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I always have my baby lick my fingers clean for me
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Sep 2, 2023 00:46
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What's up with the licking fingers thing today
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Sep 2, 2023 00:57
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petit choux posted:What's up with the licking fingers thing today Lead is delicious
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Sep 2, 2023 01:03
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Grassy Knowles posted:Lead is delicious Mercury is actually the sweetest of the transition metals.
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Sep 2, 2023 01:22
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Armacham posted:Mercury is actually the sweetest of the transition metals. I never tasted it only played with a bead of it in the bathtub as a kid when those maze toys would break
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Sep 2, 2023 01:25
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Grassy Knowles posted:I never tasted it only played with a bead of it in the bathtub as a kid when those maze toys would break https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfde7SHM6Dk
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Sep 2, 2023 01:40
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I shouldve recognized that, I really am getting old
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Sep 2, 2023 10:10
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Hi thread! Someone recently gave me a Small Clone clone they made from a GuitarPCB kit (the Mini-Me) and I've been really impressed with how good it sounds. It's made me want to get into pedal DIY, if they can be this solid. Also my thirst for new pedals outpaces my funds to buy them, so this might help. I'm thinking about starting with this https://www.musikding.de/Angry-Llama-kit I kinda want to bridge the gap between useful / fun / easy entry point. One thing I can't quite figure out is whether I need a multimeter, I read something in the instructions about setting voltage with a trim but I'm a total idiot and don't really know what that involves. Any advice would be appreciated. Pedals I'm in the market for are OD/boost (hence Llama) but also an EQ and trem are on my horizon.
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Sep 4, 2023 15:55
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Tommy the Newt posted:Hi thread! Someone recently gave me a Small Clone clone they made from a GuitarPCB kit (the Mini-Me) and I've been really impressed with how good it sounds. It's made me want to get into pedal DIY, if they can be this solid. Also my thirst for new pedals outpaces my funds to buy them, so this might help. You are in the right place.
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Sep 4, 2023 16:05
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Tommy the Newt posted:Hi thread! Someone recently gave me a Small Clone clone they made from a GuitarPCB kit (the Mini-Me) and I've been really impressed with how good it sounds. It's made me want to get into pedal DIY, if they can be this solid. Also my thirst for new pedals outpaces my funds to buy them, so this might help. There are a ton of options for drive pedals! Whatever you pick I recommend using sockets for any components you might want to experiment with. You can buy strips of SIP sockets that you can cut to size very easily. The thing it's talking about is biasing a transistor and it's pretty easy if you have a digital multi meter. Here's a video about it, but it will vary slightly depending on the circuit. https://youtu.be/tyxZE0kAXdg?feature=shared I haven't found a good diy eq I like. I made the BYOC parametric and it's fine. For tremolo I've built two of the Aion FX Luna Terms and I'm a big fan of the amount of varied sounds I can get. https://aionfx.com/project/luna-optical-tremolo/
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Sep 4, 2023 18:59
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Armacham posted:There are a ton of options for drive pedals! Whatever you pick I recommend using sockets for any components you might want to experiment with. You can buy strips of SIP sockets that you can cut to size very easily. I'm totally new at this and have only ever done the most basic of electronics, so I don't really know what this means. Is this the same as 'breadboarding'? I was hoping to just buy a foolproof kit and follow the steps like a tiny IKEA shelf, but I'm not opposed to going deeper after. Armacham posted:The thing it's talking about is biasing a transistor and it's pretty easy if you have a digital multi meter. Here's a video about it, but it will vary slightly depending on the circuit. https://youtu.be/tyxZE0kAXdg?feature=shared Thanks for this, I'll add a multimeter to my list of purchases.
