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Pryor on Fire posted:I mean there's not really any good angle to view a McMansion from Someone's a sour puss. That's hardly a McMansion and so what if it is? This isn't "Show us your design aesthetic regarding modern residence design," it's Garage/Workshop chat. For me, this thread is tough. I gave up a nice under-house garage like OneOverZero has for a suburban existence. I at least held out for an extra-wide 3 car garage. Even so, I'm always hurting for space. Luckily, shortly after we moved here, Linens & Things closed and I bought their towel aisle. I think it was around $300 and that yielded over 50' of commercial slatwall and 60' of commercial shelving. I've still got a few dozen loose shelves and some shelf framing in my basement. One of the best buys ever. I didn't get a shot of the whole haul, but here's in-process with most of the slatwall up. (This is almost 10 years ago, the garage is much more full and the car is gone.)
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Jun 18, 2017 11:54
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EVERYWHERE 
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Pulling the chat back from the dead. It is unseasonably warm here right now and I took the opportunity yesterday to start digging out my mess of a garage/workspace. I need to make some changes and need advice: 1) Water. I have one spigot centrally located, but it's at the bottom of a wall in the back of 20" deep shelves. This makes it a pain in the rear end to get to. Right now I have a hose coiled on the floor, but it's also right where I park the BMW. So, to use water, I need to back the car out, crouch/kneel down to turn the water on, then get to it. I know it's a first-world inconvenience, but an inconvenience nonetheless. To fix that, I want to go to some kind of hose reel, but haven't thought any further. 2) Light. Right now I have two 4-bulb flourescent fixtures that I updated to LED several years ago (I don't remember whether I bypassed the ballasts or if they used the ballasts). I don't know if they've dimmed or if I am just looking for more, but I'm looking for more. In addition to that, I have one of the Costco 4' 2-tube fixtures attached to each of two garage door openers. To improve that, I want to either replace the bulbs in the 4-bulb fixtures, or upgrade the fixtures themselves. Also, I'd like to upgrade the lighting attached to the openers. I am fully okay with going with stupid-bright commercial fixtures if I can do so economically. No such thing as too much light. Those are the two biggies, what say you, AI?
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Feb 4, 2019 20:15
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cakesmith handyman posted:My garage is cold as poo poo so I never go in it in winter and still have to keep a heater on so the beer/meat fridge/freezer doesn't stop working. I'm going to insulate the roof cavity, should I do the floor (concrete) or walls (block/cavity/brick) next? If I do the floor it'll be 25mm board insulation then 3/4" OSB. The walls would be battens then either plasterboard or OSB, either way I paint them white and screw tools and French cleats everywhere. Walls, for sure.
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Feb 8, 2019 12:48
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Mr. Powers posted:I am currently happy to have room to walk around the project in the garage. I am trying to get this place (condo with 1 car garage under) ready to sell. My hope is to find a place with a nice garage/workshop area. Garages are almost always overlooked in house listings. When I moved, I made sure the realtor knew that I needed at least a 3 bay garage. That eliminated a lot of houses, but at least it was an easily identifiable metric. My brother just bought a house with a 2-car door, but it had about 3 feet extra on one side and 4 feet extra on the other side. That was a super-nice surprise that wasn't anywhere on the listing. My wife thinks that nobody notices garage space and I maintain that our garage will be a selling feature with 16' of floor-to-ceiling 2' deep shelving and 30' of slatwall. She'll see.  Basically, good luck because garages are neglected in real estate listings. Even outbuildings barely get a mention... and I've seen a nice property with 20x30 shops with a lift listed as "nice big outdoor shed" 
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Feb 10, 2019 13:29
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wallaka posted:I have two screw-types and they're not loud. There isn't any drive noise like a chain drive. The loudest noise definitely comes from the rollers. These quieted my doors down a ton. https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Life-R...ge+door+rollers
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Feb 17, 2019 21:36
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Mr. Powers posted:Is there a standard dimension for "car with room to move around it"? Will be a good reference to have when I'm looking at listings. someone earlier said they had asked for 1k sqft, but I guess I have no mental image for size for that. Here's the footprint of my garage. It's a 3 bay with 2 being 20' deep and 1 being 18' deep. I have 2' deep shelves at the back of the 2 bay and a 2' deep workbench at the back of the single. That means I can park something as big as a non-extended Escalade on the 2 bay and it's tight. I can park something as small as an MR2 in the single bay and it's tight. But, I can park anything I want diagonally in the 2 bay and do anything I want. Note that there's no "standard" for garage space. My dad has a 3 bay that is rectangular at 30x23 and, while the extra depth is nice, those missing 2' in width makes it really tight for him when he's got 3 reasonable cars in there, and when he had a Tundra, it was like sardine packing. So yeah, there's really no standard, and unless you are lucky and can find dimensions on your county auditor site or some such, you may be just swinging in the dark.
