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Cheesemaster200 posted:Thoughts on Steri-pen? I noticed it wasn't listed in the OP. I have used one on three continents and haven't had any problems with the water it treats yet. So far it is my favorite water treatment. This might be a personal thing but I've never understood the draw to Steripens. Steripens seem like a nice choice for a day hike or something where you don't want to carry a lot of water and just filter as you go especially if you know the sources run clear. You will still have to likely use a rag or something to filter out the particulates and floaties. For long term use in the backcountry, I wouldn't feel comfortable relying on something that requires batteries to work when there are manual options that don't. Pros
Cons
For every aspect of the Steripen, I think there is a better option available Size - go with chemical treatment, or inline filter Weight - go with chemical treatment, inline filter, or gravity system Purity of water - most decent filters are great options. Ease of use - chemical or gravity system Cost - chemical, inline or gravity system Group use (filtering lots of water) - gravity or pump system speed of filtration - gravity or pump system
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May 22, 2017 18:51
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forkbucket posted:No idea what the R-value of my old pad was, but apparently this newer 1/4" one is around R-value 0.90. Hopefully that'll be warm enough, but I run hot so who knows! The temperature range you listed doesn't sound too extreme but I would be nervous if it gets near or lower than 5ºC. Your sleeping pad is essentially a piece of cardboard in terms of insulation and won't do a thing to insulate you from the ground. Hopefully you have a decent enough sleeping bag appropriate for the given climate. Also keep in mind if it rains its going to feel much colder and the ground will suck the heat right out of you. forkbucket posted:Another thing I'm debating trying out: Using trail runners instead of my traditional mountain boots. I've been reading a bunch about using trail runners in stead of traditional boots, with the pros and cons of both. Most people who write about it on the internet seem to be in the USA. Ask any Norwegian and they'll balk at the idea of using anything less than a 1.2 kg boot in the mountains, so it makes me feel like I'm breaking some unwritten rule by doing it. I've switched to backpacking in trail runners a few years ago and I don't regret it one bit. A few of the primary reasons I've switched was lighter weight (by nearly a pound per foot), increased breathability, and they dry quickly. I've had several pairs of "waterproof" boots including goretex and they've all wetted out/soaked eventually. The worst part about waterproof boots is that when they do get wet, they don't dry. After 15 miles and thousands of feet of elevation gain, I feel like the 2 pound weight savings on my feet really starts to take notice. The other thing is how quick they are to dry. I've had waterproof boots and they've all soaked at some point. The worst part is how long it takes for them to dry and its miserable waking up in the morning and putting on wet boots. Also for backpacking, you are putting several days worth of hiking on your feet and if your boots don't dry out, you are going to destroy your feet. Also, I bring crocs as camp shoes/river crossing shoes. They weigh nothing, don't absorb water, and slip on easily while staying on due to the back strap. They are ugly as sin but my god if they weren't made perfectly for this purpose. Clip them to your pack with a carabineer and bingo bango. Depending on the length of the trip, I hike with a 25-35 lb pack (with food and water). I'm 5'10" and about 160lbs for a frame of reference and I don't notice a difference in "support". Most of my backpacking boots in the past were mid height so they never really fully covered the ankle. I play hockey so I have pretty strong and stable ankles which might help me. Then again, I'm also not doing any class 3 scrambles with my pack on either. Most of my scrambles are side trips after we've made camp. One of the downfalls of trail runners is that they seem to let in a lot of dirt/dust. Thats the sacrifice you make with the increased breathability. My feet don't generally sweat anymore but they will get really dirty. I just take time to wash my feet every night and beat out my shoes. forkbucket posted:I've read tips like bringing a warm dry pair of socks to change into once you get into camp, then putting bread bags over your dry socks before putting em back into the trail runners to help dry the shoes and keep your feet dry. I've stopped carrying extra clothes (beyond the necessary) but I still bring extra socks. I have a few rituals for keeping my feet clean. I bring 2 pairs of medium weight wool hiking socks and 1 pair of thicker wool socks for in camp/sleeping. After each day of hiking I wash my feet and the socks that I hiked in that day. Hang that pair to dry and put on my clean camp socks. In the morning I will put on my clean pair of hiking socks and repeat. The bread bag thing seems like it would cause your feet to sweat ... not sure its something I would want to try. Verman fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 18:13
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ASSTASTIC posted:^^^^^^^What were you doing when it came to cleaning your boots after hikes? Its recommended that you clean your boots after every/every other hike because dirt and wear and tear can break down the water repellency of boots. Using a brush to scurb off dirt as well as shampoo them down. You also need to to reapply DWR to boots as well at LEAST every year. I do this to my jackets and boots every year and haven't had an issue with them soaking up water.^^^^^^^^^^^ Jackets and boots are apples and oranges, completely different pieces of gear when it comes to waterproofness. Jackets are much easier to maintain. Boots are infinitely more difficult to keep waterproof and the more waterproof they are the less breathable they tend to be. I wash and clean my gear after every big trip. Boots get a spray off with an air hose, then a brushing and cleaning in a tub of water. I reapply DWR every season (spring and fall). I've had boots that are much more successful than others at keeping water out but they all suffer from the same problems eventually. The more waterproof a boot is, the less breathable it tends to be. This can cause your feet to sweat and now you have a hot and wet foot. The materials that work so hard to keep moisture out also do a very good job of keeping it in. Most of the waterproof liners just act like a bathtub and hold water inside the boot until you can pour it out. Once your boots get soaked, it takes forever for them to dry out and hiking days on end in wet boots will absolutely destroy your feet. If/when your boots get wet, they will get significantly heavier. One of my older pair nearly double their weight when wet. The height of most boots are between mid ankle and just above, so maybe 4-8" off the ground at most. Most river crossings that are lower than the top of my boots can usually be crossed very easily without having to touch the water. If I come to a river thats even close to the height of my boots, I change into my crocs for the crossing. Personally, this is a choice that I made after my experiences outdoors. I've had some miserable experiences where my boots soaked after days of heavy rain and there was zero chance they were going to dry out. My feet were going to be wet no matter what. Had I been in trail runners, at least the water would be allowed to drain and my shoes wouldn't have gained so much weight. They also might have actually been able to dry in my tent overnight whereas my boots felt the exact sam the next day. Its something that each person has to decide for themselves but I have come to grips with my feet getting wet at some point and just having shoes that vent and dry quicker. Keeping dry socks in your pack and a pair of crocs for river crossings/camp shoes is key. I still wear waterproof boots on occasion depending on the trip (mountaineering, snowshoeing, winter hikes, etc) but for most of my hikes and backpacking trips its trail runners for me. My big thing with train runners though is that they need to have a good sole. I personally prefer a vibram sole as I feel it grips really well on rock, and is a stiffer shank protecting you from rocks on the underside etc. While I appreciate the weight savings, its still important to have some protection.
