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 thanks for making this thread. I figured out a/c systems mostly through trial and error on my previous garbage cars, i do a lot of electrical diag but i just never got into a/c stuff professionally. Going to throw guages on my 07 caddy DTS tomorrow and try to see if anything's wrong, it doesn't really get cold at idle and at lowish RPM's, and isn't really cold on full blast, but at low/medium blower settings and after a wot shift it's cold. hoping it's just low and my compressor isn't tired, northstars make everything a huge pain in the rear end to replace. Captain Crabsticks fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jun 29, 2018 |
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Jun 29, 2018 15:41
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Got my uv light out and was all ready to start looking for where all my refrig leaked out over the weekend but then Welp I mean it's nice that the problem was right up front like HELLO but goddamn, how did that hose wiggle entirely off
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Jun 29, 2018 16:19
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So...sorry for the bad orientation...rotate it 90 degrees to the right if you were looking at the engine. Looks like a high probable cause for a leak right?
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Jun 29, 2018 16:22
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C-Bangin' it 
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And with that said, here is said part. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1998,expedition,5.4l+v8,1304402,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+refrigerant+hose,6900 Sadly, I cannot direct link to the exact pic, but the wrinkle is I have rear air on this bastard. So looking at FOUR SEASONS 56371 Hose Assembly to take care of this leak. Granted, I'm sure I have another leak or two due to rear air but this looks like it will eliminate quite a few. And if you ever worked on an Expedition...you'd be more inclined to stick your dick in a light socket. Amazed at what you get for $68 bucks.
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Jun 29, 2018 17:05
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Colostomy Bag posted:
I've noticed Ford pricing is pretty reasonable. I got a turn signal/wiper stalk for my f150 for $30 and it was the expensive one. The same thing on my wife's MINI included the steering angle sensor, so naturally it was $900.
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Jun 29, 2018 17:51
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Back to the ongoing 240 a/c saga: by the end of May I decided the a/c was leaky or over/undercharged or I hosed something up somehow. Considering the cash, non-sentimental value of the car I didn’t want to really spend much more money on this experiment so I let it go. I had driven the car for two years without a/c and it was hot but tolerable here in the humid South with the windows down so I decided I’d live with no ac, but then I decided to test it again a couple weeks ago. I really don’t know how long ac compressors are supposed to cycle in a healthy system but basically the car will still cool the cabin on rec/windows up. The compressor will run for a long time if you start the car and put the a/c on, maybe indefinitely? which I don’t think it’s supposed to do necessarily. But, if you turn on the a/c while driving it will run for anywhere from 5 seconds to 20-30 seconds depending on engine load/rpm/etc. This seems short to me but what do I know. I can get the same 48 degree air out of the vents at 90 degrees ambient temp after about 5-10 minutes. Engine temp on the car with bypassed faker board never even approaches the middle of the scale even in traffic. So I’m actually considering it a success and my “oh no it’s all broken the sky is falling” posts premature.
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Jun 29, 2018 22:44
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so, upon trying to charge my cadillac, I discovered that my manifold gauge set's low side hose was collapsed inside and the high side was getting there, which would explain why the last time i tried to charge a car from empty it acted weird and gave me odd readings. I think this may be due to a can of that stop leak poo poo a customer asked me to put in once because the o-rings were like super swelled up and crazy looking in addition. don't use that poo poo lol edit: oh yeah then i borrowed someone else's hoses and put like 200g of refrigerant + some ice32 with my dye injector in and it's now cold as fucc at full blast at idle. i got light frost or like condensation on the windshield where the vents are Captain Crabsticks fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jun 30, 2018 |
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Jun 30, 2018 02:22
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I noticed my AC had stopped working, and wasn't working for the whole drive. But then at the end it just randomly turned on. Didn't feel much cooler though. Cut out after a couple of minutes. I think it has been leaking since a few months back, but not become very noticeable until recently. I seem to remember reading about some pressure sensor (evap valve?) or something that turns the AC off if the coolant is gone to not allow it to run "dry". Could it be that the pressure was too low, momentarily turned on when the pressure for some reason got up, then cut out again? During the time it wasn't working, pressing the AC button did nothing. When it works it usually sounds, feels and blows differently. Made me think the AC wasn't engaging at all. Going to go leak searching when doing other service items later this summer. I think the place that I got the AC refilled at 2 years ago used some green dye (which could be seen). Hoping for condensor...
