|
They mean motocross boots. Riding shoes are far less protective than an mx boot or a road racing boot. They may or may not have malleolus protection (the knobby protrusions on your ankle), they don't protect your shins, they typically have a softer footbed with a lot of flex (which means a much higher potential for broken bones in your feet), and they don't have any provisions to control side-to-side flexion at the ankle. tl;dr: They're better than just wearing sneakers or army boots, but they're a world away from the protection you get with a race boot.
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2017 23:32
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 5, 2024 17:10 |
|
|
la puttana fell off
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2017 15:29
|
|
|
I have strips on both sides front and rear because I ride like an old man
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2017 19:24
|
|
|
Chances are slim that you'll be able to get either of those bikes out the door at a dealer for $2500, but it can't hurt to try. Do you need to finance, or can you buy cash? Also, how far are you will to go to get a bike? Not a ton turning up on CL in the San Diego area, but there's a lot more up around Orange County. I know that's a hike from where you are.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2017 18:51
|
|
|
King of the Beach posted:Full disclosure: My MSF course was at least half middle-aged blue collar dudes who rolled in on Harleys who said poo poo like "jap crap" and "they ought to teach this class on 'MURICAN bikes", I poo poo you not. The kind of guys who were convinced wearing a helmet would just break your neck if you got into an accident, using the front brake would throw you over the handlebars, etc. They'd all been renewing their learner's permits for at least 3 years because they couldn't pass the practical exam. By the end of the second day of riding they had all obviously learned something, and they all passed the test. The instructors gave the one who'd been riding the longest - he also happened to be the one that bitched the loudest about our Nighthawks not being Harleys - a pretty good ribbing after everyone in the class scored better than him, including the 18-year old Asian lady that'd never been on a bike who got the class's only perfect score.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2017 19:44
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Did you guys not get an efi 250? Negative, it's carbs all the way down in the US and Canada markets.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2017 16:30
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:The headlights on the first one are triggering my fuckwit alarm really badly. Second one looks way nicer. "These headlights suck, guess I'll buy an HID projector retrofit kit..." eh, OK I guess, at least he didn't just swap some bulbs in there "...with some sikkkk angel eyez" yeah, he's a fuckwit
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2017 04:46
|
|
|
Looks like a solid bike. check the usual stuff for wear (chain, brakes, tires, battery), ask when the oil was last changed, what maintenance has been performed. Check the engine to make sure it's cold and then ask him to start it. The only red flag on this ad for me is that is NOT a trickle charger that he is showing there, it's a regular battery charger. When you look at the battery make sure it's not swollen. A Ninja 500 is more than enough bike to keep you entertained for a couple of years, don't buy it looking to upgrade in 6 months. Slavvy posted:Can you really pick up a tidy ex500 for $1500 over there? Seeing poo poo like that makes me want to kill myself. Not usually no, they either want $2500 or the bike is thrashed
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2017 03:33
|
|
|
Stock FZ1 seat will leave your rear end burning after an hour or so. I jumped from a GS500 directly to an FJR after about a year of riding and ~8000 miles, then another FJR, then an FZ1. Don't do that. Stay on the smaller bike longer, especially if you like railing around on curvy roads. The old maxim about it being more fun to ride a slow bike fast than ride a fast bike slow is 100% true.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2017 16:09
|
|
|
spouse posted:... Swapping fork springs in standard forks is very easy, it's something you can handle yourself as long as you have a way to lift the front end of the bike without compressing the forks. This could be a paddock stand that uses a pin slotting into the bottom of the steering head, or throwing some ratchet straps over a rafter in your garage or a 2x4 frame you build and lifting from the triple clamp. Might save you a couple to a few hundred in labor depending on what the shops want to charge.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2017 17:21
