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Tai-Pan posted:I won't buy a wiring-era Mercedes regardless of flood damage. I went there. Twice.
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Nov 9, 2017 02:59
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cursedshitbox posted:I went there. Twice. Well, they are nice when they run? I feel you though, every time I see one of the S/SL/CL600 v12s come up for sale (for the price of a happy mea)l I have to work hard to stop myself. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
Wait, are you talking about the water leak from the coolant reservoir? Continuous exposure to super-hot water for thousands of miles is pretty different situation. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 9, 2017 03:01
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
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Nov 9, 2017 03:03
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Tai-Pan posted:Well, they are nice when they run? Yeah I used to build harnesses and rebuild ETAs (think drive by wire throttlebody) + recalibration for the M104/M120 cars. One of the two was the best car I'd ever owned. the other got sold due to unrelated problems. You still couldn't pay me enough to deal with another flood car.
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Nov 9, 2017 03:12
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Freshwater?
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Nov 9, 2017 03:15
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Tai-Pan posted:Freshwater? Floodwater != freshwater How many goddamn loving times do you need to be told that?
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Nov 9, 2017 03:18
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Flood water isn't fresh water. I don't think anyone's worried about soaking wires, I've accidentally left wires outside in the rain and snow for an entire winter and found them when it all melted and there was no problem with them. There is a problem when you've got all those dissimilar metals crimped, plugged, soldered, etc together. Edit: You should buy a flood car, people will surely help you with it too. No one's going to say it's a good idea though. craig588 fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 9, 2017 03:19
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Lets talk about flooded dildos So we all know that Houston did a very successful impersonation of "Summer Cummings Enema drowns Atlantis" in preparation for Halloween this year. And being the Oil-rich town that it is, we are seeing an _ocean_ of interesting dildos float up on extremedildos.com Now, I don't know much about flood-damaged dildos. Other than the standard "its bad" and "stay away". But those are rules for other people with tight asses. I wan't to talk about what might actually be opportunities and what the steps would be to salvage some of these fabulous toys. Having no knowledge in this area, I am interested in hearing other people's experiences. Some facts we know: 1) Almost all of these were damaged by enema water, not enema acid, so we have that going for us 2) Very few of these dildos were driven hard up the rear end because most people that have dildos are not brave enough to drive them balls deep. So, we should expect most of the silicon to be undamaged. This big one looks pretty good. Unfortunately, we don't see the mark where the inserted into rear end line was. NWS NWS https://i.imgur.com/mmEpUmF.jpg NWS NWS But, since they clearly sprayed the balls with enema flood, it means they _needed_ to spray the rest , which means it isn't ideal. Maybe all it needs are the veins below the insert line replaced? However, at least we know the lubricant still works, so this could be interesting. Yikes, this dildo was fully inserted. Ignoring all the cosmetic and interior leaking, it means it will need all the silicone replaced, all the packaging etc Seems like this is destined to be a parts dildo? Anyone think otherwise? NWS NWS https://imgur.com/PipckBl NWS NWS Okay, so what about ones that might actually be worth considering buying? Now we are talking. These older dildos don't really have much in the way of electronics anyway, so fluids and interior work is all that it is generally exposed to - NWS NWS https://i.imgur.com/1B9X3T5.jpg NWS NWS Not a bad insert line. Barely covered the tip. Sure the interior might need a lot of work, but nothing acid dip couldn't solve. Hmmmm are those balls on there? What is this dildo hiding under that new jorts? NWS NWS https://i.imgur.com/rpTG4Xk.jpg NWS NWS Now I am not naive. I know that some of these dildos are going to sell for huge money just for the silicone I would just like to hear experiences with fixing flood enema dildos and what people think the opportunities might be here. I reckon ESPECIALLY if you get the modern ones with petroleum sheathing they will be okay and I bet old school dildos with less computers will fare better (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Nov 9, 2017 08:57
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da fuq did I just read  Tai-Pan posted:Wait, are you talking about the water leak from the coolant reservoir? The reservoir is just that, a reservoir. It's not full of hot coolant in 99% of cases, it's basically an overflow that happens to be in-line (and the highest point in the system) and pressurized. It was a poorly sealed sensor combined with a harness/wire design that allowed coolant to wick through the entire car, all the way to the taillights if no other symptoms forced the car into a shop before then. Generally the cluster would lose its poo poo first, but occasionally you'd find blinker fluid in the tail lights with no other symptoms. Mercedes learned this lesson too. My point is, you can't rely on the insulation to keep liquid out of the wire. Automotive wiring is generally pretty cheaply made, and any connection is a potential ingress point for liquid. If the car was removed from the flood quickly, then I MIGHT trust the harness. If it was dried out quickly, then I might even trust some of the electronics that didn't get submerged (safety stuff, like ABS controllers and airbag controllers, would be replaced no matter what). But this would only be for a car for myself, or a track car. You'll never be able to resell it easily, since the title will be branded as a flood car. That said, I HAVE repaired a car that was flooded, but it was my own car, flooded by my own stupidity. The only things damaged were the engine (hydrolocked and chucked a rod out of the block) and carpet, but that was a pretty simple car by today's standards (1996 Honda Civic, no ABS), and no electronics got submerged. It was dried out pretty quickly, and insurance covered the engine. It still smelled pretty gross on hot days after that. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 9, 2017 09:10
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The only thing with more piss contaminated water in it than those cars is that well you're digging. Please buy flood damaged car and start restoring it. *unzips*
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Nov 9, 2017 09:52
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Settle down weirdos.
