Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Slavvy posted:

I took it apart and ding ding it's the serial.



That burned up little track starts at the serial earth, pin 19, and finishes at...



...the little spider looking fella in the foreground. Googling the part number indicates it's the max232 like you said.

Does the burned track mean the whole board is junk? I can't see anything else visibly damaged but I have no experience with anything like this, I'm used to soldering wires and poo poo.

If it's just a matter of replacing that chip, I haven't got the skill or equipment to do it, I can barely see the legs let alone solder stuff. What kind of person does this sort of thing in exchange for goods or services?

I feel less discouraged now that I can see the problem, at least.

What have you got connected to pin 30, Opto IN (+)? Because looking at that trace, it looks like that's actually what caused the short. Bad board or a bit of moisture and if you've got a high potential between pin 30 and that serial chip trace, that'll be the result.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Also thanks babyeatingpsychopath for making this thread. I've always wondered what an EFI conversion would look like.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Slavvy posted:

Pin 30 doesn't go anywhere, the wire is a five inch stub that's heat shrinked and insulated on the end. No continuity between it and the burned trace either. The burned trace has continuity to connector pins 18, 20, 22 and 23. All of which are marked as various flavors of GND so I'm guessing that's good and normal?

Hmm, must just be some heat damage/discoloration then. Have you got access to a megger? Just weird for me to see a burned trace like that without some external failure cause like moisture or a bent pin on the connector or something, unless it's a bad board. I don't tend to see the board level stuff though, more the external stuff, so burned circuit boards are only something I deal with after other people have done the forensic analysis and I've read the report.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Slavvy posted:

Right, I've very carefully tested all of the above and these are my results:

Input - 12V with the bike on.

Output - ~5v with it powered up and referenced against GND

I have about 4800Ko between 2 and 3 so I'm assuming that's going 'the long way' through other parts of the board and is normal.

About 11Ko between input and gnd so again assuming that's pretty normal.

I have continuity from GND through to the burned trace, and from GND to the tab, which I'm guessing is normal as the tab is soldered to a large field that I assume a bunch of other stuff earths through.

I have continuity from output to pins 15 and 16 on the MAX3221, I don't know if this changes with the ecu powered up as I've got no way of checking without shorting the chip legs.

E: having had time for all of this to sink in and ponder it in a less frustrated state of mind, something has to be shorting 12v to the earth circuit, right? Like, there's no way it can come from 'outside' the ecu because shorting power to the serial earth is not a more viable earth path than the entire bike that the hypothetical shorted component is bolted to. And if the tab plate thingy and GND have continuity then surely every trace on the board that goes to that tab should be burned up as well? Just struggling to think of a scenario where the necessary current is present but also isolated to just that one trace.

E2: Unless the trace has always been burned from PO/builder shenanigans and it's just very recently broken fully and killed my comms, and the root cause has already been fixed/doesn't exist on the bike as it is now.

Yeah that second edit is my suspicion. That trace going pop, which is at ground/earth potential - logic 0 -, and no damage to anything else means that trace specifically has had 12v find its way to it, probably through a damaged or defective board. That damage may have been moisture exposure causing dendritic corrosion to start, which, once it's started will eventually find the low potential and cause a short. I may be wrong on that, but it's a likely and common enough fault. If you have a megger (Fluke 1587 is great if you can get one, crank types are fine though), I would find the nearest 12v source to that trace and megger between it (or probably just use pin 1) and pin 19 and see what sort of resistance you get. Should be megohms. If you're seeing 100s of kilohms or less, you're probably looking at a corroded path through the board to the trace.
I wouldn't waste money getting a megger just to test this though. It's loving hosed m8, as they say, and really all you're left with is replacing the trace with a wire. You probably won't have to worry about further problems if it's a board fault because the trace is already toast and the damage is already done there. No more ground to short to, though I guess you could scrape out the trace remains so there's no high resistance path either.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply