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I have a 2013 Ford Focus stick shift car and I have a question about the air conditioner. It is not working well. The problem is best described as: I turn it on and it runs well blowing out cold air for about 20 minutes. It then begins blowing out much less cold air and smelling kind of like a wet moist swamp with socks left in it. If I turn off the AC for about twenty minutes and keep driving, then turn it back on, it blows new fresh cold air well again for about twenty more minutes before it gets warm with the smell again. Two caveats I’ve noticed. One, if I have the “recirculate interior air” button off it works a tiny bit better but is assuredly not cold cold air coming out like it does at startup, but does not ever have that wet swampy smell no matter how long I keep it on. Two, If the temperature outside is below about 85-90 degrees I do not have any problems at all and the AC will run well indefinitely without smell. I don’t know much but I imagine water condensation is building up inside the coils and not venting or something? I tried recharging it with store bought Freon and that did not help, but the pressure of the Freon to begin with was not low. I once had a car that leaked Freon and would have to refill it often and this doesn’t seem to be that problem. Any ideas and what I should be asking a mechanic for would be super appreciated. Thanks!
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Jul 26, 2018 02:45
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We're having pretty much the exact same problem in my dads 2014 Volvo V70. Apparently he did a AC maintenance thing in 2016, so shouldn't be any problem in that area. We too are having high temperatures (30 degres C) and unusually high humidity. The AC turns on for a while, then shuts off. After driving at faster speeds it turns on again for a while, often until we stop or get down to slower speeds. All fans spin (very loudly). I'm inclined to think it's heat soak from the engine causing the AC to shut off to protect from overheating. The swampy part might be a cabin filter that's become a bit wet due to humidity, maybe? Clogged AC drain (I keep forgetting to check under the car after driving it)?
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Jul 26, 2018 13:54
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MrOnBicycle posted:We're having pretty much the exact same problem in my dads 2014 Volvo V70. Apparently he did a AC maintenance thing in 2016, so shouldn't be any problem in that area. We too are having high temperatures (30 degres C) and unusually high humidity. The AC turns on for a while, then shuts off. After driving at faster speeds it turns on again for a while, often until we stop or get down to slower speeds. All fans spin (very loudly). I'm inclined to think it's heat soak from the engine causing the AC to shut off to protect from overheating. The swampy part might be a cabin filter that's become a bit wet due to humidity, maybe? Clogged AC drain (I keep forgetting to check under the car after driving it)? I suspect you have the same issue the earlier models had. Here's a good test: Manually turn off the AC compressor for 5-7 minutes, then try turning it back on. If it works: Your issue is the AC clutch.
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Jul 26, 2018 13:56
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Blind Rasputin posted:I have a 2013 Ford Focus stick shift car and I have a question about the air conditioner. It is not working well. The problem is best described as: I turn it on and it runs well blowing out cold air for about 20 minutes. It then begins blowing out much less cold air and smelling kind of like a wet moist swamp with socks left in it. If I turn off the AC for about twenty minutes and keep driving, then turn it back on, it blows new fresh cold air well again for about twenty more minutes before it gets warm with the smell again. Two caveats I’ve noticed. One, if I have the “recirculate interior air” button off it works a tiny bit better but is assuredly not cold cold air coming out like it does at startup, but does not ever have that wet swampy smell no matter how long I keep it on. Two, If the temperature outside is below about 85-90 degrees I do not have any problems at all and the AC will run well indefinitely without smell. I don’t know much but I imagine water condensation is building up inside the coils and not venting or something? I had a 2012 automatic and the wet socks smell is your likely very nasty cabin filter. It's a serious bitch to get a filter out of, since to do it right, you have to unplug the connectors to the BCM that lives behind the glove box and drop the BCM out. Then you can slide the filter out of the hatch on the side of the heater box. They put that filter really close to the little radiator thing(evaporator?) and it gets wet as a result. It's an awful design. You can also wad the fucker up like most people do, but then it's even more likely to sit up against that radiator. Found a how-to
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Jul 26, 2018 16:34
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I have a new to me 1985 Chevy C20 pickup, and the A/C doesn't work. Not sure where to even start - the blower doesn't blow at all, so it doesn't have heat either. It looks like it's still a R12 system, and the previous owner said he got a quote for $400 from a shop to get it working, but didn't bother before he sold it. That's all I know about it currently. This is a weekend hauler/cruiser, so repairing it would be nice so I can drive while it's 100+ outside in Texas but it's not crucial to get it working ASAP. What's my first step on diagnosing this?
