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A largely rustless S30? You should buy a lottery ticket imo.
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Jun 13, 2017 16:44
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Waffle House posted:A largely rustless S30? You should buy a lottery ticket imo. It has three spots that will need some love, around the read deck lock (don't think it has gone through but haven't tried to put a mallet through it either), a 4 x 4 inch hole on drivers lower quarter panel, and surface rust in front of passenger rear quarter panel. I feel pretty lucky, but am withholding judgement until I get the sound deadening off to really see what is going on.
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Jun 13, 2017 21:33
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Dry ice and a hammer unless the alcohol is used to distribute the cold? Have fun with the wavy gravy poo poo on the trans tunnel... edit: ... well gently caress me, guess bug and tar remover might work on the trans tunnel and underbody. extreme_accordion fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Jun 15, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 23:50
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All the talking heads on YouTube say the alcohol turns it into a slurry that can be spreadable. Its not as cold but cold enough. Anyways we shall see.
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Jun 15, 2017 06:42
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Just don't be like me and forget that worklamps are hot and alcohol is flammable.
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Jun 15, 2017 08:50
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So had some time over the weekend to keep digging into the Z, and the motor arrived! Pure JDMness in person. My buddy couldn't get his crane in time so I bribed five people with beer and slow cooked ribs to lift it out of the truck. Wasn't as heavy as i thought it would be. I did not take a picture of the oil pan but its from an AWD platform, and this motor came with an automatic from the factory (evidenced by the flex plate).  Its hard to see but the stamp says rb25 (so I at least know its the right engine). I don't have access to Nissan FAST so I can't check the serial number.  Probably just a maintenance sticker but still cool as hell.  This plug ( I believe its the intake vvt) along with the correct style fan blades, timing cover, and lack of igniter pack are convincing me that the seller wasn't BS and it actually is a gen 2. Having had a chance to look at the stuff if you need to get a jap motor or parts Venus Automotive seems really legit the motor was about 500$ less than anywhere else and their other stuff is on the cheaper side as well. Now on to the Z. My old man came down to oogle the Z and we decided to pull out the dash (since its difficult to do solo):  Out with the center console. The bleaching on the carpet is weird , maybe this was a California or Arizona car before it came to the northwest?  Cowl came off , just cause. Alot of surface rust, but still nothing eating the whole way through.  Dash out, this took longer than I would like to admit (2 hours). Someone has been into the dash before and it wasn't Nissan. There was a lovely splice on the ign to starter solenoid so someone was trying to pull 12v to something but haven't looked yet. The blue painters tape is my way of knowing where each plug goes for reassembly. I got ahold of someone at Collins adapters, he was one of the engineers and i talked to him for a while about what transmissions I could make fit with that adapter. I can use the cd009 from 2005-2006 350z's, any of the JK series transmission (07-09 350z, 09-10 370z), or any of the 1EA0's (from the 2012-Current 370z). The cd009 has a throwout fork and external slave, the jk and 1ea have internal slaves/thrwout combo. There are kits to make the stock lovely internal unit much stronger so thats a plus. The internet talking heads cant seem to come up with really good answers as to what changed from the cd009 to the jk to the 1ea0. For the upcoming longish weekend, get the rest of the big interior bits out of the car, have my friend find his engine hoist, get the old sound deadening out of the car, by a transmission. Sorry I cant post here more often, and if there is anything I can do better let me know.
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Jun 26, 2017 16:43
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Have you pulled the old L28 yet? If you do, clean up the top of the cross member. There should be a "Z" stamped in the middle of it. Sort of a car Easter-egg.
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Jun 26, 2017 19:20
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:
That looks like the timing belt sticker. Either it was changed at 100k KM, or it was due at 100k KM. Either way, best be changing it before you stick it in a car. Lord of Garbagemen posted:
Yeah that's definitely a series 2, Bonus! I'd check the coil packs out because they have the same issue as the 1JZ where the valley between the valve covers gets hot as hell and they crack, but apart from that these are pretty drat bulletproof engines. They love to rev and ping off the limiter which is why they're immensely popular with drifters over here in Aus. If it's run stock boost in a Stagea all it's life, it'll likely just need a refresh, (maybe do rear main seal and timing belt) and you should be good to go until those turbo seals wear out.
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Jun 27, 2017 01:17
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I think it's to the tune of "Please change at 100k"
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Jun 27, 2017 03:41
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Don Dongington posted:That looks like the timing belt sticker. Either it was changed at 100k KM, or it was due at 100k KM. Either way, best be changing it before you stick it in a car. Its getting a tear down for at a minimum all the maintenance items (head gasket included) and address some of the oiling issues . I have been trying to decide if I will build it up, mostly cause I don't know and can't get a good answer as to what the factory internals are good for. The coils look good but I might just convert to GM ls2/lq9 coil packs.
