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You all are thieves and probably the reason why pretty much every junkyard around me won't even let people into their yards. They also have no interest in selling anything small, so its a lose-lose. Made some progress last week on pulling the old B6 motor. Shuffled some cars around and got the 323 up on jackstands.  Look how tiny it is. Barely fills the engine bay. Starting to disconnect everything. Took about two hours to label and disconnect after work over a couple days.  Lets pull the engine:  Hmm, that looks wrong. My biggest issue with this 323 project is that I keep getting drafted to work on other friends projects. This Ferd is being vaporized for its axles, to toss in a 2.3L Turbo Ranger.   There, that's better. Was pretty uneventful. Now, someone educate me on priming a power steering system. Sgt Fox fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Dec 18, 2017 |
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Dec 18, 2017 20:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:The you-pull-it lots here are fully secured and charge you something like $2 just to get in, whether or not you buy anything on your way out. My local yard recently instated a $1 charge to get to the lot. I'm guessing they need it to pay for the loving dumpster fire of a website upgrade that they did. Managed to talk my way out of the charge last time I went because they didn't have the VIN on file for a car I was interested in and I didn't even have any tools on me to actually pull anything. Just stopped by because I was in the area. They used to post VINs on the inventory on the website, but after the almost 10 months of construction, they decided to do away with that. Buncha crackerjack motherfuckers over there.
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Dec 18, 2017 21:15
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Sgt Fox posted:Now, someone educate me on priming a power steering system. What you do is pour in some fluid and then pray that the grinding sound stops after a few seconds.
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Dec 18, 2017 21:57
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:What you do is pour in some fluid and then pray that the grinding sound stops after a few seconds. Pretty much. Disable fuel and crank it over a bit then turn lock to lock a few times and top it off. Then start it for real and do the same.
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Dec 19, 2017 01:37
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Think of it like bleeding brakes, but instead of pressing the brake pedal you are turning the wheels left and right. Fill the reservoir, pull the return hose off, put the car up stands (or wheels off), manually keep turning the wheel left and right and refilling the reservoir until clean fluid coming out. optional clean out the bucket(or get another one) and put some clean fluid in, put the hose in the fluid and keep turning the wheels until no bubbles coming out of the return. Also like brakes you can use a vacuum system . Fo3 fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Dec 19, 2017 |
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Dec 19, 2017 02:23
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Well so currently the 323 power steering looks like this: and the MX-3 stuff:  So I am currently making a hybrid with the 323 rack, the 323 cooling loop, the MX3 tank, the MX3 pump fittings and the hard/soft line from the cooler loop to the 323 rack hardline. I was thinking to attach the pump and spin it in a drill or something before I put the engine in, bolting the pump to the engine after. Worth it?
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Dec 19, 2017 04:53
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Nah, they're not that hard to prime. When I had to reseal the gearbox and replace the pump on my WJ (so, mostly dry system that also drives a cooling fan), I just jacked up the front to unload the steering, filled it, cranked the wheel side to side, then started it for about two seconds. It'll make a hellish noise while it sucks down that first slug of fluid. Top it off again and let the bubbles clear, then start it up again. Repeat until it stops draining the reservoir dry, then let it idle for a while and continue slowly circulating the steering. Once it seems like it's done sucking down fluid, figure out what you need to do to get it to the ideal level (hot vs cold, add more or remove excess, etc).
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Dec 19, 2017 05:13
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So then, the next question... steering racks. The stock 323 rack is supposed to be 3 turns lock to lock. The MX3 GS rack is 2.7 turns, 15:1 ratio. Supposedly it is a lot nicer. My concern is if I will have trouble with torque steer. Would a rack with a higher ratio, like the 323 rack be preferable? Either way I plan on swapping the front subframe now. The 323 does not have a swaybar, whereas the subframe I took from the MX3 does. I just have to figure out what rack to use.
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Dec 19, 2017 06:31
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Nice thing about the G25MR is it uses a pretty skookum jackshaft, so torque steer isn't a huge problem (it'll get lost in wheelspin more than anything). Use the GS rack.
