|
One thing I did learn while cleaning and such: the Corolla has all it's AC bits except the condenser and drier. The compressor is there, and all the hoses. Woot! Condenser is like $100. Need to add that to the to-do list up there.
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
I've never seen someone put work into fixing the 6.38" rear on a SR5 before. The car will be surprisingly fun despite having all of 50whp; I dyno'd my '87 4AC powered AE86 and wasn't surprised by the results. They sold GT-S coupes from '85-'87, but hatches are far harder to find thanks to drifter destruction. Good luck, as you'll need it if you ever decide you want to start upgrading anything.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 15:49
|
|
|
pr0craztinazn posted:I've never seen someone put work into fixing the 6.38" rear on a SR5 before. The car will be surprisingly fun despite having all of 50whp; I dyno'd my '87 4AC powered AE86 and wasn't surprised by the results. They sold GT-S coupes from '85-'87, but hatches are far harder to find thanks to drifter destruction. All I'm doing is replacing a roached bearing on one axle, which is way, way cheaper than literally any other option. I may pull the pig just to change the oil and confirm gear ratio/check the gears, which will cost me all of maybe and hour and some gasket sealer. Do you normally replace an entire rearend when the bearings go out? I won't be drifting the thing, so there's no reason to replace the axle unless I bump the power up, which right now is probably not happening. My first love is my RX-7. This is just a dalliance.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 16:00
|
|
|
I'm excited to see where this goes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 11:45
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:All I'm doing is replacing a roached bearing on one axle, which is way, way cheaper than literally any other option. I may pull the pig just to change the oil and confirm gear ratio/check the gears, which will cost me all of maybe and hour and some gasket sealer.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 14:44
|
|
|
pr0craztinazn posted:That was not meant to be an attack, just more an expression of surprise since the smaller Toyota rear axles do not tend to get much love. Oh, I didn't take it as an attack, but I'm not, like modifying it or anything. Just fixing a (non-existent) bearing, and the dude gave me a 4.10:1 third member. Since mine is a manual, it should have 3.909:1 so a tiny bit more acceleration would be neat. These are so easy to deal with since they use a third member like the Mazda and Ford 9" rears. Sure, I'd love to find a GT-S or Supra axle, mainly for the rear discs, but $$ and labor. This thing will do until I decide to repower it. I wonder how much work a Mazda axle would be? Bolt pattern would be an issue unless using a GSL-SE rear. So, speaking of the rear, the axle retainer and gaskets arrived. I was initially irritated, as there appeared to be only 1 of each gasket, but there were actually two in each bag, stuck together perfectly. In fact, they were so stuck together that I actually got 3 of the axle retainer gaskets.  Axle retainer is considerably less mangled:   While I was out in the garage, I rigged up a pulling tool (my cheap-rear end dent pulling slide hammer fitted through the center hole of a gear puller) and yanked the outer bearing race and remains of the seal out of the rearend. Compared to fresh versions:  And cleaned the paint off of one of the baby Supra center caps:   And then the other one:  The sides have a little scuffing, so I may paint that lower non-shiny portion.  Stuck one on one of the cleaned wheels for the full effect:  Examined the fuse box after getting some reference pictures of the box and the fuse position sticker that goes on the cover (mine doesn't have a cover) and discovered a fuse in the wrong spot, which when moved fixed the dome light and clock, and presumably the cigarette lighter, since that's what the fuse is actually labeled for. Basically, it's +12V constant for all those things. Stupid thing still won't start since I washed the engine bay. Since it's carbureted and won't even cough on starting fluid, I suspect an ignition issue. Just haven't had time to look at it. Starter and battery are good and strong, though. It spins over like a champ. I also noted that the baby Supras really should be using shanked flat washer lug nuts, and all I have is acorn-style nuts for the original steel wheels. Guess I better get some of those before ruining the wheels - or losing one. edit: I'm going to have to do a bunch of sanding to get that curb rash off of the wheel. It doesn't help that the slightly stretched tires let the rim hang out there unprotected on both sides.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:13
|
|
|
Updates to the list: Missing AC controls faceplate. 11/2/17: Actually, it's missing a chunk and painted over. Also, the temp control lever is missing. So, the entire control assembly needs to be replaced, then. Dome light not working 11/2/17: lights after replacing CIG fuse, but only when switched to "ON". DOOR still not working. Door switches? It's cold-natured - maybe a choke on the carb? 11/2/17: carb has electric choke. Must need tuning. Once it starts again... edit: I noticed that it has a bracket for the power steering pump on the engine. Need to check the rack and see if it's supposed to have power steering. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Nov 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:20
|
|
|
I suspect there's water inside your distributor cap, causing the no-start.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:35
|
|
|
I wouldn't bother with an RX-7 live axle unless you really want to, but it's pretty trivial to have the bolt pattern redrilled to 4x4.5".
