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NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


asmasm posted:

Here is my garage. It is about 550 square feet and sits below my living room. It started as a one car but I took out a wall and now its a 1 car + workshop. It's heated on the same hydronic heating loop as the rest of the house, has a wall unit for AC, and fireplace in the winter.

We're hopefully closing on a house with a similar setup at the end of the month. I need to figure out a way to knock out part of the partition wall between the garage and unfinished basement that's at least mostly to code. I don't plan on doing any welding/grinding/painting in the unfinished half but will be using it to store several cars as well as engines/transmissions/etc. Mostly want to make sure fumes aren't going up the stairs into the living room.

I'm pumped to have enough space to store everything inside and space to work

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NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


That's similar to how this one is, there's a small partition that comes down from the ceiling joists a foot maybe then this wall sits underneath it. I'm supposed to be going over there today to to meet with the septic inspector...if he ever calls back and lets us know when he's going to be there. I'll get pictures then, if not Thursday is the regular inspection and I'll be over there for a few hours.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Here's the wall in question, there's around 7.5 feet between the wall and the stairs so plenty of space for cars to roll past. Current plan is make the section between the 2nd stub from the wall to the stud past the steps removable, that's a bit over 6 feet if I remember right. I'd like to avoid leaving it open so either have that section removable (just slide out of the way) or maybe get fancy and hinge it somehow. Have all the dimensions somewhere but not on hand with me.


NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


bennyfactor posted:

Hate to sound like captain obvious here but a set of pre-hung double steel doors would probably be the simplest (and most code-compliant) way to achieve this. Don't know if you have a Menards nearby but they have a set with a nominal opening of 72x80 for under 500 bucks. Any kind of lumberyard is going to have other cheap options like that.

Very much an option I'm looking at, just need to convince the fiance they'll work and aren't that hideous. Being code compliant would be nice and would be a step up since the flimsy cheap as hell door they have on there now is very much not to code and one of the things we're bringing up at final negotiations.


Tossed dimensions in floorplanner, I have space to play with. White are E30 except the bigger one is E28, black blob of pixels is wife's tacoma. Dimensions accurate but placement of doors, stairs and water heater are approx.

NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Jul 8, 2017

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


24 deep with a lift in the 'back' spot would be pretty nice and is what my Dad is looking at doing. 24 wide with a lift on one side shouldn't be too awkward either. We had a 2-post at the shop that was right around 25' wide (about 20' deep) and it wasn't bad at all. Looking at a couple 2-posts total width is 12' or less so unless you had huge shelves taking up side space I think it would work good.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


I've been looking at getting a mid-rise scissor lift like that for the new place for working on things. Other than maybe being tricky for doing driveshaft/exhaust work do you have any complaints?

I looked at the Max Jax but for the height and everything else a less expensive scissor makes more sense and is much easier to store (can put it under the fiance's truck).

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Garage2Roadtrip posted:

Also, epoxy floors are the best. I was prepared and expected to do it to whatever house we bought down here, but the PO had the floor polished, and I've been trying to keep up the finish. It makes cleaning up oil super easy.

In the middle of reading through threads on Garage Journal but those that have epoxied floors what did you go with and how did you like it? I'm headed to the new house tomorrow afternoon (hopefully) to see if the floors are sealed or not which will somewhat influence my decision. Dad went with the Rustoleum Pro epoxy in both garages and has been very happy with it. He had to rent a grinder for the attached garage since it was sealed but he said even that wasn't too bad. Just another thing I'd like to do before we move in and start filling it with stuff.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Sticky tires and lifting is a big concern of mine but Dad hasn't had any issues with fairly sticky tires (Dunlop Star Spec ZII) lifting even in the heat of WI summer after a hard drive. But WI summer is a lot different than TN summer.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


n0tqu1tesane posted:

The previous owner of my house painted the carport floor with this stuff, and it's coming up underneath the tires.

I'm tempted to try a different coating, but getting what's on there off first would be a major pain.

Dad made sure to point out that I wanted to avoid that stuff and use the Rustoleum Pro floor coating package. Garage journal says the same thing, the regular is junk but the pro is good. With how weak that stuff is you might be able to get by with a paint stripper or something.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Curious what people did for lighting in their shops and garages. We'll be moving into the new place this weekend and one of my first garage projects will be lighting. Right now the garage (22x27 deep) has one light bulb plus the lights on the garage door opener...not nearly enough. One side will be used for wife to park so not a ton of light needed there but other side will be for working on stuff as well as tool box and work bench.

