|
I thought I found a more detailed site here: http://www.everythingbenz.com/z/epc-mercedes-parts-info-diagrams but doesn't list it as a separate part either.
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2018 19:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 5, 2024 09:52 |
|
|
kimbo305 posted:The rubber cover to the trunk lid actuator button is split open, and I wanna see if I can replace it. Aren't you the same dude that sourced some obscure European console latch?
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2018 19:47
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:Aren't you the same dude that sourced some obscure European console latch? I bought a wee little strut for the 348's glove box? But not a latch. I did use some incredibly shady German site for the NLA 3rd brake light on the Saab. https://schweden.parts/p/29090/zusatzbremsleuchte-3.bremsleuchte-fuer-saab-original-ersatzteil-oe-nr.-13299395.html?lang=en
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2018 05:47
|
|
|
You're right, that was the other guy with a Snoop av. I get you two mixed up all the time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2018 13:18
|
|
|
I do too, and I think I've even mailed car parts to other-snoop.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2018 10:00
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:You're right, that was the other guy with a Snoop av. I get you two mixed up all the time. STR posted:I do too, and I think I've even mailed car parts to other-snoop. quote:He is I, and I am him
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2018 21:10
|
|
|
Parked it Sunday. This evening, 3 days later: Right after starting it up and putting it to the lowest suspension height (which immediately equaled the heights at all 4 corners):  The ground here isn't level, and this is the highest corner, so I was trying to convince myself that it was drooping faster because of that. There's a creaky ticking somewhere under the car. In person, it's scratchier than aluminum engine block ticking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP2FK8URyjc I've reparked it so that it's on slightly leveler ground to see if that changes its leakdown rate.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2018 02:14
|
|
|
Got the trunk open button assembly already. And my got is it an exercise in over-engineering. The buttons are on a plate that sits on two swivel arms, which route the wiring out to the rest of the assembly. Here, I've already taken the swivel arm tabs out of their tracks on the plate, but am demonstrating the swivel action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyzgktQUBXQ 1. Nothing actuates this swiveling 2. There's a bar spring that retains the swivel arms and keeps them from moving 3. Having the plate swivel out would only break the seal against its O-ring (which isn't a huge issue given that it's upside down under the trunk lid 4. You couldn't really press the buttons if they were dangling from the arms anyway I'd love to understand the rationale here. Shot of the retaining bar and a swivel arm:  The button plate is sealed; I can't figure out how to swap the rubber cover part. The next hope would be to swap tumblers and replace the whole assembly. Anyone have an FSM source? Couldn't figure out visually how the tumbler is released:  I'm pretty sure there's a significant leak for the wiper fluid reservoir, which I hope to god is replaceable without moving any other parts in the engine bay. Put in 1.5 gals to top it off and will see how fast that drains. Oh, and I need to replace the hood struts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2018 02:25
|
|
|
Finally, there's this guy on BaT who sells Mercedes, almost exclusively V12s. He's got an S65 auction up now, with only 100k fewer miles than mine: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2006-mercedes-benz-s65-amg-8/ I wonder if I could polish up the wood trim to make it look that smooth. Looking over the pics, I think I've figured out how the yellow /!\ came on. When a friend got in the back seat, I went to unlock the doors, and in reaching for that button, must have hit the ESP: https://s13252.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/1527527117f66e7dff9f98764daIMG_0126-1.jpg e: notice the upright 3-pointed star badge on the hood. The PO replaced that with a flat badge to reflect the more sporting nature of the car. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jun 7, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2018 02:53
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:I'm pretty sure there's a significant leak for the wiper fluid reservoir, which I hope to god is replaceable without moving any other parts in the engine bay. It's pretty much empty now  .The leak is somewhere above one of the underbody trays on the driver side, maybe where it plumbs into the left headlight sprayer? 
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2018 04:37
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:It's pretty much empty now You'd better sell it to me for a loss, then. Is there any tangible problem with the shocks leaking down, other than looking silly stanced when parked?
