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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire

Unsane posted:

I haven't looked into the solenoid at all, its throwing a code for it immediately at key on for a circuit code. Supposedly it was diagnosed at a local Honda shop by the PO, but I haven't attempted to diagnose it myself. Probably should though considering the cost on the part. Right now, the rev limiter just cuts in at 3500 rpm when you drive it.
Already ordered a immobilizer chip from ebay to put in it. I'm planning on eliminating the entire ignition switch from the column, I am very much a fan of KISS when it comes to stuff like this. The long term plan will probably be a OBD 1 ECM swap, but I just want to get it going as is for now.
Timing belt is on the to-do list, just going to throw away the balance shaft belt while I'm in there for a cheap delete. maybe if I make it through a season, I'll pull the motor and do it proper.
The factory intake tube is torn, so that'll probably get replaced, may reuse the stock box if possible. Would fab up some kind of cold air scoop - maybe in the original headlight spot.

Cool. I've gone and watched a few times and it was a fun time.

Seems like swapping the ecu to something older would be more complicated. I'd probably just disable the immobilizer (I assume you have to remove the steering column lock too?) and leave everything else alone engine/harness/ecu wise.

Also I was just going through stock my distributor is clearing out. They have a bunch of rear tokico illuminas and HPs for cheap for that car. None for the front, strangely, but there's some other stuff.

jamal fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jan 8, 2018

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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah I don't know a lot about honda ecus either but there might be some way to keep the ecu and have it ignore all the poo poo you've taken off. A Honda tuner like church would know or send hondata an email maybe?

Also had my year split wrong for the CL, which might actually help. They've got full sets for that chassis, it's the next gen there are only rear shocks for.

How much can/do you want to spend on the suspension? Can you have adjustable perches? Being able to weight jack would be useful for only turning left but a ground control kit goes for like $400. There's cheaper stuff on ebay but you'd probably need to find new springs. The illuminas would be a decent choice I think, you get an adjustment knob and they'll be fine on a dirt track and a full set is under 350. HPs are even cheaper at like 250 which is probably less than the cheapest parts store crap.

Or you could get bilsteins. I am trying to figure out if you can take apart and rebuild/revalve a B6 (the only application for that car). Seems like a possibility.

jamal fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Jan 9, 2018

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah I do have a little parts business and hopefully my own shop fairly soon. I don't have this stuff in the store because I mostly do Subaru parts, but was going through what my distributor had on clearance the other day. They've also got HPs for a cavalier. email is peter@functionauto.com

Reading the rules now. So no adjustable shocks, no adjustable springs, can only add camber (not sure what they mean by 1" though. measured from top to bottom of tire? rim?). Even on dirt you'll want a fair amount, and more caster and less anti-lift would be nice but it sounds like you can't do that. I don't see the HPs as being a problem. they're kind of a "performance" shock but not adjustable and meant as an oe replacement. I don't think there's much different between them and some KYB GR2s or whatever but I guess you might get poo poo for having bright blue shocks?

And you should definitely have a sweet sidepipe exhaust on the passenger side.

I could see making some reinforcement bars below the bumper skin and fenders too.

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