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This thread is excellent. So I'm in the process of getting going with this whole thing, and I plan on buying my bike in June, due to saving money and not wanting to sidetrack my other financial goals. I've bought my helmet, a Shoei RF1200 (which is the most exciting $500 mixed buyers remorse I've ever had on my head). Now I'm looking at the rest of the kit before I take my MSF. I figure I can get away with just buying the boots and gloves for now, but I'll be starting my riding in the summer... so, questions: 1. Is there a decently protective mesh or very breathable textile jacket recommended for tall people (6'4", 235lbs) that doesn't murder my budget? I figure I'll be buying leather as it gets cold, since I'm in NC and it snows like once a year for a day and a half and I'll just ride any day it's not freezing. I'm gonna put all the d3o/foam/whatever I can into it, so slots for that would be a plus. 2. Any recommendations for sport/touring boots for size 14 feet? I'm going full on spaceman, but i'm not fit enough for the fancy leather suits just yet. 3. I'm looking at the SV650 and the FZ-07 for the first bike. I'm buying new, I know I'll drop it, but it's my money and I've driven the same car for the last 11 years, I don't think i'll be upgrading any time soon, and those two bikes don't seem *too* fast. I know the SV is popular among larger new riders, but I haven't heard much about the FZ, though by the numbers it looks very similar. Thoughts?
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Feb 22, 2017 17:11
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Thanks for all your advice. That jacket looks awesome! I have a cyclegear near me, i'm gonna see if they have it in stock and try on a bunch of stuff. 
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Feb 22, 2017 18:41
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Keket posted:Get yourself some kind of pants too, anything with knee pads as even a low speed slide will rip through most fabrics like butter. Definitely! I just know I gotta go try those on in person since I fit pants weird. builds character posted:You should also look into used gear on advrider.com if you're anywhere near average middle aged American size. Then buy what you want when youve been riding for a while and know what that is. I've got a reasonably muscular build for size/weight, but pretty square around the midsection, so a lot of super-euro cut stuff does not work at all. I'll take a look at that.
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Feb 22, 2017 18:58
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Apartment people: What do you use for security on the bike? I've reached the conclusion that with my finances, I can either move into a nice place with a garage and live there forever, never saving money, or I can save a downpayment for a house within a year if I stay at my current place (with no garage)... I'll have comprehensive coverage, but I'd rather avoid it getting stolen in the first place. I'm assuming a decent alarmed disc lock, locking my steering, and one of those big fuckoff kryptonite chains would be pretty sufficient to deter most thieves who aren't throwing it in a van, and putting it under a lovely cover any time i'm leaving it alone for the day or overnight. Bikes i'm down between are an SV650, Ninja 650, or Ninja 500r at this point.
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Mar 20, 2017 12:45
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-Inu- posted:Get a 14-16mm hardened chain. If you have a telephone pole or something else that can't be moved, lock it there. Anything like a sign post, handrail, or similar takes 10 seconds to cut through or remove. If you don't have that, the right way to do it would be to deface part of your complex and install a ground anchor. That's probably not a realistic option though, since the bolts expand under the masonry and the heads either snap off, are countersunk, or are plugged with a ball bearing or similar. In other words, they're a huge pain to remove. Thanks for your advice I don't think I can anchor anything other than, yeah, a lightpole or the like, but I figure a decent disk lock and a big hardened chain will be enough to deter most thieves, and if it gets stolen, I'm covered. quote:Especially with a Ninja 650 or 500, which has little to no parts market. That's kind of a relief. I don't know what bike thieves look for, I know it's no supersport, so I didn't expect to have to protect it from flipper chop shop type thieves, but my primary focus was keeping people from trying to steal it for themselves, or joyride or sit on it (punk neighbor latchkey apartment kids/teens). I'm just peepants excited to buy my first bike and while I'm sad I can't afford a place with a garage just yet, it's a better choice in the long run.
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Mar 20, 2017 15:59
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builds character posted:Just make sure you get a full cover and always cover it. That + a chain should cover you for everything other than determined thieves. And, of course, as has been said, full coverage insurance because really there's just nothing you can do vs. plasma cutter/angle grinder + 3 dudes with a van. another dumb noob question then, do i need to wait for it to cool down before covering, and if so, how long?
