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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Of course it will be built to accomodate such things, the walls won't be solid but louvered to allow full ventilation, as well as a nice amount of air space.

From all the people I've talked to it will significantly help reduce the need for defrosting and preserve the heat pump from the elements.

I'm thinking about my shed, next spring or summer I will probably cast a slab in it. But I'd like to consider the options for working on cars right now. I would like to be able to work under the car without having to lie on my back. But I can't see a 1,2 or 4 pilar lift as a realistic alternative in the small space. So I am thinking dig a pit and have it cast in the same time as the slab, or a scissorlift that can be flush with the floor.

I think a pit would be better but would require a lot of digging inside the structure.

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Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

His Divine Shadow posted:

Of course it will be built to accomodate such things, the walls won't be solid but louvered to allow full ventilation, as well as a nice amount of air space.

From all the people I've talked to it will significantly help reduce the need for defrosting and preserve the heat pump from the elements.


Preserving the heat pump from the elements isn't a bad idea in itself. A roof will do most of the work here. Whoever told you that an enclosure will help with evaporator icing is wrong though. This can not be accomplished in any way without seriously sabotaging the efficiency or letting the pump source heat from something other than outside air. If you make louvres that are super airy in a well designed enclosure the performance hit they cause might not be super obvious or even noticeable at all but trust me on this: your heat pump will work better sitting naked as it does right now than it will inside any type of structure you can come up with.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Yeah, a heat pump condenser in a box will just freeze the box.

His Divine Shadow posted:

I'm thinking about my shed, next spring or summer I will probably cast a slab in it. But I'd like to consider the options for working on cars right now. I would like to be able to work under the car without having to lie on my back. But I can't see a 1,2 or 4 pilar lift as a realistic alternative in the small space. So I am thinking dig a pit and have it cast in the same time as the slab, or a scissorlift that can be flush with the floor.

What about a Max Jax? You can unbolt the posts from the floor and they have wheels to move out of the way.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

That or a QuickJack. These are maybe lo-fi solutions in comparison, but would almost assuredly be more budget-friendly.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Aug 19, 2022

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
The quick jack seems a lot like a scissor lift to me though, but cheaper.

Just watched the max jax video, sure looks interesting, basically two pillar lifts with wheels.

Both seem worth thinking about for sure.

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

The biggest obstacle with a MaxJack is the required ceiling height. It’s basically all that stopped me from ordering one.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





To me, a lack of ceiling height is why I want one over a typical two-post lift, and they seem like they'd be able to lift in more situations than a QuickJack.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


The required ceiling height for a MaxJax is under 7.5 feet - 89.5” when at full lift of 48”. Obviously vehicle heights would dictate how high you could actually go but that’s the max column height.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
7.5 feet is 230cm and most garages here have a height of 250cm or 8.2 feet. So I could for instance put a p air of maxjax in the heated garage even.

I've been wondering this weekend about my new space which is a square of 4700x4700 mm (15.4ft) (might barely be able to get a full size car in there and close the door). If I should move all my woodworking equipment into that area. Since the area where it is now is narrower but longer, but not by a lot, measured and I'd have like 5300 mm (17.3ft) instead there unless I did some remodelling.. So I'm not sure it would be worth the massive pain in the rear end of moving heavy cast iron machines from one place to another. And the other space would be unheated. Thinking it's not worth it.

gvibes
Jan 18, 2010

Leading us to the promised land (i.e., one tournament win in five years)
Gonna get my garage door rails raised to 11 ft tomorrow. This opens up many opportunities for overpriced stupid poo poo for me to do.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



I painted some flakeboard cabinets I had in my garage tonight using some leftover paint from my basement.


Although i realized an hour ago I painted my cabinets in Dallas cowboys colors so gently caress. But I’m happy with it anyway.

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
Finally had it put up after sitting on the floor for a year. Now time to put stuff on it!

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



Yes barn lift is the best lift.

Mine has had my broke rear end quad wheeler on it for like 6 months. It's never coming off (until it's oil change season again).

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Just rearranged my under-house garage to be able to fit a third car for winter storage.

I put the S2000 on wheel dollies and maneuvered it around the extremely inconvenient post in the middle of the garage. The DR350 went in the corner of the workbench area. There’s still room to walk around the S2K and grab loose wheels, etc.





Then I put the plastic floor tiles back and brought in the pair of Si’s and the KTM.




There’s still room to walk around everything and access the water shutoff, water softener, and all the winter equipment (boots/shovels) by the oil tank.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


His Divine Shadow posted:

Of course it will be built to accomodate such things, the walls won't be solid but louvered to allow full ventilation, as well as a nice amount of air space.

From all the people I've talked to it will significantly help reduce the need for defrosting and preserve the heat pump from the elements.




As a guy who works on HVAC for a living, putting your condenser in an enclosure is a terrible idea and will only serve to make any future service work much more difficult on it.

If you're having issues with icing or defrost you have a mechanical problem.

A roof over it I'd about as far as I'd go. If you're really concerned about snow/wind/etc, Mitsubishi makes a variety of kits that include snow and wind baffles that can be fit over the condenser to help with those issues.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I’ve got a pretty large garage (25x40’ or so). It has no insulation, rather high ceilings, and like 3 hilariously insufficient electric baseboard heaters. I’d love to make it a nicer place to be to work on stuff during the winter.



