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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

I've never been known for making good choices, so when I saw a craigslist post about a 2009 BMW 535Xi Touring with 155k miles for $6000, I had to jump on it. Especially seeing pictures showing that it was filthy and gently tapped a deer with the hood. What could go wrong?

Well, I contacted the owner and he said that the AC just went out, too. GREAT! EVEN BETTER! So I met up with him and immediately saw it even had some significant hail damage. I'm in. He also had the turbos replaced (by the dealer!!!??? at a very significant bill, he said $7k. I don't believe it, but I don't know how bad dealers have gotten).

I did some negotiating and gave him $4000 cash and he gave me the title and two keys.

The thing drives loving great. No stumbles, no hesitation, no lag... and for a big car, it moves. Before I took it home, I had dad drive it and he said it felt a lot like his E92 M3. Not as fast, but similar. I concur.

So. I got it home and got to work. The pictures I took didn't really show the level of profound filth in the interior, but I honestly don't know how people live in such literal dirt. It's not hard to dust and vacuum a car once a year or so.

It's a tough one to get pictures of, but here's one of the interior... it's so much worse than it looks, though:



And one terrible picture from the ad:



So on the list is to get it clean first, then start checking stuff mechanically. I plugged the low-side AC gauge in and gave it a half can of refrigerant and the compressor came back on, but I can't get the high side connected since there's a bulkhead blocking my connector. I'll have to pull that all off to get a full idea of where the AC is at.

It's also going to need all fluids changed, I'm assuming everything other than the engine oil and coolant is original (coolant I assume changed when they did the water pump and hoses).

So yeah, a meatpimp car thread for the first time in way too long. Enjoy.

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Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
ground floor

Can't wait to see the night and day difference between those pics and your post-detail shots

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
I remember that MR2 you flipped a while back and the difference was loving staggering once you called it "done". Can't wait to see this one get transformed.

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
Wow that is an impressive find, eagerly awaiting the detailed shots.

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen
In :f5:

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Nice find, hopefully it works out for you.

We really wanted a 3 series wagon but I didn't want to deal with a BMW out of warranty. For that price I woulda jumped on a 5 series all day long tho.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

That interior... definitely needs some love. Any saving the leather on that seat?

drat, I thought I was a pig...

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug
Sweet, beige leather interior on navy blue is far from the worst combo on big BMWs.

Are those Thule Aerobars and were they included?

Beverly Cleavage
Jun 22, 2004

I am a pretty pretty princess, watch me do my pretty princess dance....
That interior though. Wow. It may not photo well, but it's obvious how dirty it is. Can't wait to see it cleaned up.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Beverly Cleavage posted:

That interior though. Wow. It may not photo well, but it's obvious how dirty it is. Can't wait to see it cleaned up.

The interior is terrible... but then there's the motor...



bolind posted:

Are those Thule Aerobars and were they included?

Yeah, they were held on with strap feet, also Thule, I guess they're good? (Edit: I just looked them up, retails for $400 for the bars and feet... not bad. Maybe I'll get $200 out of them and be into the car for $3800.)

Started it this morning and had a good bit of smoke for the first couple minutes, PCV system check is on the list of things to do now.

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 12:56 on Jun 12, 2018

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug

Seminal Flu posted:

Yeah, they were held on with strap feet, also Thule, I guess they're good? (Edit: I just looked them up, retails for $400 for the bars and feet... not bad. Maybe I'll get $200 out of them and be into the car for $3800.)

They're pretty good but a bit expensive... nice if you buy into the system with the t-slots and all that, for bike racks etc.

Don't forget that they're modular so the bars can be used with different feet etc.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Remember to clean the sunroof drains, mine would fill the trunk with water whenever it rained. They got a sunroof cassette redesign in 07 that mine didn't have and the tiny lip would overflow. Yours probably will be better, but doesn't hurt to clean them.
Luckily, they put really expensive modules in the spare tire well, so that when it rains, they short out! (also relocate those to the side panels, you just take them out of the styrofoam and tuck them wherever the wires came from).

I have kept my 530xi e61 running for 5 years, so I know a little about these things. No turbos though.

Lightbulb Out
Apr 28, 2006

slack jawed yokel
My dad had a 530xi and it needed a lot of love and attention but was a really nice car.

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!
Awesome. Can't wait for updates. You still have the Escalade?

