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socketwrencher
Apr 10, 2012

Be still and know.
Nicely done. I love projects like this, thanks for sharing the pics.

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socketwrencher
Apr 10, 2012

Be still and know.

poopinmymouth posted:



Roofing felt is on, with strips of plastic running between the nails for extra strength. Wooden strips were cut to give some separation between the boardNbatten siding to come, and grooves were cut in the strips before attaching so that any water that does make it through can leak down. Strips were made by ripping 1x2s down the center, then using my table saw sled to put grooves every 10 cm or so. They were nailed to the OSB with framing nails, but once the siding goes up there will be longer ring shank nails all the way through.


Very cool. I like how you considered details like water channels, they may not ever be needed but they don't take that long to cut so why not. Also like the air gap separation between the siding and OSB, no matter the finish on the siding water will permeate and the separation will help dry things out.

What's the plan for the siding on the left side? Run it down to the concrete wall and then seal the gap?

socketwrencher
Apr 10, 2012

Be still and know.

poopinmymouth posted:

Thanks!

Yeah the plan is to rip 45 degree angles on a 1x5 so I can make a bevel and put that along the bottom. The right side is also like this, but with a lower concrete wall it joins up to. I'll have photos tomorrow showing how that works

Nice. What do you folks use to finish siding up your way? Does latex paint hold up in your climate?

socketwrencher
Apr 10, 2012

Be still and know.

poopinmymouth posted:

Nope, lol. Almost all outdoor paint is oil based, which is what we plan to use. The roof we ordered is a brick red corrugated metal (very popular here in Iceland, almost all older timber houses are clad in "Bárujarn" (wave iron). The siding will be the same red from the bottom 1/3 and down, and a nice vibrant blue for the top 2/3s.

Ah right, makes sense to go oil-based, and the color scheme sounds great.


poopinmymouth posted:

Siding is up! I used 22x120 and 22x45 (1x5s and 1x2s roughly) for the board and batten. Pressure treated, though apparently I could have saved some money and weight by using normal lumber and painting well. Live and learn!

Pressure-treated seems worth the premium as the project is relatively small and paint eventually fails, but I'm biased because normal lumber is pretty bad out my way and I'm often surprised how well pressure-treated holds up over time despite ground contact.

Not nitpicking here but is there a reason you only nailed one side of the boards? The battens may not be strong enough to hold down cupping/warping.

On the sides of the house it's hard to tell how much gap you have between the boards and the horizontal board beneath them but it might be better for them not to be in contact with each other. Metal flashing can also be useful between the horizontal boards and the concrete wall depending on how water sheds away or back toward the structure.

Cheers for the pics! Looking forward to seeing the roof and completion of the shed.

socketwrencher
Apr 10, 2012

Be still and know.

poopinmymouth posted:

The one side of the boards only lasted briefly. I found a "nailing pattern guide" and was following that, but like you said, it didn't seem strong enough for the warping and I switched to center nails. Still only one per board per level, though.

Hopefully it'll hold up, and if not the beauty of board-and-batten is that you can easily fix things.

poopinmymouth posted:

Why might it be better for the siding not to touch the bottom? in any case, only one or two were so perfectly cut that they touch. Flashing was originally intended, but I just couldn't find any at the 2 major hardware stores here in Iceland. Flashing seems more a "order special with your roof" kind of thing, rather than available in rolls. Flashing tape was available, but that didn't seem durable enough. So far it hasn't leaked at all on the sides, despite that bottom board not sitting with a perfect seal. I intended to silicon it up but as of now it seems unnecessary.

I just prefer the bottom of siding not to be in contact with anything else so water will drain easier and the wood will dry out faster. Same with the siding on the front left, I don't know if the discoloration at the bottom of the boards is due to water but it's good to have the bottom of the boards not in contact with anything.

Might be good to add silicone between the horizontal board and the concrete wall even if it doesn't seem necessary. Overkill that doesn't take a lot of time and money is good insurance.


poopinmymouth posted:

Roof is on! Roof was such a fiasco, the ordering. I ordered this through the local hardware store, though it comes from one central provider. First I had to figure out all the roofing specific words in Icelandic (flashing and edge covers are different words) and then had to deal with 2 different employees, and despite providing multiple emails, links to PDFs of exactly what I wanted, PLUS several illustrations, it was a mess.

Ha, I know the feeling well. Life with humans. We're definitely a work in progress LOL. Good luck with the concrete floor.

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socketwrencher
Apr 10, 2012

Be still and know.

poopinmymouth posted:


No picture after drying, but it feels nice and strong, nothing inside has shown even a spec of dampness since, despite lots of torrential rains and even some snow. Seems the flashing, rain membrane, and raised floor did their job. I learned a ton on this project and now we have a nice big shed for storage. A job well done and my sense of pride is swollen. :-D

Looks great, nicely done! Nothing like building something on your own, and more storage always comes in handy.

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