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 16:38
|
|
|
4x100/114.3 has the coolest wheel choices IMO. http://kyushashoes.com/
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 17:09
|
|
|
Olympic Mathlete posted:4x100/114.3 has the coolest wheel choices IMO. 4x100 still is the best for small wheels. There's a reason I'm building my race FB around it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 17:21
|
|
|
Every day I am sad that I am am lumbered with 5 bolt choices on wheels. Everything I've ever loved has been 4 bolt and of course if they ever made 5 bolt versions they don't look as good and are about 100x more rare. :/
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 17:29
|
|
|
Yeah I'm seeing that with my xB. 2nd gen went to 5 bolt and all the cool wheel options are for the 4 bolt 1st gen, why they changed it I have no clue. The wheels and tires I would like would cost me almost 2 grand so gently caress that guess I'm staying stock 
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 17:45
|
|
|
Olympic Mathlete posted:Every day I am sad that I am am lumbered with 5 bolt choices on wheels. Everything I've ever loved has been 4 bolt and of course if they ever made 5 bolt versions they don't look as good and are about 100x more rare. :/
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:29
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:I suspect there's water inside your distributor cap, causing the no-start. I'm leaning that way myself, though I did discover that Toyota does actually put a gasket there, which is nice. May not have been up to withstanding a power washer, though. mekilljoydammit posted:I wouldn't bother with an RX-7 live axle unless you really want to, but it's pretty trivial to have the bolt pattern redrilled to 4x4.5". Yeah, I know. I just figure an FB GSL (disc brake) axle will be easier to find than a 2G Celica Supra or AE86 GT-S axle. For me, at least, since I have several already. Olympic Mathlete posted:4x100/114.3 has the coolest wheel choices IMO. Those are all exceedingly cool, and I wish I could remotely afford anything vintage JDM. I will most likely have to go with repros. Rota has several vintage style rims, and several companies make Watanabe-style wheels with the right fitment. I like the Watanabes, but of course they've been done to death (with good reason.)
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:35
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Hahahahahaha. gently caress that, try finding 4x110. Holy poo poo, no lie, but damned if I didn't just discover that several of Rota's vintage-style wheels are available in 4 x 110! In 15" wheel sizes, even! http://www.rotawheels.com/product/aleica http://www.rotawheels.com/product/flashback http://www.rotawheels.com/product/grid-concave http://www.rotawheels.com/product/os-mesh http://www.rotawheels.com/product/osr http://www.rotawheels.com/product/rb-rb-rear http://www.rotawheels.com/product/tbt loving hell, this one is available in 18x8.5 w/ 4x110: http://www.rotawheels.com/product/roku OK, I'm done, these are the wheels: http://www.rotawheels.com/product/shakotanshakotan-2  Or maybe the OS-Mesh: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:51
|
|
|
A new contender appears: http://www.rotawheels.com/product/wired 
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 18:57
|
|
|
I want that on an E30
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:01
|
|
|
Loads of people poo poo on Rota wheels but conveniently forget that they're reproducing lots of designs you physically cannot buy from their original manufacturers. And for that reason, those people can go choke on a bowl of dicks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:10
|
|
|
Hmm, couple of designs I like there, though the sizing/offset might not be what I need. I suspect a visit to UpGarage might be necessary if I'm going to get something suitable! Interesting they have so many, though, it really is a limited market for them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
Yeah I never got the hate for Rota, unless you're tracking in which case you want higher quality anyways. For the street they are fine and the selection is phenomenal.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:13
|
|
|
The stuff where they're cloning current production wheels makes me roll my eyes a bit but whatever, definite kudos to them for making stuff in weird bolt patterns and older styles.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:41
|
|
|
They work fine on the track, also. People just like to get uppity for no fuckin reason. Kosei K1s are known to crack real quick, but everyone runs them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:11
|
|
|
Aluminum wheels are wear items on track.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:17
|
|
|
Truth
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:31
|
|
|
Olympic Mathlete posted:Loads of people poo poo on Rota wheels but conveniently forget that they're reproducing lots of designs you physically cannot buy from their original manufacturers. And for that reason, those people can go choke on a bowl of dicks. That’s basically how I feel about it. Not all of us can afford vintage or full race spec rims. I don’t need forged titanium wheels, but maybe I like the look, ya know? I’m just dong street stuff, so who cares? Never mind that a lot of the vintage wheels never came larger than 14”, which is poo poo for tires nowadays.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:07