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Sep 4, 2023 20:56
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Tommy the Newt posted:I'm totally new at this and have only ever done the most basic of electronics, so I don't really know what this means. Is this the same as 'breadboarding'? I was hoping to just buy a foolproof kit and follow the steps like a tiny IKEA shelf, but I'm not opposed to going deeper after. Similar to breadboarding. I like to use sockets for transistors and integrated circuits to avoid overheating the component. Sometimes you can also change them out for a different sound. Most of the kits will have sockets for ICs and transistors included, so you shouldn't have to worry about that. Many kits you don't have to worry about biasing, but the multimeter is great to have to confirm the value of components, and testing continuity. The continuity function is especially useful for troubleshooting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KS4mgZ5ysqg And another for soldering. These are for amps, but the idea is the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OS2gmLpXcgk Lots of good videos on YouTube with examples, here's a good one I like to share https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sF3O4GmlJF4 Armacham fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Sep 4, 2023 |
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Sep 4, 2023 21:15
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Thanks for the links. I'm slowly getting geared up for it. Musikding don't start shipping again until the 11th so I've got time to paralyse myself with indecision. I think I might go for a Hotcake clone instead of the Llama because I have a Vox AC15 and I've always heard that's a good combination. They sell 3 variants (that I can find) on the website: https://www.musikding.de/Anomaly-kit https://www.musikding.de/Hot-Waffle-kit https://www.musikding.de/Awful-Waffle-kit Not sure which one to go for, and there aren't any samples I can find. The Hot Waffle is apparently a bit glassier, and the Anomaly is more complex to build (has a mode and XLF switch, the latter might be useful because I loop octaved bass parts out to a bass amp, but it's more effort).
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Sep 5, 2023 13:49
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All good choices. Soldering those little switches on isn't really that hard, so I say go for the anomaly if you want the customization. Especially if you are buying the predrilled enclosure.
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Sep 5, 2023 15:47
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Current state of affairs. My cable making has improved, I've purchased a bunch of used snakes and I've been cutting them up into smaller bits as needed. For cable-making I am just using flux paste, though I wouldn't for other soldering generally. This is not complete but at least it's starting to look kinda together. I haven't mastered these lab synths, I'm just making mud pies and having a lot of fun doing it. Also trying to come up with a slightly more ergonomic solution, I've been having to go from sitting to standing more often than I like. Any advice or criticism is welcome. And once again, special thanks to Jameskpolk for giving me these patchbays, I'm about to incorporate a second one, submixing most of the lab synths on the Mackie and running the music synths directly into the Focusrite. For today anyway. If there's any advice regarding signal path, mixing, electricity or just best practices, I'll hear them. And if anybody has an RD-8 or 9 that they want to sell or trade, pls talk to me. I'll eventually get one off Reverb otherwise.  And as you can see, you can fit two 19" racks on those wire shelves with one inch to spare. :-) I salvaged the rack rails from somebody's trash about 10 years ago, they finally came in handy. ED: the stuff in the lower left is mostly just stowed there, not currently in use. The one with the red LEDs just arrived in the mail and I've got high hopes for it. petit choux fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Sep 13, 2023 |
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Sep 13, 2023 17:56
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 Tube reverb, baby Edit:   Waiting for some parts before I can finish the wiring and the cabinet Armacham fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Sep 24, 2023 |
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Sep 23, 2023 21:19
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Armacham posted:Okay basically done. I need to add some shielding to the top of the cabinet since the chassis is open at the top to troubleshoot some noise, and check my soldering on the foot switch jack. I'll try to get some audio/video later!
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Sep 26, 2023 23:52
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Looks absolutly beautiful
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Sep 30, 2023 22:10
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I'm building a Hudson Broadcast clone now and the little audio transformer is so cute
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Oct 1, 2023 04:14
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OOooo, is that a kit?
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Oct 2, 2023 17:45
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JamesKPolk posted:OOooo, is that a kit? AionFX released a version of the PCB. No kit yet, but it's pretty easy to get all the parts together. https://aionfx.com/project/skywave-germanium-drive/
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Oct 2, 2023 19:59
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I built the Safety Valve from LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER, with a few modifications and additions (using a TL072 opamp instead of a TL071, added an LED that reacts to incoming audio), and recorded a demo of the output too! It's right here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfFzO0EFzCo
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Oct 4, 2023 03:51
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RocketMermaid posted:I built the Safety Valve from LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER, with a few modifications and additions (using a TL072 opamp instead of a TL071, added an LED that reacts to incoming audio), and recorded a demo of the output too! It's right here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfFzO0EFzCo that kicks rear end, sounds great! Valvecasters are a lot of fun. Fond memories of building them for guitars when I started in pedals. V cool to see them for synth! Might have to build one myself! Did you use the resistor/cap values in the schematic or play around with em? Also around 1:10, are you playing an actual bass guitar there or using some synth wizardry? Either way, great work!
