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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:just a thought... I kind of think that's sort of what it's for: a spoke mounted button with a coilly cord. Cord goes into the center then out the side and down the column, with appropriate slack. DJ Commie: PM sent, after I realized you might need to know where to send the horn button. Proper lug nuts came in:  Verified that they're nice snug fit on the wheels.
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Nov 7, 2017 22:59
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Ordered and recieved an owner's manual from Rock Auto. It's for an '85, but there should be almost no difference. I looked for an '87 manual, then any AE86 manual, but. probably due to popularity, they're rare, and start at like $50 for a beat up copy. You can find FWD Corolla ones all day long for $10. Surprisingly, no one has scanned a copy and put it on the web. At least I was able to find the Service Manual and Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in PDF form. While searching, I noticed that Rock Auto had the '85 manual, specified RWD, and all for $18. The picture in the listing as a badly photoshopped image of the FWD manual:  Note that the car on the cover is clearly not an AE86, and the really bad edit to make the "F" an "R". Took a gamble and ordered anyway. It was correct, and the one I got has tha correct cover:  No idea why they use that janky image at Rock Auto. No idea why Bishko only publishes the '85 manual for RWD, but all of the years for FWD. I wanted an owners manual to reference a few things, one of them was the layout of the fuses in the various fuse panels, and what they were for. This info is in the manuals for my wife's Kia, my Crown Vic, and I believe my former RX-7. I'm incredibly disappointed in Toyota - that info was severely lacking. Apparently, the ONLY place to find the fusebox layout is on the cover of the fusebox, which I don't have for the one in the kick panel. That said, it's got all the other usual handy info on how to operate everything in the car, and where stuff is located. I learned that you can disable the trunk release by the driver's seat by turning the key in the trunk lock counter-clockwise, for example. So if you need an AE86 Owner's Manual: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1985,corolla,1.6l+l4+dohc,1274880,literature,owners+manual,909 For the To Do list, I discovered from the manual that the clock should not be displaying with the key off. This may be related to why the door open buzzer sounds even with the key off and out. There's power on the 12V accessory circuit when it shouldn't be, it seems. Will have to investigate that. Also, the door lock lever on the driver's side door does nothing. Heading to Horror Fraught to pick up a bearing seperator kit to use as support to press the bearing lock collar on, since my borrowed arbor plates have cutouts that are too large on all four sides. I'll be buying a set of straight-edged plates shortly, as well. Only about $50-60 on eBay for some 1" x 4" or 2" x 2" plates, depending on size.
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Nov 8, 2017 17:13
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Hardware for rear seat backs procured: And bearing splitter so I can press the locking collar back on.   Hopefully will get that done this weekend, at which point the car will be mobile, then I can slap the front turn signals back on and go get it inspected so I can register it.
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Nov 9, 2017 20:35
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This is a good thread with a bad car getting less bad. I dig it.
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Nov 10, 2017 00:31
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Larrymer posted:This is a good thread with a bad car getting less bad. I dig it. Thanks. I like making cars work after some dingleberry has let things go. Every car I've ever owned has gone this route. Fix all the things the PO let go - make dome lights work, glove boxes, all that little stuff that people ignore. Fix any actual drivability issues. Bring maintenance up to date. Then start working on cosmetics, and while I'm at it, add features that weren't optioned. I've done that with my Cutlass, both my RX-7s, my Cherokee, and my Crown Vic. Stuff like power mirrors, power windows, power locks, automatic headlights, convenience lighting, security systems, rear wipers, etc. The car is solid, it just suffered from a bit of neglect, and the beginnings of doriftu disease (wherein a car is ruined on the altar of sideways driving, yet inevitably drifted very little.) At the very least it will get keyless entry, probably power mirrors if I can find some. Ditto power windows. Already has cruise if I can find the control stalk, and AC.
