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is motorcycling awesome
yes
hell yes
hell loving yes
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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Great thread, Sagebrush, thanks for all the effort.

However, I'm gravely disappointed that the first post is not On Any Sunday in its entirety embedded with no explanation.

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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Sagebrush posted:

old design doesn't mean "reliable", it means "people have figured out how to fix them." big difference there.

Yeah, this. Think Ural.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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I just keep a large beard and look like I'm always angry, so nobody ever approaches me about my bike unless they used to own one themselves.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Yeah, plugs actually make it far easier to hear sirens, horns, your own engine, etc over the wind noise. Never don't wear plugs.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Voltage posted:

I would absolutely not spend $4500 on that - definitely get a Honda Grom (MSX125) or Kawi Z125 Pro if you want a little non-highway city bike, should be perfect for learning too.

But for real just go used for a first bike, Ninja 250, CBF300, etc. Anything small and Japanese will be forgiving and very reliable - I would also make sure you get something with fuel injection. Carburetors are very annoying if you just want to go out and ride unless you live in a perpetually warm climate.

I was gonna say if you like that and want to spend $4500, get a TW200 instead. And don't spend $4500 on it, spend $3000 max and the other $1500 on gear.

But yeah, just get an EX250 or one of the ones that everyone keeps repeating too.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Sagebrush posted:

Your field of view isn't limited at all by the helmet. When I'm looking straight forwards through mine, I can't see the edges of viewport on any side.

This is very much true, and the whole "helmet limits your vision" argument is stupid bullshit perpetuated by stupid bullshit weekend warrior cruiser pirates. With even the most budget of the budget full-face helmets made by a decent manufacturer (e.g., HJC) these days, your visibility is still so much better than in any given car because you don't have A-pillars or the entire back half of the car in your way. Furthermore, a decent set of mirrors will give you drat near 150 degrees of vision behind you, and that's flat mirrors. With mine properly adjusted, I can see the back end of a car on either side of me in the mirrors and the front end of said car in my periphery or direct vision if I glance over. Convex mirrors will give you more like 180 degrees.

Sagebrush posted:

You still need to keep your head on a swivel, though, always looking everywhere, because your blind spots are bigger (smaller mirrors and no central rear view). After I'd been riding on the crowded streets of San Francisco for a while, I started to be somewhat more aggressive about getting away from cars and trying to always maintain open space on every side, because no matter how alert you are, there's always someone somewhere who's gonna do something dumb.
But this, too, always.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Get quotes on the bikes you're looking at first. If you're on a budget, that can be a very real factor in picking your first bike. I can't speak for other insurance providers, but Progressive and Geico will let you do a quote on any vehicle without actually providing a VIN. It's ballpark, but reliable enough.

I helped a guy get a Ninja 500 for his first bike (excellent first bike), but because he was 22 and most insurance companies see that as a sportbike, his insurance was like $1200/yr. Had he gotten say an XT250, it would have been half that.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Butt Reactor posted:

What's your opinions on Bilt / Sedici gear? I'm starting a MSF class tomorrow and looking at boots and possibly a helmet. I have a pair of jungle combat boots somebody loaned me that could work, but would I be better off with something motorcycle specific for beginner footwear?

Don't get Bilt or Sedici anything. You'll be fine with what you have for the MSF course, but get some higher quality gear from somewhere other than Cycle Gear before you start riding much. It'll be cheaper in the long run, if for no other reason than the seams will be less likely to blow out on good Dainese, Alpinestars, Revit, Fieldsheer, etc stuff. All of which you can find at a budget price if you're patient.
Don't bargain shop helmets, either. Find one that fits, and patronize your local brick and mortar bike shop for it. If you find a lower price online, see if they'll match it. Try to find one with SNELL/ECE/Star certification too.

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Mar 31, 2017

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Sagebrush posted:

Fine for the course, but get your own before you get a bike. Old helmets can get damaged and the foam can get brittle with time. Plus it's just kinda grody to wear something that's been all full of someone else's sweat and face grime.

Treat a helmet like you would a condom.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Sagebrush posted:

i'm gonna say that you're either using helmets or condoms wrong, and i don't want to know any more about it

I was thinking about the idea of never buying a used one, never using someone else's, always getting a reputable brand, etc.

But I guess the analogy breaks down at the "use a new one every time" part.

Edit: also don't buy your helmets from a machine in a truck stop bathroom and don't carry them in your wallet

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Apr 1, 2017

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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If you're really getting dirty, wear 2!

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Internal sun visors are cool af and I love mine so loving much.