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Dec 19, 2017 06:53
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Sgt Fox posted:My concern is if I will have trouble with torque steer. Torque steer is caused by many things, but I believe it's mostly down to FWD vehicles having mismatched drive shaft lengths, I'm not sure how having a different ratio rack will change things other than how much force it transmits back to you behind the wheel. 2.7 vs 3 doesn't sound like much, but if you have a "better" rack and it's not a total paint to replace, then go for it. As for priming the pump, going in dry should be fine, the reservoir usually feeds the pump directly. Filling the tank may be enough to "prime" the pump through gravity alone. Remove the belt and spin it for a while by hand if you want to be sure. One thing to note is that PS pumps suck down fluid quite quickly, even at idle speed, usually you will drain the first tank or two in a few seconds. The solution is to crank it for a few seconds at a time and then top it up (or jam a funnel/bottle in the tanks fill hole). Worst case, it makes grindy noises while you pour in fluid and beg for it to stop.
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Dec 19, 2017 21:56
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Sgt Fox posted:
Don't forget to get a battery tie-down when you put it all back together. Also what is that thing the ground wire is connected to, bolted between the strut top and the firewall?
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Dec 21, 2017 06:19
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Hauled the body harness out the other day. I've been going through it slowly to convert the auto harness to a manual transmission. I'm also matching up the engine harness interconnection plugs, as well as adding some of the 626 features, like the windshield washer fluid level sensor. All I can say so far is its so so so sticky.  I also only have a 1995 MX3 Mazda shop manual/wiring diagram which made it a bit different, given that the 95 added OBD2. AllData has filled in a bit with a 92 diagram, but it is missing a few things. Luckily the local Mazda dealer let me thumb through their shop manual library.
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Dec 22, 2017 18:48
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I have a Protege/323 service manual you can have if I can find it
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Dec 22, 2017 21:39
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I have a Protege/323 service manual you can have if I can find it A Mazda one? Sweet, if you find it. Got the harness wrapped back up. Thank god for PVC wiring harness wrapping tape. Way nicer than electrical tape for this.  Interestingly, since this was an early 323, the automatic trans computer was separate from the ecu. This meant that some of the signals, like the speed sensor and the brake switch first went to the auto computer and then to the ecu via different wires on the auto computer plugs. I had to cut and join the two of them to bypass the auto computer plugs essentially. I also had to strip out the clutch pedal starter switch and the clutch pedal switch. Stole the wiring for those from the MX3 harness, running the lines to the appropriate places. The transmission neutral switch is dealt with by the engine harness. The reverse lights were in the body harness. I cut the plug off and spliced into the appropriate wires in the auto trans connectors for these. Everyone complains about the electric fans not working after changing the engine harness. I think I know why. The body harness for a manual trans 323 and a manual trans mx3 have the same circuit for the fans, but where they join to the engine harness is different. Same goes for the speed sensor, and the rear defrost signal. Had to swap around a few pins on the engine to body harness plugs. Back into the body it goes. It looks so empty in here. 
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Dec 24, 2017 18:37
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poo poo I can't find it, it's probably buried somewhere or I got rid of it already. This is the one I had. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-Mazda-323-Protege-Workshop-Manual-From-Mazda/292355042354?hash=item4411b7ec32:g:-O8AAOSw9gRZ-3s2 $30 is a great deal you should grab it
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Dec 24, 2017 20:32
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Since you don't have PMs, do you have an email you're okay posting?
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Dec 24, 2017 22:44
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Applebees Appetizer posted:poo poo I can't find it, it's probably buried somewhere or I got rid of it already. This is the one I had. No worries. I will make do with the 1992 pdf I have. It seems that by 92 they had combined the auto computer and the ecu. I am not sure when they made the change, mine is an early 90 model year (built in 89). Charles posted:Since you don't have PMs, do you have an email you're okay posting? admin foxed.ca
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Dec 25, 2017 02:29
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Oh haha I was going to send you the 92 PDF. Didn't know you already had it, sorry. The change probably occurred for the '92 model years, there were a number of changes with the refresh, including different fuel pump connector and other stuff I can't remember.
