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On gloves if you look at innovation in protection I'd look at knox. revzilla carry some of their models.
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Mar 17, 2017 23:02
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A bike cover also removes the "drunk idiot that want to touch/sit on/puke on/leave trash on the nice bike" factor.
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Mar 20, 2017 22:53
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In mid summer I just use merino underpants and open all the vents on my pants. + a mesh honeycomb cover on the seat. if you have pants with no venting? Buy some summer pants or buy proper all season pants (see klim badlands etc).
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Apr 19, 2017 20:38
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I find using a chain tool to brake the chain takes longer than just cutting it with an angle grinder. I do use it for riveting master links though.
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Jun 1, 2017 14:27
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One thing I can't figure out with the cafe style is the seat. I mean, look at that ninja cafe racer.  Why is the seat soo narrow? Narrower than the frame so your inner thigh is rubbing on a metal edge with screws? Do they ride spread eagle? Just make a proper modern seat form with fabric edges that dip over the edge a little.
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Oct 6, 2017 10:59
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I just use one of these on all my bikes.  I even brought one along when I rented a bike on tenerife last year. So much more relaxing.
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Feb 22, 2018 10:24
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Norway has strangely lenient rules about training for motorcycle licence actually. The teacher has to have had his licence for more than 5 years, both the teacher and the student has to wear a yellow vest with a big L on. They can ride on seperate bikes, but the teacher has to ride last, and at all time see the student, and have a means of two-way communication with the student. if the student is above 25 years old they only need ID, below that they need car licence or traffical base course. With that in place you can "train" for as long as you want wherever you want in Norway.
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Jun 1, 2018 09:15
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That or use a real small amount of plumbers thread tape, you won't need much.
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Aug 2, 2018 20:14
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If you want something to tuck into a jacket get the shorty pod version. They breathe pretty well, but can be a bit warm when you hit above 80f in the shade. It also depends on your movement speed etc.
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May 7, 2019 20:17
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If you want to have an actual ride whatever the weather and in comfort and safety the entry point is about $600 for the jacket and upper body layers. Cordura only is single spill jackets, reinforced elbows and shoulders are a must. Talisman and other "super fabrics" in key areas are signs of a good jacket. You want goretex pro shell or equivalent bonded to the outer layer, not as a zip in liner. Zip in liners means the outer shell and pockets are soaked with water drastically increasing temperature loss. Even with a proper bonded outer shell the wind chill and water transferred heat loss is significant. On the other hand you want enough ventilation for hot days. This means direct to body vents and even more important proper rear exhaust vents. Nice features here are good zip pulls to use with gloves on, mesh in the openings that are not against the your body (hello wasp) and straps that holds the vents open against wind pressure. Get merino t-shirts and a range of 2nd layers with different thicknesses to further increase comfort for the given temp. A good 2nd layer also works as the sweater you can wear when you get to your destination. Klim and rukka has jackets with these features. Dainese, revit and alpinestars has 1-2 in their range.
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May 25, 2019 22:37
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Yeah and that's kinda my point. If you spend the money you don't need 2 jackets. You can starts near freezing with all vents closed and take off your 2nd layer and open up when the sun is beating down mid day. The more comfortable you are all day the more you can enjoy yourself and focus on your actual riding.
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May 25, 2019 23:42
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Sliding around on gravel, mud, and ice with a small bike is really fun. Same with running that small 250cc engine hard on sealed surfaces, it's pretty drat cool to get perfect shifts and trying to get perfect apexes on a twisty road just stay at normal big bike cruise speed. You don't have oodles of power to just power out, so you gotta ride clean and have a good flow. It's very good training. I'd say the best skill lifts I've had is the 2 winters of ice riding on studded tires with my honda nx250, I finally realised how good a grip you really have on normal gravel.
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Aug 26, 2019 19:28
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For other sport touring offers, I've been running Angel GT 2 tires on my fz6 for 2500 miles atm. They've been good in the wet and cold up here, not noticed any loss of traction. Not too much of a difference from the road 5 tires i had before. Both handle rain and cold just fine, tons of grip. Even on hard pack dirt/gravel they behave. I've run both of them down to 40f temp, no problems.