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Nov 10, 2017 01:01
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Darchangel posted:I learned that you can disable the trunk release by the driver's seat by turning the key in the trunk lock counter-clockwise, for example. Interesting on the trunk lock. I know Honda used to put a key lock next to the interior trunk release handle, but all you have to do to get around that is get to the cable (just yank up the doorsill trim and it's right there). On my Saturn, there's a switch in the trunk lid that disables the (electric) release. I'd prefer it if it just disabled the interior button and not the keyfob trunk release, but I disable it when I park at home at night (not the best neighborhood, the interior release button is always-on, and I have an amp + sub + a lot of stuff for work back there). Might want to check the radio wiring, you might find the source of your always-on accessory backfeed there. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 04:26
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Okd3Oyii7E just jam until you cant. E: when you can't jam: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fl0ahDKR0QU
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Nov 10, 2017 09:08
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Interesting on the trunk lock. I know Honda used to put a key lock next to the interior trunk release handle, but all you have to do to get around that is get to the cable (just yank up the doorsill trim and it's right there). On my Saturn, there's a switch in the trunk lid that disables the (electric) release. I'd prefer it if it just disabled the interior button and not the keyfob trunk release, but I disable it when I park at home at night (not the best neighborhood, the interior release button is always-on, and I have an amp + sub + a lot of stuff for work back there). Oh, yeah, I'll get to it. First place to check, since it's got aftermarket wiring in there. Could also be the ignition switch, though the gauges and dash indicators aren't on, so likely past that. Dannywilson posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Okd3Oyii7E Good stuff. I'll admit to have really listened to only one Warren Zevon piece (you know which one.) So, the FSM says to heat the axle bearing locking collar to 302F before pressing it on, presumably because it's an interference fit, as opposed to the actual bearing's "tight" fit. Spcifically, it says to heat it ot 302F in an oil bath. Well, I don't have a stove or oven in the garage (maybe I should by a hot plate some day?) and I definitely don't want to heat up petroleum in the kitchen. I've no desire for my food to taste like the underside of a car - I get enough of that working on them - so what's to do? It didn't say "petroleum", and I presume it's just so the thing heats evenly, so:   It seems to have worked:    And the bearing separator as a pressing platform was adequate as well. While I was waiting for the bearing to heat, I decided to install the rear seatback hinges and strikers. Discovered some not great news when I opened the door:  It's hard to tell, but that's standing water in the underseat area on the driver's side. It rained quite a bit earlier in the week. It's drained to the level of holes in the side that go through to the rocker. That's about 1/4" deep. I could pull the rubber plug there and most of it would drain if the car were level. So now add to the list figure out where that leak is. First thing I'll check is the sunroof drains. No one ever cleans those. I once had to do that for my sister in law, because here Acura Legend was raining in the back seat. A quick blast with the air compressor usually takes care of it. Other than that, basically the windows are the only other thing I can think of. Anyway, after locating 7 x M6 and 4 x M8 bolts of appropriate length (protip: grab ever loose bolt you see, and keep every bolt you remove when in the wrecking yard) I've got seatback mountings:     Not shown, but the driver's side striker even has the plastic trim to hide the bolts. One of the things I find about this car interesting is that the blue vinyl covers on the rear wheel wells are exposed when the seat and all the trim is in. On the SR5s, there is not an additional seat bolster that goes there. I might want to carpet that later. Annoyingly, I need to find that leak before I put the seat back in. I'll install the new rear axle seal and axle either Saturday after the WannaGoFast 1/2 mile event, or Sunday, and then take it around the block (if it still starts...) I'm quite excited. I plan to pull the driver's side wheel and brake drum to check how messy it is on that side, clean as needed, and replace the axle seal on that side if there's grease in the drum. I *might* pull the third member to check the gears, and change the lube. I do have a 4.10:1 third member I can put in, which is slightly better than the 3.909:1 mine should have. Rejoice! It's about to move again! Though I'll have to be careful - the only tires I have are bald or worse. Time to abuse the credit card for another pair of tires.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:01
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The gauges and indicators wouldn't come on until the ignition switch was in the run position; radio would be powered by the accessory circuit. So if the radio is backfeeding the accessory circuit, only other accessories would have power (.. such as the clock, I don't think there's much else on that car that would have power in accessory). But it sounds like you already have an issue with the ignition switch anyway, right? May as well check the radio, and if that's okay, throw a new ignition switch at it to get the key-in reminder to work properly. I'd guess sunroof drains as well. Just had to deal with that on my car; I got a shower last time I took it through a car wash (GM decided to put one way drains on the ends... and they clog up with road debris, easiest fix is to just cut the valve off). But I've also had water show up inside of cars from leaking taillight gaskets. That's usually shown up in the spare tire well, but I've had it make it all the way up to the back seats and floors before. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 18:39
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Darchangel posted:Oh, yeah, I'll get to it. First place to check, since it's got aftermarket wiring in there. Could also be the ignition switch, though the gauges and dash indicators aren't on, so likely past that. You need to listen to more Zevon. This: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUb0C0iI_GE, for example. As for your oil bath, technically that peanut oil will go rancid and break down eventually (though it's not like you'll really notice the smell given where it's going). If you have to do it again, use mineral oil. It won't go rancid or break down but it's still food-safe (since you can ingest it for things like constipation) and it won't make your kitchen smell like a quick-lube.