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Jun 14, 2017 19:29
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Costco has an excellent return policy. You should have no problem returning it to a store if it develops a leak. My local costco has a lot of outdoor stuff (we're in seattle) so we generally have the carbon fiber poles, sleeping pads, mountain house freeze dried meals, backpacks etc. Right now, they have backpacking sleeping pads by Klymit which are decent especially for the price. The insulated version is $50ish, insulate with an R value of 4.4, weighs 25 oz w/pillow which is fairly common for an insulated pad thats not ultralight. https://www.costco.com/Klymit-Insulated-Static-V-Sleeping-Pad-with-X-Pillow.product.100320380.html
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Jun 14, 2017 21:56
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FCKGW posted:Looking at getting new bags, should I get something geared towards kids or is an adult bag fine? Ages are 4 and 6. Adult bags can work if your kids are old enough/big enough but won't be as warm as a bag that fits their smaller bodies. I linked to Campmor because they have a wider selection of kids bags than REI and they also have a 20% off coupon (SAVE20) for one full priced item. The Marmot Trestles is a nice bag. 30º rating, $70 and fits kids up to 5' tall. ($54 after coupon) https://www.campmor.com/c/marmot-trestles-synthetic-30-degree-sleeping-bag-kids The Kelty Little Tree and Little Flower are even warmer for the same price.: 20º rating, $70 fits kids to 5'4" tall. https://www.campmor.com/c/kelty-kids-little-tree-and-little-flower-20-degree-sleeping-bags For budget options, the Eureka Grasshopper and Ladybug should work as well: $35. 30º rated, Fits to 5' tall. https://www.campmor.com/c/eureka-grasshopper-30-child-sleeping-bag A lot of people tend to skimp on their kids gear for a lot of reasons but my belief is that if you want your kids to enjoy camping, making them comfortable is going to be the easiest hurdle to get over in making camping with your family successful. Some sort of sleeping pad/mattress and a warm sleeping bag will give them the best chance at a good nights rest. By the time your kids outgrow those sleeping bags, you will likely know if they enjoy camping in which case you can upgrade to adult bags, or they will be teenagers and hate the idea of spending time with their parents and completely loathe the idea of sleeping in a tent with you.
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Jun 15, 2017 18:03
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Alehkhs posted:Oh yeah, I'm not looking to destroy the pads and then return them. I can definitely understand retailers dropping customers that abuse no-worry returns policies. I started out on a foam pad and it was just never comfortable enough for me to keep using it. I would wake up with sore hips, shoulders etc because I always ended up on my side. I realized that I wasn't well rested in the mornings because I could never get comfortable. Then I switched to self inflating pads (half foam, half air) and that was better but still not very comfortable. The thickness was maybe 2" at most fully inflated. You had to really make sure it was as full as you could get it so that you wouldn't feel the ground beneath you. A few problems with that pad were that it was really easy to slide off the pad at night. Second was that the thickness still wasn't comfortable when I ended up on my side. Third was that it wasn't very well insulated so I would get cold in lower temps. Eventually I went with an air pad (and I was hesitant at first). For roughly the same size and less weight, I got a 4" thick insulated pad that is incredibly comfortable, insulated for colder temps, and keeps me from falling off. Even if I sleep on my back, side or stomach, I wake up well rested and comfortable. At first, I was worried about leaks but I don't worry about air pads anymore. I've been using the same inflatable pad for the last 5 years with zero issues. I think a lot of people hear "inflatable" and think of cheap pool toys. The materials they use now are incredible and surprisingly durable. Just be careful to ensure that sharp objects are properly taken care of (knife, multi tool, fork, crampons, etc). Also when setting up your site, make sure to avoid any rocks and sweep away sharp debris like sticks. Honestly though, I likely won't ever switch back from inflated pads.