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

You said in the general chat thread that it had some hail dents, are you going to try PDR or just have a shop do it?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

blindjoe posted:

Remember to clean the sunroof drains, mine would fill the trunk with water whenever it rained.

That's high on my list, especially since this is going to be an outside car. Good news is that it has been an outside car and the back area is dead dry.


Hughmoris posted:

You still have the Escalade?

Yup, hopefully it's an automotive cockroach.


LloydDobler posted:

You said in the general chat thread that it had some hail dents, are you going to try PDR or just have a shop do it?

Yup, going to be glue-tabbing them, at least.


New news: The codes it's throwing are P0597 and P0598. Pointing at the thermostat signal. My hope is that it's something fucky with the connector, because a) there's no reference to those codes being thrown on an N54 motor and b) it looks like the 535Xi is some unbelievable monster in packaging of the thermostat/water pump and I'll end up hating life if I get in there to replace it. Apparently it's an entirely different beast than the 535i because of the front drive stuff taking all the room. :suicide:

Update: Unplugged the thermostat and cleared the codes. Started up and drove a mile with no light, but as soon as I got on the main road, light and P0597 came back. Looks like it's the thermostat. Kill me. :bravo:

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Jun 13, 2018

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
You're a gambling man, and you just lost.

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug
IMHO you need to get yourself Carly for BMW and a dongle and get some more BMW-specific info out of that car.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:

That's high on my list, especially since this is going to be an outside car. Good news is that it has been an outside car and the back area is dead dry.


Yup, hopefully it's an automotive cockroach.


Yup, going to be glue-tabbing them, at least.


New news: The codes it's throwing are P0597 and P0598. Pointing at the thermostat signal. My hope is that it's something fucky with the connector, because a) there's no reference to those codes being thrown on an N54 motor and b) it looks like the 535Xi is some unbelievable monster in packaging of the thermostat/water pump and I'll end up hating life if I get in there to replace it. Apparently it's an entirely different beast than the 535i because of the front drive stuff taking all the room. :suicide:

Update: Unplugged the thermostat and cleared the codes. Started up and drove a mile with no light, but as soon as I got on the main road, light and P0597 came back. Looks like it's the thermostat. Kill me. :bravo:

Ha yep, mine shut down on the highway due to overheating. So I replaced the water pump and thermostat. And got a too cold code.
So I paid someone to change the thermostat because you have to take the waterpump out first to get at it.
The subframe for the 4wd gets in the way of doing it from the back like the youtubes show.

Mine was an ebay thermostat/waterpump combo, so I didn't have a warranty, and wanted to get one so I didn't have to do it again.

The other one that wasn't much fun was the HVAC fan, but it was just 20 hours of work carefully taking the interior apart. I was able to clean everything while it was apart, so you may want to preemptivly change that as mine needed to be done last year, you probably have a year or two before your brushes wear out too. Fan is like $90, so parts are cheap, unless you break something in the interior, then its so much money.

Though after changing the thermostat you may not want to do much.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Good luck. I like BMWs and the m5x or s5x series of engines, but I'm not brave enough to tackle a N series. Thermostat, water pump or nearly anything is an easy job on a m5x

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Nidhg00670000 posted:

You're a gambling man, and you just lost.

Possibly, but it's such a good running car otherwise, I'm not selling it out. We'll see what the quotes for thermostat replacement come back as and go from there. I'm in to it at a low enough price that I've got options.

This is the first car repair I'm looking at farming out in 20+ years. I got close with my wife's old RAV4 with the V6 that was squeezed in so tight that the failing water pump looked like a similar nightmare to replace. I sold that one instead.


blindjoe posted:

Ha yep, mine shut down on the highway due to overheating. So I replaced the water pump and thermostat. And got a too cold code.
So I paid someone to change the thermostat because you have to take the waterpump out first to get at it.
The subframe for the 4wd gets in the way of doing it from the back like the youtubes show.

The waterpump was supposedly replaced, so hopefully it's just the thermostat. How much did the labor cost you for the job?

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I just found this post on bimmer
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2150414-E61-water-pump-and-thermostat-DIY&highlight=thermostat

quote:

I just changed the water pump and thermostat on my 530Xi Touring (120K miles). There is a nice video from Bavauto on this DIY. However, it seems that the Touring (at least the 2007 model that I have) is a bit different. below are few items to take note.

