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Applebees Appetizer posted:Sockington was the BG savant, he was a mod for Club Protege too. Rust got him. He's fine.
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May 24, 2019 03:21
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Tell him I want my jorts back  Seriously tho, tell him I said hi and that AI misses him. [e] and use my old name leica, he probably doesn't know this one 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 03:26 on May 24, 2019 |
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May 24, 2019 03:24
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Charles posted:I totally forgot about that, yeah. If I had the VIN I do have a copy of the electronic parts catalog and I could see what it says. I might need to find an XP computer as it's a really old version though and it need some Oracle DB software or something weird. The 323 hatch was offered with 8-valve vs 16-valve (B6-E vs B6-ME) depending on year / location sold in the U.S. Don't know about Canada. I think the 16-valve was for CARB? I haven't had a BG for 13 years but a lot of info is still at http://protegefaq.net too. I think that is the euro Mazda EPC you have? If it's the NA one, I would like it please. It does run on win10 still.
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May 24, 2019 06:44
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Sgt Fox posted:I think that is the euro Mazda EPC you have? If it's the NA one, I would like it please. It does run on win10 still. I have both a US and a Euro + JDM disc. They're 10 year old burnt media so hopefully they still work. My disc drive isn't showing up in Windows. I'll try again in the morning.
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May 24, 2019 07:57
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If we're fangirling about 323's here I can join in! I had a BD Sedan (NZDM!) that went through 3 generations of my family over about 20 years. I don't even remember if it was manual or auto, but it did have a towbar and I used it to move houses a couple of times. I also had a BG Astina (JDM) with a silly B5-DE in it. Definitely a manual, such a fun little car. I bring it up in AI all the time because it's the closest thing to a performance car I've ever owned
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May 24, 2019 12:03
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Charles posted:I have both a US and a Euro + JDM disc. They're 10 year old burnt media so hopefully they still work. My disc drive isn't showing up in Windows. I'll try again in the morning. I copied the files to my computer and mounted the CD images. I installed the program but it says I have to register it with Mazda or something. I don't remember what to do :-(. I think there was some kind of database server I'm supposed to install?
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May 24, 2019 15:30
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Sockington was the BG savant, he was a mod for Club Protege too. I, too, miss his rust posts.
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May 24, 2019 17:48
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Darchangel posted:I, too, miss his
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May 24, 2019 20:00
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Those too.
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May 24, 2019 20:57
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I think sock still posts in the fishing thread in Take a Hike! Just looked at the Protege FAQ for the first time in years, glad to see its still kicking around. Before I tracked down those old posts I sent a message off to Edwin on Fakebook asking what the guy's name was. We're currently debating their existence as he's got a part catalog with no mention of it, and a VIN list, that also doesn't mention it. I'm not trying to imply that they were something that you could buy at the dealer so much as I'm arguing that they were cars that actually DID exist. In limited numbers for testing purposes or whatever, that just happened to get out to the public.
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May 24, 2019 22:15
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I was thinking about the Sockington scale of rust when the alignment guys said the toe arms are seized on my Mercedes. I think it'd be very low.
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May 25, 2019 01:29
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Charles posted:I copied the files to my computer and mounted the CD images. I installed the program but it says I have to register it with Mazda or something. I don't remember what to do :-(. I think there was some kind of database server I'm supposed to install? Hmm, my email is admin///foxed.ca, if you wouldn't mind. I can give you an ftp and maybe I can figure it out? As for the forum sock, I think the donor MX-3 for the AC might actually have registered a full sockington of rust. 
Sgt Fox fucked around with this message at 18:12 on May 26, 2019 |
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May 26, 2019 18:05
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The MX3 GS trailing arms are fully boxed right? I swore there's a specific donor that is, I'd love to swap them into the BF. Also, is that block to compressor bracket aluminum or iron/steel? B6T BF is kinda nose heavy even in wagon form, I'd love to do easy changes to drop some weight.