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Mar 20, 2017 18:44
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Don't get Bilt or Sedici anything. You'll be fine with what you have for the MSF course, but get some higher quality gear from somewhere other than Cycle Gear before you start riding much. It'll be cheaper in the long run, if for no other reason than the seams will be less likely to blow out on good Dainese, Alpinestars, Revit, Fieldsheer, etc stuff. All of which you can find at a budget price if you're patient. I tried on sedici gauntlet gloves (ultimo I think?) and didn't feel a significant difference between those and the A* gloves in the store, so I bought the sedici's for $100 less. But I tried on a bilt helmet, and a sedici helmet, and loving lolllllllllllllllll I left the store with the RF-1200. spouse fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Apr 1, 2017 |
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Apr 1, 2017 14:32
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get one that's way too big because of your ego and watch it as it slips off your head right before you crash.
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Apr 1, 2017 19:27
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dumb dumb question: you guys keep saying "mx boots". Does this mean like... racing boots, or motocross, what are you saying? What's the difference between that and say, these cortechs? https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/cortech-vice-wp-riding-shoes
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Apr 20, 2017 23:24
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pokie posted:First link when I google MX boots: https://www.revzilla.com/motocross-boots They were pretty well reviewed and liked by a number of sources (reviews on revzilla, Fort9, reddit), so I snagged them for commuting on weekends (casual dress). I usually don't exceed 60mph, you still think they're insufficient? They certainly feel very stiff compared to zip up fashion boots, though definitely less so than, say, snowboarding boots (the closest equivalent to race boots I can think of). Do you have any recommendations for a decent, not bank breaking race boot for big feet? (I wear a size 14US and run a little wide, but not bad. Like Vans fit but Adidas fashion shoes don't).
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Apr 20, 2017 23:59
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I'm not I hope you don't think that. I more meant that when I get to the point where I wanna do highway stuff, after I get comfy, I'm gonna invest in really solid boots and pants (I have Kevlar jeans with ce1 kneepads now) Thanks for the other info.
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Apr 21, 2017 02:28
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Alright! I bought a ninja 500 yesterday, instead of the newbikes and the ducati I went to see. Absolutely lovely. They were kind enough to deliver it to my house, and I spent 6 hours yesterday getting comfortable on the bike on the street. Started off stalling at stopsigns in 25mph neighborhoods in front of attractive women doing yardwork, finished comfortably cruising at 60mph down a highway. Absolutely amazing. I have no idea how I would've done any of this without the MSF too, so hurray for that. So, my question: 500 twin, what rpm should I be shooting for just for cruising around? I'm finding 4500 seems natural, not buzzy but still has enough pull in that gear to go if I need to, but I'm coming from 4-banger econocars where it's pretty normal to sit at or under 2 grand most of the time.
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Apr 28, 2017 12:36
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Slide Hammer posted:With motorcycles, you'll always be turning at higher RPM, especially if the engine is extra small. My GN125 cruises at 7-8000 RPM (Redline is 10000). The bigger the engine, the more safe it is to just leave it in a higher gear, since bigger engines tend to have much better roll-on power. oh no, i'm good with the RPMs, I just didn't know if that was optimal in terms of engine wear, fuel efficiency, etc. I can definitely get out of my own way faster than my car even in 5th or 6th, which is neat.
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Apr 28, 2017 15:18
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builds character posted:Ride below the rev limiter. that's no fun.
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Apr 28, 2017 17:22
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I went on the freeway yesterday for the first time when it was lightly trafficked and open. That was the most intense thing I've done in years... but it was also awesome. It was the first time I've ever thought "I am a blob of meat inside the tanned hide of another animal, and I will become a more dispersed blob of meat if I gently caress this up". Bikes are neat. I already ordered a slip-on. This is gonna be a good way to burn money.
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Apr 29, 2017 16:26
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So, my first bike (ninja 500r) came to me with Michelin Pilot Activ tires. These are bias ply tires, not radials, and 95% of the reviews for them are on goldwings and older bikes, not a starter sportbike from 2007. So, dumb dumb question: They have plenty of tread, and seem well reviewed, but I'm not sure where these tires fall in terms of what I should expect in terms of mileage/performance.