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Nov 9, 2017 10:37
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But it was just getting interesting...
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Nov 9, 2017 12:01
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EVERYWHERE 
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I dunno my Miata just spent 20 years getting rained on sporadically in Hawaii and it's already an electrical nightmare with every single connector in various states of failing due to corrosion. Goon in a well!
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Nov 9, 2017 12:37
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Theres also a MASSIVE difference between the connectors you'll see in the engine bay or under the vehicle or on an oil rig vs the connectors inside the vehicle in terms of water tightness. Dont forget that Marty and Moog wrote off the original gramps subaru wagon and wrecked it because it got caught outside in a rainstorm without a windshield and soaked all the interior under dash electricals and components. And that these are the same guys who jammed an STI motor into a VW bug, Built an 11 second subaru wagon, supercharged a classic mini, put a honda in a mini, built a 9 second toyota cresta and bought a kei car in japan, sawed it in half, shipped the two halves back to australia and then cut the floor out of an AU spec car so they could put the JDM Kei car power train and bits into it. And they wrote off a car and junked it because it got RAIN inside it
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Nov 9, 2017 12:42
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The only thing flood cars are good for is recovering parts.
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Nov 9, 2017 14:15
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Adiabatic posted:Also you are correct in all of your thinking and you should definitely buy a flood car and post a thread post haste. This. Stop trying to talk sense into him guys, I want to read a new crazy thread.
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Nov 9, 2017 15:50
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Ahaha this guy. OP go ahead and buy a flooded exotic/semi-exotic and let us know how it goes since you already made up your mind. Electrical faults are trivial to trace and repair on cars anyway and not maddeningly frustrating, tedious, and expensive at all.
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Nov 9, 2017 20:44
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Y'all are turning into Automotive Banality. Any project is a good project, if you get into it at the right price with the right expectations. OP never said "Hey, I want to buy a flooded Porsche and DD it. If OP came in with pics of a shell he bought as a project, there'd be much support and excitement... why is it instantly the worst idea ever just because it's been in a bit of shitwater?
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Nov 9, 2017 20:49
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I say it is fine to take a chance on a flood car and there are definitely insane deals to be found on flood and rebuilt cars but there are a whole lot of pitfalls. I think you would do better to not try to argue and convince those who say it is a bad idea that they are dumb. If you show up with a thread on a flood 911 that would be entertaining as hell.
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Nov 9, 2017 22:02
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This is AI. I want to see a thread where someone rebuilds a flood car. I know we're all getting older, but when did we all turn into a bunch of pansies?
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Nov 9, 2017 22:10
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There's like, a difference between doing something stupid with eyes wide open and doing something stupid out of ignorance. But hey, whatever.
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Nov 9, 2017 22:13
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mekilljoydammit posted:There's like, a difference between doing something stupid with eyes wide open and doing something stupid out of ignorance. But hey, whatever. I think the OP is taking how much work he hopes a flood car will involve and trying to push forward with it. I've bought some really shocking cars in the past, but I always kind of knew what i was getting into.
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Nov 9, 2017 22:28
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Yeah lotta people overreacting itt. As long as he knows what he's getting into gently caress it, go hog wild just post a thread dammit.
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Nov 10, 2017 02:08
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The problem is that he was arguing with two people who have worked on flood cars. It's going to suck unless you strip the car to chassis.
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Nov 10, 2017 02:41
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imagine four lengths of SO cable on the edge of a ship. two are have undamaged jacketing and two are cut in half. water goes up the wires and corrodes the cut wires, but doesnt damage the one with solid seoprene jacketing. flood cars work the same way.
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Nov 10, 2017 02:54
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I say go chase your dreams and buy a flood car OP. Either we get a great thread of you rebuilding one, and making it work, or you crash and burn spectacularly. Either way we win! mekilljoydammit posted:There's like, a difference between doing something stupid with eyes wide open and doing something stupid out of ignorance. But hey, whatever. One makes a good thread, and the other makes a great thread.
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Nov 10, 2017 03:24
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I was actually really hoping for a good discussion about spotting heavily detailed flood cars on Craigslist and Facebook Groups as kinda an information primer for the uninformed. But you know, this works too.