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Dec 25, 2017 07:40
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The V6 is obviously a bit larger and will interfere with the radiator. The stock 323 radiator mounts behind the front rad support/hood latch and has a electric fan pulling from behind. From what I have read, the headers will end up just touching the rad fins. I need to find a different radiator then. It was rumored that a Dodge Neon rad will fit nicely between the front supports. I bought one from the junkyard and figured I would see how it works. It does barely slide down between the headlight supports, but it doesn't clear on the top as it is too high. I was thinking maybe if I made a removable top rad support, I could slide it down from above and then bolt the top support back in. Here it is before I started messing with it:  Time to break out the sawsall:  I then drilled holes to push the rubber lower mounts from the Dodge in the lower support.  And it fit. I was very happy how well it slid in. I was also able to bend the upper dodge mounts and use them in some stock rivnut holes.  I made some plates to bolt the top support back on. I used rivnuts and some spare Mazda bolts, so it matches. Painted them red.   I mounted an old Toyota Corolla or something AC fan. It was designed to push air from the front, was all metal and had nice rubber isolators. Making the mounts for this were a bit of a pain, lots of bending and tapping of holes, but it worked out quite well.  I am quite happy how everything fit together.
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Dec 28, 2017 10:37
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Nice job making that look almost stock. That came out awesome.
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Dec 28, 2017 11:02
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The KLZE swap we saw in the junkyard had a hobbyhacked bolt-in rad support and they had also gutted the headlights and just kept the plastic lenses. The rad fan was a front-mounted pusher fan like yours, though I think it was bigger so the grille insert had also gotten trimmed. Yours looks much better than theirs.
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Dec 28, 2017 18:56
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Thanks guys. I was amazed how the stock dodge mounting hardware was able to be adapted. For example: The top radiator bracket, minus rubber (it was on the rad at the time). I cut off the wings and pressed the double bend out to just a 90. It literally lined up to Mazda holes. I now have to deal with the fact I have no overflow fitting on either the engine or the radiator. I found an inline rad cap assembly from a Toyota Yaris which might work well. It uses a small style rad cap, and the Toyota one is 16PSI. It looks like a Mazda MPV also uses the small style and is the correct 13PSI though.
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Dec 29, 2017 18:51
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So, where did I leave off with the engine? Let's jump back a few months. Crusty, greasy corroded KLZE up on the stand:  Broken spark plug wires, rust and corrosion on everything. It looks pretty rough. I did a compression test. All six cylinders were around 220 PSI. That's basically the theoretical maximum of the engine, which is 225 PSI. I was told that the engine only had about 5000 KM on it after it was imported from Japan. Must have been pretty low mileage in Japan as well. Given the good numbers, I figured I would just do soft seals and clean it up. I don't want to remove the heads. Out comes the engine degreaser:    That is looking a bit better. Certainly a lot less greasy. Time to take off the valve covers and see what is inside.   Clean. No sludge or discolouration. Also no scoring or wear on any of the lobes. Confirmed that the heads and the cams both have the KL31 casting number, indicating a KLZE. The intake valve springs are also the larger diameter KLZE springs. More on this later. Flip it over, take off the pan:  Interesting, a factory baffle plate.
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Jan 1, 2018 20:46
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Looks like it's good on the inside, nice and clean. I love pulling a valve cover or oil pan and seeing that. Great compression numbers too. Looks like a score on that engine.
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Jan 1, 2018 21:01
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So, ah, just wondering but do you plan on selling this car when you're done? Asking for a friend...... me
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Jan 1, 2018 22:50
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After working on a miata of the same vintage for the last couple of weeks it's amazing to see the identical alternator, ps pump, and oil cooler on a completely different engine.
