the point where I wanna do highway stuff, after I get comfy, I'm gonna invest in really solid boots and pants (I have Kevlar jeans with ce1 kneepads now) Thanks for the other info.
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Apr 21, 2017 02:28
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Skreemer posted:It'll add to the cost, but could you "uber" or "lyft" for the two days the course happens? Unfortunately the courses are out of the question. There is a dealer relatively nearby but it doesn't look like they do anything like that. Your youtube link is broken but I found the online courses, thank you for mentioning that. And yeah, I plan on taking it very slowly and carefully. I'm excited to learn but not that dumb. I'm a pretty big guy and my job involves a lot of heavy lifting so I'm not terribly worried, although hopefully I'm not laying the bike down too often in the first place. We'll see. So on that note I went ahead and got my permit earlier today.. There was a question on the test about where your feet should be when stopped at a stop light. Unless I misread and am misremembering the question, the answer was that your feet should stay on the pegs but I don't know how you would do that without really good balance?
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Apr 21, 2017 10:34
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Garrand posted:Unfortunately the courses are out of the question. There is a dealer relatively nearby but it doesn't look like they do anything like that. Your youtube link is broken but I found the online courses, thank you for mentioning that. And yeah, I plan on taking it very slowly and carefully. I'm excited to learn but not that dumb. I'm a pretty big guy and my job involves a lot of heavy lifting so I'm not terribly worried, although hopefully I'm not laying the bike down too often in the first place. We'll see. You should probably make time/funds for a course, it helps immensely to have someone teach you the basics in a controlled situation. Lifting a sleeping bike is harder than you think, especially big heavy cruisers like a C50 and the first time you do it's likely you'll miss the balance point and it'll go down on the other side. For future reference at lights the ideal position is bike running in first gear, clutch in, left boot on ground, right boot on peg holding the rear brake to hold the bike in place(and let the dickhead drivers know you are stopped/stopping). This allows you the least fartarsing around to take off from the lights should some other vehicle appear in your rear view and has conveniently forgotten to stop before the back of your bike.
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Apr 21, 2017 10:59
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[quote="Fanelien" post=""471586013"] For future reference at lights the ideal position is bike running in first gear, clutch in, left boot on ground, right boot on peg holding the rear brake to hold the bike in place(and let the dickhead drivers know you are stopped/stopping). This allows you the least fartarsing around to take off from the lights should some other vehicle appear in your rear view and has conveniently forgotten to stop before the back of your bike. [/quote] Yeah, that's how I understood it from my reading, which is why I was confused that I got that question wrong. I guess I must have misunderstood what it was asking.
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Apr 21, 2017 12:06
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We where told (though this is the UK, so we drive on the left) to put your left down so that if your foot hits one of the many oil puddles that litter our roads, and slips, you don't fall into traffic.
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Apr 21, 2017 19:02
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Keket posted:We where told (though this is the UK, so we drive on the left) to put your left down so that if your foot hits one of the many oil puddles that litter our roads, and slips, you don't fall into traffic. That's a decent reason, but having your right foot on the brake is probably better for hill start and stuff. Also helps settle the bike a lot when filtering.
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Apr 22, 2017 06:41
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So I've done a bit of research based off some of the advice over the last few days, but I still can't figure it out. If I want a step down from mx boots am I looking at adventure or racing boots? I'd all but decided on the Sidi Adventure before I questioned the protection levels of racing boots. edited to add these are for road use so off road features aren't important, just max protection. my formal jorts fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 09:11
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Thanks for the thread! Finally convinced me to get off the SA lurk fence. I'm moving back to the states from the UK in a few months and have been riding a Yamaha YBR 125 since last June. I passed the road test here on the 125 in September, have been riding pretty much daily, taking the GF as a pillion, and taken a couple side lessons on a Gladius. I have many years of NYC driving under the belt and I'm planning on doing the BRC in New York for the test waiver when I get back, and looking into a second bike. I'm pretty happy with my current seating position and want a reliable all-rounder that's good for some moderate weekend touring for sub-$3000. I like doing my own maintenance, but I haven't fallen in love with dealing with chains, so I've been looking at BMW R1100R's. It looks like a great bike, but it is heavy as gently caress compared to what I've been dealing with. Am I crazy to think I can handle that? I've read conflicting things about handling on heavier bikes - some saying balance gets easier because inertia etc. Thoughts? Should mention that I do not currently have a beard, but can probably rock a Rudess wizard point if that would help.
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Apr 25, 2017 13:27
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Garrand posted:I know it's kind of a vague question but I do appreciate any thoughts on this. A C50 is a tad heavy but I've seen cruisers that size recommended as being O.K. for a first bike, it's too heavy to be a really great first bike but the throttle response is reasonable enough, and the course can help get you past the very first part of 'I literally don't know what I'm doing and I've dropped the bike in a parking lot'. I used to own a M50 (same bike) and come to think of it I never actually dropped it. Heaviest bike I owned though, in fact owning it convinced me I wanted lighter bikes in the future. But OTOH you can slap a full windshield and some bags on it and take it on any freeway in the the U.S.A. so it's not bad as your only form of motorized transportation. Good luck! Where do you live? If you ride a bike everywhere I'm assuming it's a in a city; I bet there's goons around and some people have bikes they don't mind letting learners ride. Fake Edit: Fuel and injected and shaft driven too: so if you get another bike later please remember that chain lube is a thing.