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Oct 4, 2023 15:01
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Kvlt! posted:that kicks rear end, sounds great! Valvecasters are a lot of fun. Fond memories of building them for guitars when I started in pedals. V cool to see them for synth! Might have to build one myself! I stuck with the values in the schematic, other than I didn't have a 27 ohm resistor for the heater element and used a 22 ohm instead. And used a film capacitor instead of ceramic for the cap across two of the tube pins since I didn't have any ceramics of that value. I also accidentally wired all the potentiometers backwards  Everything before the BOC-style pads from Rings comes from the 4MS DIY Sampler's included samples, so that was just a bass guitar sample. But gently caress does it sound good through that 
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Oct 5, 2023 04:33
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RocketMermaid posted:I stuck with the values in the schematic, other than I didn't have a 27 ohm resistor for the heater element and used a 22 ohm instead. And used a film capacitor instead of ceramic for the cap across two of the tube pins since I didn't have any ceramics of that value. Lmao we've all done that I like film better than ceramic in almost all applications.
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Oct 5, 2023 04:56
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This was just kind of random, I had various pieces of scrap lumber lying around and I assembled it into this.  
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Oct 5, 2023 23:30
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I've been getting back into my modular stuff over the last few months and its been a good time. Back during lockdown I got into assembling modular kits, built a couple rack cases, that kind of thing. All the kits I assembled were through hole designs but I just found some diy kits and panel+pcb sets I bought a while ago and never got around to building that were SMD designs. I just put one of them together this last weekend and honestly I think SMD might actually be easier in a lot of ways than through hole? I certainly didn't miss having to snip off a million legs anyway. It was very enjoyable and now I want to build a bunch more stuff, especially stuff where I'm sourcing my own parts and learning more about that process. So I was looking over one of the pcb+panel sets I have, a 6hp Plaits clone, putting together a parts list and found out it needs to have the ARM programmed. I know nothing about this. I found some instructions in a Modwiggler thread and they might as well have been written in Cyrillic. Something about setting up linux virtual environments, compiling code and using JTAG programmers and I dont know what the gently caress. Has anyone done this? I'm not completely useless on a computer but this sounds like a massive PITA. Maybe it looks worse than it is? I'm a little wary of buying some programming board/device without knowing what I'm doing and it all being a waste of time and money because I don't know enough computer toucher poo poo. If anyone has experience with this, it'd be great to hear how it went.
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Oct 6, 2023 16:50
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800peepee51doodoo posted:I've been getting back into my modular stuff over the last few months and its been a good time. Back during lockdown I got into assembling modular kits, built a couple rack cases, that kind of thing. All the kits I assembled were through hole designs but I just found some diy kits and panel+pcb sets I bought a while ago and never got around to building that were SMD designs. I just put one of them together this last weekend and honestly I think SMD might actually be easier in a lot of ways than through hole? I certainly didn't miss having to snip off a million legs anyway. It was very enjoyable and now I want to build a bunch more stuff, especially stuff where I'm sourcing my own parts and learning more about that process. I did it with a DIY Rings module. I got the ST-LINK V2 programmer from Mouser for about $25, and tried doing it with the official ST Micro software, which did not work on my Mac. Then I downloaded the official Mutable programming environment stuff from GitHub, followed the instructions, failed a bunch of times, realized I had the JTAG connection flipped the wrong way, and then it worked really easily. It’s not hard so much as really poorly explained for people who haven’t done it before.