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Jan 2, 2018 15:10
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Applebees Appetizer posted:So, ah, just wondering but do you plan on selling this car when you're done? Asking for a friend...... Hah! Decided to start rebuilding the alternator and starter today. Took out the armatures and noticed some deep brush grooves in the alternator. Chucked them up in the lathe and turned them down smooth again. I'll take a needle file and clean between the commutator bars.   Brushes and bearings all look serviceable. Just corrosion and dried grease.
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Jan 3, 2018 03:46
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Awesome work. I'd be a little worried about getting it looked over by cops though, with the bolted together rad support. Might just be around here though, but they were huge dicks about having an intact rad support and having it welded in.
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Jan 3, 2018 03:50
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We don't have mandatory vehicle inspections here. Cops generally don't bother with anyone, unless you drive like a moron and have something that is obviously illegal. I would bet that even with a removable upper rad support, I would still pass a vehicle inspection if I had to have one. Those generally deal with lights, brakes and general serviceability of the vehicle.
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Jan 3, 2018 04:10
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Surely some car must have a bolt-in rad support from the factory?
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Jan 3, 2018 04:11
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I only bring it up cos I got dinged for a similar but much less well executed setup during a random integrity check stop at the dump. If the cop's not super sharp yours looks factory enough to pass, though!
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Jan 3, 2018 04:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Surely some car must have a bolt-in rad support from the factory? The MX3 kinda did. Breakfast Feud posted:I only bring it up cos I got dinged for a similar but much less well executed setup during a random integrity check stop at the dump. If the cop's not super sharp yours looks factory enough to pass, though! Where in the world was this?
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Jan 3, 2018 05:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Surely some car must have a bolt-in rad support from the factory? Most VWs/Audis made in the last 15+ years.
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Jan 3, 2018 05:45
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Breakfast Feud posted:Awesome work. I'd be a little worried about getting it looked over by cops though, with the bolted together rad support. Might just be around here though, but they were huge dicks about having an intact rad support and having it welded in. Must be a peaceful place if cops have enough time to give a poo poo about things like that.
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Jan 3, 2018 11:49
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Sgt Fox posted:The MX3 kinda did. Manitoba, Canada. It was weird as gently caress because it's one of the most relaxed places about vehicle integrity otherwise. It's just sometimes they get a huge stick up their rear end and enforce the most bizarre poo poo.
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Jan 3, 2018 13:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Surely some car must have a bolt-in rad support from the factory? My Camry did.
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Jan 7, 2018 21:23
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Parts have been arriving! I think at this point, I have about 14 or 15 rock auto boxes from this project. They shorted me on magnets a few times, which made me very cross. Oddly enough the wholesaler closeout parts from the Florida warehouse arrived in 1990's boxes, crushed and moldy. In the meantime, I've been proceeding with tearing down the accessories and dealing with all that corrosion. I don't have a ton of pictures, but I have a few. The aluminum on the intake was especially bad.   Into the glass bead cabinet it goes. After a couple hours, I had most of the corrosion off. Unfortunately, there was still staining on the aluminum which wasn't coming off with glass bead. I decided it was better than it was and sprayed it with a clear, high heat semigloss.   It will do. Everything laid out in the garage:  A friend found this sweet RX-7 picture when he was cleaning out an attic. I've got to find a good place to hang it. 
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Jan 15, 2018 04:34
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I'm at least a little convinced the CBSA is stealing RockAuto magnets. I've gotten a few RockAuto packages with RockAuto tape on the top and brown tape on the bottom and no magnets.
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Jan 15, 2018 05:26
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Check out the rebuilders cast aluminum finish. https://www.amazon.com/PlastiKote-282-Aluminum-Rebuilders-Finish/dp/B000CP896K It's my secret for referbing manifolds and rotor housings.
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Jan 15, 2018 06:33
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I'll have to keep an eye out for that up here in Canada. Honestly though, I have always preferred glass beaded and cleared aluminum over a sliver paint.
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Jan 16, 2018 16:25
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