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Applebees Appetizer posted:Yeah me too. The paint on my xB is fine, just a strip would work but our Lexus could probably use more than that and I suck with a buffer so I'd probably have somebody else do it....I wonder if anyone is putting on the ceramic coating as a service, that would be nice because I don't really fell like doing it myself. Meatpimp you gonna be in FL any time soon? If you are serious, I know a dude who does it professionally and is mobile from my neck of the woods. You're gonna pay though. 
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Jul 4, 2018 08:15
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Meatpimp this time next week Wrong side of the arm... also, everybody serious knows you go down the street, not across the tracks.
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Jul 4, 2018 08:43
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Meatpimp, get INPA and check codes and shadow codes with that, it also has some very useful diagnostic tools for checking rough idle. Also check so that all the air intake hoses are good and non leaky. Does this engine have DISA? Check the flap and gaskets if it does.
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Jul 4, 2018 13:52
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Cached Money posted:Meatpimp, get INPA and check codes and shadow codes with that, it also has some very useful diagnostic tools for checking rough idle. Also check so that all the air intake hoses are good and non leaky. Does this engine have DISA? Check the flap and gaskets if it does. What is with the alphabet soup of BMW software -- INPA / ISTA / Rheingold (I think that's ISTA/D) / Daten / WinKFP / etc? I'm used to GM stuff, where there's just a TECH2 needed or poo poo like that. I'm attempting to set up ISTA this morning, looks to be a good tool. Edit: No DISA, it's an N54, so it's got all the other potential failures, though.  Edit 2: gently caress, I can't even get to the game. I'm stuck in the game behind the game which is getting the loving software setup. There's a decade of revisions, all talked about in every loving indexed forum on the internet. So even with the most current one tracked down, finding out information is an exercise in futility. Of course there's nothing standard and even the "best" looking ones are kludges filled with registry hacks and who the gently caress knows what. At least I'm using a spare laptop so I'm not loving up my main poo poo. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 14:07
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EVERYWHERE 
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Seminal Flu posted:What is with the alphabet soup of BMW software -- INPA / ISTA / Rheingold (I think that's ISTA/D) / Daten / WinKFP / etc? I also found this garbage pirate software impossible to load, I ended up getting it to work but didn't do anything with it. I put it all on a Win7 VM. You need your definitions, which for the e61 was something like 7 gb file. It contained the information for every e60/e61 vin made. If you don't have that, it won't work. I think everything is done by text files, so you just download text files to the car, but I couldnt' figure out if you could upload the current text files. Hence me not doing anything with the software. I might be able to help if you need it.
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Jul 4, 2018 18:25
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blindjoe posted:I also found this garbage pirate software impossible to load, I ended up getting it to work but didn't do anything with it. I put it all on a Win7 VM. You need your definitions, which for the e61 was something like 7 gb file. It contained the information for every e60/e61 vin made. If you don't have that, it won't work. Thanks, I'm still digging. From what I can see, ISTA is a current, native Windows program that is widely available, but it's got many, many versions. I just need a basic diagnostic, so I'm trying to run the latest that seems to be "standard," with that, I'm using the Rheingold link from here: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1023698 I've followed that to the letter, followed by the setup from: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=936877 But I can't get it to talk to the car. Looks like others are having the same issue, but it relies on an EDIABAS backend for communication and I have no idea how to troubleshoot that. It's supposed to just work, but so was the MHD tune.  I'm trying to find out with an enet cable will work with an E61, but even that is a loving rabbit hole when trying to find a simple yes or no answer. Edit: looks like the answer is "no." Awesome. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 18:41
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I wonder why BMW made it so difficult 
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Jul 4, 2018 18:56
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I wonder why BMW made it so difficult Almost like they don't want people working on their own cars. Really makes you think.
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Jul 4, 2018 19:34
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INPA was pretty easy to get working, if I remember correctly the key is to install the different packages in the correct order and also configuring the ODB adapter COM port properly. I think the best forum for the alphabet soup software is BMWcoders. Cached Money fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 19:41
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I have an edibas D-CAN cable you can have that works too.
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Jul 4, 2018 19:53
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Progress.