In order to get access to the all the hose clamps, you don't need to take off the stabilizer bar (it will be obvious once you look under the car). However, you do need to take off the protective aluminium plate (six 17 mm hex bolts).

All of the hose clamps are accessible from the bottom, except one that can be reached from the top using a screwdriver...hope you don't have big fat hands!! All hoses that have hose clamps on them use 6 mm hex or flat-head screw driver.

The order which i took things apart was...
1. Remove the two quick disconnect hoses to front and top of thermostat and drain coolant.
2. Remove the two bolts connecting the thermostat to the water pump (Two 10 mm hex bolts). This will allow you to move the thermostat up and away to get access to top bolt on the water pump.
3. Three Torx bolts (E-12 i believe). Remove the top bolt on the water pump using a universal and extension. The two lower bolts are easy once you move the wire and wire holder out of the way.
4. loosening the hose clamps will really test your patients. There are Three in total. Two are used to connect the U-hose (I replaced this as well; #1 below) connecting the water pump to thermostat, which one is accessible from the bottom using a long screwdriver going by the steering rack, the other can be accessed from the front-end just above the engine chassis (i could use a 6 mm hex with universal and extension). The third clamp is to connect the hose from the water pump to the engine (#13 below), which is accessible from the bottom by the steering rack. I just wished I knew ahead of time to buy and replace this hose as well since I had it opened up. The hose was very soft to touch... i hope it doesn't leak soon.
5. To take all the thermostat and water pump out, I had to remove the mounting bolt on the steering line and just move it out of the way.

In putting it together, remember to make sure you have all your lines on correctly, and tight. Don't forget to transfer your old wire holder from the old pump to the new pump. Tighten the water pump before you tighten the thermostat on the pump, otherwise you won't be able to get to top bolt on the water pump.

There isn't much room to get access to the hose clamps, and there isn't much room to maneuver wrenches or parts in place....so be patient and you'll get there. I was stumped for a bit trying to figure out what hose goes where and how to get access to the clamps. I think it took me 3 hours to take it apart and probably another 3 hours to put it all back together. Now that I know how it all goes together, I think i can do it in half the time now.

The new water pump and T-stat did fix my whirling fan issue on cold start, which seems to be the fist signs of failing water pump.

I wish i had taken pics for you...but at least hope the write up helps some of you.
Maybe check and see if that bavauto video is still there?
https://www.bavauto.com/tech-info/
I haven't ever been able to pull tech or vid from their site (such a pain to search), but searching BMW forums and places that have sometimes given me a direct link to a particular bavauto page as always worked well. Otherwise pelican tech usually has some sort of write up with photos
And of course start browsing realoem.com for parts and very rudimentary diagrams

It's worth looking this up because in my quick research about e60/61, expect $1000-2000 if you farm it out. This was the era where BMW ownership was ridiculous "german engineering", and the cars being ugly anyway :v:

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jun 13, 2018

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen

Fo3 posted:

I just found this post on bimmer
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2150414-E61-water-pump-and-thermostat-DIY&highlight=thermostat

Maybe check and see if that bavauto video is still there?
https://www.bavauto.com/tech-info/
I haven't ever been able to pull tech or vid from their site (such a pain to search), but searching BMW forums and places that have sometimes given me a direct link to a particular bavauto page as always worked well. Otherwise pelican tech usually has some sort of write up with photos
And of course start browsing realoem.com for parts and very rudimentary diagrams

It's worth looking this up because in my quick research about e60/61, expect $1000-2000 if you farm it out. This was the era where BMW ownership was ridiculous "german engineering", and the cars being ugly anyway :v:

https://blog.bavauto.com/14581/bmw-how-to-video-electric-water-pump-replacement-diy-n51-n52-n54-n55-6-cylinder/

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Fo3 posted:

I just found this post on bimmer
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2150414-E61-water-pump-and-thermostat-DIY&highlight=thermostat

Maybe check and see if that bavauto video is still there?
https://www.bavauto.com/tech-info/
I haven't ever been able to pull tech or vid from their site (such a pain to search), but searching BMW forums and places that have sometimes given me a direct link to a particular bavauto page as always worked well. Otherwise pelican tech usually has some sort of write up with photos
And of course start browsing realoem.com for parts and very rudimentary diagrams

It's worth looking this up because in my quick research about e60/61, expect $1000-2000 if you farm it out. This was the era where BMW ownership was ridiculous "german engineering", and the cars being ugly anyway :v:

Thanks, that doesn't look that bad. I was reading this thread: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=856598 that says it's nightmare fuel. Most threads and comments are putting it at a 2-4 hour job for a pro, I'd gladly pay that. We'll see what the local shops come back with.