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Jun 15, 2017 20:27
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CopperHound posted:What do backpackers do about washing clothes? I'm assuming it is bad form to wash in/near a fresh water source, but I can't recall ever seeing any sort of wash basin on gear lists. Most backpackers don't wash their clothes and you wear the same stuff more or less the entire time. The only duplicate items I bring along are socks and underwear. I bring 2 pairs of socks to hike in during the day and 1 pair of socks to keep clean and sleep in at night. I bring 2 pair of underwear and alternate each day. At the end of a day, especially if the weather is nice, I'll wash a pair of socks and underwear to have a clean pair if I need them. If its raining out, your laundry will likely not dry so its not really even of any use to try doing laundry. Just soaking them in water is usually good enough to feel cleaner than before but if you need something more, here's my laundry method. Use a nylon stuff sack, mine is a 10-12 liter which holds all my clothes and stuff I want to keep dry. Fill it with water and bring it back to camp. Insert a drop of soap into the water along with the clothes. Agitate enough to get the clothes soaked, soapy and knock some dirt loose. Remove the clothes, hang on a laundry line and then dump the soapy water out spreading it over a wide area of land. DONT put dirty soap water back into the water source. Soap of any kind isn't good to put into the water, especially if people are using it for drinking. Fill the stuff sack up with clean water and then rinse the soap out of your clothes. Hang dry and enjoy your clean clothes. Verman fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 18:19
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Is that a question or gear recommendation request?
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Jul 11, 2017 19:56
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For car camping you can literally bring whatever you want so long as the weather is decent. Its all dependent on the weather and temps. If its typical summer weather (warm and dry) and the lowest it would get would be in the 50s/60s, I would just bring regular sheets/bedding. If its going to get any colder than that I would bring sleeping bags as they're more effective keeping you warm at night. The other thing is that if its raining or humid, cotton sheets will feel damp. You can also always lay on top of the sleeping bags if its warm and not close them. Maybe bring a sheet if its really warm. I prefer to sleep in colder weather and I can tolerate much lower temps, but my wife would freeze at the same temps so plan accordingly.
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Jul 11, 2017 20:39
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I have a basement with a workbench, utility sink, washer/dryer and lots of cabinet storage. I like plastic totes for storing gear because they usually stack well and you can grab them and go in a hurry. The ones from home depot/costco with the black tote and yellow lids are really nice. For old stuff, sell it on craigslist/offer up or consider donating it to goodwill or possibly a local scouts group. A lot of people want to get outdoors but don't always want or have the means to gear up in order to do so. Out here there are actually used gear stores but I know thats rare in other parts of the country.
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Jul 24, 2017 18:20
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Get Costco poles. They sell a pair by cascade designs for $30 that are carbon fiber with cork grips, carbide tips and have interchangeable baskets. On Amazon they are $40. You can't find a better deal on decent poles. I've had my pair for a few years and they are still 100%. Get the lever lock versus the twist. Amazon has the aluminum version for $20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2HYPNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lf6DzbPYRR1CR Or the carbon for $40 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XM0YGW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lh6DzbKZ6XVM9 Verman fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 20:50
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That's a good choice. My favorite method is gravity filters (dirty bag with an inline filter) with the hose going to the clean container. You can carry extra dirty water to your camp versus having to filter everything at the water source. Your also don't need to do anything other than fill the bladder. Sawyer, platypus, msr all have similar systems. I've used my platypus system for a few years now and it's been great for group trips or solo. Probably should replace the filter soon now that I think about it. Pumps are good too but often more expensive but they are a tried and true option.
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Jul 26, 2017 03:02
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Leperflesh posted:The tablets say you have to wait 4 hours. I'm struggling to think of a scenario where I have four hours to wait for my water to purify, but cannot make a fire and boil some water in substantially less time. Water tablets key benefits aren't their speed. They are small, effective, simple to use, take up zero space and weigh nothing. A weeks worth of clean water is about the size of a small pack of gum. If you just keep them in your first aid kit you will always have a reliable backup. If you can't wait 4 hours for water tabs to do their magic, you need to consider changing how you manage your water. You shouldn't be following a system of run out, refill, run out refill. You should likely have 2 bottles or a bladder and a bottle. Fill both, when you come to a water source, use that as a place to take a break and top off. Never let your water go empty unless you can guarantee the next water source exists and is enough to get water from. Sometimes you might be out hiking somewhere and the source has dried up. Now you're without water and have a choice to backtrack with no water to known sources, or gamble pushing on to the unknown and risking another dried up source. While this isn't a huge deal in places with very reliable water sources, I know out here in the western states it happens all the time. A snow melt stream thats flowing hard in June might not be there in August. Another thing, boiling water takes longer than you think. With a stove it is much quicker but even the fastest stoves take 5 minutes for less than a liter. With increased elevation you need to increase that time. Now consider how many liters you need to refill your groups water. Usually 2-4 liters per person. That stove will be running for nearly an hour just for filtering water. If you're doing it over a fire, consider the time to find wood and get the fire going enough to boil over it. Then you're only doing one small pot at a time. A few scenarios where they would be handy filter problems your filter freezes you drop and damage your filter you lose/forget it (I guarantee its happened to someone) it stops working (though you likely wouldn't know or show symptoms until you got home) stove problems your stove breaks you run out of fuel you lose your lighter your lighter runs out of fuel If building a fire to boil its raining its wet and you can't find dry tinder if you're in an area fires are prohibited if you're in an area with literally no tinder/wood its really windy you just can't get a fire started you're stuck inside your tent (rain/snow) For me, I don't bring water tabs as a primary source of purification but because they are tiny I carry them in my first aid kit as a last resort if something seriously bad happened. Most people bring filters and stoves which create a redundant system (several methods of filtration) so water tabs are just another level of redundancy to ensure you don't go without clean water.
