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Rime posted:Shits super hosed, isn't it. Dang, doesn't sound good. Black smoke from massive misfire? Running that rough from a combination of misfires and low compression? Clanking clunking from piston damage or rod bearings? I hope you get it figured out, I really like these trucks! I "built" a similar one with a friend 11 years ago. 
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Sep 1, 2017 16:03
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Could be a really bad vacuum leak or something. Hard to tell until you start digging around under the hood.
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Sep 1, 2017 19:07
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Yeah, I spent some time poking around after work here. It can't be anything too bad because it will drop to zero on the tach and, while lugging, still sound like a champ. There's no rod knock in there, the clacking is purely valve train noise and it goes away once it's warm (except when it comes back really loud on the highway for no good reason). There *is* a hissing noise underneath which I thought was just the shot exhaust, but could be a vacuum leak. poo poo. That's outside my banana scale to troubleshoot. Imma go drive this on a 300km trip into the bush here and report back on any further developments. 
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Sep 1, 2017 21:47
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How complicated is the vacuum system? Vacuum hose is cheap and it might be easier just to re run every vacuum line on your 20+ year old truck than it would be diagnose the leak.
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Sep 1, 2017 21:59
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If it's like most mid 90s n/a Nissans, not too bad, though at least on my Altima, there's a high temp hose that looks exactly like a vacuum line that actually carries exhaust  to the EGR Transducer. I have no loving clue why. When that hose split the only visible indication was the check engine light coming on for EGR not working.
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Sep 1, 2017 23:48
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Pull the plugs and inspect. Check compression if you can. I'm guessing it doesn't have an oil pressure gauge, does it at least have an idiot light? Does it illuminate at key on and then go out/stay out after start up?
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Sep 3, 2017 16:50
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It has idiot lights, they do not come on after the startup cycle. I put, like, a cup of oil in it and it hasn't done anything odd since then except make the loud-rear end clacking on the highway (which will stop for a while if the engine slows to walking pace for a couple of minutes). If the previous overheating and general fuckery was because both the dipstick and dash were not informing me that it was out of oil, that would be super hosed up. I've gone ahead and bought everything I need to do the timing belt, as well as a new coolant temp sensor and a new round of spark plugs. Plan is for next weekend. 
Rime fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Sep 7, 2017 |
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Sep 7, 2017 21:17
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E:nvm, not a problem in this situation
Rime fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Sep 16, 2017 |
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Sep 16, 2017 21:09
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This is the sound of my engine eating itself, isn't it. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B61bFyBKEjD4b2RjcXpzLVpCazg The belt was aligned perfectly on all three cams. I cranked it over by hand repeatedly and felt no resistance. I counted the teeth. What the gently caress. I have no money to tow this to a shop, or to have a shop look at it. gently caress my life. 
Rime fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Sep 17, 2017 |
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Sep 17, 2017 19:09
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Is that it's idle speed?! Sounds like 2500rpm. That would start pointing towards vacuum leak.
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Sep 17, 2017 20:32
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Ok, so on further investigation I don't think the fucker is eating valves. At least not yet, maybe, but there's something fucky going on here. I threw it into gear and clutched waaaaaaaaaay out to slow its roll, and there's no pinging or banging in there but the idle is super loving high and there's a definite weird valve noise so something is off, I just have no clue what it could be. Could it be off by just one tooth? What's the ramifications of running it off a tooth for a while? https://drive.google.com/file/d/16LbHz3K_5cspIR8V6_LUP2Z5LaYQBYPkPw/view?usp=sharing
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Sep 17, 2017 20:46
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Basically gently caress Nissan for putting one of the lower cover bolts directly behind the coolant inflow pipe. That's the only thing forcing someone to drain the system to get into the timing tensioner. Can't leave it out, either, since it goes through the water pump and helps hold it on.
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Sep 17, 2017 22:48
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The bottom of the timing cover was sticking out enough to rub on the harmonic dampener, sounds like the clicking bag of poo poo I know so well once the dampener was off.
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Sep 21, 2017 00:44
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Aren't Nissans of that era notorious for the EGRs clogging up and running like poo poo? I would completely remove the EGR system if you can and then see how it runs.