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May 2, 2017 06:07
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So if I'm brand new to this, taking it easy and won't be bombing corners like crazy, this is a solid choice for now? From what I can see from maintenance records, they've got less than 200 miles on them and were put on around september of 2015. Don't look squared off at all from what I can see. edit: Now they have 450 miles on them, thanks to me
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May 2, 2017 06:18
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Jack B Nimble posted:Don't go by when they were put on, they can sit in a shelf for years before that. The manufacturing date is on the tire. This guy seems to describe it: I looked it up. Aww poo poo, it was manufactured end of 2009, which puts them at 7.5 years old. I checked with Michelin, they said "inspect after 5 years, definitely replace after 10". So I'm not terrified to ride it, but I went ahead and ordered some Pilot Street tires for it, since they're also well reviewed, but a little softer than the activs as I've read.
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May 3, 2017 12:59
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heyyyyy ^ that's what you said to me. I bought that big fuckoff kryptonite chain and a disc lock for my ex500, and I have a cover for it, but to be honest there's a brand new FZ-09 right next to it with nothing but a thin bicycle cable (think walmart Bell accessories) tying it up, and a CBR-300F with absolutely nothing but I assume the fork lock, so I'm guessing I'm going to be ignored completely. Newb question for content: I rode through the rain on my way back from the beach and got soaked to the bones today. Best way to dry leathers without ruining them? I'm just air drying now under a fan, and I figure I'll pick up some leather conditioner tomorrow.
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May 22, 2017 06:40
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No heat, got it. luckily the jacket is fine (it's mesh, left the leather at home), just boots and gloves are soaked through. Pants are kevlar jeans, so no worry there 
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May 22, 2017 16:35
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oh my god that's amazing. I don't know that I'll snag one of those just now, but it's tremendous that such a thing exists... and the hand addon is so creepy! :O
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May 22, 2017 17:25
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So, a big thanks to everyone in this and all the threads here. I just officially hit one month of having my own bike, 1st month of riding, 1700~ miles in, and only one drop (lost the front wheel pulling into a gravel driveway too fast), and one already lost license plate (motorcycles vibrate a lot more than I thought they would and threadlocker is your friend). Corners that were terrifying on my first few days are now taken with ease, the bike feels like it's "mine" now and this being my first manual vehicle, I now shift without even thinking about it. I also know for any sort of hard/twisty riding I massively underspent on initial gear (except my jacket), but it all works perfectly for commuting. I can feel myself climbing mount stupid on the dunning-kruger graph fast, but I'm trying to temper it knowing that I'm still a dumbdumb and overestimating my skill will get me in trouble fast. Either way, this thread is great, you guys are great, and I appreciate all the advice. Now to tempt myself daily browsing cycletrader, and try as best I can not to trade up to a poor lesson in risk management.
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May 28, 2017 00:36
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Fishvilla posted:I love you. I know  Slavvy posted:Keep doing what you're doing! '07 Ninja 500r. Love it so far, but I'd like more legroom on the next one since I'm 6'4" and would like to do more trips. The "what bike should I get" thread has me staring at VFR's Z3n posted:The most dangerous point is in 1-2 years, cause you've got enough skill to ride the bike fast but not enough to not do things that suddenly and dramatically exceed the limits of traction. Sounds like you might hit that point before 1-2 years, but you should still be cautious of it. Try and find a flat track or offroad school to play with if you want to see how the bike feels sliding around. I have a buddy who's done local dirt bike racing about 30 minutes outside the city for years and does a school with his kids. I'll see if he has any leads that'd be really cool.
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May 28, 2017 12:46
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I've been watching a lot of videos of people on tail of the dragon because it's about 4 hours from my house and I plan to spend a week riding that area in august. I have no idea how or why they're going that fast when right next to them is a few hundred feet of brambly death, but then, I get excited when I almost scrape my pegs doing roundabouts at like 30mph at night out in rural NC. The only downside of this whole thing has been the fact that my econobox car is now the most boring and unresponsive thing on earth and I'm considering selling it for an NA miata or 1st gen MR2. Edit: This whole post was basically to agree with you, I don't know if that was clear
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May 29, 2017 04:33
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I'll check out the safety wiring, just to see The license plate was because I literally hand threaded the screw and wingnut and said "yeah, it'll be fine until I get home to threadlock it", and it came off somewhere on a 70mph freeway. I looped back but couldn't find it. re: deals gap: I'm not just riding that road, but I'll definitely be doing it at least once. I'll try and make it for a weekday, as I'm told it's an absolute nightmare on the weekend. GriszledMelkaba posted:you can't wheelie a miata or mr2. keep the boring econobox. and most motorcycles don't have pop-up headlights  a cute sea otter posted:Careful, I don't know about NC but they design roundabouts here so that they catch the maximal amount of road debris. I treat them like the death traps they are on approach and only power out when I have a clear line. I didn't know this. There's just one really wide one near my parents house out in the middle of nowhere that's never got people in it, and just joins three roads adjacent to farms. Seems clean, but I'll look out for the other ones around me
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May 29, 2017 23:25
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builds character posted:You should really go and take a racing class of some variety. I think you would enjoy it. I definitely plan on doing that and then track days once I get a bit more experience, but for now, I'm trying to save to buy a house, so I can't really put money into that sort of thing juuuust yet. Definitely on the list though.
