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Should I coat my new car? I love the color it’s a metallic.
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Jun 23, 2018 21:51
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everdave posted:Should I coat my new car? I love the color it’s a metallic. I just clayed/polished/ceramic'd my wife's Juke. It's a pearl white metallic. She is not a car person and is not particularly into cars. But she noticed the difference and she noticed that the metal flake was showing in the son and neither of us have every really noticed it before. So, yes. On the BMW, it's a dark metallic and it's a half-shade darker than the uncoated part (I can see this directly, because I missed a spot near the roof rail.  )So yes, you should do it.
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Jun 23, 2018 21:59
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EVERYWHERE 
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I was changing the oil on the Juke today. I hadn't checked the air filter in a while and I found out I'm the PO.  
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Jun 24, 2018 16:08
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Looks fine, I'd still run it.  As it fills with stuff it filters better than new. Pretty much no modern intake will have a restriction due to the filter getting clogged slightly. Unless mice take up shop in there, I'll probably never replace mine. 
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Jun 25, 2018 01:53
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In my experience, no turbo motor likes ANY restriction in the intake. Plus, it's just dirty. And that will not do. On the BMW front, everything looks really good with it. But I'm assuming there's maintenance that hasn't been done. With that, I'm thinking about just putting it up on jack stands and taking some time to get everything up to par. Why would that take time? Well, in its infinite wisdom, BMW made part 1 of changing the transfer case fluid "Drop the exhaust system." For the front differential, there's "Remove the subframe brace" which is a serious metal plate needing some impact work to remove. For the transfer case there's "Drop the driveshaft going from the transfer case to the front differential." With all of that, I think it'll be better to just put it up in the air, take everything apart, do all of the fluids at once and be good to go after that. Maybe while I'm under there I'll clean the oil underneath and try to find where that's coming from.
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Jun 25, 2018 14:15
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Whatever works, it certainly won't hurt to replace it. That does not sound fun to work on.
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Jun 25, 2018 15:26
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Mine was leaking a ton of oil from the oil filter housing gasket. There is an seal at the oil cooler that gets brittle and leaks onto your alternator. Of course this is an N52 so don't know if its applicable. From the wiki page, the N54 seems to have a simliar thing hanging off the oil filter, maybe check under that.
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Jun 25, 2018 15:38
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blindjoe posted:Mine was leaking a ton of oil from the oil filter housing gasket. There is an seal at the oil cooler that gets brittle and leaks onto your alternator. Of course this is an N52 so don't know if its applicable. That's one of my first thoughts. From what I've seen there's something coming from up high, so either valve cover or that housing gasket. I'll dig into it when I take the top stuff off.
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Jun 25, 2018 16:05
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Seminal Flu posted:Why would that take time? Well, in its infinite wisdom, BMW made part 1 of changing the transfer case fluid "Drop the exhaust system." For the front differential, there's "Remove the subframe brace" which is a serious metal plate needing some impact work to remove. For the transfer case there's "Drop the driveshaft going from the transfer case to the front differential." Jesus Christ, no wonder most people seem to avoid the awd models So what are your plans, are you going to keep it or flip it? Honestly if things turn out well with the BMW I'd rather have that and dump the Escalade if you don't absolutely need a third row.
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Jun 25, 2018 17:06
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Jesus Christ, no wonder most people seem to avoid the awd models Hopefully it ends up a good car, I'm not trusting it yet. I still need to get the AC system evacuated and recharged to see if it's just out of whack with the charge or if something else is at play. Even if I set gauges up to it, I know the PO messed with the charge, so I'd rather know there's spot-on the 700g charge that's supposed to be in there, then troubleshoot from there. If all goes well, I'll keep all current cars. The reason for this one is that my son is turning 16 soon and he's getting the Avalon. That leaves the Escalade for family trips (my wife's family is 2 hours away and the extra space is a godsend with two kids. It's worth keeping the Escalade just for that. And then the BMW for daily. Even typing that sentence makes me cringe a bit... I know how needy BMWs are.
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Jun 25, 2018 18:18
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Jesus Christ, no wonder most people seem to avoid the awd models It's better than the old 325ix where the front diff bolted to, and the half-shaft ran through the oilpan... But that's not saying much.
