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is motorcycling awesome
yes
hell yes
hell loving yes
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Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Those uhaul moto trailers are made of pig iron and are Titanic heavy. I would not tow one behind a CRV. That is if you're talking about the trailers that have sides on them. I also have a CRV. I could maybe fit a Grom in the back if I removed the seats but thats about it. I've pulled many bikes behind it in a light 4x8 trailer but the bikes were 500lbs at the most. Maybe try a small box truck from uhaul? You could always fill the rest of the space with drugs or Russian prostitutes and come out way ahead.

As for the CBR300 the major issue with them is they are under a :siren:crankshaft recall.:siren: Personally for the 300cc starter bikes I would choose the Yamaha R3 or Ninja 300. The R3 is available with ABS in 2017 and the Ninja has had it for a couple years now.

As for bike shopping the best way to get an idea of value is to watch Craigslist and get an idea of bike prices. Reasonably-priced bikes sell fast while overpriced ones sit forever.

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Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Fats posted:

No per-mile charges, last time I rented one it was like $24 total. Someone mentioned that it's heavy but I didn't think that at all; the thing has tiny little tires and bounces all over the place unloaded. My Ranger didn't even notice that it was attached.

I want to say it's close to 600lbs unloaded. Not much for a small truck, but a CRV is nothing more than a civic on stilts with AWD. Then again, I am overly cautious when it comes to towing, so YMMV. A harbor freight trailer can't be more than a couple hundred pounds, and is the better option. They're a bit flimsy but can be made stronger by welding the parts together. There are many threads on other forums about how they can be modified and strengthened.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Get something reliable first. You don't want a broken down bike tainting your view of motorcycle ownership. After you've decided whether or not motorcycles are for you, you can buy all the Italian or Russian bikes you want. Or, you buy two, one reliable and one not so much. One to ride, one to wrench is the saying.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

captainOrbital posted:

Seriously. I was railing some turns pretty hard on my third Daytona 675, when I target-fixated pretty good on this yellow Porsche. What a disaster.

Also there was gravel?

What was the ambient temperature relative to your tires?

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

I have not owned or ridden a VanVan, but as a two-time TW200 owner they are fantastic bikes but have one fatal flaw: they will not approach freeway speeds. Country highway speeds are doable (~55mph) but it's just not what they are designed for. If your riding is only around town, or a few miles outside of town to hit some trails, they cannot be beat for fun and reliability.

If you want something that can go farther in that price range, you want a XT225/XT250, KLX250S, WR250R, or CRF250l. These are all dual sports, for street bikes you have more options. Ninja 250/300/400, CBR250/300R/CB300F, Yamaha R3, TU250, etc etc etc.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Elviscat posted:

..at that price point it'll be a fun toy to keep around even if you get real motorcycles in the future, since tiny bikes are fun as gently caress.

Yep this. I've owned a bunch of bigger faster bikes but I kept a tdub around because it was just so much fun to ride. I only sold it this spring to replace it with a WR because I wanted a bit more capability, but I will 100% buy another tdub if the price is right. I have a friend who normally rides a ZX1400, talked him into a Sherpa as a second bike and he loves it. It cannot be understated how riding on the dirt or trails at any speed is a massive boost to your skills and self confidence as a rider.

I forgot about the Super Sherpa, add that to the list. It has a very low seat height and low weight (~260lbs), a disc front and rear, and 6 speed. Tops out a bit over 70.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Most places like Autozone or O'Reilly's will take your old oil. It's an odd process where they walk you into the back of the store through all the inventory so you can dump it yourself into a giant dumpster.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Elector_Nerdlingen posted:

Eh, it probably stopped me from making a bad decision.

School me on the DR650. Given that I'm primarily riding on the highway (and I'm gonna need a bike that does that no matter what), why do I want this this thing that looks like everyone's mate's uncle's old trailbike?

E: No sarcasm here, but everything I see about the bike is "here are the mods I did and now it's a... <adventure bike / trail bike / city commuter >" so I'm clearly missing something.

While it's not a great bike out of the box, it's an excellent base to start from and an excellent bike to own if you can only own one. Want a dual sport, supermoto, commuter, or adventure bike? It can be any or all of those things.

I am biased but also correct in saying all the variants of Honda's gear driven V4's are the best motors ever. They also were the only ones to get oval pistons working reliably in the NR750. It is a work of engineering art, when Honda did things because they could.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

builds character posted:

Here’s my two cents on buying your first bike: it’s so exciting that you almost can’t help yourself. Basically everyone gets excited and ends up spending more or getting the first bike they see, or both. It’s not ideal but that’s just how it is. If you can, try to listen to the advice here and get a bike that you view as disposable in the sense that you plan on getting a new one in a year (or two...). And then just go get the cheapest, mechanically sound good starter bike and go ride.