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2018 18:59
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Seminal Flu posted:You'd better sell it to me for a loss, then. Eventually, I guess it'd be a performance issue? That that corner is gonna cause problems for the pump to keep up with the damping level desired? I'm gonna embrace the maintenance carnage and bring it to an indy Merc shop. They're fine with me bringing my own parts, so I'll get diagnosis on the wiper fluid leak and the shocks, and then  the parts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2018 22:41
|
|
|
Thinking of temporarily patching up the torn button boot with either rubber cement or Sugru. Would rubber cement interact badly with either rubber (ironic) or paint?
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 13:20
|
|
|
I'd use RTV over rubber cement.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 13:27
|
|
|
It seems like you got a good enough deal buying the car that a few k in maintenance upfront will still be pretty reasonable and hopefully you’ll be good to go for a while! Although, I can’t imagine the tires and brakes will last long...
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 13:30
|
|
|
I've done a couple of passes where I put a dozen car lengths on a slow moving car, slow down, cruise for several seconds, and say out loud, "holy poo poo." With the turbos and auto, it doesn't have instantaneous thrust, but there's so much torque that you're up to whatever acceleration you want in a second. The suspension continues to wow me. It gives a huge car like this a lot of poise over bumpy stuff and still some competency hustling on smooth roads. Very cat-like.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 13:41
|
|
|
Don't use rubber cement for anything other than scrapbooking or huffin', ya dope.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 13:42
|
|
|
Just got off the phone with Arnott. Took the rep awhile to confirm which of two part numbers was for my model. They have overlapping VIN ranges and both work on paper. Rep told me which one to use. SK-2461, for posterity. Any number of eBay sellers have programs to ship back the core on your own time for a refund, so will be $550 once I ship the old one back. muckswirler posted:Don't use rubber cement for anything other than scrapbooking or huffin', ya dope. What is bad about it? Solvents? Not strong enough? I'm honestly not sure why it's used for paper.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 15:38
|
|
|
At least you got the cheap parts out of the way.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 20:49
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
With many other german cars atleast the washer fluid pump is just stuck into the bottom of the reservoir with a seal, a ridiculously bad design that will work just fine while it's in warranty but will 100% fail eventually. On my BMW the seal was $3 but getting in there to replace it involved removing the fender liner so I roughed up the surfaces and added a bunch of sika-flex to keep it fixed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 22:01
|
|
|
What's the other solution for mounting the pump? Every Japanese car I've worked on had a similar arrangement where the pump is inserted into the washer bottle near the bottom through a rubber grommet that seals it. A tube down with a high mount pump seems like it could be annoying with a long time to prime.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2018 22:11
|
|
|
You mount it on an armature that drops into the tank from the top or somewhere you can reach it with the tank loose. And yeah with rubber cement the solvents aren't going to be nice to the existing rubber and it's intended to be easily removable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2018 08:49
|
|
|
Bajaha posted:What's the other solution for mounting the pump? Every Japanese car I've worked on had a similar arrangement where the pump is inserted into the washer bottle near the bottom through a rubber grommet that seals it. My GM is the same way.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2018 16:42
|
|
|
The wiper fluid tank is passenger front side of the engine bay, so if the pump is also leaking, the underbody trays would have to be routing that leak over a lot. Replaced the hood struts. One OEM, one Üro brand. Total just $40 shipped. Let's see which one fails first.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2018 18:00
|
|
|
100mi round trip to try out track riding: The Merc has a really nice presence to it. I didn't get a single compliment from the two club cyclists I gave a ride to <  >On the highway, this is just an effortless cruiser. That's what the power and torque are for. Once someone gets out of the passing lane, give it moderate gas and you're doing 100 in a few seconds. It's not about wringing the motor out -- it's the ability to use just 3k and move fast. When I used to have the Viper, there was a definitely a "swingin big dick" effect to cruising around in it. An R8 comes up? It's ok, I'm in the Viper. An LS-swapped FD rolling by? Whatever, I'm in the Viper. The S65 gives the same superiority complex for comparable cars, like a new 750i and an A8 I saw today. I know it's kind of toxic to have a car make you feel that way, but the rush you get from being pressed into the plush leather seat might as well be the Venom symbiote.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2018 02:20
|
|
|
