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Baronjutter posted:Just get some 2x10's or something and nail them onto the sides of your engineered beams, she'll hold. "Load-bearing 'or something'" might be a new one, I like it.
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Apr 3, 2017 20:06
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Slugworth posted:A full schedule is one thing, but I will say I have no patience for a professional who is flaky about communications. Talking to a number of contractors in the past for jobs of varying size all make me come to the same realization, that customer service is nearly non-existent. Just do what you say you are going to do. Return phone calls. Show up when you say you will show up. Charge me what you say you will charge me (barring unforeseen circumstances of course). Basically get your poo poo together. It seems like every contractor is just living by the seat of their pants. Waiting for the next job so they can pay for stuff from the job they're currently working on. Poor planning and poor service do not make for good business and certainly deters me from wanting to work with them on anything. On the other hand, I have spoken to two engineers that have been very helpful and responsive and both have offered to draw up engineering plans for $500. One is convinced the beams will not need to be replaced. I haven't jumped on either of these plans yet since I'm still gathering data.
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Apr 3, 2017 20:37
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bEatmstrJ posted:. Basically get your poo poo together. Do you even read what you write? By the way those same engineers may be able to recommend a competent contractor for you. Personal recommendations are a great way to find someone and a good builder will also be really busy so they probably wont be able to drop what they are doing and talk to you right away.
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Apr 3, 2017 20:42
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bEatmstrJ posted:On the other hand, I have spoken to two engineers that have been very helpful and responsive and both have offered to draw up engineering plans for $500. I'm surprised an engineer would wet stamp such plans, especially for that price.
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Apr 3, 2017 21:04
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Really? Thats about the going rate for them here too, for something basic as a few beams. When I wanted to take out a load bearing wall and size the beam to replace it, it was $450.
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Apr 3, 2017 21:57
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Yeah an architect I do side work for will do stuff like that all the time. He'll come up with a solution he knows will work because basic engineering isn't that hard, he'll get me to do up a set of drawings and notes for it, then an engineer friend will sign off on it for about $500.
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Apr 3, 2017 22:00
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OP have you considered steel beams? Extremely durable 99 percent of the time and are supremely difficult to cut through. May not survive a house fire though.
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Apr 3, 2017 22:10
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What about using the existing engineered beams as a form to pour a large concrete block? Chain your bathtub to that and its not going anywhere.
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Apr 3, 2017 22:14
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Vulcan posted:Really? Thats about the going rate for them here too, for something basic as a few beams. Baronjutter posted:Yeah an architect I do side work for will do stuff like that all the time. He'll come up with a solution he knows will work because basic engineering isn't that hard, he'll get me to do up a set of drawings and notes for it, then an engineer friend will sign off on it for about $500. Maybe it depends on whether permits are involved, where you may not be able to just present drawings of a few joists and the proposed fix.
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Apr 3, 2017 22:33
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socketwrencher posted:Maybe it depends on whether permits are involved, where you may not be able to just present drawings of a few joists and the proposed fix. Everything needs a permit where I am. The most recent one I did was an asap thing too because a family decided to take out a majority of a bearing wall holding their roof up in order to build their open plan "dream kitchen", hired an interior kitchen designer then got to work them selves but halfway through realized maybe they should get an engineer involved. They just needed a couple columns and a beam to hold up the roof and nothing was in critical risk of falling apart but even that was a "holy poo poo no" situation and the city was quick to fast track everything. I just went with my gut on what would work because they needed a drawing like same-day to submit to the city and then only after get it stamped by the engineer. My guess was correct, hooray!!
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Apr 3, 2017 22:41
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Y'all finished kicking OP? I want to see him fix this.
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Apr 4, 2017 03:08
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Baronjutter posted:Everything needs a permit where I am. The most recent one I did was an asap thing too because a family decided to take out a majority of a bearing wall holding their roof up in order to build their open plan "dream kitchen", hired an interior kitchen designer then got to work them selves but halfway through realized maybe they should get an engineer involved. They just needed a couple columns and a beam to hold up the roof and nothing was in critical risk of falling apart but even that was a "holy poo poo no" situation and the city was quick to fast track everything. I just went with my gut on what would work because they needed a drawing like same-day to submit to the city and then only after get it stamped by the engineer. My guess was correct, hooray!! This sounds very different from how things work out my way but hey it's a big world. Glad it worked out.
