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Don't see anything underside of that garage floor, pretty sure that is the house basement, but I agree that house looks structurally well built. That kitchen is going to cost you $$ to modernize though, but that looks like a nice spread. I sort of like the old timey finishing in the living areas.
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Aug 17, 2019 05:53
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I'm sure you saw it, but there is a good size puddle of water in that basement underneath the plumbing. Obviously see what that is. The wood might make it a little tough if you want to install a lift other than something like a floor mount scissor/quick jack type thing but nthing a PE/P.Eng to give you a report on it. How deep is that garage? You're going to need to budget for some yard equipment taking care of 5.5 acres. I really like it. That kitchen is a time capsule out of the 70s and is serviceable as it is but holy poo poo but man, has a ton of potential with a reno. Arishtat posted:Garage power chat: I find myself in possession of a 120V/30A circuit that used to run the inside unit for an HVAC system which was replaced with a Mitsubishi slim. What’s a good use of such an odd power feed in a suburban garage? I'm not sure I understand your question. You mean you have a 120V/30A auxiliary panel box? Maybe a 1.5HP 120V compressor?
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Aug 17, 2019 14:57
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Ugh, mostly wooded? Even better. Very jealous. Don't be terribly scared of the wood floor unless you were dead set on a post hoist or something. What is the utility service like on acreages there? Typically here we have municipal treated water but septic fields. An old septic can be a bit of a problem if its in rough shape so if you're not qualified yourself make sure that's been looked at. Decent ISP options? Not sure if its a trick of the lighting/jpeg artifacts but the shingles on the house side in particular might look a little rough? Do houses there not have eavestroughs/downspouts? 
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Aug 17, 2019 15:29
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As a 3 bay garage haver (with the 3rd one being a full pull-thru) it's never big enough. Go as big as you can afford/space allows. You will not regret it.
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Dec 9, 2019 21:55
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I was looking for a 4' x 4bulb T5 for my garage, but found these on Amazon, which seems to be what I want but LED instead of T5. I'm thinking of putting 4 of these in my garage, which will free up 2x T5 florescent fixtures which I will use elsewhere. Looks to be about my best bet for lumens. Thoughts? Other ideas? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DMZWZ4B/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A24YTWXXZVIWWC&psc=1 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07RZ816MR/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A24YTWXXZVIWWC&psc=1 Talking to an LED specialist I deal with at work, he says that T5s actually stand up pretty well compared to LEDs in lumen output/bang buck hence why I was looking for them at first. At least the cost/benefit for retrofitting them isn't there yet, at least not like T8s and T12s... but if I want some new/additional fixtures I'm open to suggestions. slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jan 4, 2020 17:06
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31x28-ish Right now it has a whopping total of 3x 4' 2-bulb T5 fixtures and to be honest, it's shockingly not terrible, but I want more light. I'm thinking 2 of these on each side plus re-wire the 2 left over T5 fixtures to the back of the garage (so there will be a chain of 3) should be pretty good, if not ample. Here's a photo
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Jan 4, 2020 20:31
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I got my 4x LED wrap arounds in and I have a question for mounting them in series via the knock-outs. I've obviously mounted lights in the past, but never in series, just each as stand alone. I was hoping with the knock outs I could tie into the power at the end of the fixture and carry it over to the other fixture, but do I have to run a separate power cable all the way from the twist connects of the first light, into the second, twist connector, run another one to the third, twist connector, 4th? I mean, that's easily enough done but I guess I thought there was something to tap into closer to the ends.. suppose not?   What's the best way to deal with the ground since I won't have junction boxes on 3 of them? Just use a 3-wire cable and run the ground like the power? slidebite fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 02:05
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Yeah, so that's what I thought after I realized it wasn't going in series like hoped. Makes perfect sense. Thanks. First time doing multiple fixtures like this. 
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Jan 9, 2020 02:27
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Took out the 2x 2 bulb T5 fixtures and replaced with the 4x 4 strip LED's. End of the day: Happy with the light thrown out, but, I am most surprised with the light thrown out by the 2x 4' 54W T5 bulbs. They throw good light. No doubt the 4x4 7400 lumen LED fixtures throw out more, but it's not THAT much more. Take away: If you can get a smoking deal on high wattage T5s, they are a good bang/buck light. Here are a few pics of my 4 hours of work this afternoon, removing the old T5s, hanging the new LED's (laser measurers are a godsend), wiring and testing. The old T5s will get life still, I'll attach them next to the last existing T5 over my steps into the house. Old original 2 bulb T5s. There is another one visible directly above the camera in the raised ceiling area. This is where I'll put at least 1, maybe both of the spare T5s.   Placing them in. Hooked up the first one to give light (and turn breaker back on - furnace was one the same circuit so heat as well) and then hung the rest without wiring them up at first.  Running the power cable, need to hook them up, test and diffusers  Done with diffusers. The camera made it seem far dimmer than it really was. It's got a good brightness for a garage, but I would be lying if I said 4x as bright as the 2 T5 fixtures. Maybe 2x as bright? Vehicles had frost on them from being stuck in the driveway for 4 hours at -15C while I worked on this... between a few beers and visitors.  Also a shout-out to this Milwaukee 18V light I borrowed from the office. Kept the whole garage lighted excellently as I had the power turned off to do the wiring. Hours of life on the battery but can also take 120V input so it's indefinite. I'd love it as a worklight. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Site-Lights/2145-20 
slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jan 12, 2020 |
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Jan 12, 2020 06:50
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30x50 would be pretty drat sweet. If only. 