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Nov 10, 2017 03:50
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MC Hawking posted:I was actually really hoping for a good discussion about spotting heavily detailed flood cars on Craigslist and Facebook Groups as kinda an information primer for the uninformed. Look for the title to say rebuilt and run multiple VIN checks. Look at (and smell) the car in person. You wont be able to tell if its been detailed and photographed well over the internet. https://m.soundcloud.com/stevelehto/beware-of-flood-damaged-cars-ep-349
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Nov 10, 2017 04:04
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OP, just wanna say it's kind of a bad way to think that cars without ECU don't have electrical/won't be as affected by floods electrically. They do have electrical and it's almost always 1000% more infuriating than anything with an ECU. I would 100% buy a salvage title flood porsche if I could price out the cost of new carb gaskets + wire harnesses and the cost to fabricate a new dash with electronic gauges because I sure as poo poo would throw out anything even remotely resembling electrical. At that point you might as well look into megasquirt or something similar though I think.
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Nov 10, 2017 04:07
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Terrible Robot posted:lmfaooo What he said. Based on 4 years experience in the automotive wiring and ECU design industry as well as a decade of fixing Jeeps that have corrosion issues, CT isn't quite right but is close, csb is right. You have your head in the clouds. But hey you think you know everything, enjoy your gremlin-cursed flood car, OP. Edit: Shamelessly swiped from the rbracing webpage on wiring harness fabrication: this only took 24 hours. Don't make me find a good example of corroded wiring in my junk pile, I'm sure I have plenty. I've seen wires turn to dust for 6 inches inside the insulation on *non* flood cars. You will never get the crap out of those harnesses and the entire chassis will have all manner of gunk in every spot weld seam. It might not be salt water but it'll still corrode the spot-weld seams from the inside out. Depending on who made the car the ECUs might be totally fine or might be a total write-off. Like I said, csb and CT are on the right track. Also if you think water won't push past seals when the engine is only half submerged you're in for some horrible surprises in the engine, transmission, differentials, gas tank, etc etc etc. If only life was so kind. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 04:19
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I was kind of excited to see this thread, with the prospects of helpful info on how to buy some body panels for a new to me F150 for less than local bonkers prices. Instead I get this garbage. Can confirm that harnesses will turn to green dust far away from terminations. VW even found a way to fill a tail light with coolant. Now, where does a  ian look for flood vehicles being parted out.
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Nov 10, 2017 09:13
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DefaultPeanut posted:Now, where does a Copart? For an F150 you have to fend off a lot of international buyers though. Buy a wrecked one, not a flooded one.
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Nov 10, 2017 15:38
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MrChips posted:OP I think instead of a flood car you should go buy a Black Mazda Miata, shown here high and dry and not up to it's mirrors in shitwater: I dunno bud I really think he should go with a flood car. I mean look at this flooded black Porsche 911 
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Nov 10, 2017 15:43
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This flooded black Tesla Model S would be the perfect car to rebuild after a flood! e: making it better, that was in salt water. 
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Nov 10, 2017 16:15
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I've rebuilt non-flooded salvage cars since the 90's and I don't even recommend that to people. And I wouldn't touch a flood car except maybe as a body shell. *starts surfing copart*
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Nov 11, 2017 01:38
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LloydDobler posted:*starts surfing copart*
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Nov 11, 2017 01:48
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InitialDave posted:Yeah, "fresh" water means "not salty". Urban freshwater flood is gonna feature more than a few turds. I remember hearing that that was a big problem after Katrina - that a number of mechanics, while working on flood-damaged vehicles, cut themselves on sewage-soaked metal bits and contracted life-threatening infections.
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Nov 11, 2017 03:16
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Oh man, can you imagine chasing the gremlins in a tiny, old european car that's been submerged in water, with all the wonderful smells that a flood brings? I've had to clean up a lot of sewage flooded basements, and I'd rather pound nails into my dick than be in that tiny space, breathing that air and fiddling with wires for the rest of the time I own the car As far as I know, there's not really any money to be saved by buying a flood car, unless you're looking for a parts car or rolling chassis
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Nov 11, 2017 10:06
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Tai-Pan posted:--- See, I don't get this. I have been working on cars my whole life. Not once have I seen rust "get worse" after the car is dried. Where do you live? I'd put my guess on inland Texas or the southwest, where the roads don't see salt. Check out the Chevelle of Theseus thread for a hands-on demonstration that while you think the car is fine, you have no idea what's going on inside the body panels until it is way too late. A submerged car has had every opportunity for water to penetrate those panels, because all the holes in them are on the inside where they usually aren't exposed to exterior moisture. Doesn't work so well once the interior is full of water. If you want the summary, the OP has in fact mail-ordered an entire new Chevelle worth of body panels due to the wreckage on the inside of the welds. Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Nov 11, 2017 |
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Nov 11, 2017 16:20
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How does Copart work? Looks like you need a dealer’s license or pay a broker to buy on your behalf? Anyone bought through it before?
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Nov 11, 2017 22:22
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