I've got a Scorpion AT950 and its a really nice lid. It's not SNELL, but it is a modular helmet from a reputable brand, which gives me some confidence in it. The mechanism feels solid, there's no flex when its locked, and zero play in the hinges. When I grab the chin bar, I can wrench my head around and there's no movement at all. The field of view is huge, the mouth vent works too well, and the internal visor is fast and the perfect level of tint for me. I think all of that adds up to just enough more safety that I didn't have too much hesitation about trading the extra protection of a one-piece. Plus, it's a little easier to get on and off and I look like cobra commander.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Capn Jobe posted:

So I picked up a bunch of starter gear the other week, including a pair of Bilt pants. Reconsidered, and returned the pants to CycleGear today. The clerk didn't really know what to recommend; I wanted something textile (not overpants) that could zip into my AlpineStars jacket.

Ended up ordering a pair of these:

https://www.cyclegear.com/gear/alpinestars-ramjet-air-pants

I'm in the SF Bay Area, so we get summer weather about 9 months out of the year, I figure these should work okay until next Winter. Would anyone advise against these?

Also, I got a lead on a bike. A friend of mine is selling his 2006 SV650. Miles seem okay (10k) but I wonder about some of the mods he mentioned:

New handlebar - "to make it more upright"
Some things changed in the front suspension to make it firmer, including thicker fork oil
Swapped out the rear suspension for one from a ZX-14 - says he did this because it's adjustable

I'll be going over there this coming weekend to take a look. The guy's a good 4-5 inches taller than me, and probably 100+ lbs heavier, so I worry that he's got it set up as a huge-guy bike. Obviously I need too sit on/ride the thing first, but does this raise any red flags?

No red flags. Those are all good upgrades to basically any stock bike. You'll want to get the suspension tuned to you a little better, but it's probably still going to be better for you than stock. Most bikes are pretty undersprung from the factory. Upright bars is good for newer riders too, within reason.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Don't buy a helmet without a 5-year warranty.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Buying an R1100R to avoid messing with chains is like wearing ski boots to avoid the hassle of shoelaces.

An SV650, a R1100R, and a Nighthawk 750 are three rather different bikes.

What exactly are you looking for in a bike? The SV650 is really the only one of those that says "all arounder." An R1100R is far from that. A 750 Nighthawk is kind of boring, but probably the most reliable and easiest to adjust to, it's a pretty basic UJM.

edit: You've pretty much answered your own question already. If you like the Gladius, get one of those or an SV. The user base for SVs is huge, and with that comes all the parts, maintenance knowledge, tips and tricks, and aftermarket development you could ever want. It's one of only three bikes (are the KLR650 and Ninja 250 thread still around?) that have a dedicated thread on this forum, due entirely to its popularity and ubiquity.

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 25, 2017

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Wind noise is probably a bigger contributor to motorbike-induced hearing loss and tinnitus. I've got it horribly and have a very quiet bike.

Experiment with different plugs though. Those ones coydog posted are very effective if a little messy.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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theKGEntleman posted:

Okay, so, completed, passed and loving loved the MSF class. I now just need to pass the written portion to get my endorsement. I've considered the ninja 250 and cbr 250 for my starting bikes, but I'm​ really digging the one below. It's around the price I'm looking anyways. If the rebuild is legit does anyone have a concern about this as being a starter bike?

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/6168723779.html

Are you getting into bikes with the intent to work on them as much as you ride?

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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theKGEntleman posted:

That wasn't the idea, I'm not really that mechanically savvy, or intend to be. Just enough for proper checklists and easy maintenance stuff at home.

Like Sagebrush, I got an old bike for my first one. Like you, I wanted to ride more than wrench. After a couple years I sold that fucker and got a bike I didn't have to work on and wasn't afraid to leave town with and was much happier.

Ninja 250, 300, or 500 would be reasonable. Small dual sports like a KLR or KLX 250, XT225 or 250 would be good as well.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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spouse posted:

The tires are brand new. Put them on when I realized the ones on when I bought it were 7 years old.

I'll look at all of it. It may not be some race bike, but there's definitely pleasure in having a perfectly set up machine that I made happen.

This is in response to all of your recent posts, not just this one.


You can actually squeeze a lot more power, efficiency, handling, throttle response, etc than you think out of your bike just by doing some really scrupulous maintenance and small upgrades in the right places. Pull your carbs, give them a thorough working over. Clean them, see what ex500.com recommends for jetting changes, set your float heights, clean your slides, get those fuckers brand new again. Then do your valve clearances, as has been discussed. After that, go back and sync your carbs and set your pilot air screws. That whole exercise alone can be done in a couple patient days and will find you a couple HP that have disappeared over the years.

I believe there's a common airbox mod for EX500s, but doing anything there will necessitate playing with the jetting again.

Following that, as has been discussed, setting up your suspension for your weight and a slightly more aggressive riding style will make it feel faster. Without actually going faster, you'll feel the acceleration more immediately, and the better responsiveness in turns feels faster. For most stock mass-produced, non-supersport bikes, it means drat near doubling the fork spring rate and about the same on the rear shock. There's probably a direct bolt-in rear shock from another model that will solve that problem for $75 or less and 30 minutes of wrenching. Forks will take longer because you should also do seals and oil if you drop in stiffer springs. The classifieds section on ex500.com may turn up some stiffer springs that someone is getting rid of. Likewise for a better rear shock.

There may be a timing advance mod that will wake up your throttle response somewhere. Research it. You usually have to move to higher octane fuel. Probably not worth it (wasn't for me), but for some people it scratches that itch.

The real productive thing is learning about performance riding techniques and practicing them. Practicing getting really clean lines through familiar turns, getting a little faster every time, riding in a higher rpm range, experimenting with body positioning (within reason), and the sorts of things you can pick up from A Twist of the Wrist, Proficient Motorcycling, and Sport Bike Riding Techniques will make you a better rider while revealing just how capable the bike is. The EX500 is not by any means a dog of a bike. At 3000 miles, you haven't experienced much of what it's capable of.

Getting another bike eventually is a cool and fun process, but you stand to hinder your learning process if you mix in learning a new bike too often while you're learning fundamental technique.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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pokie posted:

This is a fun exercise. Let's see what I bought since I started riding in April 2016.

Helmets:
Shoei Neotec $650

Jackets:
Icon Contra $250
Klim Badlands $950
Klim Induction $350
Dainese Yang leather $700
Gyde by Gerbing 12V Heated Jacket Liner $250

Pants:
Icon some kind of armored jeans I crashed in and ripped apart ~$80. Don't buy cheap jeans for riding.
Dainese Rainsun $290
Klim Badlands $670
Dainese Bonnneville Slim jeans $230

Gloves:
Some kind of $20 Bilt dirt gloves I rode on the street... Don't do this either!
Dainese Evo D-Dry $120
Dainese Ellis $90 They look awesome but I am not sure where I would actually ride in them...
Dainese Druid Long D1 $230
Gyde by Gerbing 12V Vanguard Gloves $120 heated gloves... Magic in cold weather.

Boots:
Dainese TRQ-Tour Goretex $330
Dainese Course Out D1 Boots $330

Assorted junk:
Balaclava $10
Two pairs of glove liners $30
Fly Rain Gloves Covers $23
Buff neck thing - $30
REV'IT! Velox WSP Windcollar $55
Gyde temp controller $80
Westone custom-fit earplugs ~$200

All of this adds up to $6088.

In conclusion, I feel like an absurd human being. But at least I have all the poo poo I needed for a long time, and it got me through my first 18k miles in 15 months.

You've spent more on jackets alone than all three motorcycles I've owned combined.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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M42 posted:

I had to spend a ton of my gear because used womens poo poo basically doesn't exist, especially in my size. I lucked out on my race suit because 48 taichi fits me with some alterations, but am SOL on pretty much everything else. Rip in piss

As if being white, male, middle class, and American wasn't enough, there's nothing quite like the privilege of being 5'10", 32x32, and 165 lbs with a perfectly average torso.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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captainOrbital posted:

I'm pretty close to your size (except where it really counts) and I can't find any used race suits that aren't for...well, average midwesterners, I guess. Never mind.

Maybe I should eat more cheese.

I've never looked for a one-piece, but I can get jackets and pants without issue. Fieldsheer stuff fits like it was tailored for me.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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ijzer posted:

how do i get a bike from the current owner to my house? i can't get insurance until i have the bike, right? plus i don't know that i'd trust myself on the street to ride it home. do i have to rent a truck?

Just jumped right off without checking the depth, didn't you?

All you need to insure a bike is a VIN, they don't care if it's in your garage or in a junkyard. Buy insurance before you transport it. Doesn't have to be titled to you, because you need insurance to register it anyway, and that's usually when you swap the title over to you.

Go rent a UHaul trailer, it'll be easier than a truck. Or a UHaul van and ramp if you don't have a hitch on your car. If you've never even rolled a bike around, you'll want a lower deck height than a pickup will give you the first time you load it and especially the first time you unload it.

Or offer the seller a bit extra to deliver it.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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ijzer posted:

i have not bought a bike yet and i finished the msf course today so i have at least some experience rolling a bike around. i've just never owned a vehicle so i am not familiar with the way buying insurance works.

thanks for the advice, though.

Ah. You could ride it home since you presumably know how now, but still insure it regardless of how you get it home. I'd still say trailer it, but that's just me.

And yeah, figure out what insurance will be like before you get a bike. Most starter bikes are reasonable, but some of them might be way more than you expect depending on regional things, your age, and your record. Dual sports are probably dirt cheap everywhere, but something sporty looking with fairings may be drat near what you'd pay to insure a full on sport bike, regardless of engine size and performance.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Sagebrush posted:

Part of what triggered me to get a motorcycle was, after thinking about riding one and lusting after them for years, my friends started getting married and grumbling about all the things their wives wouldn't let them do. Made me think "well, I'd better buy a motorcycle now, then, so that if that ever comes up I can always say that I've just been doing this for years and I'm not going to stop." Easy :v:

It's odd how polarizing motorcycles are. I remember one of the questions on OkCupid asks "would you ever ride on a motorcycle?" and a surprising number of women answer "absolutely not". Not even to try it out?

I'm of the opinion that people who complain about what their wives won't let them do, and how their wives kill all their fun, and otherwise buy into all that "real boss of the house ball and chain" bullshit have never considered having a rational civil discussion when one of their ideas gets nixed. Maybe start by having a life together based on trust. Maybe share some of your hobbies rather than making all of your free time about your man cave. Do your chores first and don't bitch about house and family duties, and then go play when you're done. My wife has never told me I can't do something, I think because I listen to her reasoning and respect it when she tells me she doesn't want me to do something. Sometimes I go along with her because it's better to do without an experience or toy and be agreeable than be all "you can't tell me what to do wife, I'm a man!"

Then again, I was riding before we were together and she actually likes being a passenger sometimes and trusts me. Also motorcycles are super polarizing and some people just don't want to compromise about them. Sounds like whatever7 and his lady compromised nicely and maybe because of that, bieks are not off the table entirely.

This relationship advice brought to you by HenryJLittlefinger, thanks for tuning in.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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a true-to-character response

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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you're like a broken clock of head up the rear end opinions

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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"I mean, were all thinking it, I'm just saying it out loud, right guys?!" *cue applause*

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Out of curiosity, is there any subdued mx/dirt gear out there at all? Seems like the massive splashy logos have been standard since mx became a thing.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Capn Jobe posted:

Can anyone recommend a tire inflator? I tried to fill up my tires at the gas station yesterday, and maneuvering their air hose around was just too much trouble; I'd rather be able to do it at home.

I'm specifically looking for something I plug into a wall outlet. Portable is not necessary, but that being said I'd go for something that ran on line current but also had an internal battery or the ability to take 12v.

I keep this thing in my truck at all times, and use it at home in the driveway on the bikes. Works pretty fast, very handy little gadget.



Picture links to Amazon listing for it. It's one of my favorite car kit staples.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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builds character posted:

I have one of these and like it. It’s quite small and so far so good for just bike tires. Runs off the bike’s battery.

These are cool as gently caress

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Capn Jobe posted:

These are great suggestions for portable units, but I'm looking for something to plug into a wall outlet (I have an outdoor outlet right next to where I keep the bike). The linked pancake compressor or some variant sounds like a good idea, but ideally I'd like something a bit less expensive/bulky.

Anything less than $100 for a 110V air compressor is probably going to put you in Harbor Freight range, and I think air compressors fail the "will it kill me if it fails" part of that decision tree.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Jazzzzz posted:

I have a $99 refurbished pancake compressor (labeled DeWalt, not Porter Cable like the one I linked, but they're all made by Campbell Hausfeld anyway) and it's been working with no issues for the better part of ten years. I think Central Pneumatic makes the stuff Harbor Freight sells.

If it explodes I'll post here immediately, assuming I survive.

Hm. How big of an air tool can you run on it?

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Jazzzzz posted:

Nothing big. I can break 5 lug nuts with a 1/2 inch impact, let it re-fill the tank while I change the wheel, and it will be ready for the next wheel, but that's about it. It's more useful for nailguns and the like. I have another compressor with a 25 gal tank for anything that needs a bigger supply (HVLP spray guns or the like), but neither of them can push enough CFM to run things like a jitterbug sander or an air grinder.

Well poo poo, now I think I need one. What's an HVLP spray gun? Like the kind you repaint your deck with?