The unfinished basement is 24x31 deep and will be primarily used for storage, also lit by a single bulb right now. Not sure how much light I actually need back here since it'll be 95% storing cars and spares but one bulb is not going to cut it.


Some good reading in these threads:
best light fixtures - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278420
lighting layout - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=289441

Another tool to play around with - http://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/default.aspx?id=14782

NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Aug 16, 2017

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Garage2Roadtrip posted:

Only like a hundred more than a traditional one too, not bad. https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-8...ft+mount+opener

I had one of these installed at the old house as well as raising the tracks as close to the ceiling as possible. I loved it and will probably stick one in this house eventually. It's quiet, frees up space and the deadbolt Ohrmazd mentions is a nice feature. I did have to replace my deadbolt a couple years after it was installed because the bolt wouldn't retract due to cracked actuator.

I bought mine on eBay through Open Door Enterprises for $309 shipped after I was quoted $375 if the installer bought it. Here's their current listing - http://www.ebay.com/itm/8500-LiftMa...10AAOSwjMJXCTyA

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


DEUCE SLUICE posted:

Millionth-ing that installing an opener is a piece of cake. I did a belt-drive Chamberlain at the old house we were renting, was a breeze.

Totally going to do the shaft drive at the new house, though! It has a low ceiling and getting rid of the opener would really help.
Look into a high lift kit for the garage tracks. My door tracks went from ~18 inches from the ceiling to about 4. Between that and moving the opener to the wall it freed up a ton of space.


What's everyone doing for shelves? If I ever finish on the house renovation stuff shelves will be the first project for the garage. Not sure if I should build some out of lumber or pick up costco/sams/etc metal shelving. Need to be able to hold a good amount of weight on a couple shelves but can't be too deep. Something cheap for basic junk on her side of the garage will work but I'll be storing transmissions and engine parts on mine.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Made some progress on organization over the weekend, filled two of the four costco shelves we picked up. Will probably rearrange the parts/tools/fluid/misc shelf since it's a mess right now but I was mostly trying to get things off the floor and race car.



Now I've started thinking about wiring which will be the next big project. Have an electrician friend coming over this weekend so I'll run all this by him and hiring him to make sure I don't burn the place down. No picture of the breaker box but it's a 100 amp and is completely full, I plan to add a 100 amp sub-panel directly below it. Two 220v runs (welder and spare) then four 20/30A runs, with each side of the garage getting a outlet and lighting breaker. Outlets mounted at least 4' off floor, had that in last garage and I'll never have low outlets in a garage again.

Construction is cinder block so I'll be surface mounting the outlets, leaning toward 3/4" EMT. Probably 1/2" armored flex cable for the light runs between LED enclosures. Is armored flex overkill for running in the ceiling?

NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Oct 16, 2017

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Rhyno posted:

You said you don't plan to run water to the shop, have you thought about a rain reclamation system? My friend's dad just has his gutters running to a collection barrel which then runs to a tank inside. He doesn't drink it but has it plumbed to a faucet so he can wash oil and whatnot off before going inside the house. I think he just uses iodine tablets to treat the water in the tank.

Grey water system like this is really easy to plumb and works good for outbuildings. Dad did this when he built the detached instead of running water/sewer from the house. Has a priming bulb you step on to provide water and it all drains into a 5 gallon bucket he empties as needed. Super simple and compact setup with two 55-gallon drums, one for water one for sink/bucket.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


NitroSpazzz posted:

Here's the wall in question, there's around 7.5 feet between the wall and the stairs so plenty of space for cars to roll past. Current plan is make the section between the 2nd stub from the wall to the stud past the steps removable, that's a bit over 6 feet if I remember right. I'd like to avoid leaving it open so either have that section removable (just slide out of the way) or maybe get fancy and hinge it somehow. Have all the dimensions somewhere but not on hand with me.




So from a year or so ago we bought this house. An hour after closing I knocked out a 6.5 foot wide chunk of wall, stuck three cars a bunch of poo poo back there then got busy with other crap. Now that renovation is done, new deck is on and all the 'important' stuff is done I'm getting back to the garage. I also didn't take any pictures of it other than snapchat. Yesterday widened the hole to just under 7.5' and cleaned up the drywall a bit. Picked up supplies to build a hinged partition wall on casters to cut down the heat coming up the stairs and look slightly less lovely. I'll work on that this week if work and energy cooperates.