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Jun 25, 2018 22:23
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E61 also has the shaft through pan but they at least cast in a special tube for it. Since you'll be in there consider checking out the transfer case servo. Above 150k the worm gear wears out and won't engage the front shaft, which isn't such a big deal but it puts the transmission into full freakout limp home mode. There's a dude on e-bay that machines the worm-gear as a standalone part for like $65 instead of the $700 for a new servo. At least you have the N54 so no worries about aluminum head-bolts breaking off and ending up in the timing chain like on the N52. I hope it works out for you, they are lovely to drive when they are working.
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Jun 25, 2018 22:47
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And with all my belly aching about mine, I still put 150k km on it in 4.5 years and it really only stranded us once. If you keep up on maintenance its a great daily, just like any BMW. You just can't ignore anything, and hopefully your wife is more understanding than mine who immediately started shopping when it wouldn't start the one time.
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Jun 25, 2018 23:03
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Oh dear. I found this site http://mhdtuning.com/mhd-flasher-n54/ and got stuffs on order. It's only got 155k miles, what could possibly go wrong with adding another 60hp. 
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Jun 29, 2018 19:39
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Could I bother you with a question on a car I've got coming from Japan? I'm thinking front bumper needs a respray but I'd like an opinion.
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Jun 29, 2018 20:24
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everdave posted:Could I bother you with a question on a car I've got coming from Japan? I'm thinking front bumper needs a respray but I'd like an opinion. Only if you put a turbo on it. I saw the pics, probably will need a respray, but the pics aren't clear enough to see if it's paint transfer or rubbed off down to primer/base plastic.
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Jun 29, 2018 21:04
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THere is a worse spot than what you saw so I guess respray
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Jun 29, 2018 21:22
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everdave posted:THere is a worse spot than what you saw so I guess respray Let's see! The spot I saw (RF Bumper) is tough, because it's also a 2-color spray.
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Jun 29, 2018 21:31
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Is this the Crown Majesta? For any goons not reading the 'Lets import vehicles from Glorious Nippon for fun & profit' thread. Go. Go Now.
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Jun 30, 2018 12:49
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I am absolutely sold on cheap Chinese ceramic coating. I washed the Escalade today, for the first time since March or April. It still looked clean and the water ran off of it. As I got to cleaning it, there was a dirt buildup that came right off and it was a quick dry. Ceramic coating worked great. I then washed, clayed, polished and ceramic'd the Avalon. Man, $5 ceramic coating is the best thing for garbage cars. It filled a lot of the scratches and gave it a great shine. It looks presentable and it'll be a good benchmark for the coating's longevity since it stays outside. I only did one coat, but even that will probably be worlds better than what it was like before.
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Jun 30, 2018 21:15
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Seminal Flu posted:I am absolutely sold on cheap Chinese ceramic coating. Ceramic coating is indeed awesome, is that the stuff you linked before? Does one bottle really do an entire car?
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Jun 30, 2018 22:54
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Rhyno posted:Ceramic coating is indeed awesome, is that the stuff you linked before? Does one bottle really do an entire car? Yes and yes. One bottle got me at least 2 coats, even on the huge rear end Escalade. I ordered 6 more bottles just because it's so cheap, I want to make sure I have some on hand all the time.
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Jun 30, 2018 23:46
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Badass. I'll order some since both my cars are beater status
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Jul 1, 2018 01:05
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Seminal Flu posted:Let's see! The spot I saw (RF Bumper) is tough, because it's also a 2-color spray. It needs a respray I just am a stupid man but thank you. There is a spot that is scorched. I guess a weirdo who only drives 6500 km in 25 years can’t park good.
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Jul 1, 2018 04:52
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I got the cable and threw the MHD State 1 tune on it and... good news and bad news. Bad news first -- as soon as it starts to push, it falls on its face. Combustion misfires, cylinder 1. Unknown plug/coil history, so I just ordered a set of both. The holiday fucks me and Amazon won't have the parts here until late in the week, though.  The good news is that the code is quickly cleared and it tries again and... gently caress... this thing has a potential to be really fast. Feathering into the throttle in 2nd gear generates one hell of a lot more push than it did before, and that's not even being able to go full-throttle. If I can make this reliable, it'll be an absolute loving beast.