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Capn Jobe posted:

I've been doing more freeway riding recently, partially because I've just been using the bike more, but also because I want to get more comfortable with it. One problem I keep having is my throttle hand just goes dead numb after about 20-30 minutes on the freeway. Well, not totally numb, because it also hurts like hell. If I slow down for ~10 seconds to take it off the throttle and wring it a bit, it gets better, but the cycle then repeats after another 20-30 minutes.

At first I thought I just needed to acclimate better to freeway riding, but it doesn't seem to have gotten any better. It seems like it's a combination of the hand position when holding the throttle mostly-open, and the vibration. I have an inkling that different gloves may help; all I have now are a pair of Alpinestars SPX Air Carbon gloves.

Think different gloves would help? How have others dealt with this? Bike is a Kawasaki Vulcan S; it handles freeway speeds just fine but the engine is turning pretty fast when you get up to 70-75 mph.

Lube your throttle cable(s), too. Maybe even clean your return spring. Having a throttle pull that is anything less than as smooth as possible can cause you to grip it pretty tightly.

Retrain your muscle memory. Figure out just how little pressure it takes to hold the throttle at cruising speed and focus on keeping your hand/wrist tension right around there.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Wheeee posted:

I'm strongly considering getting into motorcycling this spring as I finally live in a region that isn't winter half the year and road construction to fix the crumbling roads the other half.

Over the years I've casually looked into motorcycling so I know most of what can be reasonably picked up from reading online, and intend to go through the local major riding training school prior to ever trying to ride on the road, but I'm unsure about bike styles.

I've owned little sporty cars and love both tearing rear end through winding roads (More or less responsibly, I'm not suicidal) and highway cruising, which sort of says babby sportbike like a Ninja 400 or something. But I also loved having a truck as it allowed me to drive over curbs and poo poo and bomb down fire roads, which sort of says dual sport or supermoto.

As a first bike I'd be primarily interested in the thing serving as a useful skills development tool, as while track days likely won't be an option in the near future I'm more interested in the skill and act of riding than in simply owning a bike for the lifestyle; I'm not really a Harley guy.

I'm a six foot tall fatgoon so I know smaller bikes won't be super fast and that larger bikes such as the EX500 and SV650 are common recommendations, but given the first bike's status as a skills development tool am I correct in thinking that even as a larger dude I'd be better off with a 250-400cc bike whose limits can be more easily explored and learned from? And on that note, would a dual sport be better than a small learner sportbike like the Ninja 400 or RC390? My concern with bikes like the WR250X is highway and higher speed travel, in addition to range with theur tiny tanks.

Broadly speaking, what direction should I be looking? I live in Canada, our used market is tiny and grossly expensive compared to the US so while I'll look used there's a decent chance I'll just get something new, especially with ABS.

DR650

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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That is hot as gently caress

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Wheeee posted:

Something I learned when I once picked up an old Buick as a winter car is that old men know what's up, comfort owns.

Thanks for the responses to my earlier question regarding starting bikes, I've done some more reading and YouTube watching and I'm sold on a dual sport as a first bike. Both the DR650 and DRZ400 mentioned here look good but finding cheap used bikes up here in BC is hard. There's basically nothing on the island where I live and not much elsewhere, and most of what's out there is crazy expensive. I found one DR650 for $2000 but it's hundreds of km away.

That brings me back to new bikes, because I'm not going to spend almost as much on a ten year old bike as a brand new one costs. I also don't really like the idea of spending $7000 on a bike engineered last century, but maybe that's just something I need to get over. If I can't find a decent used deal, I was thinking WR250R as it's the most modern bike in the class and apparently has the best chassis/suspension of the Japanese dual sports. Is that a fair assessment, and with a larger rear sprocket would it be able to haul my fat goon rear end around acceptably? I am losing weight so that'll help but for now idk

I wish I had unfettered access to America's used vehicle market

How far from the US are you? Is it worth it to buy over the border? If you're committed to buying in BC, you probably ought to go new. Even an older bike in good shape is going to cost you an oil change, tires, brake pads and fluid, and other odds and ends before too long and when you're starting out near the cost of a new bike, you'll be paying the same within a couple years probably.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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You may have also been overcompensating with your right hand on the bars and stiffarming/gripping it too tightly, and as a result, jerking when you hit whatever it was.

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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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You ride a Rebel, right?

Adjustable levers all over eBay. Lots of them are cheap poo poo, but some are not. Also, there are probably a handful of sportier bikes wth adjustable levers stock. A buddy of mine runs Ninja 650 levers on one of his bikes (not a Ninja 650) for the same reason and likes them. Might have to replace the master cylinder but probably not too hard to do.

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