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Jul 4, 2018 20:48
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Mod request: Please change tag to 
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Jul 4, 2018 23:28
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doogle posted:I also have a full set of N54 injectors and a HPFP (used) that were replaced with newer revisions but didn't fix the problem (on my car it was the in tank fuel pump). You can have all that stuff for $50 to cover shipping if you want it. Seminal Flu posted:Mod request: Please change tag to Last night was weird. I put the charger on at about 5PM because I had been trying various things through the day. At about 9PM I went out to disconnect the charger and the rear lights were on. And nothing else. AT ALL. Because the car was fully dead and the charger off because it overheated. I put the rear seats down and crawled into the back (because the hatch and hatch glass are both electric  ) to disconnect the battery and say "gently caress it" for the night.But then I got to thinking... there's got to be a major wiring or ground issue. That issue may be causing the problems. I've noticed that even when I've got the charger on, connected to the factory terminals under the hood, that there's a pretty significant voltage drop between the terminals and what the charger is putting out. Something's fucky. At least I have a direction of where to start looking. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 11:26 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 11:15
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I was hoping your update was going to be good news, but it seems you're further down the well. If your charger overheated it's got to be short rather than a grounding issue right? E: or maybe not because your charger should be fused? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 12:10
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Fo3 posted:I was hoping your update was going to be good news, but it seems you're further down the well. I don't know... I've got the charger hooked directly up to the battery, which is removed from the car's system... because...  There was a weird box in the ECU area of the plenum that I looked at and thought was empty. Nope. It has fuses. Fuses for the DME. And... I've got to wait until the battery is charged, but most of my issues are with the DME, and there's a DME fuse blown, so... fingers crossed.
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Jul 5, 2018 14:24
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Hopefully that's the cause and not a symptom of it. Guess you'll find out soon! KEEP DIGGING GOON, YOU'RE ALMOST OUT OF THE WELL
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Jul 5, 2018 14:30
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Adiabatic posted:Hopefully that's the cause and not a symptom of it. Guess you'll find out soon! We'll see. I'm just sitting here jerking off waiting for the battery to get charged. It started out at 10.8V  It's up to 12.25V, and I don't want to try anything without the battery being fully charged, because being an impatient monkey is what got me into this situation in the first place...
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Jul 5, 2018 16:30
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The more I read this thread, the more I think that there is a future in E46 speculation.
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Jul 5, 2018 17:09
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Jul 5, 2018 18:46
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Yes, but how does it drive? Did you fix the driveability w/ the tune?
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Jul 5, 2018 18:49
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Beverly Cleavage posted:Yes, but how does it drive? Runs and drives fine. All codes were gone before I got out of the driveway. Plugs and coils are to be delivered today. We'll see how that goes. Right now I'm happy to not have a 4000lb paperweight. On that note, the plugs for the N54 require a thinwall socket that is just the cutest thing.
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Jul 5, 2018 19:01
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Yeah, I bought the thin wall socket to do plugs on my N52 engine cars, and apparently needed to buy the thinner walled socket for my N55. Guess that's one way to build a collection of tools.
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Jul 5, 2018 19:10
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I've had one since the 12a turbo rotary I had in 1993. Welcome to the future. Glad you got it running meatpimp. What caused the fuse to blow? Just IMO but that doesn't look like an original BMW fuse either, so it's happened before I think. Also it's pretty funny BMW still have an analogue style mpg meter like they did in the 80s. E: and that screen printing on the indicator stalk is almost exactly the same too. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 20:22
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I owned an E30 325is and 09 128i at the same time and they were very similar on the interior. Almost everything was in the same place.
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Jul 5, 2018 20:47
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Fo3 posted:Glad you got it running meatpimp. What caused the fuse to blow? Just IMO but that doesn't look like an original BMW fuse either, so it's happened before I think. I don't know what caused the fuse to blow, but it happened at the exact moment the MHD app was flashing back to stock. I think the battery was low, too, and I had a charger hooked up (per app instructions), so I'd guess there was some weird fault that happened. Hopefully just the once. I hate the loving mpg gauge, and would rather just have a proper loving coolant temp gauge. Just like I'd rather have a loving oil dipstick. Over-engineering to force reliance on the dealership is bullshit. And man, what a difference a day makes. The coils and plugs showed up and I tossed them in. Most things looked good, a little bit of oil in a couple wells, but nothing major. The thing is... I put the coils and plugs in, started it up and got the same misfire in cylinder 1. And I knew what it was. Some monkey has been in there before and replaced a 3" section of wire going to the #1 coil. However, that wire and the wire next to it both had the insulation stripped. I am guessing that they got pinched under the plastic cover. I stuck some electrical tape on them for now, but I'll have to get a permanent solution soon. BUT... with new coils and plugs there are no codes and even at 93* this thing MOVES. I got traction control to kick in on a flat straight road. For a big 4wd car, that's something. It is reminding me a lot of my modded Forester XT. Nice pile of parts:
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Jul 5, 2018 21:05
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Glad to see you're getting this sorted out. If you find oil around the engine check the valve cover, N54/55 are notorious for needing to have it replaced.