Wiring chat: There's currently one outlet and one light bulb per side, this needs to change. I was curious so I got a couple quotes to install a poo poo load of lights and outlets which came back about twice what I'm willing to pay. Ordering a pallet of 4' flush mount lights and bulbs then I guess I'll start installing and running things. Friend is an electrician and said he's come to final hook up and check my work.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Finally, over the last few weekends, got this taken care of. Opening is 7.5' wide and 8' tall so all the cars fit through with plenty of space. Isn't pretty but it'll do the job. Ignore the absolute disaster that is the rest of the garage.






Need to trim shims and finish the trim then clean up the screws and give it a coat of paint at some point. Need to figure out some latches that'll pull things tight/together.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


They're probably a bit under spec but just heavy duty ones from home depot. Think they're rated for 90lb a piece or maybe a bit more. They seem to be fine so far and with how little use it'll see I'm not super concerned. I'll keep an eye on them and upgrade if needed.

Casters are rated for 90lb a piece and there's four of those.

NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 22, 2018

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


You can just barely see them in the picture with it open. First design had them evenly spaced on the studs but that was going to be a pain to build, I suck with lumber and woodworking. Second design I stuck them all in the last ~8" of the door evenly spaced and it seems to work pretty nice.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


My ceilings are too low for a real lift so right now I'm looking at the 5k version of https://www.quickjack.com/ Mechanic friend has one and he loves it.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Dad put down rustoleum epoxyshield in both his garages a few years ago and it's held up well. Biggest part seems to be making sure your prep is good and following the directions about cure/set time.

I meant to do it at this place before we moved in but couldn't find the time/funds.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Mr. Powers posted:

Does anyone have tips on how to get a real estate agent to hone in on the homes with usable garage workshop space? When I was doing some recon online I found a few houses that have sizeable detached garages, but they've all disappeared.

Work with your realtor, tell him/her you are not going to look at any houses with less than 3/4/5 car garage or detached garage or whatever you want. If they bring you to something that doesn't meet that requirement don't step foot in the door and tell them to not waste your time. Eventually they'll get a clue, if not fire them and get a better one.

We bought last year, told the realtor no houses with less than 1k sqft garage. She emailed us a couple that were close ~750-850 to see if that would work. We said no so she only showed us houses with garage space. Detached garages are very rare, for what we wanted to spend, down here so we ended up buying something with an unfinished basement and knocking out a chunk of the wall to the garage. In the 6 months we looked only two with detached garages popped up, both houses were garbage.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Redfin.com lets you specify minimum parking spaces and must have garage, it'll get rid of a good chunk of the carport listings.


House chat....more specifically garage smells in house chat. Looking for ideas for reducing the smells that make it upstairs. Spilled a little old gas in the unfinished side of the garage last weekend and even though I immediately cleaned it up and put fans blowing out the air the upstairs still stunk pretty bad. I try to do anything that's likely to cause odors in the garage side with the door wide open but poo poo happens. Jacked up a car with a overfull tank of gas at too much of an angle and it spilled a bit.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


angryrobots posted:

Is the garage space sealed up well? What kind of wall/ceiling covering do you have?
It isn't. Walls are painted block, ceilings are open framing. It's very 'unfinished' in that regard...as well as the lighting/electrical I have yet to find time to install in the back half.

BraveUlysses posted:

previous owner put a new liftmaster garage door opener and it so loving quiet and smooth and even has stupid poo poo like an app so i can open with my phone if i want.
I put a liftmaster wall mount that connects directly to the shaft at the last place. Was stupid quiet and cleared up a ton of space. May do the same here since my ceilings are even lower now.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


My garage is 22 wide by 27 deep. Even with shelves against one wall and a workbench on the other there's an ok amount of room to walk between them. I back in right up against the work bench and wife parks a foot or so from the shelves but we have room to open doors fully between cars.

Would I rather have it 27 wide, definitely. 22 is about the narrowest I think I'd want.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


What's the overhead storage? I've got low ceilings but we're both short so I've considered something like that before.

Have the stuff to hang the motorcycles from the ceiling but haven't bothered yet. Don't worry they're only ~145lb a piece.

Wife works this weekend so I'm going to attempt again to get some progress made in the garage. Not sure if it'll be organizing, cleaning or electrical work.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Mr. Powers posted:

The house I'm putting an offer on doesn't have a spectacular garage but it does have a 1200 sqft unfinished basement. It's also got a sink plumbed in, so a darkroom will most certainly be constructed.