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Jul 28, 2018 23:24
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:I have a new to me 1985 Chevy C20 pickup, and the A/C doesn't work. Not sure where to even start - the blower doesn't blow at all, so it doesn't have heat either. It looks like it's still a R12 system, and the previous owner said he got a quote for $400 from a shop to get it working, but didn't bother before he sold it. That's all I know about it currently. Fill it, check for leaks. Find out why the blower fan doesn't work - Fuse maybe? Get that working first.
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Jul 28, 2018 23:30
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If you're very lucky, the blower fan is just toast and the AC system is fine. If you're somewhat lucky, the AC is empty but will hold pressure well enough for the summer if refilled. Does the compressor kick on if you try to turn on the AC?
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Jul 29, 2018 12:22
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Just out of interest (and so I know if I ever buy an old car with R12), what's the correct way to convert from R12 to R134a? Some people say it's just a matter of changing the nozzles, while some people say you have to change major components.
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Jul 29, 2018 17:45
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MrOnBicycle posted:Just out of interest (and so I know if I ever buy an old car with R12), what's the correct way to convert from R12 to R134a? Some people say it's just a matter of changing the nozzles, while some people say you have to change major components. Youd have to recapture the R12 still in the system if it isnt open. Minimum is you need to add lubricating oil since R12 uses mineral oil which doesn't mix/is not carried by R134. Better is to crack the system open, dump the old oil out of the accumulator and idealy the compressor, then seal it all back up with a new accumulator, fill it with an oil of the correct amount that works with R134 then figure out how much R134 you need to equal the amount of R12 you are supposed to run. There is a whole heap of lovely info and old wives tales and misinformation about this stuff out there. If I have an R12 system I just keep using R12, it's so much easier and you don't have to worry about higher pressure and lower cooling capacities. R12 is cheap on eBay.
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Jul 29, 2018 18:51
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Javid posted:If you're very lucky, the blower fan is just toast and the AC system is fine. If you're somewhat lucky, the AC is empty but will hold pressure well enough for the summer if refilled. Got the blower fan working, poorly but working. Also, I found that the compressor does not have a belt attached to it, so no it does not kick on when the switch is set to A/C.
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Jul 29, 2018 19:01
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R12 replacement on the cheap is R152 (PC Duster - diflouroethane) and Ester Pil lubricant.
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Jul 29, 2018 20:32
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Got the blower fan working, poorly but working. Also, I found that the compressor does not have a belt attached to it, so no it does not kick on when the switch is set to A/C. Does the clutch at least snap shut when you turn the A/C on? If so try and turn the compressor by hand, it should be hard to turn, but smooth. Assuming that's fine, throw a belt on and see if it works.
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Jul 29, 2018 20:45
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Enourmo posted:Does the clutch at least snap shut when you turn the A/C on? If so try and turn the compressor by hand, it should be hard to turn, but smooth. Assuming that's fine, throw a belt on and see if it works. Depending on the system, this won't happen if the system has insufficient refrigerant pressure.
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Jul 29, 2018 22:24
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It's easier to just grab the center portion of the compressor and try to turn it. If it won't turn, it's fukt. If it turns, it's probably okay. Since the belt is off (and I assume someone did this intentionally), there's a decent chance it's fukt, but it's worth trying.