The number of people who buy a really nice pristine bike as their first bike then immediately drop it at 0mph and never touch it again, not because they're scared of riding but because they're scared of again damaging the nice paint and chrome has to be a number way way north of zero. It's like buying a nice piece of furniture and then not sitting in it because you wouldn't want to ruin it with your butt smells. Buy poo poo you can ride, forget the image.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

I thought the newer SR400 was FI?

Fake edit: it is past 2010.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

I'd say the XT225 or Super Sherpa is the perfect starter dual sport since they're lighter and have a six speed. The height of the DRZ could be too much for some new riders. Any of them can be dumped repeatedly without fear.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Slavvy posted:

Behold, one of the fastest learner bikes your can buy:



You can see the front brake caliper there, the single piston is operated by a cable and has a ratchet to take up pad wear. The other side of the caliper is solid, so instead of both pads moving only the piston pad moves. The entire caliper is on a vertical pivot that parallels the fork leg, so when the piston actuates, the whole caliper rotates slightly to the left. Pads for them come pre-slanted, and they are only better than a drum in terms of feel, pretty sure stopping power is less than even a small drum.

That's bonkers. My 75 CB360 had the single pot single disc hydraulic front and it sucked. Better feel than the drum but did not feel like better stopping power.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Rode out to the country on my WR with a 22 strapped to my back last weekend to shoot at steel targets. Good fun. Totally legal :911:

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

They are but you have to be very careful not to become a gun weirdo and start fetishizing them and making up fake reasons in your head for why you need one always

Yeah this. You don't need to always have a gun on you for the lottery-like chance you'll actually need it. People who every day carry are looking for reasons to use it. I have a concealed carry license, I've never carried once.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Toe Rag posted:


Take the MSF/BRC first


Always my advice for anyone who is unsure about riding. Worst case scenario is you're out the money and you fail the test. Maybe you decide you don't like riding. Maybe you pass and get a permanent M on your license but decide it's not for you anyway. In any case figure this out on their equipment with instructors around. If nothing else there's always a decent chance you'll get to see a fat guy in tattoos dump a DR200 in a parking lot.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Greg12 posted:

there is no normal steering

there is only counter-steering you do consciously and counter-steering you do unconsciously

idk about people who learned systematically. I just rode down the interstate changing positions in my lane, swerving back and forth, nudging the bar consciously.

Under a certain speed there is only "normal" steering the extreme example being pushing a bike around the garage, but yeah when riding it's all counter steering. The easiest way to understand the concept is not to test out the theory on your first corner at 75mph but by riding in a straight line and doing the "weave". You push forward on the left bar you go left and vice versa. More specifically, the counter steer causes the balance of the bike to shift to that direction which makes the bike turn. Sort of an opposite cause and effect of how a car works.

But Not Tonight posted:

super weird and my feelings are kind of hurt that not a single dude has stopped to talk to me about my bike in the (admittedly short) month or so I've been riding

"Is it fast?" It will happen just pretend to be deaf or mute.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

numberoneposter posted:

as much as i love the :krad: full digital red backlight :awesomelon: dashboard on my n650 the fuel gauge is hilarious in that it warns you FUEL! FUEL! FUEL! when you have 4ish liters left. Like cool your jets we can still go like almost another 100 km. been just using the trip computer to get a better idea of range.

It's just excited. FUEL!

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYUHmpBY3jI

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Slavvy posted:

Carb to EFI conversion: six months.

Getting the throttle response just right: the next six years.

It's some German guy and he's been working on it forever. But yeah that last few inches is going to take a loooong time.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

It would be easier to cram the EFI SV650 motor in there.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Survival kit contents check. In them you'll find: one forty-five caliber automatic; two boxes of ammunition; four days' concentrated emergency rations; one drug issue containing antibiotics, morphine, vitamin pills, pep pills, sleeping pills, tranquilizer pills; one miniature combination Russian phrase book and Bible; one hundred dollars in rubles; one hundred dollars in gold; nine packs of chewing gum; one issue of prophylactics; three lipsticks; three pair of nylon stockings.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

quote:

I'm progressing towards my licence in the Swedish system. This included a mandatory full day of "risk education". Half the day was theoretical, we talked a bunch about gear and accident statistics. The other half day was...

:sweden:

quote:

Just got my temps and a busa

:911:

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014


HARD CASH

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

It is still possible to find decent deals on dual sports and dirts but you have to have HARD CASH ready to go. Yesterday a $2k XT250 came up so I sent it out to friends who might be looking with the message "if you're looking don't wait contact this guy and hand him your money" yeah it's gone, sold yesterday about 2 hours after posting.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Rolo posted:

I tried to and was finally convinced by this thread to chill out. If I didn't I never would have bought my favorite thing ever.