I do not have gas run to it currently.

Are there any reasonable unit heater options that might work well enough to keep me warm while working in there? Mostly under the loft to the right, or where the photo was taken from, or on whatever car is on the lift.

What would be decent options if I wanted to start insulating if? Is it not worth doing unless I do everything or could I gradually start doing things piecemeal and start to see benefits before it’s totally done up?

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

For heat, I'd use a minisplit. You'd need a reasonably large unit for that space, though. If you're handy, there are Mr. Cool self install kits.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

That seems like it’d be great long term if I also insulated and buttoned it up more to keep at a reasonable temp. For how much time I spend in there though, that might take a real long time to pay off vs something cheaper like a bolt in unit heater? Would something along these lines be reasonable to just keep the working areas warm while I’m in there a few hours a week?

https://a.co/d/5HNpQME

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
if you want to feel warm while working, an IR heater pointed at your face and other exposed skin is the cheapest way to feel warm without warming all the air.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

I have a similar space but the roof is insulated, that makes a huge difference and is where I’d start.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
That was going to be my first suggestion. Insulate the roof and keep most of whatever heat you do generate. Any time I recall family/friends with buildings like that, they usually either had a huge heater on the ceiling or one of those rolling jet heaters in the rough area they were working in.

If you do insulate/add heat, you might want to add some fans that you can change the direction on so that all your heat isn't immediately getting trapped up high in the ceiling.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Thanks, yeah I'm leaning more and more towards at least trying to throw up some insulation into the ceiling. Need to get a bigger ladder...

Going off maybe a bit out of the AI topic here but wondering if literally just putting paper faced fiberglass batts in there is reasonable or if I'd need to also start worrying about rafter ventilation, vapor barriers, putting up dry wall over it, etc, which would make it a much bigger project.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

My place’s paper insulation has kinda gone to poo poo over the last 15-20 years but still holding up ok.

Rectal Placenta
Feb 25, 2011

Steve French posted:

What would be decent options if I wanted to start insulating if? Is it not worth doing unless I do everything or could I gradually start doing things piecemeal and start to see benefits before it’s totally done up?

I have a detached garage with a pellet stove and insulated walls and ceiling and it works pretty well during winter. I did put baffles and ridge vents in for venting mostly for the summer, because the air space became a furnace without them.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
It's nice and open, so besides needing a bigger ladder, paper faced fiberglass insulation will be easy to put in and make a huge difference. And honestly, if you're working in there and have some baseboard heaters anyway, I'd start with insulating, and see how much more you need after.

I put a Mr Cool in my standard 2 car attached and basically just set it to keep it warmed to 60 when it goes down to 55, and cooled to 80 when it goes to 85. It's a sheetrock ceiling that wasn't insulated, and insulating it (from the attic, so glad I had access up there) made a huge difference in how much it runs.

intheflesh
Nov 4, 2008
Didn't see a tool thread, so I figured this thread would be the next best thing.

My 5 year old Husky Air Compressor decided it makes sparks instead of compressed air so its time for a new one. I don't want to throw away money at another entry level unit, and I'm not made of money so a $2500 semi-pro is out of the question. Is there anything that exists in the mid-range? Some brand I'm forgetting? Looking for a 20-gallon capable of running basic auto tools (ratchet, impact, cutting wheel, nothing that requires crazy CFM) and occasionally a paint gun which wants 5CFM@40psi IIRC. Looking to keep it under $750
Are stationary compressors any better? Is seems like they just jump in price without much noticeable increase in specs

I inherited an ancient 60 gallon Craftsman unit with ghetto modifications my uncle and father both did to it, but we had it permanently installed at my brother-in-law's shop a few years ago so that's out unfortunately.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3384038

Is the tool thread.

They love talking about compressors.

intheflesh
Nov 4, 2008
Whoop, completely forgot that subforum includes house stuff

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


AI tool thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2788369

afen
Sep 23, 2003

nemo saltat sobrius
I finally got to use my lathe for something! Made some adapters to fit Brembos on the S6:




Got a massive 315mm chuck for a song, now I just need an adapter plate:


And I gave the old chuck a good clean and polish. Before:


After:


It looks like this chuck once was used for welding, so it's pretty beat up, but at least it's not rusty anymore!

boxen
Feb 20, 2011

intheflesh posted:

Didn't see a tool thread, so I figured this thread would be the next best thing.

My 5 year old Husky Air Compressor decided it makes sparks instead of compressed air so its time for a new one. I don't want to throw away money at another entry level unit, and I'm not made of money so a $2500 semi-pro is out of the question. Is there anything that exists in the mid-range? Some brand I'm forgetting? Looking for a 20-gallon capable of running basic auto tools (ratchet, impact, cutting wheel, nothing that requires crazy CFM) and occasionally a paint gun which wants 5CFM@40psi IIRC. Looking to keep it under $750
Are stationary compressors any better? Is seems like they just jump in price without much noticeable increase in specs


Would it be a stupid idea to keep the tank part and swap the compressor?

intheflesh
Nov 4, 2008

boxen posted:

Would it be a stupid idea to keep the tank part and swap the compressor?