|
|
|
dumb. posted:Asking here because it's an absolutely stupid question, but a very real problem for me: Don't wear boxers on the bike
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2017 04:14
|
|
|
builds character posted:2. Make your wife take MSF with you. You will both have more fun if you are riding together than if you are riding and she is passengering. Also, that way when if your bike brakes down you can steal hers to ride. I wish this were 100% reliable, but some folks just want to passenger and gently caress up your ride
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2017 22:18
|
|
|
If you have the room for one, you can usually find refurbished pancake compressors like this one (Amazon link) for $100-ish that will be more versatile than something dedicated to filling tires. Add a tire chuck and off you go.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2018 21:30
|
|
|
builds character posted:I have one of these and like it. It’s quite small and so far so good for just bike tires. Runs off the bike’s battery. FB is pulling up a link of Lyndon Poskitt doing a wheelie in the desert - not sure if your link is screwed up or if it's on FB's end
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2018 02:22
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Anything less than $100 for a 110V air compressor is probably going to put you in Harbor Freight range, and I think air compressors fail the "will it kill me if it fails" part of that decision tree. I have a $99 refurbished pancake compressor (labeled DeWalt, not Porter Cable like the one I linked, but they're all made by Campbell Hausfeld anyway) and it's been working with no issues for the better part of ten years. I think Central Pneumatic makes the stuff Harbor Freight sells. If it explodes I'll post here immediately, assuming I survive.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2018 21:23
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Hm. How big of an air tool can you run on it? Nothing big. I can break 5 lug nuts with a 1/2 inch impact, let it re-fill the tank while I change the wheel, and it will be ready for the next wheel, but that's about it. It's more useful for nailguns and the like. I have another compressor with a 25 gal tank for anything that needs a bigger supply (HVLP spray guns or the like), but neither of them can push enough CFM to run things like a jitterbug sander or an air grinder. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jan 18, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2018 02:42
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Well poo poo, now I think I need one. What's an HVLP spray gun? Like the kind you repaint your deck with? You can spray most any kind of paint with them if it's thinned appropriately. It's just a type of spray gun that doesn't require a ton of pressure to use (most run around 40PSI). If you're planning on re-spraying a tank or body panels or some other project, that's the kind of paint gun you'd use. The pancake compressor can run one for small projects no problem, but if you're spraying a lot the compressor motor will be running constantly. In an enclosed space, it's noisy as gently caress.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2018 17:01
|
|
|
captainOrbital posted:What about bead blasting? Can you blast beads onto rims? Doing a decent job of bead blasting requires a lot of CFM, most sub-$500 compressors can't keep up with it edit: maybe I misunderstood - I was talking about bead blasting as in media blasting. You can seat tire beads with a pancake compressor, it just requires a quick burst of high-ish PSI
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2018 02:14
|
|
|
WR250X (hard to find, not sold new anymore AFAIK) or DRZ400SM (all over the place, but people tend to want a lot of money for used examples) will suit your needs just fine. If you're a big fat person you'll probably want to look into putting appropriate springs into the suspension to handle your weight. You'll be able to ride either of them on the highway but I was never a big fan of long distances on the highway w/ a supermoto. They are super fun around town, great for mild hooligan poo poo, and very forgiving of being dropped. You can still buy the WR250R new - that's the dual sport version of the X - and put supermoto wheels/tires on it later if you want.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2018 18:36
|
|
|
Don't even bother with light smoke visors, just go straight to the dark smoke and carry the clear visor with you if you'll be out past dusk. Alternately, wear sunglasses.