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Mar 3, 2020 02:48
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That looks awesome man, let us know how the inspection goes. Do you have a back yard or is is your tiny garage taking up almost all of it?
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Apr 10, 2020 16:30
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I don't know what vehicle you have, but go to the quickjack website and make sure it's narrow enough to fit between your wheels. If it's a smaller car, you might find it doesn't fit. My 5000 fits between the wheels on my 996, but there isn't a ton of space. Pretty sure a 7000 would be a no-go.
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Apr 22, 2020 00:32
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Someone posted a fire hall that was for sale which was even zoned residential. That would be the ultimate dude pad. Paying to heat it in a Canadian winter would have sucked though.
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Jun 19, 2020 22:46
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That's pretty cool - I had no idea that was such a thing. The whole powering it would be the tricky part.
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Jun 22, 2020 04:50
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Nice. Very jelly. Is it 120V?
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Jun 26, 2020 04:57
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1976 is accurate. He's either mistaken on the year or it had an aftermarket conversion which was very common in the 70s and 80s for sunroofs/t-tops. I remember the 2nd gen with having horrendously heavy doors which always caused wicked sag and alignment issues. I still want a Turbo indy pace car edition for some completely stupid reason which I can't explain. Hope it works out! They are simple, reliable especially once you get rid of the smog fuckery but are borderline boats and not quick or fast without some time and money. The 455 was a big engine and sounds impressive, but wheezy for sure.
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Jun 26, 2020 06:19
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https://www.atlasautoequipment.ca/atlas-psp-6000-6-000-lb-portable-single-post-lift/
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Jun 26, 2020 21:20
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I have to admit, I'm tempted, but also slightly terrified that dropping the motor will make the whole thing collapse
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Jun 27, 2020 07:18
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Not sure where you live, but if it's anywhere with a real winter you will notice a massive difference in heat retention. If it's heated, you'll see it on your bill and probably pay for itself after a few years.
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Jun 28, 2020 15:47
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Continue...  Also radial arm saws.. my grandpa used his regularly but be damned if I can think of a use for one. My sliding compound miter does 90% of everything and a table or (gasp) skillsaw does the rest.
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Jul 17, 2020 07:41
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Hypnolobster posted:This thread is good and needs more posts. R6 bearing will fit a standard 3/8 bolt nicely and you've got a fuckoff strong drawer. Another way you can do it is by using a cam follower which is basically a needle bearing with a built in threaded stud - but I like your way and would almost certainly be more economical as well.
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Aug 18, 2020 03:42
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^^ I totally get that. I still have things from my grandpa that I haven't even looked at in 25+ years. Just super tough to part with.sharkytm posted:The next step that I'd like to take is to install a motorized ball valve, an auto drain valve, and a compressor cut-off switch. I'm planning on running conduit down the front of the lab and installing a single switch that should: A) Enable the pressure switch to turn the compressor on, B) Enable the motorized ball valve which will replace the valve between the tank and main filter, C) Enable the timer on the auto-drain valve, and D) turn on an indicator light. The issue is that legit motorized ball valves are $$. I've got a couple of saved searches on eBay, and I'm hoping to snag some surplus parts. If not, I'll probably figure out some mickey-mouse Rube Goldberg wire rope and pulley system to open/close the main valve. The last thing I want is the compressor running non-stop if something breaks and I'm not around.  and shipping is anywhere from crazy to rape, probably not economical for you.Expand your searches to Red Hat, or Asco Red Hat. They're very often used as synonyms for valves like that in industry even if they aren't. Like Xerox and Kleenex.
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Aug 19, 2020 04:33
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Hmm, out of curiosity why is 16W? That's less than a lot of LED light bulbs (I assume we're talking 115V here). The valves can be NC or NO (normally closed/open) for when the power isn't on to it, and it takes no power (afaik) to do that. I agree with your term "Actuated valve" - that is indeed what it is, but, of course you'll have to specify as to the type and actuation.
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Aug 19, 2020 14:30
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Anyone here ever done lights on the inside of a garage door? I think someone posted something here a couple months ago and I love that idea.. but haven't put a lot of thought into it yet.
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Aug 21, 2020 04:40
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I would go square, building things not square (on purpose) is a pain in the rear end on several fronts and looks weird. But, go as big/high as you reasonably can. And sure, ask for a variance if you want to go a bit bigger than you can as-is. As long as it doesn't interfere with your neighbors, the worst they'll do is say no.