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Nov 10, 2017 18:57
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:The gauges and indicators wouldn't come on until the ignition switch was in the run position; radio would be powered by the accessory circuit. So if the radio is backfeeding the accessory circuit, only other accessories would have power (.. such as the clock, I don't think there's much else on that car that would have power in accessory). But it sounds like you already have an issue with the ignition switch anyway, right? May as well check the radio, and if that's okay, throw a new ignition switch at it to get the key-in reminder to work properly. Not sure if there's anything wrong with the ignition switch. I've got the wiring diagrams, so I'll spend some quality time with it and the car. Trunk was dry. I'll start with the drains, then see what the water hose reveals. Magnus Praeda posted:You need to listen to more Zevon. This: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUb0C0iI_GE, for example. "Hit somebody!" That's awesome. quote:As for your oil bath, technically that peanut oil will go rancid and break down eventually (though it's not like you'll really notice the smell given where it's going). If you have to do it again, use mineral oil. It won't go rancid or break down but it's still food-safe (since you can ingest it for things like constipation) and it won't make your kitchen smell like a quick-lube. I didn't even think about mineral oil. Duh.
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Nov 10, 2017 22:13
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Darchangel posted:
I'm pretty sure that's David Letterman yelling "Hit somebody!".
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Nov 11, 2017 11:20
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This is like watching a trainwreck in reverse.
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Nov 11, 2017 15:11
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yaffle posted:I'm pretty sure that's David Letterman yelling "Hit somebody!". It is, they were friends. Another bit of a trivia: Kevin Smith has been trying to make a movie based on the song for years, but ran into a snag when the person he wrote as the lead left to do another movie. That person was Sean William Scott, and the movie was Goon.
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Nov 12, 2017 01:06
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I rather enjoyed Slap Shot, despite not being a sports person. Hockey has enough action that it keeps my attention if I happen to watch it. Strategy bores me (because I'm no good at it. Seriously, me and strategy games, no good. I get murdered every time in Starcraft. Quickly.) Oh, holy poo poo - go Google "zerg rush"! I momentarily spaced (heh) on the game's name, and Googled it, and was very surprised. So, in AE86 stuff. Didn't get much done. There was the 1/2 mile event on Saturday, so not a lot, then. At least the forecast rain didn't appear on Sunday, and the temp was mild if overcast. Made for a kind of depressing day, and I had to basically force myself to go outside and do *something*, thanks to a mild case of SAD, or possibly sadbrains. Of course, that meant that things not going right tended to annoy me more than normal, and boy... I'd let the battery charge on my smart charger since Friday, so it was raring to go, at least. On Sunday, I tried to get it started, and it would spin over like a champ, and cough a bit, but never really start. That "progressed" to the started going "clunk", and the entire car losing power when I tried to start it. In my experience, that's usually a bad battery terminal. In my zeal to fix that, I mangled it. The positive terminal was one of those clamp-on lead terminals, with the OEM ring terminals using one of the clamp's bolts, rather than the actual cable being clamped in, thank God. I managed to strip the cast-in nut out of the lead on that one, so decided to go get a lead free OEM-type terminal from O'Reillys. That got me powered up again. Checking spark with my spark-lug-with-a-clamp, I got nothing. The distributor/coil is getting power at least to the connector. Then the whole thing took a poo poo, and the car has no power at all. Still good at the battery, the under-hood fuse box, and one fuse in the foot well, but nothing in ACC or ON. Frustrated all to hell, I gave up on that, and proceeded to the rear axle, since it's not going anywhere without that no matter how well it runs, and I want it on the ground so it doesn't look quite so non-operable. I suspect the ignition switch, but I need to remove the column cover, etc. to get to that. Later. So, on the the rear axle it is. I did do a little work on Saturday after the races. I pulled the left drum and axle to check it's condition, change out the axle seal since I had one, and put in the new shoes. It was plenty messy on that side, too:    Nowhere near as greasy as the other side (and, it's probably not actually grease. More on that in a moment.) Axle out, and it's still not awful, though the shoes are soaked.   