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May 30, 2017 02:31
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I did my first day of twisties! Ran up and down the blue ridge parkway along with a few other roads here in the hills of NC Absolutely fantastic, and my only problem is I cannot wait to do it again but it's rainy and gross and I have to work all week. I paid a grand total of $16 in gasoline the whole day and about $25 in food in exchange for more excitement than I've had in years. Also my legs and butt hurt a ton after, the ex500's seat is not terribly accomodating for 8 hours of riding. Looking ever more vigorously into upgrading to something a bit more sport-touring oriented this winter when bikes get cheap. I've got searches bookmarked for VFRs, but would an FZ1 be too much after just a year of riding?
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Jun 22, 2017 09:59
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tjones posted:Possibly. I would not recommend it unless you did a metric poo poo ton of miles in that year. Also you are robbing yourself of progressively moving up and jumping way forward to the end of the line almost immediately in your riding career. Good point. I guess it is a big jump going from ~50 to ~150hp, and I'd miss the things in between. I've been doing this two months at the end of this week, and I've put 3000 down already. I'm trying to hit 10k by the end of the year. That's a ton for me, I usually put about 10k on my car in a year, and I've still been driving on the rainy days for the most part. Jazzzzz posted:Stock FZ1 seat will leave your rear end burning after an hour or so. Ok, noted I just kinda want something with a bit more oomph and a lot more comfy while retaining sportiness. I think the VFR is probably my guy. The FZ1 just looked like a very attractive package with good looking ergos on cycle-ergo and being a very good looking bike, but the detuned R1 engine is a big step from a 500 twin. Maybe an FZ6... hmmm..spouse fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jun 22, 2017 |
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Jun 22, 2017 17:27
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You're all making great points (especially slavvy, I'm getting ahead of myself ), and I'm taking them to heart. It's just really hard not to go "oh this 500 is awesome on a stick, and people are saying it's dog slow. I wonder how awesome a 600/triple/leaderbike are then... they're so much purdier too, and look at this price on cycletrader!". I certainly don't *need* anything faster. I just figured I want a more comfortable bike for longer distances, why not get one that's also an upgrade in the power department? You might be right, perhaps instead I should order a corbin seat and respring the bike for my weight, and work on it from there instead of getting all antsy about buying something ridiculous. spouse fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jun 23, 2017 |
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Jun 23, 2017 01:09
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Carth Dookie posted:Who is "they"? That says a 650 is slow? Compared to what? To a 1000cc sports bike on a track with slicks ridden by a pro? Sure. On the road, governed by speed limits, lines of sight, road condition, and traffic? Not at all. I don't think a 650 is slow (I have a 500, which I also don't think is slow), and I don't really care what others say, this is easily the fastest vehicle I've ever owned, and it's been like a love affair ever since I got it. I think the bigger thing is that I started my search wanting an SV650, which is a bit faster (20 more hp, 15 more torque, higher top speed, faster 0-60, wider tires, etc), but when I sat on one it just didn't fit me, and the ninja oddly did. So I got this bike because it was cheap to buy, cheap to insure, and I also want to learn how to work on it entirely myself, so a cheap bike I'm not scared to make mistakes on is ideal. I also wisely listened to the frugal side of me and bought the used bike for cash instead of financing a new one. So now it feels like a compromise even though it 100% fits my needs. As for they, I'm primarily speaking about reviews and forums and the like. I couldn't care less what "they" think, and I've gotten nothing but praise for picking a great starter bike from friends with years and years of riding experience, and not one rider in person has said anything negative about my choice, from guys on old metric cruisers to harleys to my buddy who tracks his s1000rr. The comment was more admiring the capabilities of faster machines I don't own yet, it's not a "wave my dick at people" thing. I just tend to quickly get deep into hobbies and want to spend money on them for the sake of being in it. When I built my first PC, I moved quickly from a $100 graphics card, to a $200 graphics card, to briefly 2x$400 graphics cards. The same logic in the back of my head applies with bikes, though it probably shouldn't. But I'm not gonna end up a smear on the pavement when I overdo it when overclocking, so I should probably relax and enjoy my ride, which so far, has been absolutely awesome.