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Jul 27, 2017 17:05
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My dog has had giardia several times (thanks dog parks) and its nothing I ever want to get.
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Jul 28, 2017 20:14
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peach moonshine posted:Think I hosed up and bought a pack too small. Didn't do enough research and the employee at the camping store that 55L would be enough for a 5lb tent and sleeping bag plus three days of clothing, food etc. Can't take it back because it was on clearance. Tent goes on the outside of the bottom of your pack through the straps. You may have to loosen them a bit to make room. Sleeping bag goes inside the pack on the bottom. Stuff everything else on top. Your sleeping bag would benefit from a proper compression sack to remove the air and take up less space (likely about half the size). For three days you can wear the same clothes with a change of socks and underwear for each day. Maybe bring an extra shirt. For food, remove everything from bulky packaging. Boxes are a no go. Baggies are your friend. In general only bring things you think you will need. I'm not sure how remote you will be but this sounds like hike in car camping.
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Jul 30, 2017 07:58
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What do you want in a stove ... Cheap? Small? Adjustable flame? Simple? Fast Boiling? Full cook set (Jet Boil etc)? The MSR pocket rocket is my primary backpacking stove as its incredibly small/light and works well. I also have an MSR Whisperlite international that I use for longer trips, trips at higher elevations, lower tempuratures, melting snow, bigger group etc. I like both. I prefer the weight, size and simplicity of the pocket rocket.
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Aug 1, 2017 19:12
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AMC Eagles were the original subaru.
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Aug 1, 2017 21:35
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Dysentery sounds like a miserable way to spend a few days even at home in the luxury of your own bathroom with a toilet and shower let alone out in the woods. Now most of our trips involve some sort of distance from civilization and often occur miles into the backcountry where your legs and physical wellbeing are what get you back out alive. I've had some pretty nasty diarrhea in my lifetime and I can't fathom getting it 30 miles deep into the mountains while trying to carry a pack and doing strenuous activity. Even if you're still able to walk and exist with the runs, you're likely going to get dehydrated faster and feel weaker. Now, is diarrhea the worst thing in the world? No. Getting mauled by wildlife, trapped in a natural disaster like a fire or avalanche, falling and breaking a leg or knocking yourself out are all infinitely worse but they are also much less probable of happening on a normal basis. You need water every day. The odds of getting some tainted water are definitely possible so this, while not being the most dangerous threat out there, is probably the most likely to occur. The thing about backcountry safety is that you control what you have the ability to control, or at least as much as possible. You can't control getting attacked by wildlife, getting struck by lightning, slipping and breaking your knee, etc but you can control the cleanliness of your water. Thats my theory behind it. The process of gathering water isn't much longer by adding one more step (filtration) into the mix. I guess for me personally, I don't feel the need to roll the dice on my guts for the 3 minutes it takes to filter my water. I usually do it while taking a break anyway so its not worth the possibility of getting sick.
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Aug 16, 2017 22:52
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I've become significantly less worried about bears. Mice/chipmunks/rodents will gently caress your poo poo up infinitely worse on a more frequent/likely basis. They will chew through your $250 backpack to get a granola bar. They will chew through your $300 tent to get some leftover string cheese. I would rather leave my food away from my tent in a cheap stuff sack and replace it if they chew through it than any other piece of gear. Bear bins are nice because they keep food dry, clean and away from all animals. I still hang a bag when I can though because bear bins are heavy and awkward to pack but they do give you a chair to sit on. I've tossed around the idea of a chair but then realized its adding a new pound to my pack and I'm not trying to add weight anymore, just subtract.
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Aug 25, 2017 17:51
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Shachi posted:I'm just getting started and trying to build gear on a budget. I live in the south east (carolinas) and have good proximity to a lot of good places to backpack and being newly divorced...have a lot of time on my hands I'd like to steer into something productive that isn't chasing skirt or hanging out in bars or staying home with the vidja games. Awesome. (I guess not the divorce part ... but maybe it is depending on your outlook) I think going with a tent is the best starter option. It provides the most flexibility and is a good basecamp for getting outdoors until you're seasoned enough to know what you like and if you want something else. Hammocking is a little more niche and I would only recommend to people who have tented a lot in the past and are looking for something different. A 4lb backpacking tent is great for a starter. Its not feather-light but its light enough not to need upgrading right away. It should do fine for many years to come. The 44L backpack might be on the small side. It will work for a quick overnight or two but its going to be small for anything longer than that unless you go ultralight and shave ounces everywhere. The good thing is it will force you to only bring necessary items. If you plan to overnight with your dog, they can always carry their own food usually though dog packs aren't very cheap. You can make the most room of your pack by keeping the tent on the outside and stuffing everything else inside your pack. For the sleeping bag, I really recommend the Kelty Cosmic you're looking at. Its hard to beat for the price. As far as sleeping pads go, determine how you sleep and cater to that. I'm a side sleeper so it took me a while to find the right pad. I tried forcing myself to sleep on my back but I never stay that way. I went with a folding foam pad at first but it killed me. I didn't get a good nights sleep on a foam pad and I just can't sleep on my back. Self inflating pads were still too thin and I always ended up feeling the ground through the pad and waking up throughout the night. I use a Big Agnes insulated Q core pad now and its heavenly, its also lighter and smaller than my thermarest self inflating pad. Personally I think that if you're going to go insulated and you're picky about comfort, just go full inflated. Self inflating pads just seem like a weird middle ground of sacrificing comfort but increasing weight and bulk. I would either go folding foam pad (super light) or full inflatable (super comfortable). I would also recommend starting out with an insulated pad from the beginning. You don't notice extra heat in warm weather but you notice the warmth when its cold. Good luck, try to avoid the gadget/knife black hole. Lots of people sperg out buying giant gently caress-off survival knives only to wind up carrying a tiny pocket knife when they realize their visions of knife fighting a grizzly bear are a lot less common than the battle of opening the plastic around the cheddar cheese. Also, there are a lot of "neat" gadgets. You don't need most of them and they all weigh something. One of my good friends is this guy. He always finds something he thinks is cool and then his pack weighs 50lbs. Start bringing a tiny notepad with you and keep track of things you bring and didn't use or things you felt you really needed but didn't have.