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Jul 5, 2018 21:51
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Hooray a happy ending!
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Jul 6, 2018 03:13
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Rhyno posted:Hooray a happy ending! And the car's fixed too!
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Jul 6, 2018 12:26
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Rhyno posted:Hooray a happy ending! Dagen H posted:And the car's fixed too!  At the same time!?I looked at the old coils today, every one had a late-2008 date code. So they were originals. The plugs... they can't be original, BMW suggests a 50k replacement, but I don't know. The previous owner promised me a set of records from the BMW dealership, but he's on vacation until next week. I hope he produces them, it'll give me a better view of the car. From looking at some of the computer stuff, the car has had 10 oil changes where the interval was reset, but the PO said that he sometimes took it to Valvoline where they didn't reset the system. Worst-case is that the car went about 15k between oil changes. That makes me cringe, but it's in the recommended schedule. Sway bar end links should show up today, that should get rid of a pesky rattle from the left front. It's nice to be able to think about little things, I hope that continues, but this week was a big hit to my confidence in the car!
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Jul 6, 2018 15:37
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Wow man, you're almost out of the well good poo poo. You should play the lottery now
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Jul 6, 2018 16:26
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Wow man, you're almost out of the well good poo poo. I reference you to the case of "meatpimp vs. stolen-and-stripped modded Miata" that I bought sight-unseen from a goon and shipped it up from Florida to Ohio. That ended up being one of the best and fastest cars I've ever had. Probably won't get that lucky this time, but here's hoping.
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Jul 6, 2018 17:38
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Out of curiosity, did you figure out what that fuse was for specifically, or was it just general DME power? I had a similar situation with my E46 where it would bounce back and forth between 1.2-1.5k RPM at idle, and not respond to the throttle pedal + dash a christmas tree - this after boosting the car due to a dead battery. The symptom stuck around after replacing the battery, I had to reset the throttle adaption and the issue went away. Apparently it's some kind of mode that allows the vehicle to be driven (I could put it in gear, take the clutch out, and it wouldn't stall, just keep bouncing). Was this what it was doing? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXQPDndJhi4
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Jul 7, 2018 03:14
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TrueChaos posted:Out of curiosity, did you figure out what that fuse was for specifically, or was it just general DME power? Yep, same thing as the video. The fuse was a really strange one. It is a DME fuse that, from the wiring diagram, seems to run a number of the inputs. Including the vanos stuff and the throttle. So all of that stuff was dead, but I could still read/write to the DME fine. After I fixed it, I told the MHD guy that you can see from the logs that the DME fuse blew at the exact moment that his app was rewriting the DME and he said that fuses blow all the time, it has nothing to do with his app. 
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Jul 7, 2018 08:54
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Maybe it was for low speed communication power?
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Jul 7, 2018 10:31
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Seminal Flu posted:After I fixed it, I told the MHD guy that you can see from the logs that the DME fuse blew at the exact moment that his app was rewriting the DME and he said that fuses blow all the time, it has nothing to do with his app. I would be surprised if software alone managed to pop a 30A fuse since I'd assume that's all serial-chip logic level. Maybe the DME was in some kind of weird state before it started loving with it. A really interesting failure!
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Jul 7, 2018 12:38
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Someone made a VM of all the useful software here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1220039 I think you will really like the MHD tune, I've run it for the last year on my E92 N54. I also had to do plugs and coils too, although I don't blame the MHD. My parents E90 N52 had the same issues around the same age. Seminal Flu posted:
You can probably code the MPG gauge to oil temp. That is what I did for the E90 (the E92 had an oil temp gauge there stock). Tutorial is here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1245166 The talk about M57, but given it worked on an E90 cluster with an N52 and my E92 with the N54 has the gauge there stock, it should work.