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Jun 23, 2017 01:34
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Thanks for all the advice I'm looking at replacing my shocks and springs now, and I looked up stock springs and they're wayy underweighted for me. Apparently the stock is a 300# spring, I need a 500 or 550 (weigh 240lbs).
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Jun 23, 2017 03:53
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Slavvy posted:
I looked up tires, my options for "real" sport tires appear to be Bridgestone Battleax S20 Evos and... uh... nothing else. I have Pilot Streets on there right now, and like them a lot. I'll look into soft spensive tires too and see if that'll work for me.
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Jun 23, 2017 04:05
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Slavvy posted:Pilot streets are, as far as I can tell, a sporty looking tread pattern/profile from an older generation tyre with the finest chinese rubber on the outside. S20's would be a quantum leap from there but you would only really get the benefit when your skill is up to scratch and your suspension isn't laughably undersprung. How old are the michelins? Also as mentioned before, do all your engine maintenance stuff but also worth having a check of your head bearings and swingarm bearings as they can have a huge effect on how the bike corners. I know it seems overkill for a lovely learner machine but in reality it'll set you up for knowing what to do on basically any bike you buy, plus give you a baseline idea of what a working-condition bike feels like so you can form an accurate impression when buying in the future. The tires are brand new. Put them on when I realized the ones on when I bought it were 7 years old. I'll look at all of it. It may not be some race bike, but there's definitely pleasure in having a perfectly set up machine that I made happen.
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Jun 23, 2017 11:09
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Yowza, thanks for the detailed response Just to be clear, definitely wasn't planning a move to a bigger bike after 2 months and 3000 miles. This was an upgrade I was considering next january. I still think something roomier for long distance would be a good choice because I'd like to feel my legs after 8 hours of riding, but I'll be keeping the 500 regardless, and the FZ1 is definitely off the table. After getting the "lolno don't upgrade" from everyone, I've been looking into all of these suggestions over the past few days. I ordered better brakes, sent emails to local shops for the front fork spring swap, looked into a replacement rear shock for my weight (it's a late model ninja 250 or 300 oddly enough), and once I get an answer back about the front fork, I'll order the parts. I know of the FOG airbox mod, I'm gonna get to it eventually, but am swapping brakes, and cleaning and gapping sparkplugs and doing my clutch and brake lines and brake fluid. When I do the airbox mod, I'll be checking valve clearances, and I know the carbs are clean because they did it when I bought the bike, but I'll work on setting everything up to par when I do that. I've got no interest in moving to anything that would require more expensive fuel. My favorite thing about this bike is that it costs half as much to commute on it as in my car Really though, I have no delusions that I've somehow mastered my 500 and am outgrowing it after 2 months. I was still going to keep the bike and turn it into one for trackdays even if I did upgrade, and that's probably what I'll do when I move on to the next daily, which is probably further away after listening to your guys recommendations and watching videos on the difference suspension and tuning can make.
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Jun 28, 2017 13:48
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Jazzzzz posted:Swapping fork springs in standard forks is very easy, it's something you can handle yourself as long as you have a way to lift the front end of the bike without compressing the forks. This could be a paddock stand that uses a pin slotting into the bottom of the steering head, or throwing some ratchet straps over a rafter in your garage or a 2x4 frame you build and lifting from the triple clamp. Might save you a couple to a few hundred in labor depending on what the shops want to charge. I'll take a look, I just found a friend that said I could use his garage (I park in outside covered parking) so that could work. I'll look into the paddock stand.