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Apr 25, 2017 14:09
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a cute sea otter posted:Thanks for the thread! Finally convinced me to get off the SA lurk fence. I'm moving back to the states from the UK in a few months and have been riding a Yamaha YBR 125 since last June. I passed the road test here on the 125 in September, have been riding pretty much daily, taking the GF as a pillion, and taken a couple side lessons on a Gladius. I have many years of NYC driving under the belt and I'm planning on doing the BRC in New York for the test waiver when I get back, and looking into a second bike. Why not learn to love chains again and get something like a GS500? e: even if you're doing your own maintenance on a BMW, all the parts are still way more expensive. And BMW engineers make ridiculous design decisions. It's a pain.
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Apr 25, 2017 17:47
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builds character posted:Why not learn to love chains again and get something like a GS500? Hmmm... I haven't seen that one come up for sale too much. If I wanted to go that route, I'd probably pick up an SV650 since the ergos are pretty much the same, there are scads of them around, and it's more-or-less the same as the gladius (I think?). I may very well do so eventually, since that is what the GF has her heart set on! Thanks for the tip! Is that something you've had to deal with? I've read about the insane amount of stuff that needs to be done to get to the clutch assy, and the various spline issues. Anything else? I think one of the techs in our building has an F-series something or other, I may ask if he knows anyone with a model that's close to the R. e: also looked at the Nighthawk 750, there seems to be quite a few around. Anybody have a go on one of those? a cute sea otter fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 19:35
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Buying an R1100R to avoid messing with chains is like wearing ski boots to avoid the hassle of shoelaces. An SV650, a R1100R, and a Nighthawk 750 are three rather different bikes. What exactly are you looking for in a bike? The SV650 is really the only one of those that says "all arounder." An R1100R is far from that. A 750 Nighthawk is kind of boring, but probably the most reliable and easiest to adjust to, it's a pretty basic UJM. edit: You've pretty much answered your own question already. If you like the Gladius, get one of those or an SV. The user base for SVs is huge, and with that comes all the parts, maintenance knowledge, tips and tricks, and aftermarket development you could ever want. It's one of only three bikes (are the KLR650 and Ninja 250 thread still around?) that have a dedicated thread on this forum, due entirely to its popularity and ubiquity. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 19:56
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Buying an R1100R to avoid messing with chains is like wearing ski boots to avoid the hassle of shoelaces. I didn't particularly like the Gladius. I thought it was fine but I had to crouch over too much (6'1, 34 inseam). Bar risers might do it, but it felt more racey that I would like. I'm not exactly young. Good cornering is fine and all, but I'm not trying to get a knee down. I'm looking for a reliable commuter with good luggage and pillion features that can hit freeway speeds without struggling (with luggage and pillion). I'd like to be able to take it out to a park or something on weekends. So, comfortable for a few hours at a stretch, but I don't want to have to deal with a full-on tourer (or cruiser) every day. I'm not that concerned with keeping maintenance costs down, but would like to keep it simple. I'll eventually get a car as well. I like the idea of a GS or other ADV bike eventually and taking on some simple trails, but most that fit those criteria are more than I want to spend right now, and that seat height seems a little intimidating without a few more miles under my belt. In your experience, what were the problems you found with the R1100R, what did you think it was specifically suited to? I've seen a handful of boxers on the roads here in the UK and they seem to be exactly that - middle age guys going off to work or pottering around the lake district with the missus for the weekend 
a cute sea otter fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 21:36
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builds character posted:... I thought splitting was illegal in NY, do the cops just not care? I'm trying to get as much practise in here in the UK while I can.
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Apr 25, 2017 21:47
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What about a Versys or a Wee-Strom? People around here like those. Or you can look at an FJ-09. And then there's the ever-popular SXV 550.
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Apr 25, 2017 21:57
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a cute sea otter posted:I thought splitting was illegal in NY, do the cops just not care? I'm trying to get as much practise in here in the UK while I can. FJ-09 seems like a good option.