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Sep 21, 2017 04:38
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A cam being a tooth off wouldn't cause that. I've driven a few cars with one cam a bit off, the visible symptoms were sputtering and occasional backfire (one had insane top end power, but nothing below 4k, and the emissions guy said he'd never seen a Honda fail so bad before). Sounds like it's wound out to like... 5k? You either have a massive vacuum leak, or your throttle body/cable is stuck (this is the most likely thing - go look at the throttle body blade, make sure it's closed - check the cruise and throttle cables). Or maybe you somehow hamfisted the FITV (fast idle thermo valve). That engine sounds decent aside from revving to the moon - maybe some piston slap going on? kinda revving too high to tell, but sounds like most other high mile engines I've heard that are wound up. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Sep 21, 2017 |
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Sep 21, 2017 07:21
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Aren't Nissans of that era notorious for the EGRs clogging up and running like poo poo? I would completely remove the EGR system if you can and then see how it runs. If the ECU (or whatever voodoo tech this engine has controlling it) thinks there is EGR happening, won't removing it and covering up its various holes essentially be the same thing as having it completely clogged up?
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Sep 21, 2017 08:04
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EGR issues will either make it stall or run like rear end. Or run perfectly normal. It won't cause that super high idle.
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Sep 21, 2017 08:36
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Idle is back to normal and the sound in the vids was the timing belt cover rubbing on the back of the harmonic dampener after the replacement. However there's a pronounced ticking knock somewhere in the block, which has me concerned when coupled with the jackhammer noise that I get after half an hour of driving on the highway and that incident of belch information black smoke and stalling a few weeks back. I have a suspicion that there may be cam lobe damage which is affecting the oil pressure to the lifters, gonna take it in and get a second opinion before I open the head.  I mean it still runs fine and has plenty of oomph, but there's something fucky going on here which is beyond my ability to troubleshoot.
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Sep 21, 2017 16:58
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As a former D21 owner (with hopes of having another one in the future and restoring it in this manner) I will live vicariously through this thread.
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Sep 22, 2017 00:28
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So I sprayed like half a can of seafoam into the oil filler hole this afternoon, and after driving it for ten minutes it was  quieter in the lifters. We'll see if this means they actually get oil now so that the fucker stops overheating on the highway.Also here's some pictures from the timing belt adventure:  It Begins at 7am.  Gaskets? Pfft! Who needs em! (this has a gasket now, post-replacement).  Didn't realize I'd need a puller for the dampener.  Puller bolts are too large, but this POS setup is just going to gently caress me...  Much better!  loving NAPA. (That's a used chrysler thermostat, beside the OG circa 1996).   Release the green slime! (and then spend 2.5 hours meticulously scraping 14 y/o concreted gasket off with a razor  ). It's now 9pm, and we're working by headlamp, but the new pump is in! After that I got everything in up to the fan and called it quits for the night, then the next morning I ripped it all apart to put an extra thou of tension on the belt because I felt uneasy. Then put it together again. Then it sat for three days until I had enough time to go back in agaaaaaaain yesterday and reveal this fucker:  The cover which was grinding on the harmonic dampener and causing that godawful racket. Whew, fun times! E: Oh yeah, the internet said not to bother putting the spring back on the timing tensioner, and the new tensioner did not come with a spring, so that didn't go back in. 
Rime fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Sep 22, 2017 |
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Sep 22, 2017 02:59
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Great success 👍👍
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Sep 22, 2017 03:23
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Given your woes of with the V6 and hearing some other stories about it not being the awesomest engine in the world, I'm kind of glad I got a lowly 4-cylinder in mine...
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Sep 22, 2017 08:58
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Holy gently caress, Seafoam is like magic or something. https://drive.google.com/open?id=13T2_0jw2e0EFNQtu76g_KUsWHE1C5eVUZQ
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Sep 22, 2017 20:14
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woah almost like a 20 year old truck got dirty!! Congrats on gettin' it running for now 
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Sep 22, 2017 22:41
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Changed the transmission oil today, seeking a high pitched whine. Holy poo poo GL4 is expensive.  Anyways, existing transmission fluid was best described as a "black, lubricating sludge, like silicon grease." There were also 7 or 8 gear teeth stuck to my drain plug, though no more flushed out that I could see. Transmission doesn't slip yet, so we'll just keep on truckin'...for now. 
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Oct 31, 2017 03:14
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So how'd it smell?  Yeah it is, and GL5 eats away at the synchros in Nissan gearboxes. I think Valvoline makes a hybrid GL4/GL5 still, and the price difference was significant enough for me to try it in my Altima. It didn't seem to do any actual harm, anyway. Manual gearboxes don't "slip" though... slip is usually a failing clutch on a manual. I've run into very few people who ever think about the gearbox oil; most people never change it. Hell, most people never change the fluid in their automatics.