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Sep 14, 2019 21:50
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1. Play with angle/height of the handle bar first. You can usually rotate the hand controls a little to have the levers and mirrors be the correct angle even with a changed bar position. The lenght of the cables may restrict how much you can do though. And/or adjusting height of the foot pegs. A more relaxed/upright sitting position usually makes any bike more comfortable. And it's not that expensive to dabble with. 2. a lightweight buff/ neck gaiter. There is a million variants of them. if it's varm out you can just soak it with some cold water to get that evaporative cooling. 3. A damp cloth with some warm water and some variant of dish soap or similar. There are bugs everywhere, unless you only ride in mid town. I usually have 2 microfiber cloths at home I use, one for helmet visor and one for removing excess grime and bugs from my riding gear. After a while if it's just the outside that is grimy on my gore-tex suit I just hang it on a clothes hanger, hose off the outside with the shower head and agitate it with a pretty soft shoe brush. If the inside is getting nasty from sweating the whole thing get's washed with proper gore-tex safe laundry soap. The water repellent can be reactivated by running it in a dryer, or drip dry + hair dryer. The repellent on most cordura/superfabric etc goreTex suits can be refreshed with normal spray based water repellent.
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Oct 29, 2019 13:24
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And that's why I got a small winter bike and winter gear. I can't handle not riding from mid october to late march..
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Nov 6, 2019 08:29
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Mirconium posted:WR250R with studded tires with ACAB stenciled on 'em? close, nx250 
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Nov 6, 2019 10:49
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Yeah nah, Oslo, Norway do get snow, but not usually not until after new year. If you wanna go anywhere interesting though it may be snowy from mid November. Frost and salted roads is another thing entirely and that's everywhere here from late October. You don't want salt on your pretty summer road bike.
Supradog fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Nov 6, 2019 |
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Nov 6, 2019 19:30
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The money solution is gear with Gore-tex Pro shell or other similar membrane that's bonded to the outer shell, not a zip-in liner that lets the outer shell soak up water. Saves the hassle of having to get on another layer of clothing + you always have your rain gear avaliable. If you get a variant with has enough vents, like most klim gear, a weather change is just zipping up/ down vent zippers. Maybe stop and remove a base layer when it gets too warm. For foot pegs you usually have some adjustment of the controls built into the bike, and changing the foot rest/peg itself is all that's needed. Unless you do an extreme position change. The easiest kits are stuff similar to these, that you can adjust pretty far in most directions.  There is also kits that just lower everything, even the controls. Google around for your specific bike.  I'd first just try lowering the peg a little, It's really strange how much change there is even with just like a 20mm downward adjustment of the pegs. A little more relaxed knee/hip angle might be all you need. Supradog fucked around with this message at 11:47 on Dec 4, 2019 |
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Dec 4, 2019 11:07
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I always think of this video when people talk about overly loose chains https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBZWjwHgveY
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Dec 7, 2019 08:57
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Many of those people ride maybe 2 weekends/days when it's warm and sunny in the middle of summer. There is a fun/depressing game related to this you can do on your local motorbike for sale listings platform of choice. Try to find the oldest but most kitted up bike with least km/miles ridden. Hard mode is exclude any harleys.
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Jan 3, 2020 15:57
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Challenging yourself on a bike in safe conditions is really really rewarding and skill building. I had built up experience over 5 years on gravel and road riding with a transalp 600. I knew nothing. Getting a small nx250 and then getting studded tires for winter tires is something else. When you've danced in 3 inches of fresh snow with random iced slush underneath you praise the awesome amount of grip a gravel road gives you. Then you realize grip and traction. In short . Smallest bike, all the mud/sand/snow you can. It's so rewarding. And so Fun!
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Jan 3, 2020 23:34
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:
My coworker had a real fun experience with his riding buddy related to that. Turns out you can get aftermarket levers for some years of gsx 1000 that it had an extra adjustment screw for the travel of the part that engages the plunger at the front brake master cylinder, not just the normal lever distance adjustment with a dial/lever. This screw does not have locktite on it by default. It could then unwind itself and result in a front brake that you could press, the lever itself would return to normal position, but the brake would still be full on. And it would stay locked up until it sloowly loosened pressure.
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Jan 7, 2020 09:01
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 Black helmets are canvases for fun stickers. You can even be safe/boring and add reflective ones. Plastidip can be used to make it any colour you want
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Feb 1, 2020 16:09
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 This should be a vectorised png image. I just printed it on some variant of sticker paper on a normal printer, not recommended. I didn't cover it in clear pastidip or similar so it flaked off in like 2 weeks. You want it on something that can stretch a little. I think print shops can do this easily. Based on muffler mike https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2032191&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=790#post436618942 Genesis happens in the next couple of pages. Supradog fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Feb 2, 2020 |
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Feb 2, 2020 01:25
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Only other thing I can think of is the rubber grip slightly slipping on thottle tube when the failing glue warmed up from the sun /turning on the heated grip. Only enough grip to keep the actual throttle input/rpm at 75%ish of normal max. But that's usually more noticeable.
Supradog fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Mar 6, 2020 |
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Mar 6, 2020 07:19
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Sagebrush posted:No you shut up. The CB350 engine sounds and feels like a sewing machine had a baby with a leaf blower and it's great. In regards to what? For unintended reliability problems I'd go for the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aprilia_RXV/SXV
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May 28, 2020 20:06
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This is doubly true with gravel/loose/soft surface riding. You point it in the general direction and let it float, while arresting too big movements, and limiting too big inputs so the front does not turn into a rudder.