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2018 00:56
|
|
|
Yeah, I struggled like a motherfucker trying to get my first FJR on the center stand until I read somewhere that it's more about pushing down with your leg than it is trying to lift with your arms. Think of it this way: you're not trying to lift the bike up onto the stand, you're trying to push the stand down under the bike. There is a little pull involved but it's likely a LOT less than you think.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2018 04:05
|
|
|
tokenbrownguy posted:Where do you anchor ratchet straps on a bike when you’re putting in a truck to transport long distance? Bottom triple if it's easily accessible (should be on a Nighthawk). If you want to run straps to the rear as well, you can hook them on the passenger footpeg hangers, but like Slavvy said you really want to compress the front fork so it doesn't bounce. Straps on the rear are just extra insurance.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2018 01:05
|
|
|
Tank bags are super useful until you have to fill up, and then they can be a pain in the rear end. The bigger ones can get in the way of being able to see your instrument cluster. I prefer tank bags that mount to a ring on the gas cap. They're easy to get on and off and won't gently caress up the paint on your tank. To me a top box is still more utilitarian, but they are almost uniformly ugly and expensive. Tail bags work pretty well but are obviously harder to get into if you need something while you're on the bike.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2018 03:54
|
|
|
Alpha Phoenix posted:Honestly I only mentioned my helmet to establish that I had a solid DOT helmet before I asked about the crazy Russian ones. I'm genuinely surprised at the pushback on it. A 3/4 helmet is better than a skid lid, but you should ideally be dressing for the best possible protection from a crash and not to look cool. That means a decent ECE or Snell rated full face helmet. A DOT sticker means nothing - any helmet manufacturer can self-certify as complying with DOT standards and then put DOT stickers on their helmets. In the old Hurt motorcycle injury study, something like 1/3 of all impacts taken to the helmet were in the chin bar. I wouldn't risk my face on those odds - I like being able to chew my own food. This is a pretty safety-conscious group of riders, hence the pushback on a 3/4 helmet.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2018 04:46
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:I'm a broke-rear end sumbitch and i'm buying a Shoei and Handroids (among other gear) before I ever set out on the road. Bell makes good helmets. You don't need to drop mad bank to get a helmet that will do a good job in a crash. Extra $$ gets you things like drop down sun visors, plush liners, and cool paint, but it doesn't necessarily mean the helmet will protect better. I wouldn't hesitate to ditch Arai if another manufacturer made a less expensive helmet that fit my mutant melon, provided it fit well and was ECE or Snell certified.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2018 16:59
|
|
|
I picked up a Rukka AirAll jacket + matching pants made from Cordura AFT last year - supposed to have the abrasion resistance of regular Cordura but breathe far better. Can't speak to the abrasion resistance part since I haven't crashed in them, but the breathability thing is 100% true. They're cooler than any mesh gear I've ever had, mostly because the entire outfit breathes, not just the mesh panels.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2018 20:58
|
|
|
builds character posted:You can always try something like this too. https://coolshirt.com/product/white-coolwater-shirt/ You need a reservoir and pump to pair with this. Theoretically you could piece one together from a cooler, aquarium pump, some fittings and wiring, but if you wanted to just buy a ready-to-go package you're looking at a few hundred bucks. Plus you'd have to have somewhere to strap all of that poo poo on your ride. It's not infeasible but it's a specialized solution.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2018 02:30
|
|
|
Don't buy new for your first bike. 1) you're going to eat a loss as soon as you roll it out the door on depreciation 2) it's virtually guaranteed you're going to drop or dump your first bike somehow Beginner class bikes don't depreciate much after that first hit. Buy used, don't feel bad if you drop it, sell it for what you bought it for two years later.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2018 21:43
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:Hi! I passed my MSF today with a pretty high score, I am 300% more confident now and can't wait for Wednesday (takes 48 hours to get it in the computers). Pretty sure they say this at the end of every MSF BRC, but congrats - you're now qualified to ride around a parking lot! The BRC is great and gives you the tools you need to be successful on the road. Ease yourself into it and you'll be fine.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2018 02:34
|
|
|
Alpha Phoenix posted:What is this? I saw it at a Harley store and it was a customer's. I didn't creep at the entrance to ask the owner, but it looks like a tiny Grom-sized CB-F and I love it! https://www.amazon.com/Power-Hornet-Motorcycle-Scooter-Choice/dp/B01D9DOWWQ Nice Honda sticker
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2018 22:47
|
|
|
I Google'd "150cc scooter that looks like a motorcycle" and it was the first hit. The backwards Honda wing (that was only on one of the bikes), the obviously cheap dash, poor tank/panel fit, and gold anodized "looks like Ohlins" shocks all screamed Chinese scooter
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2018 02:47
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Do you have access to 400cc I4 bikes? Only older bikes. Just stuff like the Bandit 400. They're rarer than hen's teeth and are usually beat to crap when you do find one. We don't get anything like the CBF400.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2018 23:42