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Apr 4, 2017 05:02
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Zahgaegun posted:Y'all finished kicking OP? Seriously. You have to have pretty thick skin to post poo poo on this site. Gonna try to call a few more contractors tomorrow and see if I can setup some appointments. Wish me luck. In other news I did complete a side task. I bought some mirrors to go above my vanities once the wall is tiled. The mirrors came with front facing lights, but I also wanted the mirrors to be backlit so I added some additional LEDs around the edges. Worked out pretty nicely. (They look a little better flush up against the wall but thats a little tricky without mounting them.  
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Apr 4, 2017 06:47
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bEatmstrJ posted:Seriously. You have to have pretty thick skin to post poo poo on this site. I'm the screw wire connector just hanging out on the carpet pretending not to be a fire hazard.
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Apr 4, 2017 12:25
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I hope you can see how to fix your hosed up floors in the mirror, op.
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Apr 4, 2017 12:33
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This thread is hilarious. There are very real fuckups going on, but the wire-nuts on a carpet for a few minutes to take pictures is not going to start a fire. At least wait until he installs it to find something to call out.
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Apr 4, 2017 12:44
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glynnenstein posted:This thread is hilarious. There are very real fuckups going on, but the wire-nuts on a carpet for a few minutes to take pictures is not going to start a fire. At least wait until he installs it to find something to call out. I think it's just how loving obscure them things are compared to UK standard connector strips, which are then wrapped in insulated tape. And the fact that will just be hanging there in a humid bathroom just waiting to come loose and short out on the mirror's frame. I'm aware that it's the least offensive thing in the thread, but at this point it's just gonna turn into a dog pile on OP for simply refusing to accept that I-Beams work in a very specific way.
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Apr 4, 2017 13:16
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I'm assuming he just spliced on a pig tail to plug it in to test out the lighting and that the mirror lights will be hardwired in an appropriately rated electrical box during the final installation.
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Apr 4, 2017 14:15
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brugroffil posted:I'm assuming he just spliced on a pig tail to plug it in to test out the lighting and that the mirror lights will be hardwired in an appropriately rated electrical box during the final installation. Yes I am 100% sure this is how it was planned
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Apr 4, 2017 18:11
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I'm not sure why people here freak out about wire nuts so much. As long as you use the properly sized on and tighten it down all the way they're fine. And wrap them up in electrical tape. I mean, obviously you don't want a splice like that in an extension cord, but in pretty much any other wire joining situation they're fine.
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Apr 4, 2017 18:22
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I'm the duckfoot
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Apr 4, 2017 19:19
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ExplodingSims posted:I'm not sure why people here freak out about wire nuts so much. As long as you use the properly sized on and tighten it down all the way they're fine. And wrap them up in electrical tape.
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Apr 4, 2017 19:31
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Slugworth posted:There's really no need to wrap them. I do, because why not, but they're designed not to require it and code doesn't require it. Bathroom moisture?
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Apr 4, 2017 19:34
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brugroffil posted:I'm assuming he just spliced on a pig tail to plug it in to test out the lighting and that the mirror lights will be hardwired in an appropriately rated electrical box during the final installation. This is exactly correct. Thank you for being a sane person and not piling on the thread poo poo train.
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Apr 4, 2017 20:13
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bEatmstrJ posted:This is exactly correct. Thank you for being a sane person and not piling on the thread poo poo train. you're not exactly in a great position to be coming down on other people's impulsiveness
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Apr 4, 2017 23:07
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It's a fun mental structural engineering exercise to think of something to repair the flange without ripping up too much more flooring. Thinking a 1.5-ft-long metal sleeve between a replacement flange and the existing flange edges, some webbing and some sort of wood to reinforce the webbing like a sister joint. Would require really tight tolerances. Good epoxy on some strong wood would transfer forces to the remaining webbing pretty effectively, and an over-engineered metal joint would be stronger than continuous wood. My practical solution here would be replacing the joint and getting nice new tiling. Definitely do not try the above solution and if you do, please post the aftermath.
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Apr 4, 2017 23:40
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dpack_1 posted:I think it's just how loving obscure them things are compared to UK standard connector strips, which are then wrapped in insulated tape. And why can't ya'll figure out how to combine hot and cold into 1 tap? Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Apr 5, 2017 |
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Apr 5, 2017 00:33
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dpack_1 posted:I think it's just how loving obscure them things are compared to UK standard connector strips, which are then wrapped in insulated tape. In my experience, attempting to seal up a connection with tape or whatever in a damp air environment is only going to accelerate the corrosion. Let it breathe and dry out.