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Jun 30, 2018 14:38
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1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L V6, 4WD The A/C does not work now, but it worked (kinda weakly) when I bought the truck, 3 years ago. I haven't had much reason to use it for a while, but we're sitting in a hot & humid weekend here and A/C would be really nice. The compressor looks OK but the clutch never engages. I can put the selector on either A/C or MAX A/C (MAX I think is 90's-Ford's way of closing outside vents and recirculating) and it blows air, just not cold air. Incoming air feels the same as when I just put it on normal vents and set the temperature dial all the way to the end of Blue, which I believe just closes the blend door so no air is circulating through the heater core. Hot air works fine, the blend door is working. The advice for recharging starts with "you can hear the clutch clicking on and off" and mine is NOT doing that. I can get a new clutch from Rockauto for about $70, or a complete compressor kit for around $200. I watched some Youtube videos and I'm pretty sure I could swap out the clutch if that was the problem, without disconnecting any pressurized lines (probably, haven't actually tried). Is there a way to diagnose the need for just a clutch, an entire compressor, or some other part? Thanks, this is a great thread.
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Jun 30, 2018 20:04
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A slightly low system will quick-cycle like that, but a system that's almost completely empty will just never kick in; the low-pressure switch will cut power to the clutch. Step 1 is to get a gauge set on your system and see what static pressure is, you can't make any decisions before doing that. If it's low enough not to engage then your system is very nearly empty, but if it's holding at least some pressure you might be able to do a recharge. E: If you feel confident playing with electricity, you can check the clutch with the engine off. Unplug the connector, run wires from the battery to the clutch pins. According to this diagram power should go to the pin that has a black wire with yellow stripe, solid black is ground. The clutch should snap shut if it's good. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jun 30, 2018 |
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Jun 30, 2018 21:37
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CommieGIR posted:Still better than R-12, and we let people dust their PCs with compressed R-134A and R-152A Yeah lol, my stupid boss wouldn't get us an air compressor at work for the longest time so we dumped easily 5-10 cans of R134a into the atmosphere every week (I repair PCs).
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Jul 1, 2018 08:55
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So since my system is empty anyway, I'm gonna replace my schrader valves while I have the chance. Rockauto has this kit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1251685&cc=1198627&jsn=411  The only valves I know of are high side and low side, are there others I need to do as well or is that just shotgunning a variety of possible valves it might have? (The factory r12 or an 134a conversion or ???)
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Jul 2, 2018 00:57
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It's probably a shotgun parts kit.
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Jul 2, 2018 02:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's probably a shotgun parts kit. That's exactly what that is. Fits many, but you will only use two of the valves - they're all different. Buddy got a 2000 Pontiac Sunfire for free a while back, and we got the AC working (a necessity in North TX), but the compressor was pretty noisy. It finally poo poo itself a week or so ago - shaft seal blew. We were hoping that was all it did, but of course it wasn't. Metal shavings and black death. Flushed about a gallon of flush through the evap and condenser (1/2 gallon in each, with the orifice, compressor, and receiver/drier removed), and while the evap was clean, the condenser was not. I guess it's pretty difficult to thoroughly clean a parallel-flow condenser? Would seem like it should be, given how they work. The used flush had some amazing roiling metallic patterns in it. He's out of money, so for the time being, we just stuck all the old components back in there just to keep things from dangling and small animals out of the hoses. I'm thinking that he should just replace the condenser at this point. Very few shops will flush a system without providing parts and fixing it, and my buddy already has a new compressor, receiver/drier, orifice tube, and of course o-ring kit. Thoughts?
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Jul 2, 2018 22:02
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I bought that valve kit and ended up using exactly one of them because I was changing from r12 to r134a valves. It didn't seem like it was worth the $8 but you'd be pissed if all your work was for nothing because of some stupid Schrader valve.
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Jul 3, 2018 03:06
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I'm pretty sure my valves are what has been farting out half a can of refrig a year, but topping it off with half of a $5 can per summer was in every way financially more sound than dealing with replacing them, so I was leaving it be. Now poo poo's good and empty anyway, I may as well take care of it.
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Jul 3, 2018 08:36
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Enourmo posted:A slightly low system will quick-cycle like that, but a system that's almost completely empty will just never kick in; the low-pressure switch will cut power to the clutch. Step 1 is to get a gauge set on your system and see what static pressure is, you can't make any decisions before doing that. If it's low enough not to engage then your system is very nearly empty, but if it's holding at least some pressure you might be able to do a recharge. Good to know, thanks. I won't be able to monkey with it until *maybe* the weekend, but I should be able to e-test it like that. Do parts stores rent pressure gauges?