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Jun 27, 2017 23:18
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Its getting a tear down for at a minimum all the maintenance items (head gasket included) and address some of the oiling issues . I have been trying to decide if I will build it up, mostly cause I don't know and can't get a good answer as to what the factory internals are good for. The coils look good but I might just convert to GM ls2/lq9 coil packs. TIL: https://www.powerhouseracing.com/product/4858/phr-billet-lq9-coil-brackets-for-2jzgte-1jzgte loving noted for my build, thank you for this.
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Jun 28, 2017 15:36
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Waffle House posted:TIL: http://www.mojoperf.com/?q=node/3 , This guys stuff is highly lauded in the RB community. I think he started the trend and everyone else has followed suit. Oh ya its way cheaper and more durable, the only thing you have to watch for is superseded parts. I talked with the guy at Mojo and he says they went cheap on the coils after a certain supercesion , you want the old coils not the new ones. Also, you will have to change the dwell time for the new coils, the overall consensus is less time compared to factory.
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Jun 28, 2017 16:01
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Its getting a tear down for at a minimum all the maintenance items (head gasket included) and address some of the oiling issues . I have been trying to decide if I will build it up, mostly cause I don't know and can't get a good answer as to what the factory internals are good for. The coils look good but I might just convert to GM ls2/lq9 coil packs. Yeah upgrade the coils if at all possible. The SR guys use Yaris coils, not sure if they're good for RBs. Honestly I wouldn't take the head off unless it's a known BHG, or you're doing a serious build and want to go an MLS gasket. Bottom ends aren't as solid as a JZ, but should be good for 3-400 crank HP, especially if you're going E85. In a Z that's pretty drat good. Of course if you want a 1/4 mile monster, by all means build it.
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Jul 4, 2017 04:50
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With RBs I used to grab aftermarket coils that were called Yellow Jackets. With Nissan starting parts manufacturing again I would just grab OEM ones now since the reason for getting new ones was just because the original ones are getting old. http://yellowjackets.com.au/ Alternatives are Splitfires which I believe are japanese.
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Jul 4, 2017 12:04
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Lame rear end update: That thing happened, should be here end of august or so. Going to forgo the 350/370 six speed for now. I can catch a pretty penny if i decide to sell the five speed. But for now I want to try for a good baseline. I will update Sunday or Monday. I am pulling the engine and transmission this weekend. Additionally, I have continued stripping it down. It is almost ready for media blasting. More later. I will wait to give any recommendations on the website till I see the transmission, but they assured me they only deal with bnib parts so the trans should be mint.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:47
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At least in 'Murica, the CD009s are <$1k. And you don't have to order another from Japan.  Maybe the other conversion parts make it less of a good idea though?I have a CD008 in my 04 G35 and it's a decent trans from a feel perspective at least. Wish 6th was a little taller though.
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Jul 10, 2017 19:29
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Larrymer posted:At least in 'Murica, the CD009s are <$1k. And you don't have to order another from Japan. A JK41A or 1A#### (the later [in some opinion] better versions of the cd009) from the 370 and 370HR are about $1,000. The conversion kit is another 900 ( bellhousing plate, slave cylinder plate). A better internal slave is about 600. The price isn't the big worry, its that I have some trepidation about so many moving pieces to begin with (never taken a car down this far, all foreign engine and parts, new to the nissan world,etc). So to begin with I think its easier just to work with the transmission that came with the car then after its all sorted and good, move to a six speed if I so desire. Another option for around the same cost is sending it off to Andrewtech and having custom gear ratios, stronger gears/shift forks, and synchros put in. They quoted about 3,500 so that is an option down the road. edit: also i can fit a 200sx speedo gear on this if I choose to keep my speedo working that way.
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Jul 10, 2017 21:02
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In fairness... I mean the 6 speeds end up with nice tight ratios, but an RB25DET should have enough of a nice broad powerband where it's not that necessary. I mean, unless you go gonzo on the upgrades.