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:They work fine on the track, also. People just like to get uppity for no fuckin reason. I thought people tend to lean towards forged wheels for track use? I dunno, I don't track a car  I just remember some spec Miata guys or something rambling on about how Rota wheels suck for track use.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:34
|
|
|
Yeah, I heard something of the sort, along with "reps are bad, mmkay?" Yeah, sure moneybags, easy for you to say. I group those dorks with "git gud" online gamer trash. Some of us have bills and/or something like a life.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 23:33
|
|
|
But if you can't afford forged wheels you shouldn't be at the track bro 
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 00:07
|
|
|
Said by the dudes in uber fast cars getting passed by Miatas
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 00:45
|
|
|
Ordered mag-style lug nuts for the Supra wheels from eBay.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 05:25
|
|
|
Got some stuff done on the AE86 this weekend, and found some more broken stuff. First, add to the to-do list: Passenger mirror - no glass Drivers mirror - no knob/loose and floppy Rear seat back hinges and latch strikers missing Rear wiring is routed incorrectly Rear deck panel board is trashed. Carpet on it is iffy. I wanted to figure out why the dome light now worked, but not with the doors, just when turned "on". I pulled the rear seat so I could look at the wiring back there, and access the rear of the door pins to test, etc. Now, the wiring in the trunk was just sort of sitting there, and came up from behind the rear seat in the middle, which didn't look right to me. So I pull the seat, and note a few things. 1: this is not correct wire harness routing:   2: the door pins are not only not connected, but the two inputs in the harness are *connected to each other* - with the plug and wire cut from the pins themselves. Note the red wire in the center of the second picture. Yes, of course they're just twisted under the tape between the two plugs. The whole thing is then just looped around right there and then goes up into the trunk, and just lies there in the trunk floor.   After unplugging everything and pulling it all back into the rear seat area, I looked at where the retainers on the harness are, and Googled a few pictures of AE86 coupe trunk areas, I got it all back in correctly, as far as I can tell. Most of the retainers had the pegs broken off, but the pegs were still in the sheet metal, confirming locations.       Note that the trunk and fuel door release cables were also routed incorrectly along with the wiring. I've no idea how you manage to pull that crap out and pay exactly zero attention to how it went. I mean, the harness retainer clips have tangs specifically for holding the two release cables. It's not rocket surgery. The dome light and "door" light in the dash now work properly. So does the buzzer, however I unplugged it, because it was sounding even with the key out. Need to investigate that. Likely a stuck "key-in" switch. I also vacuumed up all the usual detritus and dust/dirt while the seat and side panel were out. 3: the rear seat backs were basically just sitting there, retained only by gravity and the security hasps on the backs. There were no hinges at the bottom, pr stickers at the top. At least the actual latches and buttons are still there. The outer hinges are still available from Toyota USA for $30 each, and the center hinge appears to be available from Japan for $36, as are the strikers at $23 a piece. Fortunately for me, I found a dude on eBay selling the hinges and safety latches, and after a few messages back and forth he was able to locate the strikers as well, and was willing to throw them into the auction, which was Buy It Now for $45. Done.  Other than that, the rear seat is in good condition. There's a spot on the base where someone either spilled something that hardened, or burned/melted the synthetic cloth, but I can live with it. Needs an overall cleaning, but the entire car needs that. Lots of greasy spots all over. Someone didn't wipe their hands much while working on it, and parts were stored inside. Next up was the AC controls. The faceplate was broken, and someone apparently painted it black, for some unknown, likely stupid, reason.  The paint is thin - you can still barely see the markings if the lights are on:  You'll also note that one of the levers is missing. I was really hoping that the pivot had just broken (common on these, apparently. It's just a plastic clip) and the lever was chilling back there somewhere. To get to the point where you can see the mounting screws for the faceplate, you have to remove the binnacle surrounding the AC controls. To remove that, you have to lower the glovebox, and move/remove the bezel around the instrument cluster. To remove *that* you have to remove the lower driver's side dash. Geeze! Basically, I had to dissassemble half of the dash just to get to the AC controls. There are also two hidden fasteners on the cluster bezel: the headlight and wiper switch have nuts on them like old-school shafted radios. You have to pull the knobs off to get to them. I had to look that up. So I got the controls loose, and sure enough, the pivot clip was missing and both of the levers on that side were just flopping around.  