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Oct 31, 2017 08:54
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Redline and royal purple also make gl4 fluid. Cheap is not something I would use to describe them though.
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Oct 31, 2017 09:25
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My go to place here for cheap car stuff, Biltema (in Sweden), sell synthetic GL4/GL5 stuff (specifically saying it's fine for "yellow metals") for about the same price as "normal" GL5 stuff. Got some for my D21 months ago but I just haven't bothered changing it yet...
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Oct 31, 2017 09:45
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Following oil change, truck no longer sounds like there is a jackhammer under the hood after half an hour of highway driving.  Hearing that GL5 will eat my gearbox is distressing, since that's what I put in it, but I also suspect that at nearly half a million km this truck will die of some other cause before that damage can manifest itself.
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Nov 9, 2017 18:14
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It's not great for the synchros, I don't think anything else in the gearbox will really be damaged by it. GL4 is hard to find these days, but there's plenty of GL4/GL5 hybrids.
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Nov 10, 2017 04:13
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When I did the tranny in my Hardbody I used GM syncromesh. Seemed fine.
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Nov 21, 2017 05:07
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Pennzoil Synchromesh's data sheet claims it's safe for yellow metals, so it should be fine. It's not GL-4 rated, but the OEM application is rather limited to begin with, and a lot of people use it in tons of gearboxes. I've used it in a very tired Honda gearbox; before synchromesh, I couldn't even use 2nd gear without double clutching, and it was popping out of 5th. After, I could shift into 2nd so long as I didn't slam it into gear and kept it below ~6000 rpm when upshifting. Got rid of most of the popping out of 5th too. I think Pennzoil is the OEM for GM on that stuff. Don't quote me on that, though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Nov 21, 2017 |
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Nov 21, 2017 16:22
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Recently I've been grinding pretty bad on the second gear, fully clutched, but only on the upshift. This lead to some investigation, and the realization that those 5-7 teeth on my drain plug were synchro teeth, most likely off the second gear. Gonna give my transmission 12 months to live if I'm lucky, I guess, after which the truck will head to the scrap yard because dropping a new transmission in exceeds what I paid for this thing.
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Dec 20, 2017 03:50
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You don't need synchros. Just double-clutch everywhere, no need to murder a sweet innocent truck like this.
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Dec 20, 2017 03:59
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If I learn to effectively double-clutch without a functional dash cluster and not explode my transmission, I deserve a goddamn medal.
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Dec 20, 2017 04:20
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Rime posted:If I learn to effectively double-clutch without a functional dash cluster and not explode my transmission, I deserve a goddamn medal. What on earth do you need a dash for? I double-clutched my landie for years, and that only had a barely-functioning speedo. Rev it up and slot it in! 
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Dec 20, 2017 21:47
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I just used a cheap like $35 digital tach in my D21, didnt even need to screw it down, fits perfectly on the dash by the door, i think the 96 might have a different dash tho
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Dec 21, 2017 00:08
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Well friends, this sordid tale has come to an unfortunate and utterly unexpected end. I'd always assumed this thing would die very far up a logging road and I'd be forced to push it off the side of a mountain and declare it a loss. Tonight, as I was preparing myself for bed, some blind drunk piece of poo poo in a Honda Pilot plowed head-on into my parked truck. With the transmission in 2nd and the E-brake on, it was hit with enough force to drive it 25 feet backwards into another car. As you can imagine, poo poo is hosed.  It was parked where that pathway is in the foreground, prior to the impact.    Much like a person who is very dead, the radiator vented its contents in one mighty stream.  These poor folks had owned this car for five days, and now my tow hitch is embedded in their radiator.  The drunken piece of shits loving airbag didn't even deploy! And he walked away as if nothing happened!  I guess I could afford an Eagle with what ICBC will pay me, but do I really want another 30+ year old 4x4 basket case?
Rime fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Jan 14, 2018 |
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Jan 14, 2018 09:56
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Another D21 goes to the grave. I shed another tear. This was a good thread while it lasted.
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Jan 14, 2018 10:27
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I hope insurance and the cops ream that rear end in a top hat, what a hosed up way to lose a good truck
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Jan 14, 2018 10:44
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