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May 27, 2019 06:23
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I'd better get back into posting to keep this out of the archives. Let's see, where were we? I had just sealed up the AC system and pulled a vacuum on it. Time to turn my attention to the HVAC controls. I had gotten enough of the dash back in to have the stock wiring and the new harness for the electronic HVAC boxes. The dash has an internal frame to which the HVAC control unit and radio are mounted, and then trim pieces cover the rest.  Here is the manual 323 HVAC on the right, and the 95+ MX-3 HVAC module on the left. They are roughly the same height, but the MX-3 unit is about half an inch narrower. The mounts are in no way the same.  I ended up cutting off the mounts from the 323 unit and screwing them onto the MX-3 mounting ears. Luckily, they seemed to line up well for depth. As for the width, I cut up an old broken radio surround and glued them to the side of the MX-3 unit. Pay no attention to the chipped plastic, the trim covers that up.  Next, add the trim and radio, and its back together.  Nearly looks stock, doesn't it.
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Jul 30, 2019 22:35
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Sgt Fox posted:Nearly looks stock, doesn't it. Would have fooled me. 
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Jul 31, 2019 01:09
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Sgt Fox posted:Nearly looks stock, doesn't it. Heck yeah it does. You are a man after my own heart with this stuff. I love upgrading with stock-but-newer stuff. I was so happy playing Jeep Lego. RX-7 Lego was and will be, when I get back to it, just as fun.
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Aug 1, 2019 23:48
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While I had the harness out again to splice in the AC harness, I decided to add a few other electric features. Both the fuse box under the hood and the box in the footwell had some spare, unused fuses. I decided to use contacts stolen from a spare box to add a few more circuits. First, the underhood box. I added a 10A fuse to supply the foglights. As well, I printed a label to match as best as possible.  I found a Miata fog light switch, which matched the 323 switch style perfectly.  I found a brown raised armrest from another MX-3 at a junkyard, and the later cupholder style 323 center console as well.  I liked the map lights the MX-3 used, so I retrofitted them into the 323 headliner.  The 323 never had passenger handles, just blanking plugs. I installed some from a couple MX-3's.  I also wired up the adjustable intermittent delay windshield wipers from the MX-3. From a junkyard Protege I grabbed: -Tilt adjustable steering column. -Ignition key courtesy light. -Windshield washer reservoir level sender (Since the new tach cluster had a light) -Low fuel level sender (Since the new tach cluster had a light) Additionally I added a couple diodes to the body junction box computer to enable the door ajar buzzer to beep when you removed the keys but left the lights on. The dash looked completely stock  I added a 30A to the footwell box.  Yes, I had decided to add heated seats as well. I found a company on RockAuto (Dash Designs) who still made custom seatcovers for 323s. I also picked up a cheap heated seat kit from China. They consist of sticky heating pads, which you put under the upholstery. Since I was going with covers, I just stuck them to them. The heating pad. You can cut them slightly, but I was able to fit the entire mats on both the seats and backs.  One pad installed.  Oddly, I don't have a picture of them installed in the car. I'll take one tonight. Finally, I wanted to add homelink (drat you Darchangel). I bought an Audi A4 visor off eBay, as they had a cover which concealed the entire homelink module. I carefully cut out a rectangle and installed in the the 323's visor. Interesting to note, the Audi had a 1x12" aluminum tape antenna, which was adhered to the plastic homelink body and then extended 10 inches off, through the rest of the visor. I had read other people complain that the modules do not have great range, but none of the modules on eBay seem to come with the antenna. I suspect noone who retrofits uses the antenna. I did, and my range is easily a couple hundred feet. 
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Sep 30, 2019 21:55
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Just fantastic work, as always
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Sep 30, 2019 22:23
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Sgt Fox posted:I suspect noone who retrofits uses the antenna. I did, and my range is easily a couple hundred feet. Hm. The Cadillac Homelink I have ziptied to the dash of my TJ didn't come with an antenna either and the range is kinda crap (though, sufficient for my needs).
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Sep 30, 2019 23:44
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Having adjustable intermittent wipers is something that's hard to live without once you've had it, nice upgrade. I have a Homelink dimming mirror on my 3 but it doesn't have the latest generation of the switching code system, I need to figure out the part # for the newer one. They still look identical in new cars, I just have to find out if they have the same connector.