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Jul 30, 2018 05:13
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My AC's condensation drain got clogged. It has a rubber valve in the bottom of the car, and from the outside the outlet is accessible only by removing the engine first. The only reasonable way was to unclog it from inside with pressurized air. The drain tube was held in place with three screws. I tried to do it myself but failed to get the top screw out. I had to pay 152€ for a mechanic to do it for me. It also included some oil leak diagnosis and weird engine noise (which is apparently caused by a tiny intake air leak). Engineers probably thought the placement to be good and well protected from dust. But eventually enough poo poo always accumulates and causes drains to clog. Audi could have made it at least a little bit easier to keep clean... anyways, it's nice that I can use the AC again, it was pain in the rear end to drive without it in this heat.
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Jul 30, 2018 11:03
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Ihmemies posted:My AC's condensation drain got clogged. It has a rubber valve in the bottom of the car, and from the outside the outlet is accessible only by removing the engine first. Why make things simple, when complicated will do?
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Jul 30, 2018 20:43
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Excellent OP - read through, but because of my mechanical stupidity, still understand less than I should. 2006 Durango SLT 4.7L v8 AC has not worked since I bought the truck. The only piece of info I can remember from the P.O. was that the compressor *might* be broken. The heater works fine in the Winter. The A.C. will blow, but just warm air. Maybe it's just blowing the air temp. outside if that makes sense. My experiences with AC repair have been horrible. We have a few reputable shops here in Texas, but they're all ridiculously expensive, even for the most basic of repairs. I was quoted $300 minimum for a schrader valve replacement on my mom's truck - without them even looking at the car - just $300 minimum guaranteed for the diagnostic and swapping out a simple valve. Experiences like that have scared me away from even trying to get my AC fixed. The other shop I went too also had comprably insane prices for labor/parts. Based on the little info I have on my current AC problem listed above - what should I look into first if I'm wanting this fixed? 100 degrees everyday here in the forecast, with no end in sight for the next 2 months. Aug/Sept. is the fkn worst in south Texas.
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Aug 1, 2018 19:55
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First off: Find out of the compressor is failed - Try rotating the center section of the compressor pulley by hand. Does it rotate freely? Next step: Buy a cheap can of refrigerant with leak check fill the system and check for leans. Verify the compressor tries to turn on when it has sufficient refrigerant. If the compressor is still having issues after checking for leaks, replace it. Rent a vacuum pump and bleed down the system after replacing the compressor (might want to replace the drier too at the same time) and then refill and try again.
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Aug 1, 2018 20:00
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Job1: rent manifold gauges, check pressures; they should be equal in both sides and at the r134a static pressure for whatever your ambient temp is. Can't do anything before you check that because:CommieGIR posted:Depending on the system, [the compressor won't engage] if the system has insufficient refrigerant pressure. (Thanks for the correction, I had a brain fart writing that post)
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Aug 1, 2018 20:02
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Enourmo posted:(Thanks for the correction, I had a brain fart writing that post) I got your back,  Either way, you need the system to at least be charged to verify compressor operation. But ensuring the compressor itself can rotate is a good first step before filling it if its low.
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Aug 1, 2018 20:10
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Nice thank you. I'll check those out and get back with some info.