They go in that round spot with the rectangular hole, one on top, and one on bottom.   You can see on the bottom lever what the clip is supposed to look like. And with the lever in place:   Somehow, I completely failed to take a picture of my repair, but it was and 8-32 machine screw of appropriate length, a nylock nut for same, and two small fender washers. I put some plastic rod into the rectangular slot to keep the screw centered (not completely necessary, but I hate half-assing stuff), a washer on top and bottom, and the screw with locknut through the assembly. Tighten until they don't wobble, but still move freely. A little Teflon lube to ensure continued smooth function, and it's good. I squirted some of the Teflon lube into the cable ends while they were exposed, for good measure. Next up was the faceplate. I basically scraped that off with an Xacto scraper blade in my #5 handle, then dealt with the copious amount of adhesive with WD-40, a plastic scraper, and then cleaned up with green cleaner. Goo-gone would have likely worked as well for removing the adhesive, but I'm out at the moment. Didn't take any pictures of the sticky mess, but here it is all clean:  And with the light pipe reinstalled:  And back on the controls themselves, and installed:  Amazingly, the faceplate is still available from Toyota, for $18 (plus $10 shipping.) Dudes are selling them on eBay for $40, but ToyotaPartsDeal.com is my boy. Ordered, and should show up some time this week. I do have all the knobs for the sliders, and everything works the way it should at the right setting. Checked all the bulbs in the assembly while I had it out. While I was in the interior, and getting a pic of the odometer for my records, I noted that the "MOMO" stitching on the steering wheel was pretty nasty.  I decided to do something about that. It's not critical, but clean stuff is just so much more pleasant to work with. Test clean with Simple Green showed promise:  So I went full steam ahead. Simple Green, a toothbrush, and a clean cloth brought me to this:  Much better. It's hard to see in the photo, but it also took the shiny off the leather around the stitching, so I need to go back in and hit it with some mink oil and/or leather treatment. It also occurs to me looking at that photo that I need to get a steering wheel adapter with provisions for a horn, and a horn button. Add that to the list.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2017 19:02
|
|
|
While puttering about, I did notice some rust on the car:  Passenger rear wheel opening, at the front. The other wheel opening is fine, and nothing elsewhere. Must have had a plugged drain there or something. And a shot of the quality 6-1/2" speakers that were (barely) in the rear deck:  I pulled the axle outer race and remains of the seal out of the axle housing  And got the old bearing inner race and retaining collar off of the axle.  I took the time and a borrowed trailer to go get the hydraulic press I bought from my sister's fiancee's estate like 9 months ago, and pressed the bearing on to the axle.   Still need to get the locking collar on, but it needs to be heated first. I'm just glad I remembered to slide the axle retainer on *before* the bearing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2017 19:29
|
|
|
Oh, yeah. The stupid thing started and ran on Saturday like it had never had a problem. Probably means I still need to investigate the ignition.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2017 19:31
|
|
|
Video of start and run, with revving. Stock 4AC engine except for Weber carb, emissions (and cat) delete. Muffler shop exhaust and muffler on stock manifold. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ1MR98TQbg Carb needs tuning, and that possible ignition issue.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2017 19:39
|
|
|
Big FU to previous owners, holy cow. Nice work.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2017 20:26
|
|
|
Yeah this car is PO.text for sure. At least it's easy to work on, I would love one of these cars for a project.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2017 20:32
|
|
|
I have a spare Momo center horn button and contact plate that should fit your adapter if you want it, freeeeeee!
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 01:02
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Big FU to previous owners, holy cow. Nice work. Applebees Appetizer posted:Yeah this car is PO.text for sure. At least it's easy to work on, I would love one of these cars for a project. At least it's not been "lightened" for doriftu, other than the AC condenser, and I suspect that may have been damaged in whatever accident took out the front bumper. DJ Commie posted:I have a spare Momo center horn button and contact plate that should fit your adapter if you want it, freeeeeee! Oh, hell yes, please! Though I'll still need an adapter - this one is solid aluminum. No hole for the OEM contact thingy to go through. Though it does have a hole in the side of it for... something.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 01:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
Darchangel posted:At least it's not been "lightened" for doriftu, other than the AC condenser, and I suspect that may have been damaged in whatever accident took out the front bumper. just a thought...
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 02:11
|
|