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Aug 28, 2017 18:12
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Shachi posted:The pad is the next place where I'm stuck. I'm trying to get max value on the things I buy ie. being able to use them all year long and so I got concerned when I started reading more about the R-value on gear that I see being highly recommended for beginners to start out with and then seeing that they offered little to no insulation. I think I'm entirely sold against the self inflatables...they don't pack up much smaller than a pad and offer almost no difference in comfort and weigh like 3x as much. So right now it's just a toss between a foam pad that is bulky yet cheap and gives good insul or bite the bullet and spend over $100 on an inflatable that I'm kind of nervous about waking up on the ground in the middle of the night with, as has been my previous experiences with cheap air mattress for car camping. For what its worth, I've had both my thermarest self inflating for 7 years and my Big Agnes inflatable for 5+ years with zero leak issues and I've camped on all kinds of terrain from ice and snow to sticks, rocks and dirt. The difference between a $7 plastic mattress from walmart and a $100 pad from a reputable brand is pretty significant in terms of durability. Buy it from a place reputable dealer and you likely have a decent return/warranty policy. Shachi posted:Water system. I was gonna try to fashion an in-line system with a platypus bag and an a sawyer mini. A couple of friends suggested forgoeing the hydro bags because they don't like carrying the weight. When I asked them what they carried they said they carried two 1 liter smart water bottles....to which I don't understand the difference between that and a 2L platypus bag. I might just go filter and bottle to start and get a bag later. I'm anxious to get out sometime in the next two weekends and see how I do. There's a decent state part within 30 mins that I mapped at least a 38 mile loop through but also offers a chance to bug out every few miles. I'm a big fan of gravity/bladder systems. They are super easy and no moving parts means less to go wrong. Any brand will work for a filter, the sawyer might be the cheapest. I prefer Platypus brand reservoirs though. The material they use doesn't seem to taste like plastic or get as gross as some of the softer silicone type materials. Shachi posted:I'm also going to wait on shoes. Gonna try my minimal trail runners I already have and see how that feels to start. I worry they wont be enough support but we'll see. I read a lot of conflicting arguments about ankle support and needing boots for heavy packs etc. I know its all personal anecdote but I prefer trail runners for most backpacking needs. I'm not a big guy (5'10" 160lbs) and I wear TRs on backpacking trips with a 40lb pack regularly. They are infinitely more comfortable, breathable and much nicer to scramble in. My boots are mostly for mountaineering and cold/snow related stuff. For boots to give you ankle support, they would need to go well over your ankle bone for them to give you support. Most backpacking boots sit below the ankle bone or mid-height. Stronger ankles are a better alternative. I play hockey so my ankles are pretty strong and I don't tend to roll them often. A friend of mine would roll his ankle several times a day and has had nagging injuries on trips in the past. He's recently done PT where they focused on strengthening his muscles and he had zero issues on our last trip which involved a lot more injury prone terrain. I think a lot can be said about taking your time, slowing down, paying attention to foot placement, and just being careful. Its usually stupid poo poo that ends up causing an issue like the steep dusty path going up to the shitter.
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Aug 28, 2017 21:49
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Just buy one good pad with an R-value around 4 and you won't need a second pad unless you're sleeping on top of ice and snow in real winter conditions. You can find an insulated pad rated for 15-20º for less than $100 and it should likely weigh around 1lb 5oz. Check out Moosejaw, Campmor (20% off code SUMMER), backcountry etc.