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Sep 30, 2019 23:54
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I'd say your chances are good. The Cadillac unit I have is apparently physically identical over a very long period, and the only way to easily identify which is which is the color of the indicator LED.
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Sep 30, 2019 23:59
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dude you're a machine, that looks awesome
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Oct 1, 2019 12:54
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Sgt Fox posted:Finally, I wanted to add homelink (drat you Darchangel). I bought an Audi A4 visor off eBay, as they had a cover which concealed the entire homelink module. I carefully cut out a rectangle and installed in the the 323's visor. Interesting to note, the Audi had a 1x12" aluminum tape antenna, which was adhered to the plastic homelink body and then extended 10 inches off, through the rest of the visor. I had read other people complain that the modules do not have great range, but none of the modules on eBay seem to come with the antenna. I suspect noone who retrofits uses the antenna. I did, and my range is easily a couple hundred feet. You're welcome.  Have I mentioned I love what you're doing in terms of factory accessories and stock appearance? I did that to my Jeep Cherokee, and still doing it to my Crown Vic. It appeals to me to not look obviously accessorized, but still have all the toys. Charles posted:Having adjustable intermittent wipers is something that's hard to live without once you've had it, nice upgrade. It's possible, but there are at least 3 different connectors, I've found. 7-pin in-line, 10-pin "square" (two rows of 5) and another rectangular one with more pins, that I've seen. GM one is usually different from the standard ones due to OnStar being in the mirror as well. You can buy Gentex mirrors new, independent of vehicle manufacturer, and there are adapter harnesses or pigtails available on Ye Olde Interwebs. Check eBay. I shoved an Infiniti M45 mirror in my Outback, and just spliced in the newer 10-pin connector, so now the car has both that and the 7-pin, and I grabbed one from a Nissan Rogue from eBay, and a matching pigtail for pretty cheap. Gentex's site should be able to tell you what mirror is compatible with which openers.
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Oct 1, 2019 20:38
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Now that most everything mechanical was complete, it was time to tackle the cosmetics. Rust! No BG 323 would be complete without at least a light dusting of sockington's revenge. Luckily I had only a couple places on the entire body. 1. Underneath the roof body crease for the rear hatch. This was minor, just a light surface rust with no pitting or any holes. Just a simple sand, prep and paint was needed. (I used an etching primer, a sealer primer and a topcoat). 2. The rear driver wheel arch. There is a spot welded seam along the back side. I guess the seam sealer failed and the body started to rust from the inside out. It was starting to get quite bad.  As with any rust from a seam, what was showing was only the tip of the iceberg. Sandblast to remove the rust and paint. It's amazing how many pinholes appear. It also amazes me how the sand literally gets everywhere.  I then marked out how much I was going to cut out. I figured it would be easiest to split the seam at the fuel door, as the outer skin was spot welded in two places here.  As I cut, I found the rust followed the seam further inside. I ended up needing to cut away this much until I had fresh steel.  Paint removed, prepped and sprayed with a weld through primer.  A few months earlier, I had cut out a patch panel from a junkyard car. The pick n pull was very confused when I asked for permission to do this, but as long as I wasn't using a grinder, they had no problem with it. Luckily, I had brought my M12 hackzall.  Mark out the patch.  Cut to fit and prepped with weld through primer as well.  Welded in. The zinc primer made it really hard to get a clean weld. It also really sucked to weld the inner wheel well portion.  Add some fancy filler.  Sand, add catalyzed glazing putty and repeat.  Then spray guide coat, which helps you see imperfections. Add more filler, sand, guide coat, sand, filler, guide coat, etc, etc, etc.  Still a bit of work to make it uniform.
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Nov 8, 2019 23:49
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Good repair! I would imagine the Pick N Pull near you has never seen rust before, and so replacing a quarter panel is a concept that is largely unfamiliar to them.