Some quality time with purple cleaner and my pressure washer got it much nicer:  Huh. I think I put that upper spring back in upside down. Need to watch that and make sure it doesn't contact the adjuster when I reassemble. At any rate, the bearing in the left axle felt fine. Rolls smoothly, with very little side-to side play. Grease seals are intact ("permanently" lubed bearing.) I'd previously had a little trouble getting the right axle slipped into the diff, so I decided to take a closer look at the splines. Yep, they suffered a little damage, either when it came out, or from hamfisted attempts to shove it back in. Possibly when they flat-bedded it to my place.  Kind of hard to see, but the chamfered ends are mashed out so the spline groove is obstructed a bit. Here's the unmolested left side axle for comparison.  And here's the right-side axle partially restored using a couple of triangular files. The grooves to the right of the spline in the center are done. Grooves to the left are still buggered.  We'll see if I did it right when I go to put it back in. Saturday morning, I wandered out side to this:  Nuts. Definitely not oil, not water, and that pavement was definitely clean last night from all the power washing. Taste (not really) and texture test said brake fluid, and yeah, the backing plate and hardware was wet from the cylinder down.  Right side in the picture mainly. It didn't capture well. I guess that's why there was a wheel cylinder assembly in the rear brake and bearing parts that came with the car. The right side seems to be fine, or at least not leaking just from gravity. Since I had to undo the brake line anyway, I decided to clean the backing plate up. Actually needed to get it partially out of the way in any case, since I had new gaskets for the housing ends. I'd scrubbed it a bit blindly, and power washed it from the other side when I did the front side, but it was still messy. Didn't get a pic of the mess, but just imaging the usual layer of oil mixed with dirt to form a gritty past covering the lower half of the backing plate. Here it is clean:  And painted:  I use Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy for chassis bits. It's tough (epoxy enamel, duh) and the gloss helps keep stuff from sticking. I've used it successfully on several of my cars. All the hardware cleaned up, plus the new gasket.  I have gaskets for the axle retainer as well. While that was drying, I moved on the right side. Since the system is already opened, go ahead an pull the brake line on that side.  This side was about as greasy as the other. I'm leaving the brakes assembled as a reference for the left side. Yes, I've been there before. For the record, I hate (hate, hate, hate!) drum brakes, and if I can find a GT-S axle that's not $rape, I'll buy it. On this one, I decided to release the parking brake cable and work on it somewhere that's not on the ground. At this point, I like to say that there is a certain Toyota engineer, that I want to kick repeatedly in the balls, for designing the barbs on the end of the cable housing. Homeboy decided that "three" was the appropriate number of the counting, not four, and not two, unless thou dost proceed to 3 (five is right out.) Because there are three barbs, you can't, say, squeeze two at a time with pliers. I assume that the proper Toyota tool J-stroke-3677758938-B or whatever is a tube or some-such with the exact diameter to squeeze all there just right so you can pull it through, but gently caress you home mechanic. A 1/2" box-end wrench *almost* does it, but I could only get two at a time through. I probably should have measured and made a tool out of flat bar of something, assuming I have the right drill size, but I cheated (after getting *very* angry) and used a Dremel cutoff wheel to shorten the barb that stuck up the most, at which point I could get the two I could release through, *then* release that third one. Holy poo poo I fought that for 45 minutes or an hour. At any rate, I won, and here it is all cleaned up and up where I can reach it easily:  That's the remains of the OEM black paint (I'm amazed that they painted it from the factory, really,) not dirt/grease. You may notice a bit of "not round" down there at the bottom. Looks like the prior owner was up to speed when he lost the axle. It's ground down quite a bit. I'm not sure what's up with the curled up outside edge of the backing plate seen in the previous picture. Clearancing to get the drum back on?   I trimmed back the ground-down bit a little more to make sure that the drum cleared.   