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Apr 5, 2017 02:47
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bEatmstrJ posted:This is exactly correct. Thank you for being a sane person and not piling on the thread poo poo train. You're still a dope for slicing up the structural integrity of your house lol -A licensed engineer
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Apr 5, 2017 03:53
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Crotch Fruit posted:Counterpoint: UK ring mains. I mean seriously, just what the gently caress. . . Mixer taps are a thing here now. Sure, we burned the first few salesmen at the stake for witchcraft but that just counts as trade negotiations here these days.
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Apr 5, 2017 06:05
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brugroffil posted:You're still a dope for slicing up the structural integrity of your house lol You're the kind of engineer I don't want to hire. But feel free to prove me wrong and actually be helpful at some point. - An ambitious DIYer
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Apr 5, 2017 07:34
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I mean what exactly are you disagreeing with that people are saying?
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Apr 5, 2017 07:47
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bEatmstrJ posted:You're the kind of engineer I don't want to hire. But feel free to prove me wrong and actually be helpful at some point. Translation: You're the kinda engineer that doesn't just want to take my money and run away laughing to the bank after telling me "it'll be fine" and because your words hurt my DIY ego I don't want to listen to them. Any engineer doesn't have to tell you how to do the job that they would normally be paid lots of money for. They get paid lots of money for having that knowledge, you have no right to expect that knowledge to be passed to you for free. HIRE A GOD drat CERTIFIED ENGINEER TO STOP YOUR HOUSE FALLING DOWN!
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Apr 5, 2017 13:03
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I am just upset he tore up a bathroom that is way better than my bathroom.
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Apr 5, 2017 13:58
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deratomicdog posted:I am just upset he tore up a bathroom that is way better than my bathroom. *was
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Apr 5, 2017 13:59
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bEatmstrJ posted:You're the kind of engineer I don't want to hire. But feel free to prove me wrong and actually be helpful at some point. "Thanks for your help, guys. I'm gonna keep digging. I'll find the Mines of Moria and I'll just walk to the surface."
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Apr 5, 2017 14:06
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bEatmstrJ posted:You're the kind of engineer I don't want to hire. But feel free to prove me wrong and actually be helpful at some point. My advice would be to hire a structural engineer (which I think you said you're doing already, good!) and contact your local building department to pull the proper permits for the work you're doing. I'm not a structural engineer, so I definitely won't be offering any professional advice on exactly how hosed your floor and wall are. I'm also an ambitious DIYer. This will be an expensive lesson to yourself to spend twice as much time researching how to do a job properly, safely and soundly as it will take you to actually do the job. Cutting corners can lead to major problems down the road as can simply doing the job improperly due to lack of knowledge (e.g. what's your plan for vapor barriers for the shower tile? lots of Crappy Construction thread bathroom remodels have none). Treat building code as an absolute minimum, not your max target. e: just remember that if you hadn't posted those pictures to this thread, you would have blundered ahead in creating a literal death trap. People are going to give you some poo poo over that even while they're giving you advice. brugroffil fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Apr 5, 2017 |
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Apr 5, 2017 14:39
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brugroffil posted:I'm assuming he just spliced on a pig tail to plug it in to test out the lighting and that the mirror lights will be hardwired in an appropriately rated electrical box during the final installation. bEatmstrJ posted:This is exactly correct. Thank you for being a sane person and not piling on the thread poo poo train. brugroffil posted:You're still a dope for slicing up the structural integrity of your house lol bEatmstrJ posted:You're the kind of engineer I don't want to hire. But feel free to prove me wrong and actually be helpful at some point. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ag1o3koTLWM
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Apr 5, 2017 15:33
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brugroffil posted:My advice would be to hire a structural engineer (which I think you said you're doing already, good!) and contact your local building department to pull the proper permits for the work you're doing. Exactly. Pulling permits isn't always the grueling and expensive process that people imagine, and plan reviewers and inspectors can be incredibly helpful. The work should be done properly, disclosed and on record because no matter how long you plan to stay in the house eventually someone else will be living there.
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Apr 5, 2017 16:25
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Can I also add that this:bEatmstrJ posted:Yes, which i'm sure is not to code, but its the only way I can accomplish what I'm trying to do
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Apr 5, 2017 17:33
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