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Oct 6, 2023 17:28
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Rod Hoofhearted posted:I did it with a DIY Rings module. I got the ST-LINK V2 programmer from Mouser for about $25, and tried doing it with the official ST Micro software, which did not work on my Mac. Then I downloaded the official Mutable programming environment stuff from GitHub, followed the instructions, failed a bunch of times, realized I had the JTAG connection flipped the wrong way, and then it worked really easily. I appreciate the response. Its good to hear that it wasn't too hard. Poor explanations of technical subjects really triggers my grad school PTSD. While trying to find some more info this eve, I stumbled on a couple of videos of people who had built diy mutable instruments clones. Heroically, they used actual human language to describe how they flashed the chips. One of them even has a github with the .hex files already created for plaits (here if anyone else is interested). It makes me wonder why I had to scour the depths of youtube to find that instead of, you know, just getting it off the MI website in the first place but whatever. So I ordered a programmer from bezos that was used in one of those videos and I'm gonna give it a shot. I also ordered a few more kits, including a Rings clone. Now I just need to spend some time going over BOMs and putting together a big ol mouser cart. Edit: Turns out a bunch of MI modules including Rings use an audio codec processor that was discontinued recently. All of the reputable outlets are out of stock and there's no direct replacement from the original manufacturer or anyone else. Hopefully these chips I ordered from some random ebay account are legit! 800peepee51doodoo fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Oct 7, 2023 |
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Oct 7, 2023 05:34
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800peepee51doodoo posted:It makes me wonder why I had to scour the depths of youtube to find that instead of, you know, just getting it off the MI website in the first place but whatever. I understand where you're coming from, but part of the reason why MI doesn't exist anymore is exactly this. Émilie went much further than most in sharing and documenting the hardware and software in her products, which led to a bunch of copy-paste boards/clones being sold at prices that obviously didn't include the time and effort that went into designing and developing them in the first place. Worse, the MI support channels - also just Émilie - would get flooded with requests that basically came down to 'help me clone your module' or 'help me troubleshoot this cloned module'. It seems pretty much impossible to strike a balance in eurorack between publishing so others can troubleshoot and extend your product, and still make a living off of it. Firmwares have always been released as audio files, which is much easier if you've never flashed a MCU before but won't let you bootstrap a module without the correct bootloader already on it. There's also plenty of explainers (e.g. here) and .hex files around the internet, but not first-party because of above. A big problem in general is that there's so many programmers and programming environments out there that you'll never cover all of them, so the virtual dev environment seems like a good enough solution. The assumption that the user has the technical skills to work with it is no accident, because the default would have been to buy an original module otherwise. I'm not one to cast stones here because I've also built my own versions from the design files. Should have compiled firmwares for most MI modules lying around (Plaits, Rings, ..) so hit me up if you need any. There's a thread on ModWiggler that has a lot of them as well but can't find it right now.
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Oct 8, 2023 08:59
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Sinecure posted:I understand where you're coming from, but part of the reason why MI doesn't exist anymore is exactly this. Émilie went much further than most in sharing and documenting the hardware and software in her products, which led to a bunch of copy-paste boards/clones being sold at prices that obviously didn't include the time and effort that went into designing and developing them in the first place. Worse, the MI support channels - also just Émilie - would get flooded with requests that basically came down to 'help me clone your module' or 'help me troubleshoot this cloned module'. It seems pretty much impossible to strike a balance in eurorack between publishing so others can troubleshoot and extend your product, and still make a living off of it. I realized after I posted that I was more annoyed at the modwiggler posts with poorly explained technical processes instead of going "yeah its a bit of thing, here's the hex file" and not that MI didn't support it. I get that Emilie had open sourced the files for people to work on and expand, not to provide tech support to DIYers. That said, I don't think she has ever said specifically why she shut MI down and any reasons given are speculation and rumor as far as I can tell. I doubt that clones and DIYers had a significant financial impact, considering the popularity of MI modules and the propensity for musicians to highly value original gear over "cheap fakes". But maybe, as you say, she was annoyed and overwhelmed by people trying to get tech support for DIY clones and all of the hassle that represents. It seems more likely to me that MI probably wasn't as interesting and fulfilling as a business as it was as a design project but that's my speculation and there's no way to really know unless she says something publicly. Personally, I think its insanely awesome that she provided her designs as open source and it guarantees that her ideas will continue to be used pretty much as long as synths exist, and that is an overwhelming positive imo. Anyway, thanks for the offer of the firmware files, I super appreciate it. I got a pre-flashed ARM for the Rings pcb but I might do a different module at some point. Although, I'm not sure if I'm going to try to assemble any other MI builds since it seems like the WM8731S audio codec component that's used in a lot of those designs is no longer made and there are no replacement parts in the same configuration. I think a lot of the DIY pcb designs that are out there are DOA, or will be soon when NOS supplies of that chip dry up.