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Jul 1, 2018 20:12
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Seminal Flu posted:I got the cable and threw the MHD State 1 tune on it and... good news and bad news. Just hope that it isn't an injector. They have to have a matching index with the others which usually means replacing all 6 and having to have them coded as well.
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Jul 1, 2018 20:51
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Minnesota Mixup posted:Just hope that it isn't an injector. They have to have a matching index with the others which usually means replacing all 6 and having to have them coded as well. Could be. I got lucky with the code for the thermostat heater clearing after I cleaned the contacts. I hope my luck streak continues.
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Jul 1, 2018 21:11
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Fuel filter?
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Jul 1, 2018 21:30
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angryrobots posted:Fuel filter? We'll see after plugs/coils. Both are known wear items, with the plugs being recommended at ~40k intervals. It was on my list to do anyway, since I don't have a full service history. With that, I'm assuming the plugs are old and probably gunked up (along with the intake ports). There were no issues before, but as soon as it sees parameters exceeding stock it falls on its face... that makes me think of the known maintenance things first. Stay tuned, we'll see when the plugs and coils show up!
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Jul 1, 2018 22:43
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Seminal Flu posted:Stay tuned You first
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Jul 1, 2018 23:18
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Minnesota Mixup posted:Just hope that it isn't an injector. They have to have a matching index with the others which usually means replacing all 6 and having to have them coded as well. BMW.txt
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Jul 2, 2018 13:51
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I think it allows them to manufacture to looser tolerances and then just compensate in software, but yeah, means recoding. It is my understanding that one doesn't have to replace all of them at once, but it could be.BloodBag posted:BMW.txt Ayup.
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Jul 2, 2018 14:32
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bolind posted:I think it allows them to manufacture to looser tolerances and then just compensate in software, but yeah, means recoding. It is my understanding that one doesn't have to replace all of them at once, but it could be. There are different revisions/numbers. If you are replacing like-for-like, you can do 1 and recode. I haven't looked deep enough to see what version is installed on mine yet. That'll tell me if they're original or if they've been changed.
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Jul 2, 2018 15:49
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I also have a full set of N54 injectors and a HPFP (used) that were replaced with newer revisions but didn't fix the problem (on my car it was the in tank fuel pump). You can have all that stuff for $50 to cover shipping if you want it.
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Jul 3, 2018 11:50
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doogle posted:I also have a full set of N54 injectors and a HPFP (used) that were replaced with newer revisions but didn't fix the problem (on my car it was the in tank fuel pump). You can have all that stuff for $50 to cover shipping if you want it. I'll definitely take you up on that. Give me until next week so I can get it running? Wait, what's that? Get it running? Yes, I'm a cavalier dumb impatient monkey and I wanted to drive it without the missing from the tuned map with crap plugs/coils. So, I decided to back out the tune and it turbofucked the whole god damned car. The MHD tune seems to work fine, all reports are fine, it shows that it's writing the DME and completes successfully. Unfortunately, all I get is a few seconds of cranking with no fire, or it does catch and bounces between 1200-1500rpm with no throttle response. And the whole dash is a christmas tree. I replaced the battery with a brand new AGM monster and coded it with Carly. No change. I checked every fuse, all fine. I have tried several different map writes, including re-reverting to stock. No change. I'm loving tired, hot and annoyed. It seems like the bouncing idle is a throttle issue, but the conventional wisdom of holding the pedal down, etc. does nothing. I've got ISTA-D / Rheingold downloaded, but gently caress, I didn't want this to turn into a deep dive. meatpimp is sad.
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Jul 3, 2018 19:35
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Jul 3, 2018 19:45
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It's alright, I'm thinking it's probably a single point of failure. If I can get it to idle and respond to throttle, I'll be able to drive it and hopefully most of the codes will clear. I just need to get on top of a lot of the software that's available, but that I have no experience with... deep dive, baby, deep dive. Playing with cars can be a dangerous game.
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Jul 3, 2018 22:24
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Jul 3, 2018 22:26
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It's not that much further down, I'm sure. 
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Jul 3, 2018 23:06
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Meatpimp this time next week
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Jul 4, 2018 01:25
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