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Jul 3, 2018 15:27
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Just workposting to say that I have taken airconditioning for granted and I would like to apologize to whatever god of Refrigeration I have insulted. Its currently raining outside so its both very humid and warm in my control room. 28'c/82ish f(?) @ Turkish sauna Rel. Hunidity
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Jul 3, 2018 19:50
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Javid posted:
So that turns out to be this connection here:  Which is not really meant to disconnect ever so that entire assembly needs to get replaced. Happily that's the drier/accumulator which I was going to replace anyway since the system is now open to air. My mechanic also wants to replace "the little screen filter that's in there" which is not a part name rockauto has, but this looks pretty close:  Which is the part with the wildest range of prices I've ever seen; what is visibly the exact same thing can be bought for anywhere between $0.32 to $24.79.  I'll be showing my mechanic the pics and options to see if it matters.Is there anything else I should look at replacing while the system is open to air anyway? I'm already doing all the schrader valves. E: also Sormus posted:Just workposting to say that I have taken airconditioning for granted and I would like to apologize to whatever god of Refrigeration I have insulted. Jesus Christ this. Two weeks driving my nice, tinted, insulated, rear-window-i-can-open-for-airflow-having van made me forget what a loving broiler my untinted coupe with fixed rear windows is in summer. If the van didn't have other urgent issues I'd be taking the mpg hit to drive it around while I wait for this to get fixed. Javid fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 07:11
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My hose assembly is on its way with o-rings. Do they need to be lubricated (assuming so) before insertion and if so would just a smidge of mineral oil be ok?
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Jul 4, 2018 19:26
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Colostomy Bag posted:My hose assembly is on its way with o-rings. Do they need to be lubricated (assuming so) before insertion and if so would just a smidge of mineral oil be ok? Yes they need to be lubricated. Lube the o-rings with whatever oil your system is using. PAG or Ester for anything R-134. Mineral oil if R-12.
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Jul 4, 2018 21:43
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I took a closer look at what I need for the ac system on my AE86. A previous owner got into an accident that damaged the front bumper, twisted the frame horns, and I presume killed the condenser, since they removed it and the hard line that goes across the car in front of it. They also took an unobtainium drier bracket and hard line along with the condenser. The aforementioned hard line across the front is also unobtainium, but should be fairly easy to fabricate since it has no silly bends. WTB posts in a TX AE86 FB group have been kind of iffy. One guy wants to sell me the whole AC system for $500. Yeah, bro, I don’t need anything but the hoses and bracket. I’ll be buying a new condenser ($122) and drier ($15). Ugh. I want to drive this thing, but it’s too hot without ac.
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Jul 4, 2018 21:49
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Darchangel posted:Yes they need to be lubricated. Lube the o-rings with whatever oil your system is using. PAG or Ester for anything R-134. Mineral oil if R-12. Thanks. Makes sense. Now 46 or 100? Hell if I can figure it out on a 98 ford. Appears to be 46 after researching a bit more.
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Jul 4, 2018 22:00
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Hose assembly came. My god. When looking at things from the hood you think not a problem. Then you get the box of the part and it is like "how am I going to shove 10lbs of crap into a 5lb bag?
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Jul 5, 2018 21:29
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There is a brass fitting on top of the compressor fitting. I'm assuming it is a bleed fitting and not to worry about it, correct?
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Jul 5, 2018 22:35
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Colostomy Bag posted:There is a brass fitting on top of the compressor fitting. I'm assuming it is a bleed fitting and not to worry about it, correct? Does it look something like this?  On my WJ, my understanding is it's basically a safety relief valve, so if poo poo goes way wrong it vents underhood instead of popping the evaporator or something.
