|
Armacham posted:Looking at the datasheet for that IC, the orientation doesn't matter since it has rotational symmetry. Yeah, not sure why that link came out that way but here's an actual link: https://diy.plum-audio.com/projects/uJove/iBom/ I have the the BC sku and it is a 6 pin. Are you saying that the BCM is two transistors in one component? That would make sense I suppose. I might have the wrong component then. Glad I didn't yolo that thing onto the board already
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2023 20:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 3, 2024 22:46 |
|
|
800peepee51doodoo posted:Yeah, not sure why that link came out that way but here's an actual link: https://diy.plum-audio.com/projects/uJove/iBom/ If you click through the mouser link you posted and look at the datasheet you will see a pin out.  I'm pretty sure you have the right part. I was wrong about the part number for that series. I'm a little rusty with transistors and I don't use surface mount. Being matched just means that the two transistors on the chip with be tested to have the same hfe. For most applications this doesn't matter.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2023 20:37
|
|
|
Armacham posted:If you click through the mouser link you posted and look at the datasheet you will see a pin out. Ok cool. I am not anywhere close to being an EE and datasheets are largely hieroglyphics to me. But, yeah, now that you point it out it looks like the direction doesn't matter. Thanks for walking me through that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2023 20:53
|
|
|
 Almost done with this monster
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2023 14:16
|
|
|
Looking for a little advice here. My vocalist has a bass drum we added legs to so he can hit it with mallets when not singing. He wants lights to react to it when he hits it. I got a cheap set of lights that have a sound activated mode that reacts the way we want so we mounted them inside. The issue is how they react. Hitting the rim or the shell or muting the skin with one mallet it triggers immediatly with each hit. Hitting the skin, however, it keeps colour changing as the skin vibrates. We want the immidiate reaction only on the hits. We can lose the control from the rim/shell if necessey. So basicly, is there something I can do like cover the microphone with something that will let in the low bass hits but not the vibrations? Can I add something to the circuit? Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2023 22:35
|
|
|
MettleRamiel posted:Looking for a little advice here. My vocalist has a bass drum we added legs to so he can hit it with mallets when not singing. He wants lights to react to it when he hits it. Might have already tried this but does moving the sensor help? I'd assume lower on one of the legs would make it less susceptible to the ongoing vibration. Depends what else is going on onstage so might not work though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2023 22:52
|
|
|
MettleRamiel posted:Can I add something to the circuit? Any ideas? what lights are you using?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2023 00:38
|
|
|
Kingo Ligma posted:Might have already tried this but does moving the sensor help? I'd assume lower on one of the legs would make it less susceptible to the ongoing vibration. Depends what else is going on onstage so might not work though. They are, unfortunatly as far away from the skin as can be. Kvlt! posted:what lights are you using? They are some nameless white leds with gel covers and 1 button to choose between static, alternating and sound activated. Highly unlikely there will be any kind of documentation for these anywhere. I plan to open then up and see what I'm dealing with and obviously I don't expect anyone to reverse engineer these things with no information, but as an electrical novice, I had hoped that there might be some standard for putting a variable resister in line with the mic to lower it's sensitivity or something. I tried a couple thicknesses of foam over the mic but that seemed to do nothing much for the low end, just reduced the high end response a bit. Thanks for writing back, guys!
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2023 10:36
|
|
|
Built myself the Twin-T kick drum as described here: https://soundbender36.wordpress.com/2021/01/24/25-bis-synthetiseur-modulaire-diy-twin-t-kick-drum/ It's a great little project and it sounds awesome, and for once I got it working on the first try. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2023 01:58
|
|
|
Populating a board for a tweed deluxe
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2023 22:36
|
|
|
Almost done with the cabinet and wiring the chassis
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2023 21:42
|
|
|
Armacham posted:Almost done with the cabinet and wiring the chassis That's beautiful
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2024 06:53
|
|
|
For decades I've been content playing through the same old amp modeller out of some bookshelf speakers, but dang that makes me want to build an amp.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2024 18:55
|
|
|
Just wondering if anyone has modded a Korg Poly 800. I have a question regards adding an internal battery.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2024 05:13
|
|
|
I saw this video of a clone someone built of the Casper Electronics Echo Bender the other day and thought it sounded pretty cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsltVQBihu4 I want to build my own, but don't feel like messing with vero board, or getting a PCB and sourcing parts. I found this kit from Effects Pedal kits that I think is the same thing: https://effectpedalkits.com/shop/echobender-machine-kit/ Has anyone built anything from them? Doesn't look that different from stuff i've bought from PedalPCB or BYOC, but I also can't find anyone who's built one from this exact kit.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2024 01:42
|
|
|
Havent built that kit but ive done kits from that site before and theyre def legit
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2024 01:50
|
|
|
frogbs posted:I saw this video of a clone someone built of the Casper Electronics Echo Bender the other day and thought it sounded pretty cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsltVQBihu4 Yeah the schematic and instructions seem reasonable.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2024 02:07
|
|
|
Looking to replace a missing arm for a bigsby clone on an older guitar I bought: Would this arm from amazon work for it? https://a.co/d/9BMe6AW
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 21:00
|
|
|
Elissimpark posted:Just wondering if anyone has modded a Korg Poly 800. I have a question regards adding an internal battery. I have not, but I can likely help. What's your question? Looks like it runs on 9v centre negative which is the same as most guitar pedals.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2024 18:30
|
|
|
My original question I think is sorted - basically, it's presets have to be reloaded if it's C cell batteries are removed. Some versions have an internal C2032 to maintain memory. Some (like mine) have the space and tabs to install one. Some don't have that and it gets tricky. I'd misremembered which version I had. That said, the C cells don't power up the keyboard. External power is fine. Initially, I thought because the battery spring was rusted, but I've cleaned that and the issue persists. How would I troubleshoot the battery wiring?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 03:12
|
|
|
You need to get a multimeter and check for continuity for the positive and negative connections. If you have a harbor freight nearby they have one for like 5 bucks. Probably can find one on Amazon for cheap too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 04:05
|
|
|
 of course continuity. I'll have a look tonight.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 04:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 3, 2024 22:46 |
|
|
Well. There was no continuity when I popped it open last night, and it wasn't turning on with the batteries. So I got distracted and fixed a wonky key (its spring had slipped off its spring-knob-thing), unscrewed the volume/power knob to see if there were any obvious issues (the sound is crackly, but can be fixed by resting a finger on the pot) and pulled out the joystick board (just because). As I was putting all the screws back, I noticed the power was on with just the batteries, so yay. No idea what the issue had been - maybe too much key gunk. Now to find a mono 3.5 aux to load factory presets.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 23:23
|
|