I also straightened out the edge as much as possible with pliers, then a bodywork hammer against the drum. That actually worked fairly well. I neglected to get pictures, but it looked 100% better. You can see a little of that in the two pictures above, which are after pliers but before hammer. And painted:  I could have just slapped everything back together after degreasing the insides and changing the pads, but I don't work that way, at least on cars I care about. Particularly if I might be working on them again. I like everything as clean as is practical. Less mess just makes everything easier to deal with. And painted, because rust is my mortal enemy that I cannot abide. I might be able to put this poo poo back together this week. Getting off work at 6 plus winter plus time change makes doing stuff after work a pain, and I haven't got the garage habitable for cars despite removing the major obstruction (AKA, an non-op RX-7) that was in there. I long to be able to roll poo poo in there to work on. Soon. Need to build some custom shelves on the left side like I've already done on the right, then reorganize. And then, one of those Danmar short two-post lifts. I only have a standard 8' ceiling, and no way to make it taller due to the design of my roof, not to mention the garage door. Next house will have a shop, or room for one...
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Nov 13, 2017 17:38
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I forgot to mention that I did figure out the clock on and buzzer issue. That was pure dumbass on my part, plus a little bit of old car worn out. I was not actually turning the car all the way off. The damned key will come out with the ignition in any position, and I had failed to notice that it has a button to push to get the key all the way to off since it''s a manual. Once I actually turned the ignition off and removed the key, the clock turns off, and the buzzer stops unless the key is actually in the ignition. So small victories. Of course, now the buzzer doesn't do anything at all, and neither does the rest of the car.
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Nov 13, 2017 17:43
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Derp! Yeah, having to press a button to get the key out on a manual equipped car was pretty common in the 80s. I don't think Honda did it (neither of my 88 Accords did that), but Toyota definitely did, and a lot of domestic stuff did. I don't really get why - at first it'll remind you to double check that the parking brake is on/car is in gear, but it becomes muscle memory pretty quickly. Probably wouldn't hurt to get a new ignition cylinder and keys; a good locksmith should be able to figure out what the key should have looked like based on the least-worn key you have, cut a matching key, and setup the lock cylinder for you. I'd assume the only other lock cylinder worn nearly as bad would be the driver's door lock.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:17
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Derp! Yeah, having to press a button to get the key out on a manual equipped car was pretty common in the 80s. I don't think Honda did it (neither of my 88 Accords did that), but Toyota definitely did, and a lot of domestic stuff did. I don't really get why - at first it'll remind you to double check that the parking brake is on/car is in gear, but it becomes muscle memory pretty quickly. I've seen a few of the button style ignition locks. Most newer ones use the style that makes you push the key in a little further to turn it to lock. That one I do by rote in my wife's Kia. I was planning on pulling the passenger-side tumbler and taking it to a locksmith to have a key made. The worn out key has no trouble with the driver's door, the ignition, or the trunk. Haven't tried the passenger door.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:32
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Derp! Yeah, having to press a button to get the key out on a manual equipped car was pretty common in the 80s. I don't think Honda did it (neither of my 88 Accords did that), but Toyota definitely did, and a lot of domestic stuff did. I don't really get why - at first it'll remind you to double check that the parking brake is on/car is in gear, but it becomes muscle memory pretty quickly. Ford loving loved the buttons/levers for key release. Learned on one of my dad's coworker's '89 Ranger and it had a little button. I had a '00 Mustang and it had a little button/lever thing right above the ignition to push to get the key out, too. I can only assume they drug that out on the Mustangs through at least '04 when that body style ended. Don't remember if the ST twins had them when I drove those. Haven't driven anything else, but it wouldn't surprise me if they still had something in place.