I looked into it, and found that the cost of the tank is a pittance compared to the compressor, so I'll just get a whole new thing. Like a compressor was ~500 and a whole unit with that same compressor was ~600. Sold the tank to a guy who was going to take the compressor off and use his gigantic shop compressor to fill this tank and use it as portable. Seems like a bunch of work verses just buying some long rear end hoses but whatever its his dumb project now

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Powershift posted:

e: I completely misunderestimated how many furring strips i needed, and how far this pegboard would go. It's only going to be like 10/30 boards for the whole wall. I'm probably going to reconfigure my cabinets and do the whole north wall too.



4 year update on the pegboard project.

I pulled it all down and added a bunch of horizontal reinforcement and then did the final hanging.



I've got to go through and screw the poo poo out of it, then i can get to pegging. Still debating whether to go all the way up to the roof.

The urge to paint it is still there, but i think for now i'll figure out where everything goes on it then in the spring maybe find some vinyl wallpaper on aliexpress and turn it into a gaudy 80s apartment.

Experimenting with the various implements i've got. It turns piles of stuff i've been tripping over repeatedly into neat, organized stacks.



Literally 2.5 drawers of my toolbox in a couple square feet of wall.



I've still got 5 crates of various pegs and a whole cascading mountain of shelves.





afen posted:

After:


It looks like this chuck once was used for welding, so it's pretty beat up, but at least it's not rusty anymore!

That cleaned up pretty nice. Extremely jealous of the heavy lathe.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Some re-arranging in the shop, used to be a woodworking section here, now it's mostly cleared out and the woodworking machines are in another building.


I was able to get a car inside for changing to winter tires which was nice so I didn't have to lie in the snow. But it was tight between the car and the mill so I decided to move the machines towards the rear wall and get more open space in the middle of the floor. That door in the background is never used. I will see how this works out in practice, if it makes access to that corner too cumbersome, have to move some 3 phase outlets to power the mill and lathe now. I could switch around something yet. I want to redo the shop drapes too, very good for keeping the grinding dust and such from getting to the machines and it naturally divides the shop into a warmer and colder area, which is just fine, cheaper heating costs.



I have lots of woodworking tools and stuff still remaining to move out but they will remain for now. I need to fix walls on the other side.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


That's gearing up to be a pretty capable workshop.

I've started loading up the wall. It's going to be the end of me moving poo poo 300 times deciding where it goes.

I've had the parts to do this sitting around for a long time so i finally did it.




Now i can finally junk the stupid beat up folding banquet tables that i hate.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Did something I should have done years ago:



Install was trivial since I have my subpanel right there. Just added a 30a breaker, short run of 10/2 to a new 6-30 receptacle.

Did a test run today, it was 45F out, ran the heater for about 45min and it brought the garage up to 60F. It's a one car garage so the 4800W this puts out should be plenty even when it's colder out.

This will be great for some wintertime wrenching instead of being grumpy I can't ride, I can hang out in the garage without freezing my tits off and work on the bikes.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Speaking of- bikes have taken over my garage, so my car has been sitting outside getting nuked by the sun and weather.

Does anyone have any experience with the HF canopy?

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/automotive-accessories/portable-canopies-garages/10-ft-x-17-ft-portable-car-canopy-62860.html

Any other options in that price range to consider to keep a car out of the elements? If it lasts a few years I'll be happy, just don't want something that's gonna fall apart in 6 months.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



opengl posted:

Speaking of- bikes have taken over my garage, so my car has been sitting outside getting nuked by the sun and weather.

Does anyone have any experience with the HF canopy?

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/automotive-accessories/portable-canopies-garages/10-ft-x-17-ft-portable-car-canopy-62860.html

Any other options in that price range to consider to keep a car out of the elements? If it lasts a few years I'll be happy, just don't want something that's gonna fall apart in 6 months.

I had one, lasted about three years until a massive storm blew it away this spring. The canopy fabric was still in perfect shape but the storm bent some of the thin tube uprights irreparably. I think it would have lasted 10 years in better conditions.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

opengl posted:

Speaking of- bikes have taken over my garage, so my car has been sitting outside getting nuked by the sun and weather.

Does anyone have any experience with the HF canopy?

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/automotive-accessories/portable-canopies-garages/10-ft-x-17-ft-portable-car-canopy-62860.html

Any other options in that price range to consider to keep a car out of the elements? If it lasts a few years I'll be happy, just don't want something that's gonna fall apart in 6 months.

I spent $1600 one a well reviews big rear end garage canopy that was well reviews that lasted a year before the canopy part was torn to shreds despite being properly tied down and all. Worst purchase ever. For $250 I'd be much more inclined to gamble, especially if you can put the canopy where the wind won't get to it too badly.

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ThirstyBuck
Nov 6, 2010

Has anyone tried this slightly less hideous one? I willing to pay a little more if it means my wife and neighbors hate me a lot less.


https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ft-x-20-ft-trucksuv-portable-garage-58741.html

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