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Jun 28, 2017 17:45
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^ Thanks for your post. I've definitely reconsidered that in the past few weeks, and am just putting miles on the Ex500 instead of worrying about upgrading. I bought a seat cover for long rides, and I'm shopping for a proper tailbag rather than a backpack strapped down with netting, so those problems are largely solved for now. I'm doing my 12000 mile service myself next week, and depending on how that goes, I'll either do the fork spring swap and cartridge emulator install myself (to spring it for my weight and hopefully make it less wallowy under hard braking) and then i'll do the rear shock later, or pay a local shop to do both. I bought proper boots (alpinestars SMX6), and I'm searching for proper pants (I have a pair of Joe Rocket mesh pants now, but that's obviously not as protective as I could be), and then i'm 100% outfitted for some good twisty riding. I mean, the ex500 is still faster at legalish speeds than 95%+ of cars on the road, it's super nimble compared to any car I've ever owned, and after having done 4k miles in these first 3 months, commuting through rain and heat and cold and down highways and over mountains, it feels like a part of me. I still have a ton to learn even though I'm getting better by the day. I still over or underrev sometimes, shift at the wrong time, my throttle control isn't perfect through corners, and my low speed maneuvers still need drilling. My body position in particular is basically I don't know what I'm doing, and I feel like I need to go to a racing school to fix this more than I have already by masturbating to twist of the wrist 2 on youtube. I think you're right, it would've been a bad idea to buy a fast sports car 3 months, or even a year after I started driving. Similarly, regardless of my age or maturity, neither will replace saddletime and skill, so I'll stick with the ninja for now I still think VFR's are purdy.
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Jul 17, 2017 18:58
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Razzled posted:I have not ridden one but I don't see the appeal of VFRs, they look very heavy for what they bring to the table It's just the first bike that ever caught my fancy, way back when I was 16 (27 now). That's literally it. I've never ridden one, but 100hp, comfy seat, plenty of support for luggage, and decent ergos all sound good to me, even if it is 100lbs heavier than my bike now.
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Jul 17, 2017 20:17
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I'm starting to see why there are a lot of shitbikes on craigslist right at big maintenance intervals. I'm 8 months and nearly 10k miles into my ex-500, and now it needs a new rear rotor (warped over time, now pulses when braking), definitely needs a brake bleed, probably a new chain (original chain from 10 years ago, I clean it a lot but it's getting to the end of it's stretchability), new sprocket, a valve check and maybe adjustment, air filter, and the freeplay in the clutch lever is still annoying. I bought as a noob, and now that I know what I'm looking at after doing my own maintenance all this time and reading ex-500.com's wiki like a bible, I know it wasn't very well cared for. I still haven't resprung it/swapped the rear shock because I haven't had time... and yet.... Dealer near me has a ton of sales on the bikes I wanted all along, most of them brand new, both the fast ones I shouldn't buy, and the more beginner-y ones I think are purdy. '17 Ninja 650's, FZ07, and to a lesser extent the CBR650F. And I got a promotion 3 months ago, making better money, could easily work this in, AND the newbike financing is 0% forever and ever more or less... Maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan.
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Nov 22, 2017 18:07
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Sagebrush posted:Do all of these in one shot, because you'll save a bunch of time disassembling the rear end: Yeah, that's what I'll do. I'm frugal to a fault, but purdy newbike is tempting regardless. I'd keep the 500 anyway, I love this thing just because it's my first bike, and it's brought me such joy thusfar. Related question: Is this an ok kit or should I be spending more? I see chain and sprocket prices all over the place, I'm assuming the $20 chains are a bad idea, but I also see chains that cost as much as this full kit, and those in between. Same question regarding rotors: What's the advantage of a $120 EBC rotor vs a $50 Volar? The clutch is more frustrating. I've got the actual pull and placement of the friction zone where I want it, it's just that there's so much looseness in the clutch lever itself, even after tightening bolts to limit vertical wiggle. I may just buy some chinesium shorty levers and see if that feels any better than the stock ones (I want to be able to do 2/3 fingers on clutch and brake instead of 4 fingers anyway).
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Nov 22, 2017 18:57
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Jack B Nimble posted:Regardless Spouse, you're doing the right thing with this maintenance, so don't get discouraged. Thanks! I'm not discouraged, just figuring it all out. I've just been riding the piss out of the thing, and all of a sudden, i'm at 15k miles and it's time for the big service.Sagebrush posted:If the lever is wobbling up-and-down, though, that's probably just that the mounting point is worn. Cut a couple of plastic washers out of the bottom of a yogurt tub or similar thin, flat, slippery plastic and add them to the mounting bolt stack. This is the issue, it just feels generally loose vertically. I'll give it a try. spouse fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 23, 2017 03:44
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