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Aug 1, 2018 20:15
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Dennis McClaren posted:My experiences with AC repair have been horrible. We have a few reputable shops here in Texas, but they're all ridiculously expensive, even for the most basic of repairs. I was quoted $300 minimum for a schrader valve replacement on my mom's truck - without them even looking at the car - just $300 minimum guaranteed for the diagnostic and swapping out a simple valve. Experiences like that have scared me away from even trying to get my AC fixed. The other shop I went too also had comprably insane prices for labor/parts. To be fair, changing out the schrader valve usually requires them to evacuate and then recharge the system, and that's primarily what they are charging you for. Still high, though, but in a land where AC is a lifesaving device, they can pretty much charge what they want. Part of the reason I learned to do it myself. Other part is I just DIY, anyway. quote:Based on the little info I have on my current AC problem listed above - what should I look into first if I'm wanting this fixed? 100 degrees everyday here in the forecast, with no end in sight for the next 2 months. Aug/Sept. is the fkn worst in south Texas. I'm glad I'm back up in N.TX now. It's still hot, but the humidity has got to be murderous down there. I'd actually like to report a success, rather than a problem. I got AC working in my AE86 last night. Took a bit of part collecting because the PO apparently had an accident that took out the condenser and a lower pressure hard line that ran across the front of the car. Said PO removed the condenser and with it several unobtainium small bits - receiver mount bracket, and a couple of small hard lines related to the receiver, and the condenser mounting grommets. Took a bit to source the bracket and hard lines. Fortunately everything else was there and the compressor turned fine. As far as I can tell it was all fine before the accident. I removed all the lines and the evap, flushed all of it, new TXV, new o-rings, new condenser, new drier, and the appropriate amount of oil, then charged with R-152a. 50 degF vent temps when it was 87 outside. Also when it was 77 this morning, so I think that may be a set point. Hell, if it continues to blow 50 when it hits 100 next week, I'll consider it a win.
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Aug 2, 2018 23:42
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My (1992 ram) van has a slow leak. AC still works but has gone from "pretty decent cold" to "coolish, better than nothing but not cold" over the course of the last ~90 days (filled on 5/3). There's no UV dye in it, just straight r134a. Given that I don't have the money to tear it apart and replace whatever's leaking right now anyway, it seems like my best bet is to throw a couple cans of refrigerant with dye in there to keep it working through the end of summer, and then actually look for the leak and fix it up correctly over winter while I can live without it. Is there a better idea I'm missing?
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Aug 3, 2018 00:31
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Javid posted:Is there a better idea I'm missing? One can'll probably do it unless your system takes like 10 lbs. of the stuff. Only suggestion I might make is to get a UV light now and check for dye spots; there could have been dye in it before that leaked out. Even if you don't find any, or you do but it points to a previous repair, at least then you'll know anything you see next time is fresh.
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Aug 3, 2018 00:36
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Enourmo posted:Does the clutch at least snap shut when you turn the A/C on? If so try and turn the compressor by hand, it should be hard to turn, but smooth. Assuming that's fine, throw a belt on and see if it works. Had some time tonight to mess around with it. The pulley spins freely whether running or not. I started and turned the switch to a/c and tried turning again, which it did. Also, the clutch did not engage when the a/c was turned on.
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Aug 3, 2018 05:09
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Had some time tonight to mess around with it. The pulley spins freely whether running or not. I started and turned the switch to a/c and tried turning again, which it did. Also, the clutch did not engage when the a/c was turned on. See the later posts, a lot of systems won't engage the clutch unless there's refrigerant in the system.
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Aug 3, 2018 05:32
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Had some time tonight to mess around with it. The pulley spins freely whether running or not. I started and turned the switch to a/c and tried turning again, which it did. Also, the clutch did not engage when the a/c was turned on. By hand, turn the middle section that the compressor pulley is spinning around (engine off so you don't lose fingers). It should turn smoothly, though with some resistance as it tries to compress. If it feels rough (like metal on metal), or won't turn, it's probably done.