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Jul 10, 2017 21:29
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Work were done: The garage got an update: Before  After  Got a sweet deal on 5k lumen led shop lights so bought and hung six of them above the car. The contrast is much more stark than these pictures show, i think my phone was trying to compensate on the low lighting in the first pic. They were 150$ for six sets , if you are interested I can post the brand and all that or something. Now for another advertisement:  This poo poo is gold, spray on and 2 minutes later comes out easy, it works every single time. Now on to work:     On Saturday engine and trans was pulled. Started at 10 am and had it out by 3pm. I elected not to cut anything so the harness is still fully intact, probably going to post it on hybridz and craigslist for free to whoever wants it (if you are in the PNW). Offer stands to any goons as well. It ran but the mileage is unknown. Still haven't found any serious rust, a tiny bit on that drivers side engine compartment. I think it has no rust because this used to be an Arizona car. I found a parts receipt under the carpeting from a dealership in Arizona. I originally thought So. Cal. but Arizona makes more sense as the salt water in the air probably would have done more damage then what I am seeing on this car. The l28 is huge (35 inches long) the RB is only 29 inches and the mounts are way farther forward than on the L28. This RB is going to shift weight way back which will be interesting, as without the engine I could lift the front of the car up. Doors came off and pass fender, the car was in an accident at some point on the drivers side. I am assuming this because of the horrible job someone did to put back the regulator/motor/door components. There is also a bit of over spray on the door jamb. I don't see any obvious major repair to the frame rails or impact markings on the floor pans but I wonder if I should have the chassis checked for straightness before it gets sand blasted? Any thoughts? I have no experience with this kind of stuff. Im still working on getting the wiring out of the car, and have more interior to remove, here is the progress so far:  Excuse all the painters tape, its how I am marking where the plugs go and the other stuff. Transmission comes in today will be a small post tomorrow covering it.
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Jul 17, 2017 16:10
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I would at least try and sell it for a couple hundred bucks to help fund your project. You generous goon. 
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Jul 17, 2017 16:36
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The old Z's have pretty much been my dream car since I first saw one roll up in my hometown. I live in Europe by the way, so you can imagine this was a pretty rare experience. Loved them ever since. How much documentation is there on these cars? How hard is it to work on them for someone who doesn't have much experience to work on them? I've always dreamed of owning one for myself one day, but it'll have to be in good running condition or I'm afraid it'll be hopeless. These things are expensive here though, they'll easily run over 23.000 eurobucks unless you get a rusty California import.
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Jul 18, 2017 13:27
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Roeben posted:The old Z's have pretty much been my dream car since I first saw one roll up in my hometown. I live in Europe by the way, so you can imagine this was a pretty rare experience. Hands down, the S30 Zed-car is one of the most well-loved and documented vehicles on the planet. Third party aftermarket is widely available, as are modernization solutions. FRP Automotive, seemingly defunct except for on Facebook, still makes Fiberglass replacement bodies, I believe. Here's some of the many enthusiast forums: http://hybridz.org/ http://www.viczcar.com/ http://www.zcar.com/ http://www.zhome.com/ http://www.nicoclub.com/ http://community.ratsun.net/
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Jul 18, 2017 17:29
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Transmission came on Monday. Looks like a new transmission. The only strange thing is it shipped with gear oil in it, without a prop shaft there was no seal in the rear and the oil got everywhere. My garage stinks with that horrible gear oil stench. The fed ex guy marked it as damaged, so I have got to inspect it tonight and look for any cracks, will be tough without any dye but going to give it my best.
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Jul 20, 2017 17:35
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It probably had a plug for the output which fell out. Why they would ship it wet in the first place 
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Jul 20, 2017 19:18
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slidebite posted:It probably had a plug for the output which fell out. Why they would ship it wet in the first place My 1JZ pullout was shipped wet. Japanese oil and gasoline smell different.
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Jul 20, 2017 19:39
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Waffle House posted:My 1JZ pullout was shipped wet. Japanese oil and gasoline smell different. Same with my 1UZFE
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Jul 20, 2017 19:46
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Those trans were brand new and shipped with fluid? If they were it will make me feel better about mine truly being bnib.
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Jul 20, 2017 20:33
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Weak update so it doesn't get archived: More poo poo removed from car. Fabbing up a rotisserie bracket to mount to the bumper struts. To hot to work in garage lately, more later.
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Aug 8, 2017 15:49
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Chemistry Update!!!! But first cool car spotting: Saw this gangster hiace or liteace while camping:    Now on to Z stuff. The cage is scheduled to be dropped off Middle of September , so I had to remove all the prior sound deadening in order to keep costs down for the fabricator. A couple of hours on the inter webs left me with the option to use a heat gun or use dry ice and isopropyl alcohol. The first sounded like poo poo so the second option it is.  This is after some experimentation on the first section, we laid the blocks down bare in the middle. It eventually froze the material but took a while. The slurry on the outside is mixed with the alcohol. It speeds up the process and freezing alot, but it also evaporated the dry ice alot faster. Usually it only needed to sit on the material for about 2 minutes using this method.  Just a shot that was much cooler in person. The camera didn't seem to catch the insane amount of fog that was coming out of the drain plug hole.  Bag of the poo poo ready to get thrown out.  My dad helping out with the drivers side while I was doing the passenger. Behind the pedals and up the trans tunnel was tough.  Completed drives side, don't see any damage or warping. The rust spot by the drain hole was only surface rust, couldn't jam a screwdriver through the spot. Likely it will just get cleaned up in the media blasting.  Passenger side, my trans tunnel was more difficult as they are not symmetrical shapes on either side. The foam on the firewall will get removed with media blasting. Only surface rust around drain hole. I have ordered the parts to put the engine and trans together, I will likely have an update in two weeks or so for that. Also, another update for the cage thats getting installed. I also bought two kei trucks.