|
|
|
right arm posted:KTMs rule. my dirtbikes have been every bit as reliable as my honda dirtbikes. I've had my 1290 SAR and SAS for a few months and have a combined total of ~6500 miles on them so idk about reliability, but I didn't have to take it to the dealer like I did with the BMW GSA to clear the stupid service light buy the GS-911 to clear the light, or put a piece of tape over it on the dash. At least with the BMW you can buy something to do it - you can't even do that on a Ducati
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2018 02:31
|
|
|
not caring here posted:The obvious course of action is to buy from a place that will accept a return, and not from a place that won't. And some retailers (RevZilla) won't take a return on a BT unit or any other electronic item once the box has been opened. Someone could drag their sweaty balls all over a helmet liner, box it back up, and return it np, but god forbid someone cuts a piece of shrink wrap
|
|
#
¿
Sep 4, 2018 23:27
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Yeeaah that sounds like bullshit to me, I'm meant to believe they're putting GPS trackers on every bike and monitoring where they go...? Doesn't stand up to the slightest scrutiny. It's vastly more likely that the ADV guy and others just have immobiliser issues (bike immobilisers are about ten years behind cars and just entering the 'massive fiasco' phase of development) and dealers lying/making poo poo up is pretty routine. No GPS involved, it's supposedly an initial ECU flash from the factory that disables the bike (cuts fuel/spark/who knows) after it rolls 100km on the odo. Register the bike's VIN with the mothership = get ECU unlock code, flash it to the bike edit: it's not just the old cranks on ADVRider having this issue https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Unlocking-KTM-Husq,1330213 Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Nov 29, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2018 00:25
|
|
|
mewse posted:It’s like DRM but on motorcycles *starts writing a patent* DRM in vehicles is already a thing. It's a big issue in agriculture - John Deere combines/tractors/etc. have a lot of software-enabled features and you can't fix poo poo when it breaks without having the manufacturer's software (ie unless you're a dealer). Farmers are used to fixing things themselves, not having to call a dealer and wait for a service tech to show up when the combine shits the bed in the middle of a field. There's a small hacker movement based around trading cracked versions of the JD software from Russia/Ukraine so people can fix their own stuff. It's one of the driving forces behind right-to-repair laws being brought up in midwest states in the US. https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/xykkkd/why-american-farmers-are-hacking-their-tractors-with-ukrainian-firmware
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2018 00:34
|
|
|
Yeah, both of those Ducatis are styling partnerships with Diesel, the fashion group. They don't run on diesel.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2018 21:05
|
|
|
Alpha Phoenix posted:I would love to be a fly on the wall when a customer comes in because they filled their bike up with diesel. Drain the tank, fill it with gas, run it and watch it blow smoke for a while. mmmMAYBE you have to replace plugs, and that's a big maybe. Gas in a diesel = ruh roh
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2018 01:14
|
|
|
Harvey Baldman posted:I was reading through this thread and had a question after some of the discussion about ear plugs. I wanted to get myself a helmet with maybe integrated Bluetooth for listening to music or whatever, and I'm wondering if those types of helmets are reasonably insulated around the ears as a result? Or is it the kind of thing where I'm better off simply wearing normal Bluetooth earbuds under my helmet? Most integrated bluetooth systems cost more than a standalone unit, will only fit one particular brand or model of helmet, and don't have the features you get from a standalone unit. Buy a decent helmet that fits your head well, and either add a separate standalone bluetooth comms unit (you can and should wear ear plugs with this setup, you'll still be able to hear audio) or wear cabled or bluetooth earbuds if you can find a set that fits under the helmet w/o causing comfort issues. If you go with the second option, use something that provides decent sound isolation so you don't damage your hearing. If you have to crank the volume to drown out road noise, you need a different set of earbuds, e.g. don't use Airpods. I used to use a set of older Etymotic ER6s under my helmet to listen to music and podcasts for long rides, but switched over to Cardo bluetooth comms units a few years back. Sena makes good systems too, although their latest one has been getting some bad reviews. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Mar 11, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2019 01:03
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 5, 2024 17:10 |
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:What do you guys do for GPS/Phone mounts? I have a RAM X mount on the GS, a $20 Amazon-special Chinese knockoff X mount with a built-in USB charger on the FZ, and a RAM finger mount bolted to a bike-specific GPS mount on the Multistrada. The X mount + rubber band thing work fine but I don't like how the grip portion rotates freely within ~15 degrees even if everything is cranked down. The finger mount is bulky AF. The Perfect Squeeze is designed for holding a phone for off road riding, looks cool, the ADVRider dorks like it, but it's $85 + you still need either their $30 bar clamp add-on or an existing RAM ball + arm setup
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2019 21:31
|
|