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The internal visor on my Shark is awesome when conditions are consistently changing as it allows quick switching between tint and no tint. However on bright days I mostly prefer my mirrored visor as it's really good in sunlight and doesn't dull shade that much, but if it's overcast the shade can be a bit dark.
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Apr 4, 2017 12:45
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Garrand posted:Unfortunately the courses are out of the question. There is a dealer relatively nearby but it doesn't look like they do anything like that. Your youtube link is broken but I found the online courses, thank you for mentioning that. And yeah, I plan on taking it very slowly and carefully. I'm excited to learn but not that dumb. I'm a pretty big guy and my job involves a lot of heavy lifting so I'm not terribly worried, although hopefully I'm not laying the bike down too often in the first place. We'll see. You should probably make time/funds for a course, it helps immensely to have someone teach you the basics in a controlled situation. Lifting a sleeping bike is harder than you think, especially big heavy cruisers like a C50 and the first time you do it's likely you'll miss the balance point and it'll go down on the other side. For future reference at lights the ideal position is bike running in first gear, clutch in, left boot on ground, right boot on peg holding the rear brake to hold the bike in place(and let the dickhead drivers know you are stopped/stopping). This allows you the least fartarsing around to take off from the lights should some other vehicle appear in your rear view and has conveniently forgotten to stop before the back of your bike.
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Apr 21, 2017 10:59
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Slavvy posted:
This. All the time forever. Look where you want to go, it applies to any vehicle at speed. in most cases the vehicle is much more capable than you think it is.
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Apr 26, 2017 11:25
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Sagebrush posted:Also, hit the rev limiter/redline once per ride. It's good for the engine. Also bounce off the rev limiter in top gear. It's good for the soul.
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Apr 29, 2017 08:58
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The Honda 500s are friendly little appliances. If customisation appeals to you the Ninja might be better though. There's just a bit more available for the Ninja as it sells in first world markets better than the 500s, which sell at their best in lower end markets as their "big" bikes.
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May 9, 2017 00:26
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Slavvy posted:Let me tell you about a little something called italy. I can tell you from a 5 minute ride on the back the Tuono pillion seat is Abso-loving-Lutely HORRIBLE, the only consolation was I got to ride it properly on the way to the fuel station.
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May 9, 2017 10:20
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You'll also rarely see the entire front tyre used unless you're on a race bike pushing it to the very limits. The rear however will go to the edge easily. I've got tiny strips on the front and nothing on the rear and being asymmetrical as mentioned isn't uncommon. I use more right than left of the rear because I don't have the stones to hang off the bike as much in right handers.
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May 23, 2017 18:16
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-Inu- posted:This is good advice for anyone: check the bolts on your bike regularly. Like you said, bikes vibrate a LOT and bolts love to come loose. I have a friend whose shift lever fell off on the track, causing him to crash, break his ankle, and destroy his bike. I suggest blue Loctite on the shift lever and any other important things that you don't remove regularly. I know it's mostly considered a trackday thing, but honestly, having your bike safety wired isn't a bad investment. If you have a decent race shop nearby, they can probably do it for around $150. Alternatively, Probolt sells pre-drilled bolts that you just screw in and safety wire yourself. You can drill out bolts yourself, but it's time consuming, frustrating, and you're going to break more drill bits than you can count. Great shots there. The video however would be better with less editing, I'd love to see a ride along from his helmet. And yeah that's a race prepped bike(but it has a licence plate?), even running reverse shift if you watch closely.
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May 30, 2017 09:42
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+1 sport/hypersport tyres are a genuine and major upgrade to any bike. As long as you have at least a 160 width rear you have a choice of pretty much anything.