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Aug 3, 2018 15:10
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KakerMix posted:Youd have to recapture the R12 still in the system if it isnt open. Minimum is you need to add lubricating oil since R12 uses mineral oil which doesn't mix/is not carried by R134. Better is to crack the system open, dump the old oil out of the accumulator and idealy the compressor, then seal it all back up with a new accumulator, fill it with an oil of the correct amount that works with R134 then figure out how much R134 you need to equal the amount of R12 you are supposed to run. The reason I'm mainly asking is that there is a cheap Acura Legend (or Honda as it's in Europe) but that's down on the AC. It's impossible to get R12 in Europe as it's banned, and R134 is only available if certified. So the only option is have a shop remove the R12 and the either convert it myself or find a shop to do it. After spending way too much time researching it, it seems pretty hard (if not impossible) to find the original retrofit kit made by Honda. The jury is out whether or not new pipes are needed or not if the system is properly flushed from the old R12 + old oil. To be honest, since parts in general seem hard to come by for old Honda Legends I should be interested. But the car is cheap enough to be a fun thing to own for a while (and maybe part out when something breaks). I just hate dealing with AC systems here. AC checkups+recharges are $100 minimum here, and dealing with R12 seems a hassle in Europe. But 1st gen Legends are cool. 
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Aug 3, 2018 20:59
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Darchangel posted:To be fair, changing out the schrader valve usually requires them to evacuate and then recharge the system, and that's primarily what they are charging you for. Still high, though, but in a land where AC is a lifesaving device, they can pretty much charge what they want. Part of the reason I learned to do it myself. Changing a Schrader valve is a 2 minute job with the right tool that doesn’t require evac and fill. Mastercool (81490) R134A Valve Core Remover Installer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KITSMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0ImzBbC457A84
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Aug 3, 2018 22:29
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MrOnBicycle posted:The reason I'm mainly asking is that there is a cheap Acura Legend (or Honda as it's in Europe) but that's down on the AC. It's impossible to get R12 in Europe as it's banned, and R134 is only available if certified. So the only option is have a shop remove the R12 and the either convert it myself or find a shop to do it. After spending way too much time researching it, it seems pretty hard (if not impossible) to find the original retrofit kit made by Honda. The jury is out whether or not new pipes are needed or not if the system is properly flushed from the old R12 + old oil. Ah you're in Europe. So just get it anyway, get a shop to evacuate the system, get some esther oil and use computer duster.  Who cares if it leaks slowly, just dump more duster in it when you need to.
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Aug 3, 2018 22:29
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rdb posted:Changing a Schrader valve is a 2 minute job with the right tool that doesn’t require evac and fill. That's why I said "usually". *I* would expect a shop to have that tool, and charge accordingly, and would call them on it, but just like with a lot of other mechanics, part of their profits come from overcharging the unknowing.
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Aug 3, 2018 22:41
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rdb posted:Changing a Schrader valve is a 2 minute job with the right tool that doesn’t require evac and fill. oh nice I used a Milton tire Schrader tool to do mine but my system was empty at the time so it didn't matter. btw whoever said before that r12-r134a conversions are hard to research and full of anecdotal bullshit is dead-on, for the record. My 240 is still working okay from the work I did in May (knock on wood) with my $140 piecemeal conversion but the amount of sheer nonsense and bullshit i had to slog through to glean the at least semi-right way to do it took me probably 20 or more hours. There's so much wrong information and nonsense and general stupidity out there it's incredibly hard to parse sometimes. Also it's really hard to find well-written stuff about old Volvos because most people on e.g. turbobricks are as dumb as the bricks our cars are shaped like. Finding an even remotely coherent post related to a/c on an old Volvo is like finding a needle in a haystack. I already bitched about that itt so I'll stop now. Fortunately most manufacturers use mostly off-the-shelf AC systems so once you get an idea of what you're doing it isn't too complex. I am glad I converted it to r134a because if I decide it needs another shot in the fall I can easily do that and if someday I want to go back to r12 for some reason I left that option open too.
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Aug 4, 2018 02:20
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I've had really good luck using R152a (computer duster cans) in the R12 systems from RX-7s. Cheap, no conversion fittings are required and the pressure curves of R152a matches R12 much closer than R134a.