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Nov 9, 2019 00:38
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How did you get the pinch weld on the inside patched? I have a whole wheel well to do, and know its rotted on the inside and the outside. My patch car also had the inside rotted, so I couldn't just cut the whole thing out. Did you just make something out of scrap steel and will cut it flat later? Or did you get that part from the donor too?
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Nov 9, 2019 01:56
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The donor was intact. If you notice on the cutout, there is both the outer skin and the inner wheel well removed. I cut the patch in the same manner. That being said, I dont see why you couldn't recreate it with some plug welds and a bunch of seam sealer.
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Nov 9, 2019 02:15
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Sgt Fox posted:Sandblast to remove the rust and paint. It's amazing how many pinholes appear. It also amazes me how the sand literally gets everywhere. Oh my God this is such truth. poo poo is *everywhere* in my RX-7. Very little hole I missed taping off on the firewall let that crap into the floorboards. It’s in the cowl, inside the upper chassis reinforcements, probably the frame rails... quote:The zinc primer made it really hard to get a clean weld. I, as well, was surprised by that, especially given the, you know name (“weld-through”).
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Nov 9, 2019 05:04
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Nice job on the body work, looks great. I need to do that on both rear wells on my daily beater and it looks like it's worth doing. I love the stock fuse block and fog switch addition as well, so clean and oem. That's the kind of work I'll do on my Scirocco in a million years when I'm able to work on it.
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Nov 9, 2019 20:10
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Previously I had been using an old Campbell Hausfeld spraygun. I was never really too happy with how much orange peel I would end up with. I decided if I was going to spend all the effort sanding and filling the car, I might as well get a decent spray gun. I ended up with the Devilbiss finish line gun, FLG4. It really is a beautiful gun, with multiple tips for primer, base and clear. I also ended up getting their DeKups system, which uses disposable paint cups. You put the paint in a disposable sealed paint cup. This allows you to paint upside down, without worrying about drips and whatnot.   I planned on painting the fender I repaired, along with the front and rear bumper. Any paint which was on plastic or urethane parts had faded to pink with time. The third brake light was completely pink as well. When I removed it, I found a surprise:  The plastic had completely melted. It took a lot of scouring of junkyards to find a good unit. Nearly every one had melted. I will have to change this to an LED bulb. The bumper covers were scuffed and sanded. Any little dings were smoothed out. The black rub strips were also taped off.  I made a makeshift paint booth in the back yard. An old picnic table screen cover, with a poly floor and a big old box fan to pull the air through.  Who's ready to paint? (Yes, that is my old gun)  
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Jan 13, 2020 20:32
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Can't wait to see!
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Jan 14, 2020 07:24
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Darchangel posted:I, as well, was surprised by that, especially given the, you know name (“weld-through”). I've tried a good brand weld through and while it kinda works, it makes everything that much more difficult so I've hosed it off. Garbage.
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Jan 14, 2020 13:52
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A quick update to keep this out of archives. The bumpers looked pretty decent before any polishing, considering a backyard paintjob. Paint is Valspar single stage 840 series polyurethane (SP150 2.8 Urethane Mazda SQ Blaze Red) Primer/sealer was the Valspar CPS surfacer/sealer. Still taped up:   (Yes, you will notice that I found the factory spoiler  Very excited to find that at the pick-a-part, they were only on the Canadian and JDM cars... )  There was a bit of orange peel on the vertical surfaces. I will have to polish a bit, but I have a very thick coat to work with. Tape off:   It's really exciting to start taking off the tape and seeing shiny new parts. Imgur is really failing at red compression on these images. Sgt Fox fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Mar 30, 2020 |
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Mar 30, 2020 18:02
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That looks really good.
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Mar 30, 2020 18:30
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This has got to be my favorite build. It's like every '4 beers in' project plan I dreamed up... Except you actually loving built the thing.
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Mar 31, 2020 02:22
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Looking great. Nice find on the wing!
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Mar 31, 2020 02:36
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Apr 4, 2020 05:14
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God drat.
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Apr 4, 2020 05:58
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Ugh, need to get my poor baby back into one piece.
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Apr 15, 2020 23:11
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*fans self* Hot.
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Apr 16, 2020 18:53
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