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Apr 25, 2017 22:04
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a cute sea otter posted:Thanks for the tip! Is that something you've had to deal with? I've read about the insane amount of stuff that needs to be done to get to the clutch assy, and the various spline issues. Anything else? I think one of the techs in our building has an F-series something or other, I may ask if he knows anyone with a model that's close to the R. Yes, but not with an R1100. Here is an example from the bike I had (a G650X) - in order to change the water pump seals, a wear item, you had to remove the left side case. To do that, you could just unbolt all the little bolts except one. That one required removing the swingarm to get at. So your process was to remove the header + exhaust, remove the tire, remove the swingarm, curse at the stupid tiny swiss cheese bolts they used on the right side of the swingarm, and then finally remove that last bolt. It should have been something that took, say, twenty minutes and instead it took approximately twenty hours. I loved that bike, but BMW engineers are unkind. 2k and you can just remove the front fairing. https://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/6099849295.html vs an SV650 for 2k which has double the miles and is five years older. https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/mcy/6102264447.html SV650 may well be the better bike but the GS500 is a good, cheap option. e: if you want to go offroad too, why not something like a supermoto (or a versys) so you can figure out if you like dirt? a cute sea otter posted:I thought splitting was illegal in NY, do the cops just not care? I'm trying to get as much practise in here in the UK while I can. I'm sure cops would say they cared if you asked them but my experience with cops in NYC is that they don't care at all unless it's a motorcycle checkpoint and then you had better hope you have all your ducks in a row or you're getting a ticket.
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Apr 25, 2017 22:05
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I know we're doing gearchat now, but I have a couple of basic questions that have been on my mind. I took the basic MSF a few years ago, but I feel like I'll be retaking it pretty soon just because I'm not as confident on my bike as I want to be. I've taken my old XS400 out on a couple of delicate around-the-block rides, dropped it a couple of times: first time, had a brain problem and forgot to put the kickstand down as I got off; second time, I took a stupid-wide right turn , kissed the curb, did slow-mo belly slide onto a lawn (no harm, no foul, I was on the ground laughing my rear end off) and had a very sweet gentleman on a Harley help me pick it up while encouraging me not to give up (thanks Harley Guy, I won't!) I shifted on my own to second gear and it felt cool as hell, tiny as that is, I got that kid-on-a-bicycle-I'm-doing-it-on-my-own! feeling. The mishaps I've had have been more goofy than dangerous so far, and I'd like them to stay that way. Anyway, since I janked up that turn, I'm wondering what the best procedure is for turning from a stop. Like, say you're at the base of the T of a T-intersection--what's the usual protocol for turning there? I took a right turn really wide because I think I was either too close to the stop sign itself, or maybe I didn't lean in far enough to turn. I'm always nervous of throttle+turn maneuvers, since I know what brake+turn leads to. Also, as basic as it sounds, shifting down to a stop. I have to go from first to third to even get to tolerable residential-area speeds (1st tops out at 12ish mph, 2nd at 22 or so), so what I've been doing is pulling in the clutch, then the brakes, as I arrive at the stop--once I'm no longer in motion I shift down. Is this SOP for areas with lots of stop-go areas (ie, suburbs)? Or should I be straight braking and then shift all the way down, or shift down -> cruise a little, shift down -> cruise a little, shift-down -> stop? I'm going to admit that a lot of my anxiety comes from not having too much experience operating manual transmissions; I've driven automatic cars my whole life/been the transmission on a bicycle. I understand how they operate on a conceptual level, but on a practical level I still get nervous about how much throttle to give it when I shift from N to 1, etc.
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Apr 25, 2017 22:15
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Maybe I'm misunderstanding this but are you turning the handlebars while stopped? You want to get them ready before you go or by the time you get done with letting the clutch out from a stop whoops you're going straight on what should be a turn.
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Apr 25, 2017 22:22
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Jack B Nimble posted:Maybe I'm misunderstanding this but are you turning the handlebars while stopped? You want to get them ready before you go or by the time you get done with letting the clutch out from a stop whoops you're going straight on what should be a turn. Nah, I keep my handlebars straight when I'm stopped. When I start to go, that's when I get the turn started, which is why I think I was too close to the stop sign/end of the street when I crashed (as in, I rode forward to get some speed, but too far before the bike actually turned, hence the wide turn). edited for clarity. AveMachina fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 22:26
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builds character posted:... I loved that bike, but BMW engineers are unkind. Thanks for the heads up. I certainly plan on a deep dive into the maintenance schedule on these things before deciding. If I could find a well-cared for versys or weestrom with some luggage for around the same, it would be hard to say no. I've just been looking around the NY CL for now, they seem to come in mostly above 3k. If I find a job elsewhere so things are cheaper it may push me more in that direction. builds character posted:I'm sure cops would say they cared if you asked them but my experience with cops in NYC is that they don't care at all unless it's a motorcycle checkpoint and then you had better hope you have all your ducks in a row or you're getting a ticket. Just had to do some reading on that. I love fighting spurious tickets! What will those spunky rapscallions in blue think up next?
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Apr 25, 2017 23:52
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It's probably best for you to watch some instructional videos. I am still somewhat new, so take what follows with a grain of salt. There is no practical difference between taking a turn from a stop than taking one in a curve for me. Get going straight, turn hard slightly later than feels natural. If you start with your bars already turned you will tend to go narrow. It may help to not let the clutch out fully if the bike is going too fast, but that doesn't sound like an issue for your bike. There are two ways to come to a stop. Brake, come to a stop, shift rapidly through the gears to 1st. This is what I did when just learning. But it's preferable to shift down as you are approaching a stop. Having the engine in lower gear helps with braking. This way you are in 1st already when you stop and can ride off right away if needed.
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Apr 25, 2017 23:55
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