If only it were that easy. The RWD N54 cars have a lot more access. The x-drive fuckers are packed so tight as to be unreasonable.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

The PO probably got quotes to fix it already and just sold it off to you instead of paying the ridiculous costs of having a BMW fixed :v:

Good luck man, hopefully it won't rape your wallet too bad.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

New post because enough of that sad bastard poo poo. You're here to see clean things.

My garage is an absolute mess. And BMW's paint has ridiculous levels of orange peel. My dad's E90 M3 is the same way. :barf:



And the interior is coming along, too. I need some leather touch-up for the edge of the armrest, but at least it's not covered in a layer of grunge.



It's getting better...

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
What did you use on the paint with the front door because seriously most tips I've seen suggested 1500grit sanding, which is something I wouldn't want to do on a newer car even if it had a bad orange peel effect.
I did the 1000, 1500, 2000 grit sanding on my 2005 falcon ute because I was respraying it myself anyway, but I wouldn't do it on a car I wasn't already respraying.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Jun 13, 2018

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Fo3 posted:

What did you use on the paint with the front door because seriously most tips I've seen suggested 1500grit sanding, which is something I wouldn't want to do on a newer car even if it had a bad orange peel effect.
I did the 1000, 1500, 2000 grit sanding on my 2005 falcon ute because I was respraying it myself anyway, but I wouldn't do it on a car I wasn't already respraying.

I've found that Meguiars Ultimate Compound is amazingly versatile. It's gentle enough to use as a basic scrub with a soft pad and lower RPM, but I used it with a hard pad and high RPM to get some cutting and polish action. The other thing about UC is that as it breaks down, the grit value goes up, so you can start hard and finish soft in the same application.

After that I used a coat of Chemical Guys Black Light and that really brought out the depth.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Yeah that's pretty good stuff. I used that myself to get rid of any sanding marks I left on my ute.

doogle
May 24, 2003

I have a replacement keyfob shell if the car doesn't have comfort access that you can have.

edit:


You would have to cut your old key to get to the internals, but this new one snaps together. I was going to replace the shell of my 135i key but ended up selling it before I got a chance to do it.

doogle fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jun 13, 2018

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

doogle posted:

I have a replacement keyfob shell if the car doesn't have comfort access that you can have.

edit:


You would have to cut your old key to get to the internals, but this new one snaps together. I was going to replace the shell of my 135i key but ended up selling it before I got a chance to do it.

Man, that would have been perfect, since the PO's dog chewed one of my fobs... too bad I've got comfort access. :( Thanks, though!

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Thermostat or not, I think you got a bit of a bargain there. You going to turn the wick up on it at all?

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:


The waterpump was supposedly replaced, so hopefully it's just the thermostat. How much did the labor cost you for the job?

I think it was in the range of $400 cdn. But thats at an indy instead of the dealer.
At that point I was just happy that it was driving again and I didn't have to get in there.


That bavauto was the one I tried to follow and it isn't the same on the 4wd cars.

e: now that I think about it, it wasn't actually that bad, just took a long time. And when its the family car your wife uses to get to work, I couldn't take it apart for another weekend.
When I did the HVAC fan, it had been replaced already, so that took 2 weeks of evenings to get finished.

Ooo another thing that isn't a lot of fun is front wheel bearings. The 2wd version its a nice bolt on part. 4wd gets to remove a big snapring and press the bearings out. Which means you have to get the whole strut out. Ended up with 10 stitches in the thumb doing that when I slipped on a bolt.

blindjoe fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jun 13, 2018

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

InitialDave posted:

Thermostat or not, I think you got a bit of a bargain there. You going to turn the wick up on it at all?

Oh man... I hadn't looked at tuning options until just now. $400 gets 80lb-ft at the wheels and more than 140lb-ft in spots under the curve. :swoon: The ideal thing to do to a 150k mile motor!


blindjoe posted:

I think it was in the range of $400 cdn. But thats at an indy instead of the dealer.
At that point I was just happy that it was driving again and I didn't have to get in there.


That bavauto was the one I tried to follow and it isn't the same on the 4wd cars.

e: now that I think about it, it wasn't actually that bad, just took a long time. And when its the family car your wife uses to get to work, I couldn't take it apart for another weekend.
When I did the HVAC fan, it had been replaced already, so that took 2 weeks of evenings to get finished.