This is what we ended up with after no luck finding big enough or detached garage. Works great other than I have to be mindful of fumes getting upstairs. We've got seven cars inside between the garage and unfinished basement...it's great.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Direct lift has a calculator that should give you an idea - http://www.directlift.com/ceilingCalc.aspx

Mostly depends on how high your cars are, with two of mine I only needed 9.5 ft.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Looking for a way to easily get my formula ford (900-1000lb) on and off the rolling work table. Used my engine lift last time but the legs are high enough it doesn't fit under the car or the table, it was a mess and a pain in the rear end. I have a 1 ton chain hoist I'd like to hang from my garage ceiling if it can be done safely. Garage is basement with kitchen over it, standard 2x4 floor joists.

My idea was span several 5+ joists to spread the load then hang the hoist from that. I may use multiple sections of 2x4 to span even more then use a long 3333lb rated strap to span them and hang the hoist from that. Looking for ideas to not pull the kitchen down on top of me.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


NinjaTech posted:

You could buy or build a mobile gantry hoist. Then you could use it at the track as well. This one looks pretty awesome. http://www.mktechnologies.com/products/mkt/mkt_a-frame.htm Harbor Freight also makes one but it's huge and heavy at over 600lbs.
May weld up a copy of that one or see if I can snag a used one. That's the lift everyone uses and recommends but 2.5k buys a lot of tires and entry fees.


Mr. Powers posted:

What are the good options for garages too low for a lift? I've seen those jack-like things that go under the sides of the car, but I don't know what they're called.
I'll throw in another vote for the QuickJack, I've had it for a few months and it's really quick to setup and use.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


When we rewired my garage we put 2 socket outlets every six feet at four and a half feet off the ground. Near the work benches we put in quad plugs. Stuck in one 220 plug near where the welder sits. I also snagged a 220 power strip with 120v plugs that was being thrown out that is usually plugged into the 220.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Dad sealed his in 2005 with rustoleum professional grade epoxy and it's held up great. He borrowed a massive car hauler from a friend and moved everything from the garage into that for the week or whatever it took.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


I bought from prolighting.com for my garage, think it was the recommend combo at the time.

Maxlite 48" 2 Lamp LED Ready Utility Strip 120-277V LSS2XT8USE4803
GLL 48" 18W LED T8 - 2,664 Lumens - Direct Wire Single End or Opposing End or Ballast Compatible - 5000K - 120-277V GL07103-3M

I put 9 in each side of the garage, front half is 22x27 and it's very nice for working.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Just echoing what Motronic said. A two post lift isn't for storage and will need extra or reinforced concrete poured. A four post lift is great for storage and I think you can get away with a normal concrete pour, or at least less than a two post.

Quick grab from an Atlas two post

quote:

The lift should be located on a relatively level fl oor with 4 in. minimum thickness, 3000-psi concrete slab that has been properly cured. There can be no cracks in the slab within 36 in. of the base plate location, and no seams in the foundation within 6 in. of its location! Remember: any structure is only as strong as the foundation on which it is located!

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


How big of wheels/tires are you guys bitching about lifting here? All my stuff is 13-15" wheels so they're light. I can see worrying about lifting some massive wheels but otherwise wtf?

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


frrtbkr posted:

From Google maps it looks to be about 50/50 ahaha


24' deep too... that's drat near a 12 car garage. Nice find

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!



How do you like that ceiling mounted storage? I've thought about sticking a couple of those in the garage but low (8') ceilings has held me off for now.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Rhyno posted:

When the MS6 exploded on me it was nothing but a huge headache and just reaffirmed that I was done with that poo poo. I'd rather just pay people to fix my poo poo these days.
I'm there with you on for the daily driver but I still like having projects. Old truck usually has something that can use attention, usually not even something that would keep it from driving. Race car always needs something so I can always go down to the basement and tinker with something. It's my stress release and way to get my mind off things. I'd go crazy, and drive my wife crazy, if I didn't have projects.

Spent a couple hours measuring things and playing with layout ideas on floorplanner.com yesterday. Then realized I could solve all my problems by selling the Lola project I've been meaning to sell for six months.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!



My Dad bought one a couple years ago and loves it. Forum user Party Alarm has one as well.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


It feels a little weird working under but once you get used to it it isn't bad. I think Dad's is rated for 6k, the 4k Model 3 has the outward side down a few inches. The 5.5k Yukon felt sketchy as hell on it. He got it because it's mobile and he could store it out of the way most of the time despite having 16 foot ceilings.

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NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


We did insulated doors in TN and it was very worth it. Doors don't seal great and is a project I need to get to but it's still an improvement.

Anyone put a/c in their garage? I don't have any windows otherwise I'd toss in a window unit and call it good. Have a service door we never use that I've considered bracing then chopping a hole for a window unit. Have also looked at the slim units. Would be nice to cool it down a bit and drop the humidity, poor dehumidifier can barely keep up in the summer.

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