Saturday afternoon to about Tuesday afternoon:  Gonna drive the huge-rear end Arnott strut to the shop tomorrow morning. I wonder if more active use put this corner over the edge, cuz it's sagging more/faster than the last extended sitting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2018 16:41
|
|
|
Hopefully it is just the strut. You are also into accumulator land, tandem pump land, etc. if not. But yeah, per your previous comments most cars don't come close.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2018 19:00
|
|
|
The Saab has a better throttle/shifting experience, and the handling is definitely less vague. The suspension (which I know is shot) is just trash in comparison. And I like the 9-5 interior more.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2018 19:23
|
|
|
Shop finished the replacement late Thur, including a couple misc hoses and topping off fluid lost in the procedure. It has been sitting with no sag so far, which is pretty encouraging to me. They noted that the old strut was pretty hosed up, so I'm guessing the other ones aren't too far behind. The strut is loving massive, like 30lbs:  That's a size 12 slipper for comparison. Details of the torn boot and top:   I'm not sure if that cap having a 1cm gap is unusual, but there's some tears on the underside that are def not normal. $300 to do the replace and to pull out the busted and leaking left headlight sprayer. On me to order a new one and get that replaced at some point, but the hose is blocked off and not leaking for now. The ride felt a little better, but haven't gone over the really rough stuff. The S65 behaves like some of the other high-powered RWD cars I've had when accelrating through a really bumpy turn -- the rear end wallows a bit and steps out as the tires don't rebound fast enough. You really notice the high roll center as the rear tires articulate separately. Reminds me -- I need to post the replaced timing chain parts from the 9-5. Have been driving it around this weekend and enjoying it. The difference in power is quite noticeable, coming back from the S -- you have to step almost all the way into the pedal to get the kind of mid-range pickup that the S65 has. But what do you expect for having half the power and torque?
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2018 20:38
|
|
|
When first parked, the rear ride height is just over 2 fingers from top of tire to bottom of fender. Now it's about 1.5, and seems to be the only corner still sagging. I bit the bullet and ordered a laptop with MB Star to have more diagnostic info.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2018 17:35
|
|
|
Did they rodeo it to circulate the fluid, calibrate, and flush it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 01:02
|
|
|
Fievel Goes Bi posted:Did they rodeo it to circulate the fluid, calibrate, and flush it? Called the shop, and Nick (who's Greek), said "yes, I calibrate. I make the car dance." Next up is valve body? He said I should keep an eye on hydraulic fluid leaks at that corner. Is there a diagnostic I can run once I get Star that would confirm a leak?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 15:51
|
|
|
Highly doubt it. Just rebuild the valve with fluorosilicone o-rings and call it a day.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 16:36
|
|
|
After a rodeo if there are no leaks...yikes. Fluid is going somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 18:24
|
|
|
muckswirler posted:Highly doubt it. Just rebuild the valve with fluorosilicone o-rings and call it a day. Is there a preferred vendor like Arnott with the struts?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 18:39
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:After a rodeo if there are no leaks...yikes. Fluid is going somewhere. Can you elaborate? What does the rodeo do, just test full range and function of the ABC system? Does a normal ABC system leak during the rodeo? Or are you talking about only for a system already exhibiting a problem?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 18:40
|
|
|
If there are no leaks maybe that corner accumulator isn’t holding pressure anymore or valve problems like others have said. Also worth taking a look at the ride height level sensors and the rods that connect them to the car they are pretty junky and break a lot. Can’t really diag to much until you get your SDS though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 19:00
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Can you elaborate? What does the rodeo do, just test full range and function of the ABC system? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngsRLrBokIA
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 19:42
|
|
|
Fievel Goes Bi posted:Also worth taking a look at the ride height level sensors and the rods that connect them to the car they are pretty junky and break a lot. But would that explain a droop that happens over days while the car is off? Right what confuses me is "After a rodeo if there are no leaks" -- that video doesn't suggest the system is open and will bleed out fluid or anything.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 19:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 5, 2024 09:52 |
|
|
Yeah, accumulators are basically the size of a softball and fairly easy to replace. There is a membrane inside of it with half of it filled with nitrogen. Membrane leaks...well that's where the fluid is going. The rodeo test is very stressful on the car. I view it as a good thing, some do not. I'd rather have something fail in my driveway versus 200 miles away. Have any clunks during startup when cold? That is a sign of cavitation and a hose leak.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2018 19:59
|
|