Ooo another thing that isn't a lot of fun is front wheel bearings. The 2wd version its a nice bolt on part. 4wd gets to remove a big snapring and press the bearings out. Which means you have to get the whole strut out. Ended up with 10 stitches in the thumb doing that when I slipped on a bolt.

Definitely sounds like you've been in, on and around these things. I haven't received any replies from my quote requests on the stat, what is there to look for with the HVAC fan?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
The N54 will take 700hp/ftlb on a stock block. It's all the stuff bolted to it you need to worry about.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
Yeah, bumping the power on the N54 is really easy. The N55 isn't bad, but the newer B58 basically requires a different exhaust to get more out of it.

The thing I'll say though, is check what brakes you have. My dad's 335 has stock brakes, and personally I hate them compared to the M Sport brakes on my 335. Part of it's familiarity, but going faster is going to need better stopping. Not sure if they put different brakes on the 5s compared to the 3s.

https://www.bmwvin.com/ should let you see what options it shipped with.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:

Oh man... I hadn't looked at tuning options until just now. $400 gets 80lb-ft at the wheels and more than 140lb-ft in spots under the curve. :swoon: The ideal thing to do to a 150k mile motor!


Definitely sounds like you've been in, on and around these things. I haven't received any replies from my quote requests on the stat, what is there to look for with the HVAC fan?

It manifests as rattling/grinding with the fan on, and changes when you turn (as the cages move around in the old bearings). This is the guide I printed out:

https://5series.net/forums/diy-do-yourself-14/e60%5Ce61-aircon-blower-motor-replacement-120792/

The nice thing about these cars is usually some nerd has documented what you need to do already. This could be the case for many cars, but since mine was always broken I appreciated the bmw nerds.

After my wife got fed up with it breaking and bought a new car, the e61 stayed in the family as it is now a vacation car in Hawaii. So I still get to fix it when it breaks. The last time I drove it, the glass hatch wouldn't stop opening as soon as power came on. I had the whole family in the car as I tore the hatch apart to get the solenoid unplugged so we could go the store to get breakfast on the first day of the vacation.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Alarbus posted:

Yeah, bumping the power on the N54 is really easy. The N55 isn't bad, but the newer B58 basically requires a different exhaust to get more out of it.

The thing I'll say though, is check what brakes you have. My dad's 335 has stock brakes, and personally I hate them compared to the M Sport brakes on my 335. Part of it's familiarity, but going faster is going to need better stopping. Not sure if they put different brakes on the 5s compared to the 3s.

https://www.bmwvin.com/ should let you see what options it shipped with.

Brakes seem fine, but unremarkable. I looked up the options before I got it, nothing spectacular... no nav, just Premium, Cold Weather and Comfort Access packages.



Thanks for the link. I'll be doing some digging there. I've been watching the AC and I don't think there's anything wrong with the AC system, but something's fucky with the blend doors. I get a mix of hot and cold out of the center vents, so something's stuck somewhere.

On that note -- my OBDII reader doesn't work with Deep OBD, so I need to get a new one. Once I get that working, it should let me troubleshoot with the INPA stuff.

Edit -- :siren: AC is fine. Someone hosed around with the vent settings and had the driver's side all the way hot in the settings, that's why I was feeling the hot/cold mix. I reset it to zero-offset and it's blowing nice and cold. :coal:

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Jun 14, 2018

iwentdoodie
Apr 29, 2005

🤗YOU'RE WELCOME🤗
Probably has a passenger like my wife.

That woman would make an Eskimo cringe in the goddamn car. I have to set my side at like 75 just to blend enough that extremities aren't going numb.

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everdave
Nov 14, 2005

blindjoe posted:


After my wife got fed up with it breaking and bought a new car, the e61 stayed in the family as it is now a vacation car in Hawaii. So I still get to fix it when it breaks. The last time I drove it, the glass hatch wouldn't stop opening as soon as power came on. I had the whole family in the car as I tore the hatch apart to get the solenoid unplugged so we could go the store to get breakfast on the first day of the vacation.

You say vacation car and Hawaii? This sounds nice. Once stayed at my ex wife's family friend in Florida where they had a Jeep and a Jag that just stayed at their beach house. I wish that was me but that is my own fault.

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