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Feb 18, 2019 13:28
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Rhyno posted:Best LED shop lights? Still Costco? I, too, have this question. Ideally something that can string together.
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Apr 21, 2019 14:52
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Rhyno posted:I hung my crappy ones up and they're dimmer than the single LED bulbs in the ceiling lights, looked at LED tubes which cost more than LED fixtures on average (for a single tube). I'm running a mix in my garage right now -- I have an older Costco 2-strip light tied to each garage door opener and two 4x4' florescent fixtures retrofitted to LEDs, again, older. They are okay, but a newer setup is going to give me more light and more light is better.
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Apr 21, 2019 15:02
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Okay thread, this is ridiculous. I have a bad habit of not putting tools away when I'm done with a project. That's been taken to an extreme and I've got poo poo from one end of the bench to the other in various depths. That needs to change. My classes end this week, so I've got time to organize this shithole. I've got a great workbench that I built, but you cannot see it through all of the garbage. Time to get cleaning.  At present:
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May 6, 2019 18:59
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:What kind of wall paneling is that? I think something super modular like the slats would be the best solution for me. Commercial slatwall, I posted a picture a while ago in this thread, I love it. You can see the edge of the workbench on the left of the picture below. meatpimp posted:For me, this thread is tough. I gave up a nice under-house garage like OneOverZero has for a suburban existence. I at least held out for an extra-wide 3 car garage. Even so, I'm always hurting for space. Luckily, shortly after we moved here, Linens & Things closed and I bought their towel aisle. I think it was around $300 and that yielded over 50' of commercial slatwall and 60' of commercial shelving. I've still got a few dozen loose shelves and some shelf framing in my basement. One of the best buys ever. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 21:55 on May 6, 2019 |
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May 6, 2019 21:53
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meatpimp posted:Okay thread, this is ridiculous. I have a bad habit of not putting tools away when I'm done with a project. That's been taken to an extreme and I've got poo poo from one end of the bench to the other in various depths. That needs to change. Making progress. I'm also tackling the 16' wall of shelves during the project. Probably 2 days of work done at this point and a random glance doesn't show it looking much different.  
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May 22, 2019 18:23
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Suburban Dad posted:Anything else I should be thinking about or considering right now? Concrete 4" thick should be good for a lift in the future (?), but I'll check on ceiling height since I don't know what the trusses will look like with a "shed" style roof. Honestly a max jack is probably best case scenario at this point I'd guess. Is he handling permits and inspections? Some areas are tight on that, others don't care. I walled up a loft to make a bedroom and I had to give plans, have a rough inspection and a final inspection to keep everything "on the books," all for 2 partition walls, a closet and a couple outlets. Also, spray foam insulation on everything.
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Jul 9, 2019 15:51
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Suburban Dad posted:Yes, they're doing permits and all that as well. Spray foam has comparable R value to fiberglass, in general, but it also performs better as an air barrier, since it's sealing all the nooks and cracks. It's the one thing I really wish I had in a 20 year old house, just for the energy savings and the air sealing. All the little holes and gaps add up, and the spray foam is a 1-stop fix for all the stuffs.
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Jul 9, 2019 16:52
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Suburban Dad posted:So I talked to the architect about the roof and rafters, and it sounds like there won't really need to be a truss/beams going across the ceiling and I can have the roof be the ceiling if I want, or they can make it flat. I'm trying to think of future additional storage and also bonus roof height for lift, etc. so I may go this route and leave it open. Makes it more expensive to insulate (spray foam) if I decide to do that. So many decisions. Worth it. 
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Jul 24, 2019 03:07
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Looks like 2x12 joists, which is definitely heavier than "normal." I'd have no worries with car stuff, though I'd probably put some cross bracing in the middle of each side.