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Jul 7, 2018 18:31
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doogle posted:I have an edibas D-CAN cable you can have that works too. Just sent a paypal payment for the parts, you're awesome! Sgt Fox posted:Someone made a VM of all the useful software here: Two great resources, thanks! It does look like the E60/61 can be coded the same way, I'll look into it. Seat Safety Switch posted:I would be surprised if software alone managed to pop a 30A fuse since I'd assume that's all serial-chip logic level. Maybe the DME was in some kind of weird state before it started loving with it. I'm wrestling with that one... I had no DME errors prior to that app. I directly used the app to change the DME and, at the exact same time a DME fuse popped... are you saying it's coincidence and not the fault of the app? (Honestly asking, I'm struggling to figure out what actually happened) Edit: This is similar to the fuse box mine was in, labeled the same, but without the 20A/30A labels. In the dark plenum, I looked at this and it seemed like an empty fuse box, I'd never seen a fuse box with such a deep cover. Even once I got it out, it took a minute to even figure out how to get it open, the 5 fuses are captive in a holder and they all plug into the system as one unit. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 8, 2018 |
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Jul 8, 2018 18:52
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Seminal Flu posted:I'm wrestling with that one... I had no DME errors prior to that app. I directly used the app to change the DME and, at the exact same time a DME fuse popped... are you saying it's coincidence and not the fault of the app? (Honestly asking, I'm struggling to figure out what actually happened) Talking entirely out of my rear end, it's a pretty big (green/30A) fuse. I assumed the DME software on your end just sends over firmware and commands at logic-level voltage (like 3.3-5v) and correspondingly almost no current is drawn. Even a static shock probably can't pop a 30A automotive-grade fuse. More than 30A is probably impossible for the laptop itself to provide, but maybe the DME system on the car side was in a state where it got confused when the software started sending information over? Dunno. My guess is whatever happened, the DME system did it to itself, probably through driving too many relays or whatever and pulled too much current at once. Something got stuck on during the flash and didn't turn off in time, maybe. It might be an act-of-God coincidence, or the software exercised some part of the car-side DME that is already marginal from corrosion or age or whatever, or the software has a bug where it doesn't respect the DME system's state and tries to put it in an unsafe place where the DME system pulled too much current and popped that fuse. The last one is maybe possible since I assume it was reverse-engineered and might not cover all possible states the DME system might be in, and if Bosch/BMW is expecting only official software and tools to be probing the car, they likely didn't bother making it more resistant to something like that. Maybe it "officially" expects you to have sent commands to disable a bunch of the DME peripherals before you try flashing it, and the guy who wrote the app didn't know that because it works most of the time and when it doesn't just blows a fifty-cent fuse. An embedded hardware engineer will probably stop by soon to say "that's why we have fuses." In either case, I'd keep going until it happens again. Very strange failure, like I said. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jul 8, 2018 |
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Jul 8, 2018 19:39
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The MHD flasher does some weird stuff over the coms bus. Whenever I flash mine, the radio won't respond to any buttons on the front panel, only the steering wheel controls. The problem persists until the car has been turned off for at least half an hour, which is when the car fully shuts itself off. It worried me the first time and now I've just learned to deal with it whenever I flash the DME.
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Jul 9, 2018 02:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Good tech Sgt Fox posted:The MHD flasher does some weird stuff over the coms bus. Whenever I flash mine, the radio won't respond to any buttons on the front panel, only the steering wheel controls. The problem persists until the car has been turned off for at least half an hour, which is when the car fully shuts itself off. It worried me the first time and now I've just learned to deal with it whenever I flash the DME. Well, another couple days and the basics seem to be okay. Still getting the 2E7C BSD code that makes the oil sensor wonky. Looking through every instance I can find on the forums shows that the only solution after the basics are checked is a DME replacement. Again never saw that code until the instant I installed the MHD stuff. Too much of a coincidence for me to buy. There's some state of the DME that they didn't account for that hosed my stuff. Anyway, on to other stuff. I took all the undertray stuff off today to start to troubleshoot the oil leaks. Looks like the valve cover gasket is leaking pretty good. The trays were filled with gunk, so whatever it is has been leaking for some time. Only a slight bit of damp at the engine/transmission mating area, so I think the rear main seal is okay. If ignored, can the valve cover gasket leaks get pretty significant with these?
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Jul 10, 2018 16:59
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