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Nov 13, 2017 22:36
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Ford loving loved the buttons/levers for key release. Learned on one of my dad's coworker's '89 Ranger and it had a little button. I had a '00 Mustang and it had a little button/lever thing right above the ignition to push to get the key out, too. I can only assume they drug that out on the Mustangs through at least '04 when that body style ended. Don't remember if the ST twins had them when I drove those. Haven't driven anything else, but it wouldn't surprise me if they still had something in place. It wouldn't have been a problem if the key didn't just pull out of the ignition whenever. I'd have figured it out pretty quick when it wouldn't give me the key back.
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Nov 14, 2017 00:34
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Don't re-use oil soaked shoes!
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Nov 14, 2017 02:45
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DJ Commie posted:Don't re-use oil soaked shoes! I know. Not gonna. New Centric ceramics came with the car. I just kept the right side together for reference. You never can clean soaked shoes enough to be fully effective again. Took a relax day Monday, watched a couple episodes of Stranger Things 2 (6 and 7, if you really want to know.) The AC panel overlay and dash clock surround came in from ToyotaPartsDeal.com. I love how many parts are still available. Best part is folks are selling the overlay for $40 on eBay - TPD wanted $18 + shipping ($10 or so - didn't change when I added the clock bezel). If there weren't several already on eBay, I'd buy 10 and sell them. Bet shipping for all 10 would still be $10, since they're flat. The arbor plates for my press also came in, and it was a hilarious abuse of USPS' flat-rate Priority Mail pouch. Literally 10 or 15 pounds of 3/4" steel plate in that pouch. Bet it surprised more than one postal worker.
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Nov 14, 2017 16:00
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Darchangel posted:I know. Not gonna. New Centric ceramics came with the car. I just kept the right side together for reference. You never can clean soaked shoes enough to be fully effective again. I don't know that this would work on cars but I got brake fluid on my mountain bike's pads and they squeaked like crazy afterwards and felt like poo poo. Internet suggested taking a torch to the pads themselves and burn all the stuff off. They felt fine and didn't squeak afterwards, I was amazed. They were brand new so I didn't want to throw them away before giving it a shot.
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Nov 14, 2017 16:27
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Larrymer posted:I don't know that this would work on cars but I got brake fluid on my mountain bike's pads and they squeaked like crazy afterwards and felt like poo poo. Internet suggested taking a torch to the pads themselves and burn all the stuff off. They felt fine and didn't squeak afterwards, I was amazed. They were brand new so I didn't want to throw them away before giving it a shot. It might. I've got new shoes, so I won't bother at this time, but I'm keeping the old set just in case they suddenly get hard to find or something. If you have the steel bit, you can always get them relined, supposedly. I wonder how hard it would be to fit RX-7 FB rear disks? I know the caliper brackets would need to be made or modified. Should be able to use FC base-model rotors (correct bolt pattern.) Probably too much effort for the stock 6.5" rearend.
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Nov 14, 2017 20:24
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Ford loving loved the buttons/levers for key release. Darchangel, great to see all the work done so far!
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Nov 14, 2017 23:37
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Chris Knight posted:Yeah my old Lynx had that. Thanks. I just hope I get it operable before running out of time/money/love/fucks.
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Nov 14, 2017 23:42
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Darchangel posted:Thanks. I just hope I get it operable before running out of time/money/love/fucks. 80's Toyotas seem to have a great way of giving back a lot if you give it a little. I experienced it numerous times both with my fx16 gts and my MR2. You'll get her there, and it'll be fun as poo poo.
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Nov 14, 2017 23:56
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Darchangel posted:It might. I've got new shoes, so I won't bother at this time, but I'm keeping the old set just in case they suddenly get hard to find or something. Yeah, don't blame you if you have new stuff already. It was just one of those "thank god for the internet" moments for me because I figured I'd have to replace them and it worked like a charm.