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Aug 23, 2020 21:49
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No, rectangular is obviously fine. I'm slow as hell and didn't catch the joke There is actually a house near me on an irregular lot and it isn't built at right angles... still wierds me out.
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Aug 24, 2020 06:41
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What..? Why would someone do that? I get a shed with a wood floor, but an actual garage/shop? Heavy equipment and vehicles?  You (or I guess your B-I-L) is getting into real engineering here.
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Oct 13, 2020 19:23
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Best case like was said, if it's got a slab under it and the wood just covers it you should be golden, but if not yeesh.Motronic posted:I mean.....nobody can say except the person he's renting it from I'd expect. Or whoever built it. Because it all depends on what the floor assembly is made of and structured. I mean....it's got a garage door on it. What else would it be used for other than vehicles that need a door that size? Good points, but that's assuming the person who built it took the time to figure out loading ~or~ potentially just used overhead doors for easy access for storage/moving junk.. and never meant a full size vehicle to go in. I guess if a person wanted to you could throw a couple 2x8s or something on the floor where the vehicle would come/go to spread the load whatever the framing is underneath. But it's still a yeesh.
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Oct 13, 2020 19:35
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I haven't used a personal one, but I have seen the pros do a few times and the while the application seems pretty straight forward, they do gently caress-ton of surface prep which would probably stop me from doing it myself. But drat, looks good when done right.
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Feb 27, 2021 19:23
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So one question with those textured modular floors that makes me cool to the idea, is how do you sweep the floor? I must be missing something super simple here?
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Feb 28, 2021 16:50
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Sounds like a bit of a pain. Although I suppose in some climates it might not be a big deal if you don't get winter with pieces of aggregate being used as well as sand. I see that texture being a pain in the rear end if you're trying to use a creeper.
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Feb 28, 2021 18:41
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In general, I find attached to be more convenient and depending on your winters they will be quasi heated just from radiated heat of your home. According to our insurance agent they are also less likely to be broken into. I get the safety aspect in case of fire though. Modern codes are pretty good with sealing between the garage/living space so fumes shouldn't be that big of a deal unless your door isn't closed all the way or something. I've never had a problem with either of my last 2 homes.
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May 8, 2021 15:21
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Nice! Looks great
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Jul 6, 2021 05:54
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Asco redhat 8210 series. You might be able to get a decent deal on one and they are sort of the defacto standard for industrial usage up here. Quite reliable.
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Aug 17, 2021 00:09
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Can't recommend a specific one, but I went over to a friends garage a few years back and he had a couple of those infrared heaters permanently mounted overhead in his garage, and I must admit they did a better job than I expected.
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Oct 29, 2021 22:01
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I have a Modine Hot Dawg 45000 BTU and it's fairly small and compact, according to their data sheet they make a 30K as well. The 45K does my 32x26' triple quite well. The biggest issue is all the heat loss through the garage doors. You can insulate the walls and ceiling as well as you like but overhead doors can only get so good. https://modine.worksmartsuite.com/PORTAL/io_modules/IOGETIMAGE.php?type=stream&filename=6-114.pdf The 30k appears to be similar physical size to the 45k. The 2 big names, around here at least, seem to be modine and reznor. I haven't heard anything bad about either but when I bought mine, Modine was made in the USA and Reznor was off shore. For the smallish residential sizes at least. Not idea if that matters to you or is even accurate now. Remember, there is more to it than running a gas stub. They electrical isn't rocket science but you do need to vent it. Either through the wall or ceiling/roof. Personally, I found that more intimidating to do properly than anything else and I had my home builder do it. slidebite fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Oct 31, 2021 |
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Oct 31, 2021 14:44
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Sounds like you need load bearing drywall.  No real input on fire resistant materials though since you're on a budget and the ones I'm familiar with are not inexpensive. Seriously though, if you're concerned about your joists/trusses not supporting a few sheets of drywall, I think you have bigger problems.
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Dec 8, 2021 21:59
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Not really garage related, but figured better here than anywhere else. I'm trying to find a natural gas patio heater, or maybe even a much smaller (~10K BTU) tabletop heater. Problem is, natural gas seems to be very rare to find wheras propane is everywhere. Is it pretty straight forward to convert LPG to NG? I'm not scared to try and convert one myself as long as I am given the specs for changing an orifice (drill out the LPG?) and get the proper adapters for converting to a NG hose from a bottle/reg. Ideally I'd like a NG tabletop heater right out of the box (I can run a hose right up the centre of the table) but those don't even seem to exist.
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Mar 28, 2022 22:54
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Thanks for that. Do you know if there is a guide for orifice size/BTU going from LPG?
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Mar 28, 2022 23:23
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Thanks man. Why don't you buy one and convert it for me too since you've done everything else for me lol
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Mar 29, 2022 00:16
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