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Aug 4, 2018 04:52
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KakerMix posted:Ah you're in Europe. So just get it anyway, get a shop to evacuate the system, get some esther oil and use computer duster. I don't think we can get R134a computer dusters that can be used in AC systems anymore. Closest I can find is 1,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene (R-1234ze), but I don't fancy blowing myself or anyone else up really. Even if the risk might be overblown, it's an old car with an old system. Apparently Europe is forcing automakers to go from R134a to 2,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene (R-1234yf), and all but the Germans seem to be accepting it. I really dislike dealing with A/C systems.
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Aug 4, 2018 09:24
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MrOnBicycle posted:I don't think we can get R134a computer dusters that can be used in AC systems anymore. Closest I can find is 1,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene (R-1234ze), but I don't fancy blowing myself or anyone else up really. Even if the risk might be overblown, it's an old car with an old system. Apparently Europe is forcing automakers to go from R134a to 2,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene (R-1234yf), and all but the Germans seem to be accepting it. Sgt Fox posted:I've had really good luck using R152a (computer duster cans) in the R12 systems from RX-7s. Cheap, no conversion fittings are required and the pressure curves of R152a matches R12 much closer than R134a. No, you use computer duster R152a instead of R134. R134 is removed from the equation and you use computer duster instead. Your refrigerant doesn't matter as long as it can do what the physical system asks it to. R12, R134, R152, propane, etc. People get specific about it because of access and lubricating oils. If you are going to have to open the system then people like to use computer duster because it's everywhere and cheap, and as was mentioned performs close to R12 so is good to use for R12 conversions. If you do use duster then it matters leas if it's leaky because you can just pop in more as needed.
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Aug 4, 2018 17:22
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KakerMix posted:No, you use computer duster R152a instead of R134. R134 is removed from the equation and you use computer duster instead. Your refrigerant doesn't matter as long as it can do what the physical system asks it to. R12, R134, R152, propane, etc. People get specific about it because of access and lubricating oils. If you are going to have to open the system then people like to use computer duster because it's everywhere and cheap, and as was mentioned performs close to R12 so is good to use for R12 conversions. Yeah tried finding some when I saw that post, but it seems like it's been discontinued everywhere as well. I'd have to order from the US, which I'm not sure will get through customs. Or even is legal. I have to bring my DD to a AC shop soon anyway so I'll ask what they can offer in regards to R12 for classic cars.  Thank gently caress for having a white car when the AC stops working...
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Aug 4, 2018 18:08
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah tried finding some when I saw that post, but it seems like it's been discontinued everywhere as well. I'd have to order from the US, which I'm not sure will get through customs. Or even is legal. I have to bring my DD to a AC shop soon anyway so I'll ask what they can offer in regards to R12 for classic cars. Ah see I just took for granted that R152 duster was what you guys had over there, it's still all over the place here in the US. The thing though is that R134 is just as expensive as R12 that I can get on eBay and if I have a system that needs a recharge (being that I always am importing things from R12 generation Japan) more often than not the system is closed and sealed, just neglected. Pop in some R12 and the system comes back to life, the Prado has the best AC out of any car we've ever owned. It just needed some more refrigerant.
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Aug 4, 2018 19:16
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STR posted:By hand, turn the middle section that the compressor pulley is spinning around (engine off so you don't lose fingers). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDsYEYKLI6E Turned with slight resistance at the beginning, but smoothly after it got moving.
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Aug 4, 2018 20:30
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Ester oil is my preffered ex-R12/R152 conversion oil
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Aug 4, 2018 21:15
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For what it’s worth the farm supply stores around here sells standard cans of r134a (I have some here that are “National” brand) for 4.49+tax. I don’t think you can beat that price with computer duster though of course the refrigerant is only a small part of the total equation. Ester seems to be the oil that is compatible with most everything and I’m not sure what the benefits of PAG are or why it’s so amazing you wouldn’t just use Ester. PAG reacts badly with I don’t remember what in R12 systems but it doesn’t work in conversions (supposedly.) Volvo supplied Ester oil in its r134a conversion kits so Ester 100 is what I used. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Aug 4, 2018 |
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Aug 4, 2018 22:33
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