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Aug 17, 2019 13:17
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So since I am redoing a big chunk of our house due to a dishwasher leak, I'm doing a lot of the work myself. I am in the process of taking out some soffits in the kitchen and need to do some cutting. I figured... why would I use my old, beat-up Craftsman circular saw that I cut through the cord in the '90s and wire nutted it back together... when I could just buy a new Milwaukee m18 fuel 6 1/2" circular saw for the cutting.  Edit: poo poo, thought it was the tool thread. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Oct 18, 2019 |
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Oct 18, 2019 22:12
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Motronic posted:Seriously, what a great haul. I can attest to this, my garage consists of the towel aisle of our former local Linens 'n' Things. Fully aluminum channeled slatwall is the solution to all of your storage woes.
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Oct 18, 2019 23:09
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Spray foam insulation in all the voids. And the lighting of a thousand suns.
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Oct 21, 2019 13:11
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Powershift posted:If you need help avoiding an expensive in-ground lift, this might help. #3 and #11 are the same. But seriously, how did you find such a current link?
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Oct 23, 2019 23:32
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cakesmith handyman posted:Don't know of a better place to put this but the guys at work needed better lighting in the workshop so I sorted it. Request for source, price, and pics with them fired up.
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Nov 23, 2019 22:13
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cakesmith handyman posted:A sodding ridiculous amount of light. The specs on those look amazing. I need to source something like that in freedom land.
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Dec 1, 2019 20:04
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Rhyno posted:I want to build a new work bench to replace the cut up doors the previous owner left behind.I just need a simple bench with a shelf below. Google gives me way too many options and suggestions, what's the goon go to? Tailor to your needs/wants. Watch as program creep takes you into places you've never considered before.
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Jan 31, 2020 15:56
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Also, keep in mind that Ryobi One+ has lanyards that can help with storage: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-Tool-Lanyard-2-Pack-P922/303325962
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Jan 31, 2020 18:37
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BlackMK4 posted:Long story short, I bought a condo back in January and I am starting to figure out how the thing is built. I'm getting around to throwing LEDs in my garage, so I removed one of the fluorescent fixtures since I need to put in an outlet where it is to plug in one or two of the LEDs. Gfci is typically for damp locations, is something driving that need? Or would this work? https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...WhoCrC0QAvD_BwE
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Apr 5, 2020 10:21
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angryrobots posted:He's in the electrical thread now with this question, but yes GFCI is required for anything in a garage.. Though having one on the ceiling runs afoul of the requirement that it's accessible. So you protect it via an upstream receptacle, or GFCI breaker. Interesting, I didn't know that was a code update. Looks like GFCI in the garage was required in 2008. My 1999 house is lacking that. I'll have to look into that next round of updates. Thanks!
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Apr 5, 2020 16:11
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opengl128 posted:That rules.
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Apr 10, 2020 21:08
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sharkytm posted:Sure. If you don't care about it flaking off in a year. Or you can pay double and get 2 years.
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Apr 29, 2020 00:53
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Rhyno posted:So there are a few local epoxy installers, what kind of warranty is acceptable? I see options from 3 to 6 years at various costs. That sounds impossibly short for a permanent home installation. I'd look for no less than 20, or I'd worry about product/application issues.
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May 8, 2020 21:46
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Rhyno posted:I can't find anyone offering more than 8 locally. First hit on a google search for "epoxy floor warranty indiana" came up with lifetime: https://www.garageexperts.com/location/north-west-indiana But that's for NW Indiana... who knows what NE Indiana does. Edit: NE Indiana 15 years to lifetime: https://www.penntekcoatings.com/dealers/fort-wayne-in/garage-floor-coatings/ Do I need to pull your google license? Edit 2: This company services NE Indiana and offers epoxy slurry. That's what you want if you can afford it. It's a layer of epoxy mixed with aggregate about 1/8-1/4" thick, or more. It's bombproof. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 22:00 on May 8, 2020 |
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May 8, 2020 21:56
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frrtbkr posted:thek: holy smokes, nice setup! When your garage footprint is bigger than the house's, you're doing it right. Are you going to open up any of the bays, or leave them as individual? Renting any out? Seems like a ton of possibilities with something like that.