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Nov 16, 2017 14:33
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Larrymer posted:Yeah, don't blame you if you have new stuff already. It was just one of those "thank god for the internet" moments for me because I figured I'd have to replace them and it worked like a charm. Hitting them with a torch makes sense. Burnt oil/grease/brake fluid isn't any of those things any more. In a pinch, I'd give it a try, certainly. Stuff that was on there was half worn out anyway, though. In that vein, I found the time over the last two evenings to reassemble the brakes: Driver's side first, since it was the one that was completely disassembled:   Then on the passenger's side. Before. Cleaned, but with old, greasy shoes:  After, with new shiny shoes:  Axle went in without a fuss, presumable thanks to the cleanup work I did in the splines:   Buttoned up:  And sitting on the ground properly, finally:   Now to figure out why I'm getting no power in ACC and ON. First thought is the ignition switch. I've got all the relevant wiring diagrams printed out and I've gone over them, so I know what to check. Thankfully, Toyota separated out a diagram just for power distribution. Main fusible links at the positive battery post are good, but the middle one, which should be getting 12V from one of the other mains, isn't. It's not needed in my car (some sort of carb preheat that the OEM carb had, but my Weber does not), but it should still be powered off of the output of one of the two other main fusible links. The fact that it's not says that there's an issue in the wiring between the two fusible links. There is exactly one fuse in the inside fuse panel that's getting power. If it's not raining, that's what I will be doing this weekend, and possibly abusing my Discount Tire credit card to get a pair of tires for the other two Supra wheels.
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Nov 16, 2017 16:38
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Oh, brake pedal is still really squishy after bleeding. Goes all the way to the floor unless you pump it. Fluid was coming out cleanly, but may still have some trapped air, or the master may be buggered.
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Nov 16, 2017 16:42
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Derp! Yeah, having to press a button to get the key out on a manual equipped car was pretty common in the 80s. I don't think Honda did it (neither of my 88 Accords did that), but Toyota definitely did, and a lot of domestic stuff did. I don't really get why The idea is to make it impossible to accidentally lock the column while the vehicle's in motion, even if you have to shut the engine off. An auto just won't let you lock the column unless it's in park, with a manual a button is a much more positive way of making pulling the key a deliberate action than a push-in detent, though both are used. Did you adjust the new brakes right up Darchangel? The self-adjusters won't chooch without the car rolling, and a poo poo pedal from bad adjustment has bit me before.
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Nov 16, 2017 17:07
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:The idea is to make it impossible to accidentally lock the column while the vehicle's in motion, even if you have to shut the engine off. An auto just won't let you lock the column unless it's in park, with a manual a button is a much more positive way of making pulling the key a deliberate action than a push-in detent, though both are used. Oh, I know what the button is for, but I literally forgot that it was a thing. None of my current cars have it, instead depending on the "push-in-to-turn" method, that has become automatic to me now. My '79 RX-7 just doesn't have the safety feature. It wouldn't have been a puzzle if the key hadn't been worn out enough to come out in that position. I didn't adjust the rear brakes, but possibly not tight enough. I won't be needing them if I can't figure out the power issue, I guess.
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Nov 16, 2017 19:48
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This motherfucker, right here: Looks OK, right? Imagine it with the clear plastic cover on it.  Different angle. Can you see the issue?  How about now? Damned thing didn't have the courtesy to cleanly blow. No, it would test OK, and then it actually worked for a bit, until it wiggled just right and didn't. I really began to suspect it when it went "tink" and I could feel the vibration, like contacts in a relay, when I plugged it back in while testing the wiring harness. "Tink" is not something a fusible link should do. Popped the cover off of it an looked closely, and there it was. It would make contact, work for a bit, then heat up and not make contact. Replaced it with one from my stash (y'all grab every fuse you see in the wrecking yard, too, right?) and I've got power. Replacement is a different type with the actual link held between two posts so it should be obvious if it blows. Thing still wont fire, but at least I can effectively troubleshoot that issue now. Turns over great - starter is strong, tach gets signal, so the magnetic pickup is working. Spark plugs were kind of nasty - cleaned them up. No spark using my test spark plug. Plug wire tested OK at about 7 K ohms. I'm thinking either coil or igniter, or connection to/between them. That's this weekend's problem. Then make sure the brakes work right, adjust parking brake, and hopefully get it inspected so I can register it.
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Nov 17, 2017 16:12
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Wow I would have never caught that and i probably would have went insane trying to figure out what was wrong. Nothing worse than electrical issues. So when are you gonna drill all the rivets out of the wide body kit 
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Nov 17, 2017 16:53
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Wow I would have never caught that and i probably would have went insane trying to figure out what was wrong. Nothing worse than electrical issues. At some point I probably would have changed the fusible links out on principle. The little "tink" was what set my mind in motion, though. That was luck. Body kit improvement is a ways down the list. For one I need to decide if I'm going to try to weld up all the holes, braze them, or just bog over them.
