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Are you sure the vtec solenoid is bad? The screen sometimes gets gunked up if POs run the oil too long, which will keep VTEC from engaging. There's nothing wrong with the F23A1, it's just not that popular because people dump it for the H22 (which has more of an aftermarket). The VTEC also kicks in at a lower RPM on the F23A1 (as low as 2800 RPM). It's got a bit more usable low end power than an H22, IMO, and the drat things run forever. As for the immobilizer, open up your ECU and take a look. Compare it to the photos in this PDF. Then go here to order the proper bypass. Why did you want to bypass the immobilizer anyway? You probably already know it's an interference engine with a timing belt; I don't know if you'll want to put the money into a timing belt, but it'd be a good idea if you don't know when it was last changed. Rules seem to allow an aftermarket intake, but the stock intake is pretty well tuned from the factory on these (and a stock style filter will filter a lot more dirt than most cone filters).
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Jan 8, 2018 07:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The F23A1 is a pretty sturdy little engine in the Accord, I didn't realize it ran this late into the Acura product. The CL is just an Accord EX-L coupe with some lipstick. They used the F23 until the end of the 2002 model year on both the Accord and CL.
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Jan 8, 2018 23:12
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honda whisperer posted:I don't think an aftermarket ECU will be worth the effort for intake and exhaust. 90s Hondas don't really need tuning until you throw a major power adder at them. Ymmv I know more about b/d series than the f/h family though. Intake and exhaust don't do much good at all on the F23A1 without some other work (cam, tune, etc); it's surprisingly well tuned from the factory.
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Jan 10, 2018 07:25
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And after seeing that pic, suddenly I'm REALLY loving glad I got rid of my Accord. I know heater cores are a massive PITA in general, but drat.
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Mar 11, 2018 10:32
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