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May 26, 2020 17:16
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Light chat -- I've needed more light in my garage for a while. I started out with two 4-bulb 4' florescent and 1 bulb in each of the 2 door openers. A few years ago, I replaced the florescents with led and the tied the door openers into Costco 2 tube led fixtures with a plug adapter in the sockets. That was okay for a while. It's been... okay, but not great. Yesterday I replaced one of the Costco 2 tube fixtures with four 36w Amazon 2 tube leds: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TM97LWY Big difference.  Old Costco on the left, old 4 tube on the right. You can't tell from the picture, but the row of 4 fixtures absolutely dominates the light output. I think I'll get 4 more and hook them up to the other door opener, then get new led replacement tubes. I just need to get back into those fixtures, I think I removed the ballast and hardwired the leds in when I did it, so I'll have to see what the modern replacement is. Output per dollar, though? Those Amazon lights are pretty nice. And yes, I need to dust the garage ceiling.
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Jun 20, 2020 20:09
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Bioshuffle posted:I'm guessing I can just fill the gap with spray foam? I'm also worried about that stain coming out of the wall in the second picture. Could that be water damage? Clean it out and see what remains. Spray foam would probably take care of it. The stain looks like oil, especially how it looks like it stained the molding above it, just in the area of the spill. Not uncommon with a garage, but something to double-check. The seller probably knows.
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Jul 26, 2020 22:35
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Rhyno posted:I have like, 9 corded drills I haven't touched in ages. And probably 3 old circular saws. ... why?
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Aug 18, 2020 20:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:You're the dad we all
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Jan 27, 2021 00:03
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Oh, that's purdy.
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Jul 7, 2021 15:00
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mik posted:Definitely an established company that does commercial, industrial and residential applications. They're the only choice in my area so I can't really shop around, and I'm sure their price reflects that somewhat. Substrate adherence is critical, so it's good to go with a company that does industrial work. Did they talk about the quality of your substrate? An industrial company probably also does slurry bases, which is the way I'd go for an epoxy floor. It'd cost several dollars per square foot more, but it'd be bombproof.
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Sep 10, 2021 19:05
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Suburban Dad posted:Just for a point of reference, I had my ~450 sq ft garage done for $1-1.5k at my old house in the midwest. They ground the concrete, and put down the color and flakes, I don't believe there was any top coat. It came out pretty decent but it did start to pull up in one spot after a couple years where one of my wife's car tires was parked on frequently. Not grippy tires (A/S and snows in winter) so not sure what happened with it or why. Was only there for 3-4 years after getting it done and it held up well otherwise. It's just monstrously hard to get a coating to adhere to used concrete. Oil seeps in, road grime gets smashed in with time and pressure, etc. I've wanted an epoxy floor in the garage for the 15 years that we've lived here, but in that time, I've seen 3 friends use DIY systems and they have all pulled up to some degree. That would drive me nuts and I'd have to throw more money at it. A professional, knowledgeable company is the most important component of the job, imo. They'll be familiar with the climate in your area, and know what's best for the condition of your concrete.
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Sep 10, 2021 20:42
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Voltage posted:Any suggestings for a 20A electric heater? My garage has a dedicated 40A circuit for one with a 20A NEMA plug in the ceiling, was looking at this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/KING-4000-Watt-240-Volt-Electric-Portable-Fixed-Mount-Shop-Space-Heater-PSH2440TB/307678973 but I wanted something a bit higher end. I've got a 5700 watt King : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PSFRTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 It's on a 30 amp circuit, with matching outlet, and I think it is close to 30A at it's maximum. It is configured, though, so you can lower its output and, in turn, lower the draw. It can keep my 3 bay garage at 70* with a 0* outside temperature. PBCrunch posted:Hire a plumber to run natural gas into the garage and get one of those ceiling-mounted gas heaters. This is the best option, I just didn't want to pony up the money for a gas line extension.
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Oct 29, 2021 22:46
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Motronic posted:These aren't exactly it, but it's similar to what I recall seeing: Dad had those type of heaters in his old out building. No real down side, they work, and keep everything warm. He had 10" clearance to the mounting joists and there was a truss structure above, so clearance wasn't an issue. I prefer something fan-driven, though. (Fan-driven in the heat distribution, the infrared heaters above have a fan that pushes the burning fuel through the tubes.)
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Oct 31, 2021 22:15
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More lumens is always better.
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Jan 2, 2024 23:47
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