I have a project where I need to cool some electronics bolted to heatsinks, but for arbitrary reasons I can't put any moving parts nearby (like within 25 feet), including motors or fans. Water cooling isn't an option either, has to be ambient air, about the equivalent of a 120mm fan you find in desktop computers (airflow of 20-50cfm). My plan was to feed in fresh air via rubber tubing from a pump or compressor, and direct it over the heatsink fins with some sort of nozzle. Originally I thought I could push that much air out of a big aquarium pump over 30ft of 1/4" rubber tubing, but it seems that I'll need something much more powerful than an aquarium pump. But most of the other air pumps out there are compressors for air tools, which have insanely high pressure to deliver short bursts of air. I need a continuous stream. After doing some research the best looking thing I've come up with is something like this High-Flow Low-Pressure Compressed Air Blower. But I don't know what sort of pressure I'll need to push the air to the destination over whatever tubing I use, or how to get the air out of the tubing onto the fins of my heatsinks. Any help would be appreciated. ANIME AKBAR fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Mar 29, 2017 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2017 21:22 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 10:32 |
LogisticEarth posted:Is there a reason a small HVAC setup wouldn't work? Do you need a thin stream of air directed at the heat sinks, or just be able to move air across them?Like, if you want to kind of Micky Mouse it, you could hook up a moderately powerful blower to a rigid PVC or HDPE line. I think you don't really need a pump or compressor, just a blower. I was hoping to keep the pipe/tube diameter at 1" or less, and most blowers seem to have much larger openings. The tube is going to need some flexibility to it as well. ANIME AKBAR fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Mar 29, 2017 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2017 04:27 |
Bibendum posted:That blower you linked is probably overkill, Something like this mightmake more sense. and would probably directly attach to cheap PVC pipe. quote:You shouldn't need to worry about getting the air directly into the heatsink fins, itf the heatsinks are sized correctly convection should do that for you, you just need to get the hot air out of the enclosure. ANIME AKBAR fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Mar 29, 2017 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2017 04:32 |
Pressure regulators are a new thing to me, can they efficiently drop a compressor output (>50psi) to a very low pressure (<3psi)? Also I don't think I'll be able think I'll be able to put the regulator near the output, so it would be compressor>regulator>long haul tubing>manifold>short haul tubing>heatsinks. The heatsink fins won't provide too much resistance to the air (they're only about 4" long and 0.5" deep), so I need very little pressure to get a lot of airflow at the final output (I think?). My basic problem is I don't know the theory behind compressed air and the various devices. My expertise is in electronics, but it seems that compressed gas systems are described in very different terms from electrical circuits. So let's say I want my total output to be have pressure Pout at some volumetric flow rate Vout. What should my compressor be rated, and how can I account for losses in the tubing/regulator?
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# ¿ Mar 30, 2017 14:49 |
asdf32 posted:Mattress inflator? So combining this compressor with this booster should give me plenty of output, right? Also with that compressor, will I need to remove moisture from the output even if I'm using a booster? goodnight mooned posted:The pressure drop is proportional to flow rate and inversely proportional to your tube diameter. I'm used to dealing with electrical components, which always come with their own datasheet with curves detailing what to expect under various operating conditions, but for this compressed air stuff they just throw a few numbers at you. I don't know what to expect in specific conditions, aside from conservation of mass and energy, of course. For the booster above, it says it gives 155-250cfm of output flow with 90psi of input pressure. But isn't that dependent on the pressure at the output port? And my compressor can only deliver 3cfm at 90psi, and the booster has a 12:1 ratio, so I can only expect up to 36cfm at the output. So does that mean this booster is a bad match for this compressor? ANIME AKBAR fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Mar 31, 2017 |
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# ¿ Mar 31, 2017 15:33 |
goodnight mooned posted:Air pressure at your output is going to be lower than at the input? quote:You should be able to get performance curves for compressors and regulators from the manufacturer, and you can estimate the friction losses through a pipe. quote:That is an air compressor with high pressure but low flow (look at the size of the tank). You don't need 90psi to move air 25 feet. quote:Are you limited in the size tubing you can run? Because if you can run ducting you could use a centrifugal fan (they can move a lot of air) and avoid using a compressor. Neutrino posted:I would suggest not using tubing and instead using something like 1" PVC pipe as you air duct. PVC pipe can handle higher pressures and will be much cheaper and stronger for your purposes than vinyl or plastic tubing. I think using this as ducting will even simplify your compressor requirements. ANIME AKBAR fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Apr 1, 2017 |
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2017 00:20 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 10:32 |
goodnight mooned posted:Seems to me you're overthinking this then if you're just aiming for something cheap and temporary. quote:Go back and read babyeatingpsychopath's solution because he nailed it. Unsane posted:Why not just grab a small squirrel cage fan, and route some 3" duct into the case. You're way over thinking this. ANIME AKBAR fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Apr 3, 2017 |
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2017 00:11 |