Shoot I gotta go ride now I'll see you all later.

You're going to get deltav'd on the freeway on that thing when it can't get out of its own way!

I'm kidding this is the perfect sportbike for 95% of people who ride. I'm tempted to remove a couple shitbikes in my life and replace them with something like this.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

I want to say a valve clearance check used to be part of the routine, but probably not anymore. I think they change fluid, check cable tensions, and bleed brakes and that's about it.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Mouzer posted:

Hello Thread!

Just bought myself a new Rebel 500 as my first bike! I've had it for all of 2 months and have become incredibly emotionally attached.

Does anyone have any tips for garaging over a Canadian winter? I bought a battery tender and plan on moving the battery indoors and changing the Oil before I put it away. Should i be worried about flat spots and the tires?

https://imgur.com/a/dNP0RUI


Sidenote, anyone have any tips for embedding images?

Great choice of first bikes. Assuming your winter is as long as mine (4-5) months you shouldn't have to do anything special to keep an FI bike winterized other than keeping the battery on a charger. Not really on the flat spots, that's more of a long long term storage thing. However, it doesn't hurt to go out there every so often and move it a foot forward, then a foot back the next time, and make some vroom noises.

For embedding from Imgur after you upload the image and the ad plays right click on the image and choose "save image location", when you paste it into SA you should get a imgur link surrounded by IMG /IMG tags, change those to TIMG /TIMG so it displays a thumbnail and not full size. Sometimes when right clicking you get a blob link, if that happens just go back to Imgur and right click again.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Am I crazy or is that front tire mounted backwards

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

I accidentally put E85 in the Hawk once. It didn't like it, but still ran enough to limp home and drain it.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

metallicaeg posted:

Already rambled on in the slack, posting here too:

After the BRC sessions I went to ride again but found my rear was all but flat, and then discovered the nail when it wouldn't hold air. Rather than plug it with my 300lb self, and still aware that the front tire was mounted backwards by the PO, I decided to just get two new tires, and then decided I might as well do them myself.

So after receiving various irons, expensive as poo poo but sweet rear end Pit Bull front and rear stands, a tire stand with a bead breaker, rim/tire lube, right angle valve stems because why not, a balancing stand, and a fresh set of Michelin Road 5s, I got to it.

Started with the rear, and removing the wheel from the bike took all of a few minutes. Breaking the bead was no trouble with that stand as well.

Removing the tire was a pain, because at first I forgot to actually use the lube, and then wasn't lining up the tire in the center of the wheel to make it easier on myself. After finally realizing both of those, it finally was freed.

Popping the new tire on was very easy in comparison, then that left me with trying to inflate it. So the small AC powered portable compressor wasn't doing it as expected, then went to the more powerful DC powered VIAIR unit in the car, but that wasn't enough either. Took the whole drat wheel to the closest gas station but that pump seemed to cycle off and on and I wasn't getting anywhere there, either. So then I got a small, but still proper 3 gallon pancake compressor, hose, and chuck, and that finally did it.

Greased up all the axle stuff and got it back together and went on a short ride for the first time since November 13th.

Still haven't done the front, as the fork socket doesn't arrive until tonight, but from the experience of changing the rear I'm hoping to do the front in half the time now. And actually have it mounted in the correct direction.

When removing and installing the front wheel it is easier (sometimes necessary) to remove the calipers first since this usually comes down to a couple bolts. Make sure you don't pump the brakes when the calipers are not in contact with the rotors or you'll have to figure out a way to push the pistons back out (hint: it involves the right size C clamp). You also might want to think about removing said rotors when doing the tire install because it's not hard to bend them.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

I don't think the V45 suffered from the same issues as the VF/VFR motors of the same era. Some interesting theory here, I don't know how accurate it is but it is interesting:

https://motorcycleproject.com/text/v4_cams_what.html

It's moot since any 80's V4 still running is unlikely to suffer from those issues and not a myriad of other oldbike issues. Ride it until it explodes.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

The old Rebel was more or less one of those little 50cc mini choppers you see at Farm and Fleet.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Slavvy posted:

There goes that theory

Slavvy posted:

heavily inbred colonial


dunno seems accurate

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

T Zero posted:

Since I'm just over one year into riding and it's coming up on tax time, I decided to look at my bike expenses and figured it might be of interest to other folks. Values here are in dollars. Total spend is $7490, excluding fuel (my back of the envelope fuel cost estimate is about $140 (~3000 mi @ 65 mpg and $3/gallon)).

"Hardware" includes the bike itself and things attached to the bike. "Administration" is legal paperwork and insurance.