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Oct 8, 2023 21:30
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Emile’s official statement about closing down MI said it had to do with the manufacturing side of things. Benn Jordan just released a new video today on the death of Moog and he mentioned that the whole Chinese manufacturing process can devastate smaller companies when they don’t do it right and the synth company has to fight them to get it redone, during which their cash flow is tied up and they don’t have a product to ship. It made me think of Emile’s public statement on closing down MI.
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Oct 8, 2023 21:42
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The MI development environment and libraries helped jumpstart my own projects and I’m super thankful I don’t have to headache myself through stuff like filter implementations etc. I think she can be proud of her legacy, I know we all are. That said I’m having a heck of a time porting it all over to the STM32 L series; STM has discontinued support for their old peripheral library, and I am going to be pretty much starting over from scratch (though I can drop in most of the high-level code just fine).
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Oct 8, 2023 22:40
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For a while it was like impossible to get STM32 anything too
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Oct 9, 2023 20:26
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Finished an aionfx trivibe for a friend of mine! And I've got together supplies for my next project 
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Oct 9, 2023 22:35
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Heck yeah tape stuff! What’s it going to be? BTW I just wanted to say it’s great seeing this thread so active with everyone’s cool wacky projects.
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Oct 9, 2023 23:04
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snorch posted:Heck yeah tape stuff! What’s it going to be? It's a tape delay based on an old magazine project called an echomatic. The project box will hold the electronics, and then the signal is sent through the input of a 3 head tape player and read through the tape monitor head. If you have a stereo player you can stack channels, or you can stack multiple tape players as well. Coming along nicely so far  Also I can't remember if I posted that I added pink knobs and a blue jewel to my 8 watt. Definitely helps the toan 
Armacham fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Oct 11, 2023 |
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Oct 10, 2023 02:19
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I'm also building a big rear end tube echo/overdrive
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Oct 13, 2023 19:35
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I have a dumb question. I'm putting together a eurorack module from a pcb and parts I sourced myself from the provided BOM. Mostly going ok although the fine pitch ICs are challenging. The problem I'm running into is that there are a couple of bipolar PNP transistors with 6 pins that don't seem to have any polarity markers I can see. No bevel, no dot, no line. The BOM shows what looks like a polarity marker on the pcb. Is there a way to tell which way to orient the transistor without that mark on the component? Does it matter? I have a professionally built unit I can compare this to and I'm not seeing any polarity indicators on those components either. This is the interactive BOM, the transistors in question are Q1 and Q2: file:///E:/Music%20-%20Synth%20Samples%20Plugins%20Etc/DIY%20Files/uJOVE%20Files/uJOVE%201.2%20BOM.html This is the transistor I have from the BOM excel file with the mouser part number: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/BC857BS-7-F?qs=rGAXPo9uwV0Q8cbvWF99GA%3D%3D Also, I'm realizing that the part numbers are slightly different and I think there was an error on the excel BOM. It looks like the difference between BCM vs BC is that the BCM sku is a matched pair. Not sure how big of a difference that makes. Anyway, if anyone has any insight it would be appreciated!
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Oct 22, 2023 19:54
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800peepee51doodoo posted:I have a dumb question. I'm putting together a eurorack module from a pcb and parts I sourced myself from the provided BOM. Mostly going ok although the fine pitch ICs are challenging. The problem I'm running into is that there are a couple of bipolar PNP transistors with 6 pins that don't seem to have any polarity markers I can see. No bevel, no dot, no line. The BOM shows what looks like a polarity marker on the pcb. Is there a way to tell which way to orient the transistor without that mark on the component? Does it matter? I have a professionally built unit I can compare this to and I'm not seeing any polarity indicators on those components either. I think that the BC sku is a single transistor on an IC with 3 pins and the BCM is two transistors on the same IC with 6 pins. Can you try posting the BOM/schematic link again? I think that IC is both Q1 and Q2, but I need to see the schematic and BOM to be sure. E: I found the BOM and it looks like you do have the correct part and orientation doesn't matter. Armacham fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Oct 22, 2023 |
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Oct 22, 2023 20:09
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