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I think remote release for trunk/boot/hatch was pretty rare for ages. Some top end luxury cars had hydraulic or vacuum remote release in the 60s/70s but there was a big gap between them to where it became common in smaller or cheaper cars. It was a long time until it was cheap enough to do with an electric solenoid/actuator in the late 80s/90s, though maybe some hatchbacks got a cable release in the early 80s. All the 1970s cars I've had (mazdas or aussie) didn't have anything for boot/trunk release, key only. Hood release via cable has been standard though. That trans tunnel is wide and the shifter seems too far forward, but that foot well is cramped.
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Jul 4, 2017 08:26
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I don't even know how zenith/strombergs or su type carbs even do chokes. Those types of carbs I never worked on, does anyone know? Be glad you even have a choke like function because a weber IDA is a pain is the arse when cold due to lack of choke. My old car was much more streetable when I switched from IDAs to IDFs (which in itself had a weird choke set up, like extra gauze filter air inlets and fuel circuit rather than the usual just restrict main air inlet and just up the rpm with a linkage like most standard OEM and weber carbs). Besides webers, the rotaries hitachi and nikki, and a few 1300, 1500, 1600, 1800 and 2000cc 4cyl mazdas and some fords I haven't dealt with carbs a lot. Seen a rochester and holley a few times, and a predator and dellorto I tried to help tune back in the day, but not zenith/strombergs . Closest to them I've been is having a few friends with SUs in datsuns, but they were a mystery to me in 1990 and remain so (something something needle damper dashpot and oil... blaze out) Fo3 fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Jul 19, 2017 |
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Jul 19, 2017 03:15
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kimbo305 posted:A week ago, I would have cast doubt on the carbs being that big a stranding headache, but now that attitude is slightly checked. So the biggest problem is repros suck and old ones can't be repaired by greybeards. A good carb set up properly runs fine. E: and at least you have a common carb so you might find greybeards or good repros - you'd have less chance with a non weber Euro, or any Japanese carb. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Aug 23, 2017 |
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Aug 23, 2017 15:46
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Yeah, older ignitions were on lower volts, not just for fun but it extended life on the points/breakers. When upgrading to electronic dizzy you need to a) replace the 7-9V coils with 12V ones, b) remove the ballast resistors and rewire the coils. As far as carb fuckery, the latest coldwar motors YT vid has a good ep just out. My jaw dropped when he brought out the box of vintage carb rebuild kits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9WmNx4-_eI
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Aug 24, 2017 17:23
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You misunderstand. All 12V cars with points ignition distributors dropped the voltage to the ignition coils to prolong the life of the breakers/points. The car is 12V, but the ignition sees only ~7V due to ballast resistors dropping the volts. I doubt it's a problem as most people convert it to 12V when adding electronic ignition (by removing the resistors and wiring it straight to 12v), I'm just explaining what dogoncrook meant and could happen if the coils weren't also upgraded to 12v when upgrading the dizzy E: I'm talking plural because I'm used to doing this conversion on rotaries. But usually only one set of contact point, coil and ballast resistor of course. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Aug 24, 2017 |
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Aug 24, 2017 18:36
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Yeah, dieseling, fuel just being sucked in through the carbs and just igniting due to heat. It's not sparking, just heat, fuel, compression. In the 1980s many OEM carbs added a fuel cut solenoid to the idle circuit help with this ( and a heap of emissions vac solenoids etc), but old school or aftermarket carbs like yours or weber, holley etc aren't going to have that. Could be carbon build up in the engine causing hot spots, maybe a cleaner type product can be used? Otherwise make sure your engine isn't running rich on idle or change fuel as suggested?
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Aug 26, 2017 08:12
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kimbo305 posted:But you'd have enough in the carbs to fuel it for a while, no? drat, I really want to dig into the car now but am not home. There's not enough vacuum to pull fuel through the main jets as the throttle butterfly valve is shut(or pretty much) on idle, the fuel cut is just on the idle bypass/idle jet/fuel circuit. The solenoid just has to block one small internal jet/path/tube usually. I didn't even know that su or z/s carbs had them. E: google led me to a system on them which just opens the vac chamber to air, reducing vacuum. It was some sort of very late model though with emissions control. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 05:20
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I missed before it had an underdash umbrella style park brake. That's so Japanese van/early ford falcon. I was pretty happy when ford got rid of them in the mid 90s.
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Sep 5, 2017 11:03
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kimbo305 posted:Two more dream cars: I really love old gt40 kit cars, I know of the real thing but never saw it in real life of course. I first saw a kit version 20 years ago just parked in the street in Perth, AU and fell in love - like wow, you can build them? Later I realised I'd never fit in one without gurney mods so I'd have to build my own which I had no way of doing. I reckon find one of them or a unique porsche or BMW. That said, it's great you got to send off the lotus with that photo shoot. At least you can tick that one off and have something to remember it by. Most of my cars never got good photos as that's something I didn't keep from the 80s and 90s. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Sep 12, 2017 |
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Sep 12, 2017 12:42
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At least you've gained some experience with multi carb set ups 
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Sep 12, 2017 16:35
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Embrace what you have, ie cheap euros. For you it's euros, for au/nz is Japanese, for the US is US cars (sorry  )Seriously though it's grass is greener situation, US cars in AU are never going to be cheap and euros here are more expensive than in europe or the US. Just got to work with what you can get in your region. I think it's too late to get get 1970s cars cheap, the last 10 years added $10K or more (e: even on the cheaper undesirable ones). Before that those were cheap because they were just old cars. So these days if looking for a bargain look at iconic 90s cars as the 1980s car are already going up. But yeah, even 80s and 90s cars are still going to cost more than in the US. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Oct 1, 2017 |
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Oct 1, 2017 12:05
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:01 |
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It's intentionally got the interior trim colour scheme that my e34 has by accident/dumb PO! My car was originally blue interior, but with cloth seats, also being older it didn't have the fake wood trim around the dash and shifter that the later e34s had. The PO tossed the blue seats because they wanted leather, and fitted a cream/ivory console to match, also cream/ivory glovebox and drivers knee panel for the fake wood paneling. All I'd have to do to be almost the same colour fit out as that db7 is add some cream/ivory trim inserts to the OE blue door cards. I didn't know a sane mind would come up with that interior scheme though. But really I'd like to return it to all blue like it was originally, maybe dye the leather seats to blue and try find the blue glove box and knee panel, or just paint them. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 06:52
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