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Many of the local dirt ovals in Wisconsin run a class called "Bandit" cars - 4-cylinder, FWD, mostly stock. Rules: here. Its supposed to be entry level, budget racing. Example here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4Tya-KbIJ8 I've been dragging my feet on this, but finally am getting around to building a '99 Acura CL 2.3L 5-SP car that I picked up a couple years ago for this. I realize its an odd car to choose, but I really think its fits pretty well. So, let's meet the car.  200k miles before the odometer stopped working, I think every piece of this car is broken in some way. Yet, somehow too nice for for a demo derby I think.  F23A1 engine - not exactly a popular engine in the Honda world. Most every track however has banned any Honda DOHC, and most wont allow anything rated over 150hp factory. So this actually fits the class really well. Going to need to throw a VTEC solenoid in it. Then move on to removing unnecessary parts: A/C, P/S, balance shafts....etc. Day 1: Just started working on it today. Hopefully This thread will help keep me motivated. First thing, gut the interior. I'm always amazed at the amount of stuff manufacturers can cram in a car, and this is just the passenger side:  Plan for the next couple days will be to finish gutting the interior, remove a whole lot of wiring, hopefully hack a module in the ECM to remove the immobilizer, and get the VTEC solenoid in, and the engine fully functional before sending it for a cage. Really won't have a lot of time outside of the weekends, but I'm giving myself a deadline to make the practice race in april. I've built plenty of demo cars in under a week, and this isn't a whole lot different in my mind.
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Jan 8, 2018 06:29
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 05:45 |
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I haven't looked into the solenoid at all, its throwing a code for it immediately at key on for a circuit code. Supposedly it was diagnosed at a local Honda shop by the PO, but I haven't attempted to diagnose it myself. Probably should though considering the cost on the part. Right now, the rev limiter just cuts in at 3500 rpm when you drive it. Already ordered a immobilizer chip from ebay to put in it. I'm planning on eliminating the entire ignition switch from the column, I am very much a fan of KISS when it comes to stuff like this. The long term plan will probably be a OBD 1 ECM swap, but I just want to get it going as is for now. Timing belt is on the to-do list, just going to throw away the balance shaft belt while I'm in there for a cheap delete. maybe if I make it through a season, I'll pull the motor and do it proper. The factory intake tube is torn, so that'll probably get replaced, may reuse the stock box if possible. Would fab up some kind of cold air scoop - maybe in the original headlight spot.
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Jan 8, 2018 07:35
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Dude, that racetrack is 30 minutes from me. Where are you? Racine jamal posted:Cool. I've gone and watched a few times and it was a fun time. I'm not all that knowledgeable about Honda ECM stuff. It just seemed like I could buy a P38 with a chip in it and just tune everything on my own with a laptop. A swap harness would just make it plug and play. Otherwise I'm worried eliminating things may throw it in a limp mode. Planning on eliminating: 2nd O2 & cat, EVAP system, EGR, and advancing timing. I looked into all the factory anti theft stuff last night, it looks like I can just put that immo chip in the ecm and bypass all the remote start and anti-theft starter cut stuff pretty easily to start. If you have any other easy options for this, let me know. Then throw a push button and toggle switch ignition in it, and gut the column. eliminating all the wheel lock stuff. I've had wheel locks engage on me before in demo cars, so I just strip the columns by default now. Let me know what you can get for parts. I do want to replace the struts, and springs in it. The track gets pretty rough though, this class runs last in the night. I don't think a performance shock would be the best, unless it was pretty mild. Thinking about getting a set of the cl 3.0 springs for on the right side of the car though.
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Jan 9, 2018 05:29
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quote:Stock type steel springs that fit in perch and top hat in stock locations are allowed. No threaded adjusters. Do you run a store? I'd probably go for a set of those HPs. Wasnt planning on doing suspension yet, but wouldn't want to pass up a deal. Also don't want to push my luck with worn out stock suspension. My buddy runs the #12 cavalier in that video I posted. He broke one of his OE front struts in half in a race last year. I'm trying to learn from his mistakes.
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Jan 9, 2018 06:19
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Almost forgot: Adjustable suspension arms are a go, and I'll have to try and find a set. Doubt I'll run the max 1" of camber, but a few degrees for sure.
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Jan 9, 2018 06:25
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jamal posted:And you should definitely have a sweet sidepipe exhaust on the passenger side. side exit exhaust is a given. The reinforcing bars I want to do, but will need to find someone who can fab the stuff up. I was thinking about buying a bending setup, but really don't have the space. I may run it by the shop that does the cage, they were surprisingly reasonable on the price, so I may have them do more fab stuff.
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Jan 9, 2018 07:13
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one of the reasons I was thinking about an ecm swap was just that I can get a chipped ecm, plug and play harness, basemap and a chip burner for ~$350. just seemed like the cheapest way to get it done. I don't want to buy some high dollar standalone ecu that will double the current cost of this project. Hoping for some advice on that though. I'm not worried about tuning for more power, I'm just don't want to cripple what I have with my modifications. Researching this is kinda tough though, these cars and the accords are long past their prime. Most of the online discussion I can find is just how to h22 swap them. Edit: forgot to add that I don't want to jump into the ECM swap thing until later. Its more of a want then a need at this point. I'm more concerned on just getting what I have now running well, and on the track to start with. Unsane fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Jan 10, 2018 |
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Jan 10, 2018 05:39
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Saturday update: Big Shout out to jamal for hooking me up with a deal on most of my new "stock" suspension.  Diagnosed my vtec issue. Scanner gave me this extremely descriptive trouble code:  The solenoid itself ohmed out good, the pressure switch also does KOEO. Assuming I actually have oil pressure I'm probably going to just need the screen and probably the pressure switch. Since its like 3/4 the cost of the whole solenoid unit I guess I'm just going to pick up a new unit and save what's left for parts. Other then that, just more stripping. Got both doors gutted, dash out, headliner out.  Tomorrow will be removing the gigantic sunroof assembly, and probably heater box. Get the drivers seat out, so I can pull the rest of the carpeting. Also ripping into the stock ECM and solder in this immo chip, hopefully it still runs after. Cant get homelink in my new ford...but in my 18 year old acura? no prob.  sharkytm posted:I've got a Moates Ostrich and a P28 ECU that I socketed, and a HULog datalog output. It was in my old Civic, but should still work. I've been trying to sell it half-heartedly for years. I've also got an OLD Thinkpad with a Crome Pro license.
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Jan 14, 2018 03:56
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Kinda been burnt out from work lately. I'm hoping to tear apart the vtec solenoid today, and see if here is any crap in the screen causing the run issue. Trying to get my rear end in gear so I can get this sent out for the cage.
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Feb 25, 2018 21:43
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Started pulling the valve, didn't realize I have to pull the whole thermostat block of to get it out. Ordering the thermostat and coolant pipe gaskets. Ended up working on removing more of the unneeded accessories, and lights. I can just cap off the heater hoses on the block right? Not sure if Honda's need that coolant cross flow.
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Feb 26, 2018 03:21
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 05:45 |
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What ever book time is on this heater core, it isnt enough. Had a good day/night of working on this pile. Threw a new vtec solenoid in it, got some more windows, and the rest of the interior out. still fighting whats left of the heater box.More of the same tomorrow hopefully. starting to rip out unneeded wiring, and clear extra crap out of the engine bay as well. Went to a preseason drivers meet and april 28th is the first race for the class, hopefully shouldn't be a problem. We hired another mechanic at the shop I work at, now the constant seven day a week overtime should end as well. So its time to get some poo poo done.
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Mar 11, 2018 08:31
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