It's more than I thought I would spend (was initially expecting $6000 for everything), but overall a worthwhile endeavor. Of course, a lot of this is one-time startup costs, so the overall spend per mile will decline over time.

Edit: Bike is a 2013 Honda CBR250R purchased from a dealer with 4100 miles, ~$3000 total out the door. It was clearly dropped on its right side by the PO, so I replaced a few parts and had the fairings repaired.

Edit 2: One thing I'm wondering is whether it's worth restoring the exhaust to stock. It currently has a Delkevic exhaust that is annoyingly loud, but I've gotten used to it. I just saw a good stock can pop up on ebay, but it's $165. The stock can is heavier though (15lbs, vs 5 lbs for the Delkevic).



As someone who never crunches the numbers because of the stark realities it would expose in my hobbies, I find this interesting. I think it also illustrates well to new riders that the biggest expense is not the bike.

Can you break down what's in "service" a little more?

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

T Zero posted:

Sure. Here is the service record. The color coded rows distinguish two separate trips to the mechanic.

Ahh ok there are some crash damage fixes in there that makes sense. $900/yr in just maintenance cost would be abnormally high for a used bike, but it could also be that high for new riders who purchase a brand new bike and have to pay for the initial 800-1000 mile service. Some dealers do it free while others over charge for it.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Millyard is good because he's that classic John Britten type who can make things in his tiny shop that shouldn't be possible.

British bike reviewers can't be trusted they're incapable of giving a fair review of any Triumph.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Noob drivetrain question. I've just adjusted the train and I'm noting the rear sprocket is getting towards shark tooth territory so I'll need to change that soon.

Which brings me to the numbers on it; 37, 428. I'm assuming 37 tooth because that makes sense looking at it. The 428 refers to the width of the chain, correct? It's a 6 bolt fitment. I'm going to swap out the lot because the chain has stretched a fair amount at this point.

So I'm looking for a decent replacement and I understand motorcycle chains have even more options than mountain bikes at this point. What makes a decent chain?

Typically you have 3 types of chain, standard roller, o-ring, and x-ring, from cheapest to most expensive. Standard chains are not as common anymore on street bikes, but if your bike came with one you can run it. You can also replace a standard chain with an o-ring or x-ring. The advantage of the "ring" chains is they have increased life span because they hold lubrication in better, but a chain that isn't maintained is going to poo poo out early regardless of the type and eat the sprockets at the same time. It's just that in general you have to maintain a standard chain more often to keep it in good condition. Standard chains do have the advantage of better power transfer to the rear wheel, not enough for the average rider to tell.

Then you have master link vs clip, this is just the way the chain is installed and removed. With master link you don't necessarily need (but probably should have) a chain tool while the clip ones you do not. Clip vs master link reliablility is a :can: subject.

If you go up or down in sprocket teeth you may need to add or subtract links. Unless ordering direct from the dealership most chains don't come with the correct number of links, but you can remove them with an angle grinder by grinding off the mushroomed part of the link and driving it out. The two go-to chain manufacturers are RK and DID.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Blue On Blue posted:

ya makes sense, i guess its the same as a new driver buying a 30 year old car and has a chance to fall apart every turn

I would say it's even worse than that, most cars even going back 30 years will take years of abuse and neglect and still get their drivers to their destinations partly by the virtue of having four wheels....generally if something goes wrong the car just coasts to a stop. Motorcycles are far less forgiving to both mistakes and neglect by their owners. Cars need to be designed up to the standard of a midwestern winter or Arizona 24/7/365 heat so they need to be able to start in -30F to 125F, they need corrosion protection, they need beefy cooling systems. Bikes just aren't built to that standard.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

katka posted:

What makes Japanese bikes from the 90s unreliable? Is it the quality or just age catching up to them?

The quality was very good it's just age at this point. The charging systems and wiring are weak to begin with and fail. Otherwise it's typical old bike things: cam chain tensioners, starter sprags/clutches, 4 carb racks and everything that can go bad with them. It's expensive maintenance and the older a bike gets the less it's worth, the more it becomes a labor of love.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

The corollary is that the older these bikes get, the more expensive parts get for them.

Yeah think of a graph with the horizontal axis being bike age in years and the vertical axis being level of hosed-ness and a non-linear curve going up to infinity. Classic cars are similar you're going to spend $100k restoring that barn-find Mustang fastback you got for $1000 but at least in the car world you have a pretty good pool of potential buyers who might give you your money back, in the bike world that market is razor-thin. Let's face it: there's just not enough Fabios out there.

Best thing that can be done for long term health of any bike is just to ride it, keep the parts and fluids moving.

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Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Howdges posted:

I realized last week that there are such things as inflatable kayaks, and that my walmart had one with a carrying case for $90. I thought to myself, "bet I can figure out how to carry this on my bike".

This is brilliant.

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