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Nov 17, 2017 20:11
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Ffffffffff... That Craigslist rough Celica with a running 1UZ i posted a while back is down to $500...
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Nov 18, 2017 01:05
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Doooooo eeeeeeet
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Nov 18, 2017 01:14
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Darchangel posted:Ffffffffff... There's $500 worth of lessons in there, this is the cheapest education you can have. Put on an annoying persona, record it doing burnies for YouTube, make some money.
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Nov 18, 2017 01:15
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Honestly, if my wife's car didn't need that same $500 for struts and bushings... So, did a little work on the Crayola. Started with pulling the cap and rotor, and pretty much stopped there.   Shouldn't the middle end be shiny from rubbing on the cap contact?  Oh. Well. Plug wire contacts weren't looking fantastic either:   At this point, I would like to commend Toyota for managing to design a distributor cap for an economy engine in an economy car that is complex enough to cost $40, *if* you can find someone who has one in stock. Everyone local had to order it. So off to Rock Auto I went, where the Bosch version is normally $20 or so, *but* there was a wholesaler closeout for $9. So while I was at it I picked up the rotor (two, actually - the listings say on up to 5/87, and another from 5/87 on. Mine *is* a 5/87, so it should use the second, but the one that was on it looked like the earlier part. They're $3 each, so I bought both,) and NGK platinum spark plugs and spark plug leads. All for about $50, including shipping (from two different warehouses.  Rock Auto.)I looked up how to test the coil and ignitors, and what the impedance values should be, and will test that before all the new stuff goes in, just in case. While I was under the hood I reattached the front lighting wire harness to its panel clips, and rerouted the horn bit that someone had run the wrong way. After I came back out from ordering all the ignition stuff, I finally put this:  and this:  Which I have had for a week or so, in.     Much better! And I can tell where the air is set to go. I have the knobs. I'll put them back on when I reassemble the dash. Speaking of the dash, I pulled the carpet cover off to put the clock bezel in, and documented the condition while I had it off. Not as many cracks as I expected, really.    Next up: The passenger outside door handle that doesnt work, and the driver's insde door lock knob that also doesn't work. This turned out to be easy. the passenger door mechanism just needed to be lubed, and the plastic clip that holds the driver's door lock rod into its hole at the latch end had shattered. I replaced it from bits I've collected (though they're readily available on the internet now.) and all is well. Lubed up the window tracks and mechanisms while I was in there. Both doors' water shields need to be replaced. I'll cut that from some plastic sheeting soon. The passenger door panel is not terrible - just some damage to the hardboard at the rear edge. I may be able to fix it by impregnating it with some resin or something. The driver's doo panel is a mess:    The fabric and vinyl are in good shape, for a wonder, I was thinking that I could just remove the upholstery and reapply it to some masonite cut to fit, bt I noticed that the panel actually has a depression molded into it surrounding the armrest area. You can see the contour in that last pic easily. Not sure what to do there. Hope the upholstery will lie properly on a flat board? Maybe try and cut layered masonite with a beveled edge. Going to have to make a new cover for the rear deck as well. That one's in pieces as well. I think I mentioned that earlier. Also noted while in the driver's door was this, just hanging out loose in the bottom of the door:   That's the lower part of the window track at the rear of the door. I've no idea why it was loose, or if if it became bent and twisted before or after. I straightened it out, found a proper bolt for it, and reattached it to the upper track and the door:   (BTW, the upper rod in the previous pic is the lock rod, with it's new clip. White instead of the Toyota OEM orange, but it works.)  With the window down:  That's all for today. Add to the to-do list: Rebuild door panels. Replace water shields. Remove from to-do list: HVAC controls overlay Clock bezel Driver's door lock knob Passenger door outside handle
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Nov 19, 2017 10:05
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 01:55 |
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The contoured door panels represent an opportunity to learn how to make molds for carbon fiber replacements. And then start a business making artisinal cf parts.
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Nov 19, 2017 16:39
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