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Aug 29, 2017 18:48
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Leperflesh posted:I've been meaning to ask: is it possible to have a 3-season bag, and then use some kind of insert or lining you add to it to get to 4-season/sub-freezing temp capability? It seems like it'd be an obvious way to avoid doubling up on gear. Liners don't do as much as you would think they would. Maybe an additional 5-10º tops and my guess would be the thicker the more effective they would be. The other thing is that it depends on what bag/pad you currently have. If you have a 30º bag and an uninsulated pad, a liner won't be enough. If you have a 15º bag, a r5 sleeping pad, and a footprint for your tent, a liner might be the difference between waking up cold and staying asleep warm in your nylon cocoon, but it still likely won't be enough for true winter camping on snow. It just depends on how low of temperatures you want to sleep in. In general, anything pushing your limits on your sleeping bag probably requires a better sleeping bag. Thats a tough and often cosltly pill to swallow as most 0º bags get really expensive especially if you want them to be remotely lightweight and compressible. Warm up before bed (a few jumping jacks or pushups will increase your heart rate) and warm you up, sleep in long underwear, wool socks and a hat. Toss a warm water bottle in your bag before you get in. Get into your tent for a while before crawling into your sleeping bag. Just warming the air in the tent can make a huge difference. Piss as much as physically possible before going to bed. Fluid/water in your bladder works against you which is often why you have to pee when you're cold. Your body is trying to rid itself of excess water. Eat something warm before bed. If your foot box is roomy, stuff some of tomorrows clothes down there to take up space. Your body is warming the air within your sleeping bag. The less air in there the less your body has to work to keep it warm. Don't layer things on top of your sleeping bag. The loft is how the insulation works and its not like blankets on your bed, more doesn't equal better. You can also always try lighting a candle in your tent. You can make a good soda can lantern to ensure that it doesn't light anything on fire. It will provide light and heat and can be just enough to take the chill out of the air. I would ensure a vent is open though to let the smoke out. Use a ground tarp to help prevent waking up with a wet floor. Use a foam pad beneath your air pad for further protection from the ground. A bivvy might work better to keep you warm than a tent. Its a smaller climate and easier for your body to keep warm. The lovely part about sleeping in winter conditions is the frost from your breathing. Your breath is wet and it collects as condensation on the walls of your tent. In the morning, it can look like it snowed inside your tent and you could end up with a wet sleeping bag if the temps are close enough to freezing.
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Sep 1, 2017 00:43
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One of my biggest issues is leftovers. I try to only make enough food that I know I'll be able to eat it all. I don't want to pack out dead weight and I don't want to scatter food around. I would rather cook and have to cook again or snack lb something else to supplement than have a ton of leftover food.
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Sep 6, 2017 03:36
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I'm the same way. My appetite gets curbed while hiking. I try to eat as much as possible but its hard to force yourself to eat when you're not hungry, I just try to snack small amounts all day long. Also, I'm pretty sure I could eat anything with a tortilla. Peanut butter, hummus, honey, beans and rice, tortilla soup (using the tortilla as an edible spoon/sponge), quesadillas, burritos etc. My go-tos are as follows. Breakfast - instant oatmeal is hard to beat. Its easy, simple to prepare, tastes good and fuels me up for a while. Toss in some raisins or honey for extra umph. Lunch - I rarely eat a meal for lunch, its usually just snacking while hiking. Jerky, granola, trail mix etc. Peanut M&Ms are priceless on the trail. Cliff shot blocks are what I eat when we don't stop moving, they're mostly all sugar but they are easy to eat and taste great. Sometimes I will make peanut butter and raisin tortilla roll ups that I will eat for lunch if I need something substantial. You can always do PB&J as well. We usually bring a log of salami but I can only eat so much salami. Dinner - Tortilla soup (just add water), quesadillas, instant potatoes, rice mixes, mac and cheese, etc are all standard on my trips. I really want to try this buffalo chicken recipe though, that sounds delicious. Morbus posted:-Dehydrated beans + rice and taco seasoning with cheese and fritos (I stole this from Andrew Skurka's blog) Stealing this too. Pour everything into the frito bag and you have yourself a walking taco, just eat it right out of the bag. Pick up some sour cream packets and boy howdy you're in heaven though your tent mate will soon be in hell. Verman fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Sep 7, 2017 |
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Sep 7, 2017 23:47
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From the light end of the spectrum to the heavy. The size of your body and your gear load will probably make a difference as well. I'm only 160lbs and have backpacked with a 50lb pack in trail runners with ease but other people only backpack in trail runners if they carry light loads. It all depends on you and it takes some experience to figure out what works best for you. Personally I feel like the less weight on your feet is more noticeable than less weight in your pack. Trail runners Saucony Peregrine (whatever model they are up to now) these are one of the most popular I see on the trails Brook Cascadia Merell Agility Peak flex (I currently wear the older model All out Peak) Solomon XA pro's seem to be pretty popular as well as the speed cross I almost went with la sportivas but the soles didn't seem very grippy Light duty boots Merrell Moab Mids are crazy popular, probably one of the boots I see most on the trails Salomon X ultra/quest boots are also really popular, the 2nd most popular on the trails keen targhee Backpacking boots Lowa renegade Asolo fugitive Salewa Alp/mountain trainers There's obviously a ton more but it sort of depends on your feet. Certain brands just don't fit certain feet so its worth going into a place with a knowledgable staff and try stuff on. I really enjoy trail runners for most day hikes and warm weather backpacking. I feel lighter, my hips are less sore, and they dry out much faster if they do get wet. They also breathe 10x more than any boots I ever had. The only time I wear boots is if its going to be insanely rough rocky terrain, or if I'm going to be in snow/cold for an extended amount of time. I would be careful with "minimalist" shoes as a lot of them have varying degrees of drop which can take some time to get used to and you will likely have to change your stride to accommodate not walking on your heels. I've heard of people having knee pain and discomfort from unknowingly buying minimalist shoes that were essentially barefoot shoes with no heel padding.
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Sep 18, 2017 00:43
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Picnic Princess posted:Looks like I'm going to have to pick up a bunch of new gear soon as I'm planning on backpacking the Isle of Skye in April and May next year. Spending more time in a place I'm not familiar with means my lovely old gear might not be good enough. I also have to decide whether I get new bigger packs for my husband and I or travel with a third bag that we store somewhere on arrival because we pack some things on the exterior of our packs like foamies when on the trail and I don't trust that they'd survive the flights. When I fly with my backpacking gear, I usually store it in a giant duffel bag just for the flight. That protects the material, straps and buckles from getting caught or damaged somehow and if anything falls out of the pack, its still in the duffel bag. When you land, remove it from the bag and just store the bag somewhere. Some airlines also have those big plastic bags you can wrap your stuff in. Airports usually have those plastic wrap services as well which you could just wrap everything on your bag. The costlier option is getting a bag that fits all your stuff internally.