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Sep 5, 2017 22:13
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intact floors... nice.
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Sep 11, 2017 15:06
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I would like to know more about the kei trucks please. Also your floors look great for a Z.
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Sep 11, 2017 15:40
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Yeah those pans look great. Have you looked at the rear deck/hatch area yet? I know on the ZXs they liked to collect water from around the tail lights, not sure if the older Zs had that problem too.
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Sep 11, 2017 16:48
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extreme_accordion posted:intact floors... nice. Ya I have gotten lucky. My dad said this one looks better after 40 years then his did brand new after 5 years. Slung Blade posted:I would like to know more about the kei trucks please. I bought a 91' Suzuki Carry 4wd (w/ diff lock)    And a 91 Hijet Climber (4wd with diff lock)     We are bringing them over to resell, both are going to get their beds sanded down to metal and bed liner sprayed on (got a friend who does it professionally, will do cheap sprays with no warranty and we do all the prep). They both had their tires replaced at the port. Going to get a good wash and interior cleaning. Alot of little fixes (stuff I can do for free or super cheap). I think my buddy and I are going to list them for 4,000 each and settle for 3,600-3,700. I might end up keeping one though because kei truck. Since we have a thread for importing , I will keep all the info about them and this stupid adventure in there from now on. slidebite posted:Yeah those pans look great. Have you looked at the rear deck/hatch area yet? I know on the ZXs they liked to collect water from around the tail lights, not sure if the older Zs had that problem too. The rear hatch seal was leaking (standing water was present in the spare tire well, but no rust not even fading of the factory first coat. A little bit of surface rust where the taillight seals met the metal but it will come off with media blasting easily. I can not say this enough, buy all your cars from New Mexico, Arizona, West Texas. You will have jacked up dashboards but literally zero tin worm.
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Sep 11, 2017 17:06
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The Z went on an adventure today:    It is getting dropped off for a cage to be installed. Since this wont need to conform to any rule books he is going to get creative on the door sills, and the dash bar. He said he should be done in two or three weeks. So After that there will be a flurry of posts as it goes into media blasting right after that, then body and paint work.
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Sep 24, 2017 03:38
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What are your plans for the car? I don't get why you wouldn't put in a confirming cage.
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Sep 24, 2017 04:21
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Larrymer posted:What are your plans for the car? I don't get why you wouldn't put in a confirming cage. Agree, and it could hurt resale if you sell it later on.
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Sep 24, 2017 04:36
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Larrymer posted:What are your plans for the car? I don't get why you wouldn't put in a confirming cage. N+1 The rules are pretty open provided you're not converting to a tube frame style setup. Usually just minimum tube size, minimum base plate size, and number of points of contact. They're pretty good guidelines for what's needed by weight to be effective. Got a rough sketch of the cage you're about to get?
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Sep 24, 2017 04:49
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The main hoop, Halo,rear strut bars, harness bar, and a pillar Bars are all conforming. However, this is never going to be a race car, so I don't want to have to deal with the sill bars that make getting into and out of a hassle. I mostly just need the cage for chassis reinforcement, alot of the Z guys say that around 350 ft lbs certain spots on the Z will twist and pop welds/crack paint. The cage eliminates that by tying more points together. This is just a fast street/ open track day car, not a race car. http://www.jegs.com/p/Jegster/Jegster-Datsun-Roll-Bar-Cage-Kits/753931/10002/-1 Remove the door bars and replace with one down low, remove the dash bar, and remove the brace bars in front.Thats just for reference, the guy is building his own.
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Sep 24, 2017 05:14
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Eek, cages in street cars are a touchy subject. I personally wouldn't but I'm not going to get into that. Why not just do a roll bar for a street car? They can bolt in and out usually and are probably less dangerous for a street car.
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Sep 24, 2017 13:56
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Car isn't ded, just waiting to get back from fabricator.
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Oct 20, 2017 16:54
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