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Jun 23, 2017 11:38
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Michelin Pilot Power 3s is another option. I run them on my CB500X
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Jun 24, 2017 00:45
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Carth Dookie posted:I run those on my bandit. They're really good. What do you get out of a rear? I manage about 8000km and the sides are worn down to the wear bars
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Jun 24, 2017 04:05
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Carth Dookie posted:Dropped $900 on a new set of Dainese pants and jacket online today. Still $400 cheaper than local retail "sale" prices. Crossing fingers that the items all come in good order. I've never spent that much online in one hit before. Yep, AU/NZ prices on gear are horrendous. Dainese suits start at $1200 on SALE, I haven't been able to find Torque D1 in boots for less than $650 locally. But I could buy a whole extra suit, and boots from fcmoto.de for less than a suit costs me locally. poo poo's hosed, it's just like computer parts in the 90s.
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Jun 28, 2017 10:26
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Carth Dookie posted:I bought through motardinn.com. Never been with them before but a couple of goons have gotten stuff from them before without any major hassles so I thought I'd give them a whirl. At those prices I might just spring for the Axial Pros. Really like the idea of in boots so they don't fill with water in a light shower.
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Jun 28, 2017 11:16
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Modern A2 Licence/LAMS approved 500s are pretty friendly little things. My CB500X I rode it flat out from the driveway and back again, only time it tried to throw me off is when I'd throw it into a corner too hard and the centre stand bottoms out, unloading the rear starting the recipe for a highside. The fuel injection systems on these things allow the manufacturer to give you the torque of a bigger motor but without the top end power to try to kill you.
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Jun 21, 2018 09:41
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Slavvy posted:I live in a country with decent bike licensing and a tiered system with hp/capacity limits where you can get a versys or sv or whatever for your first bike. It's still a crap idea, get a 250. Nah, I started on a Honda CB500X, the top of the LAMS bike segment are still so friendly to ride it doesn't matter. I'd probably say get something you like with less than say 50-60hp which is more than enough to get you into some deep poo poo on a highway but not so little a Daihatsu Charade will be beating you at the lights. Though I did trade my CB in for a 1290 so my decision making process may not work out for others.
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Jul 24, 2018 10:15
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Slavvy posted:IMO the main problem with those bikes is they have enough power that you can just bash the throttle and brakes and make decent progress without knowing anything about lines or how to ride a bike properly aka things that aren't optional on a 125/250. I'd disagree on the brakes, they are woeful on the CB500 range, mushy, limited feedback compared to a good braking system like the ones of the Tuono and SDR. The brakes were one of the things really holding me back on the CB, they just couldn't pull the bike up as fast as I wanted to. The throttle is another thing entirely, yeah the extra power could train you to use it to power out rather than picking a decent line, but I think that top of the LAMS segment is about that limit where you will start being kind to the throttle and eventually working toward that mid corner speed like I did. I personally would recommend a new rider to the 500-650 restricted classes of bikes because they're not newbie death machines like 600s, they're torquey low revving things which have a very linear throttle response. But they have the power to "grow in to" unlike a 250. The electronic restrictions are pretty drat good these days, I pushed my CB pretty loving hard and only had a couple moments of arse puckering over 4 years of ownership, mainly because I was using the throttle as a switch by the end on hypersport tyres.
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Jul 25, 2018 10:50
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If you love the KTM get it, but the 390 has a few known issues with dash water ingress and rear shocks pissing oil. It's a euro bike, it'll have eccentricities. Though the Honda 500s are absolutely truly bulletproof. I did 30 thousand KM most of that bouncing off the rev limiter in every gear and zero issues other than burning oil, a riding mate had one too and is selling it now with 100 thousand km on it and the only non wear part to need replacement in that time was a water pump, though he rode his a bit kinder than I did. Every part is overbuilt by a factor of 50%
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Aug 30, 2018 10:51
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| # ¿ May 6, 2024 03:39 |
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I use a Kreiga US-20 mostly, but also recommend the Ventura racks and bags for trips over a day. I used to run with a backpack but it starts to poo poo the gently caress out of me about 50k in.
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Sep 6, 2018 10:55
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