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Sep 19, 2017 17:02
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Unibrow posted:Just stopping in to pay my respects for this thread and all the posters in it. I'm finally tagging along on the dad & uncles annual week-long hunting trip, and this thread has been a boon for getting my head in the right place while I prep. Where you going and what's everyone hunting? Before I got into hiking and backpacking, that was my exposure to the outdoors. It was my step dad and his buddies and when I got old enough that I wasnt a kid or a burden and actually interested ... they were some of the best times of my life. Our yearly fall hunting trip to the upper peninsula of Michigan in late October are some of my favorite trips. Sleeping in a tent in freezing temps, seeing a bear run across the two track at night. Sitting around the fire hearing wolves howling and running through where I had just been hunting. So many fun times and belly wrenching laughs that we will laugh about until we die. The inside jokes and stories seem to get funnier as time goes on. I eventually moved to Chicago for college and would drive up to meet them for a few years. Then i moved to Seattle and my fall trips stopped happening. Now I hike in the cascades and hunt for pheasants in eastern Washington and its great but it's not entirely the same. Sorry if I'm a little nostalgic but my step dad just headed up on the trip and I get a little bummed every year I can't make it out. You may be a little nervous but enjoy the times while you can. Glad the forum was able to help you out!
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Sep 27, 2017 03:55
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Morbus posted:Does anyone here have a pair of "proper" 10+pt crampons that they can use reasonably well with approach shoes or "mountain" trail runner shoes like la sportiva raptors / akasha or similar? Its not like there are any rules or laws that say when X use Y. General consensus says its possible but probably not the greatest of ideas especially if you don't have much experience with crampons. I have a pair of Grivel G12 crampons but mine are semi automatic because thats what my boots accept (they clip on the heel and loop at the toe). I wouldn't really be able to try them out with my trail runners unless I bought the extra pieces (new rear heel basket and flexi bars). You are certainly inclined to try anything you want but theres generally a a few reasons that you don't see a lot of people with trail runners and real 10-12pt crampons. Most crampons are used with insanely stiff mountaineering boots (usually impossible to flex the sole with your hands). The boot provides the majority of the rigidity and the metal bars in the crampon just keep the thing held together. Even regular hiking and backpacking boots are too flexible for most crampons as-is. Crampon manufacturers usually make flexible bars for use with those types of boots which allows the crampon to flex more without breaking the bars. You would likely need those with trail runners. Comfort could be an issue as well. Most trail runners have very cushy pieces in the shoe from the sole to the sidewalls and upper mesh areas but specifically the toe box. The sole might compress when you tighten the crampon straps. You might be able to feel the plastic toe basket when its tightened over your foot. The rear heel basket might rub above where your shoe stops. Contorting around (mostly on steeper inclines) might cause your toes to hit the front of your shoes and foot to slide around. Trail runners aren't meant to hold you securely at steep angles. Slamming against the toe box is an easy way to lose toenails. Support is something that most mountaineering boots do well, controlling/limiting the side to side movement in your ankle. Trail runners have none of that. Waterproofing, if you need crampons you're likely in snow and you are probably just accepting your feet will be cold and wet in trail runners in the snow but you likely already knew and accepted that. Protection is another issue. Most mountaineering boots are pretty thick and rugged. If you're wearing real crampons and misstep while in some mesh trail runners, it wouldn't take much to put a spike through the side/top of your foot. Crampons are pretty simple devices. If the shoe fits inside, you can tighten the crampon down and lock your foot in securely, it should work to some degree. Just make your you don't get into too steep of country and keep your foot as level as possible. Walking in crampons on a steep angle in low rise trail runners could be a recipe for disaster. Make sure your shoe is tight and your heel is locked in, you would hate to pop out of your shoe and lose it (and the crampon) if you fell somehow. Also, if you're in crampon territory, consider an ice axe/pole and know how to self arrest if the area seems like you could slide. Don't glissade in crampons, thats a good way of breaking a leg. If you slide in crampons, pick your feet up so they dont catch and dig in, catapulting you end over end like a rag doll. I'm doing Mt Olympus next year and planning on approaching in my trail runners and just packing my boots for the ascent. On day trips where I know I'll need crampons, I just wear my boots.
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Oct 17, 2017 17:01
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Morbus posted:Does anyone here have a pair of "proper" 10+pt crampons that they can use reasonably well with approach shoes or "mountain" trail runner shoes like la sportiva raptors / akasha or similar? I didn't see this earlier but approach shoes would probably work better with crampons than trail runners due to the fact that they usually have more structure and a full rubber toe rand which would snug up against the toe basket more securely. Both would still require flexibars with crampons though. Approach shoes - generally flatter sole, less cushy foam in the sole and body, full rubber toe rand, shallower lugs, generally more durable  Trail runners - more rounded sole, usually lots of soft cushy foam, little toe protection, deep lugs, generally less durable  .If you have your trail runners, you can always try going to a store and trying them on with crampons to see how they feel.
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Oct 18, 2017 18:58
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Fyi, Costco has exofficio boxer brief 3 packs for $11. They usually run 15-25 per pair.