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Jul 5, 2018 23:29
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Yeah makes sense. I'm frankly amazed what $68 can buy for this assembly. A) It is huge with a crap load of different fittings, new caps, o-rings, etc. B) It's in a heavy duty dry-cleaning type bag that you can hang in your closet because it has a hanger.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:25
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Yeah, that's the high pressure relief valve.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:27
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Colostomy Bag posted:Hose assembly came. My god. I have a special dislike for manufacturers that permanently attach hoses to a thing that has to be replaced when serviced, and that's one reason. The other is that drier should be like $15, if it were by itself. On the plus side, probably two fewer potential leaks.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:37
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The A/C on my wife's 2011 Honda Civic sedan is working intermittently. Always blows but sometimes the air just isn't cooled, sometimes (even in the same trip) it's very cooled. This just started this week on a holiday trip, and we don't drive it much and almost never use the A/C, so it's no rush but I'd like to know if there's a few easy things to check / clean. Cabin filter is an obvious one but I replaced it a year ago, still I'll try that. Any other things to look at without opening the whole system up?
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Jul 6, 2018 14:49
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alnilam posted:The A/C on my wife's 2011 Honda Civic sedan is working intermittently. Always blows but sometimes the air just isn't cooled, sometimes (even in the same trip) it's very cooled. This just started this week on a holiday trip, and we don't drive it much and almost never use the A/C, so it's no rush but I'd like to know if there's a few easy things to check / clean. Cabin filter is an obvious one but I replaced it a year ago, still I'll try that. Any other things to look at without opening the whole system up? Fluctuating temps are not a filter issue, its likely you need a recharge. Check to make sure your evaporator drain isn't plugged and that your evaporator is not icing up as well.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:57
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Is it warmer on the driver's side than the passenger side? Get some gauges on both the low and high sides and see what's going on. Could be a stuck expansion valve, which is apparently not uncommon on Hondas.
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Jul 6, 2018 15:03
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Cool I'll check the evaporator drain, thanks. I doubt it was iced up as the warm air came out first, i.e. the system hadn't been running so it couldn't have built up ice. But I'll check that too the next time I can replicate the problem.
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Jul 6, 2018 15:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is it warmer on the driver's side than the passenger side? I don't think so, it was warm everywhere. I don't have gauges so I'd rather eliminate other possibilities before buying some, but I'll keep that in mind.
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Jul 6, 2018 15:10
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Darchangel posted:I have a special dislike for manufacturers that permanently attach hoses to a thing that has to be replaced when serviced, and that's one reason. The other is that drier should be like $15, if it were by itself. On the plus side, probably two fewer potential leaks. Replacing the drier on this one is a hellish job. Yes, I would like to replace it. My goal right now is to replace this assembly, and see where the vacuum falls. I'm sure there are other leaks, but if I can get it to the point where I just need to top it off each year and last for the summer I'll be more than drat happy (and so will the better half).
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Jul 6, 2018 15:40
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alnilam posted:I don't think so, it was warm everywhere. You can rent gauges from most parts stores with a fully refundable deposit.
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Jul 6, 2018 17:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:You can rent gauges from most parts stores with a fully refundable deposit. Find an Oreilly near you with this in stock https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...s/67127/4700298 Sorry for the huge link. Oreilly I think gives you 48 or 72 hours to return it for a full refund but most of the time they don’t really care as long as you’re not being a dick to the counter workers and don’t keep it for like a month. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 21:04
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berth ell pup posted:Find an Oreilly near you with this in stock https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...s/67127/4700298 Heh, that's the set I own. I can't remember what I paid several years ago for it but (from my apprentice eyes) it is pretty dang solid. As in, I don't really worry about it exploding, gauges seem nice, fittings are good, etc. But...always be aware the power of compressed gases. Especially on the high side.
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Jul 6, 2018 23:15
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It seemed pretty decent when I rented it but unfortunately I was getting way ahead of myself and didn't actually need it then. I've played around some with the Harbor Freight set a coworker loaned me and it didn't seem terrible either. I think it's $60 without a coupon which didn't seem too bad. Or any decent pawn shop will have a pile of Ritchie R12 ones for about $50 each and you could buy adaptor pieces and have a drat decent set for ~$80. Might even get lucky and find a set of the R134a kind. Or buy Ritchie R134a hoses but I don't know the cost on those. It's been hot as hell and even more humid here lately but I drove for a few hours in extremely rural Tennessee yesterday with clear skies and 92F temps and very high humidity and my repaired AC performed well the whole time which makes me unreasonably happy. The cabin, while not frigid, was comfortably cool and that's really all you can expect from a 28-year-old R12-converted system. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Jul 7, 2018 |
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Jul 7, 2018 01:32
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Ok, before I attempt surgery, my assembly has a muffler. Does it collect oil like the drier?
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Jul 8, 2018 18:20
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