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Jun 8, 2020 12:56
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Algae is mostly an issue on uniform smoothish surfaces, like concrete in a dedicated water crossing. A "normal" river crossing does not have the algae issue because the riverbed is not uniform. If you can flat foot the bike, it's not that heavy and your soles has traction i'd waddle over. if your soles has no traction, tossing on some sand/ small rocks/ earth is the only thing I can think of as a "fast" fix. The problem is though that usually you don't know that it's that drat slippery. Coast straight across with a little steering input as possible if you happen across one you are unsure of. The issue here is the front slipping, not the rear from too little traction vs power input. Wooden bridges, cattle grids especially when wet is the same method. go straight over with no lean, with as little input as possible. If it's an river/stream, you gun it more to keep momentum up vs rocks and to not sink into mud.
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Jul 6, 2020 16:47
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Depends how much you ride really. I ride enough that both of my bikes get new tires at least once every year.
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Oct 10, 2020 16:35
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Phone posted:Just got shipping notification for the service manual... the last few days have been great weather wise, feels bad not being able to get out there. You cant find a copy online? What bike do you have again? I've only seen ktm been real stingy about service manuals on some models, the rest I've found after some googling. ofc a paper copy is neat too.
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Nov 6, 2020 08:26
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We got locked storage room at work that only me and my coworker that also rides has access to. Works nicely as change and gear storage room for us both.
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Dec 29, 2020 09:00
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Slavvy posted:This is just a pointless thing to worry about. If they're gonna do that there's nothing you can do so there's no point wasting attention on it. You aren't going to make a split second decision to launch off the line to stop getting rear-ended based off the information in your mirror. Yup, at a light pay a little attention to the rear to someone are stopped behind you, afterwards all attention should be forward.
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Jan 8, 2021 20:39
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I've used both Road 5 and Pirelli Angel GT II. Of those two I'd go for the pirellis any day. You'll drop some milage on the rear, but the Pirellis felt more easy to turn and kept that longer than the road 5. Both have excellent wet and cold grip. I did 14000km /8700miles on the road 5, 11500km/7150 miles on the gt ii. I'd say both had 1k miles left at least when I swapped them, I did pre-emptive swaps before long holidays. This was on a yamaha fz6n in Norway, so general cold climate with semi rough pavement.
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Feb 5, 2021 23:08
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Very good, but It depends how often you wanna change tires really. Its the even grippier but faster wearing cousin of the angel Gt 2. I only got 4300 miles out of the rear before it hit the wear bars. The grip is excellent in both wet and dry. I only ran it may to august though, as then it was spent, so I've only tried it in warm weather. It felt grippier and more planted but still even more turn happy than the angels.
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Feb 9, 2021 22:41
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Sadly this is only available in norwegian in video form, but you can get the book in english https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9WbyNfpjE3Skiibnn4xjiMfOCo87W2i7 https://issuu.com/nmcufullkontroll/docs/full_control_2013 http://www.fim-live.com/en/article/fim-road-safety-award-2017-candidate-profile-1/
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Feb 17, 2021 13:24
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Same deal in Norway. There are some special rules for protected forests too, like you can't make fires in there from deadwood. In general any road or track that is drivable by car is okay. Marked private or gated roads are also ofc not ok.
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Apr 29, 2021 11:16
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One thing I'd worry about on the front mounted cam at least is all the bug splatter.
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May 16, 2021 23:50
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This is more gear thread related, but also for new riders. What your helmet is good for is designed. You get what you pay for. Even with high end helmets the bobblehead factor and what it's designed for makes a difference. I had a Schuberth E1 that I used without the peak, it was okay. good ventilation, quiet. I ride naked bikes or no faring bikes. I wanted more shell sizes(a smaller helmet) and less weight so I got a AGV sportmodular. Carbon fiber, more shell sizes and more streamlined. The biggest difference is that its effortless to sit in 70 to 80mph on a naked bike. smooth. On the Schuberth moving your head around in the airstream was an effort and much more noticeable when you turn your head. The smaller speed oriented agv helmet was really much better for my riding.
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May 20, 2021 23:50
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How to feel that you have mastered this motorcycle thing: Unexpectedly being in 2nd from a stand still and clutch modulate it out with zero hassle.
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May 22, 2021 00:09
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 02:01 |
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Kawasaki makes a lot of stuff. I don't think the two other classic japanese heavy industries Mitsubishi or IHI has a motorcycle sub arm. Mitsubishi has made scooters. Supradog fucked around with this message at 23:07 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 22:59
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