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Jan 7, 2018 06:18
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Maybe look at upland bird hunting pants. Might be overkill but they're usually synthetic with cordura knees due to the thick brush commonly encountered whilst bird hunting. They don't run cheap but they should last longer than jeans or hiking pants. Look for synthetics though, there are a lot of cotton and denim upland pants out there. A pair of patagonias that don't look too overbuilt but they're patagucci so they are $$$  A pair of Eddie Bauers that I own and love, but I also paid $60 for them on sale and not the $180 or whatever bullshit they're trying to charge for them. I've been hunting in them for probably 5 years now and they're really comfortable but probably really warm for summer activities. Most bird hunting is fall-winter with lower temps between 20-50ºF. 
Verman fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Jan 17, 2018 |
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Jan 17, 2018 01:03
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Ive also heard that washing wool in vinegar is a great way of softening it up and making it more comfortable, it also does double duty to sanitize your stuff without leaving a stink in it.
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Feb 5, 2018 19:50
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Dukket posted:Are there snowshoe manufactures to stay away from? OR conversely, is there a short list of "only buy" They'll be used in the Great Lakes states, so flat to hilly. Probably just days hikes. If the various sizing charts are correct then I need 30's I like my msr revo ascents but they would be overkill for Midwest type stuff (the heel lifts & full edge crampons etc) but the low weight is really nice, price not so much. Tubbs or atlas seem to be well liked for tubular type snow shoes which are most common and usually the cheapest. In general I would say avoid the cheapest thing you can find on Amazon. Yukon Charlie is what costco used to sell and I've heard a lot of people like those for basic recreational needs.
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Feb 11, 2018 06:38
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Dukket posted:Snowshoeing Also, not sure how much snowshoeing experience you have but a nice pair of leg gaiters will help keep your feet warm and dry. A lot of snow will collect on your boots and around your ankles so without leg gaiters, snow is going to get into the top of your boot and soak your foot. With leg gaiters, not so much. The only time my feet get wet with gaiters is if I step in deep water or if its raining. I prefer knee high goretex gaiters like the Outdoor Research Crocodiles that go well over the calf.
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Feb 12, 2018 19:23
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I'm not a fan of those legs personally. I also don't have a backpacking camp chair but if I did I think I would opt for one with the more traditional pole type legs. Nice thing is that you can buy it and return it if you don't like it.
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Mar 12, 2018 16:50
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Small ziplocks. Use a Sharpie to write what's in the bag. Ace bandage for sprains, or whatever tape you have. A strip of cloth works too. My whole kit fits into a quart sized ziploc bag.
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Mar 19, 2018 15:35
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extra stout posted:How long do you stay in the woods and how many illnesses and injuries do you expect to have? This is pretty much the opposite of first aid. Planning for expectations is terrible advice. 90% of people don't need a high level trauma kit but being prepared for things like sprained ankles, allergic reactions etc is pretty run of the mill of the average hiker. you can usually substitute big bandages with something you have on you (bandana etc). extra stout posted:If any of this actually happened you could wrap an ankle with birch bark to soak up the blood and a more firm row of hickory bark to function as a brace, use some shoelaces or fishing line to tie both wraps tight, chew on some willow bark for salicin and mild pain relief Seeing as rolled/sprained ankles tend to be one of the more common injuries in the woods, an ace bandage isn't the worst thing in the world to carry and a whole lot easier/faster to apply than sourcing a bunch of bark that may or may not exist in your area. I don't carry one personally but you could use a bandana, shirt, or any other piece of clothing as a substitute. extra stout posted:Skip the benadryl and find some marsh mallow, I'm sure there are plenty other histamine blockers in plants but that's the only one I recall off the top of my head This is dumb. I'm not trying to be a jerk but telling someone to forego a few pills of benadryl and to instead scavenge around for a specific plant while they are experiencing an allergic reaction/attack is batshit. I don't have allergies and I carry a few benadryl because who knows what my body might decide to get allergic to and being out in remote places sucks when you are uncomfortable, can't breathe well or see clearly. Also, who knows what you might get stung by. poo poo happens and benadryl is a good thing to have just in case. It takes up literally zero room in your kit and is worth its weight in gold if you need it. People's bodies change over time and develop new allergies and reactions that you may have never experienced before. You might be with a friend who has a severe allergy they don't know about. We get it, you know more about plants than the average person. Thats cool. But passing off your expertise of medicinal plants isn't useful to the average person as practical advice.
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Mar 19, 2018 21:39
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extra stout posted:Yes, Loucks is correct. I was just agreeing with the earlier reply that he's overthinking a bit, and while all of my advice was backed by at least some scientific evidence and somewhat useful, I do not expect anyone (including myself) to trust their identification skills especially while injured in the woods Went right over my head. Sorry my man. I thought you were genuinely giving out poo poo advice which can be common in the hardcore internet bushcraft realm where everyone thinks they're a hardcore survivalist because they watched every episode of Dual Survival and own a mora knife. I
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Mar 21, 2018 20:08
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Scratch Monkey posted:I'm trying to figure out what boots these are. Does anyone recognize the brand? They look like duty/military/tactical boots due to the nylon up along the high ankle area. What throws me off is the eyelet hardware which isn't standard for a lot of bots along those lines. It looks reminiscent of Danner traditional hiking boots but the logo throws me off. The only black diamond logo I know of like that is from Condor tactical but they dont really specialize in footwear. Some context might help though, where is this photo from and are you looking for these boots for a specific reason? 
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Apr 5, 2018 00:13
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