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Seminal Flu posted:After I fixed it, I told the MHD guy that you can see from the logs that the DME fuse blew at the exact moment that his app was rewriting the DME and he said that fuses blow all the time, it has nothing to do with his app. I would be surprised if software alone managed to pop a 30A fuse since I'd assume that's all serial-chip logic level. Maybe the DME was in some kind of weird state before it started loving with it. A really interesting failure! 
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Jul 7, 2018 12:38
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 11:46 |
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Seminal Flu posted:I'm wrestling with that one... I had no DME errors prior to that app. I directly used the app to change the DME and, at the exact same time a DME fuse popped... are you saying it's coincidence and not the fault of the app? (Honestly asking, I'm struggling to figure out what actually happened) Talking entirely out of my rear end, it's a pretty big (green/30A) fuse. I assumed the DME software on your end just sends over firmware and commands at logic-level voltage (like 3.3-5v) and correspondingly almost no current is drawn. Even a static shock probably can't pop a 30A automotive-grade fuse. More than 30A is probably impossible for the laptop itself to provide, but maybe the DME system on the car side was in a state where it got confused when the software started sending information over? Dunno. My guess is whatever happened, the DME system did it to itself, probably through driving too many relays or whatever and pulled too much current at once. Something got stuck on during the flash and didn't turn off in time, maybe. It might be an act-of-God coincidence, or the software exercised some part of the car-side DME that is already marginal from corrosion or age or whatever, or the software has a bug where it doesn't respect the DME system's state and tries to put it in an unsafe place where the DME system pulled too much current and popped that fuse. The last one is maybe possible since I assume it was reverse-engineered and might not cover all possible states the DME system might be in, and if Bosch/BMW is expecting only official software and tools to be probing the car, they likely didn't bother making it more resistant to something like that. Maybe it "officially" expects you to have sent commands to disable a bunch of the DME peripherals before you try flashing it, and the guy who wrote the app didn't know that because it works most of the time and when it doesn't just blows a fifty-cent fuse. An embedded hardware engineer will probably stop by soon to say "that's why we have fuses." In either case, I'd keep going until it happens again. Very strange failure, like I said. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jul 8, 2018 |
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Jul 8, 2018 19:39
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meatpimp posted:Then we continued on. In the last episode, we'll get to California and I may or may not have been involved in someone's death. Don't be humble.
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Feb 8, 2019 06:08
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meatpimp posted:That's not a bad idea. I've been chasing the symptom, but I may be looking in the wrong place for the cause. 30A is a lot of current.
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Feb 10, 2019 22:02
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I feel like I would be chucking the old steering column unit through the dealer's service desk window at this point.
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Nov 9, 2019 03:59
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meatpimp posted:My personal VAG favorite was my '86 Audi 4000S. In that era, they ran the full-current headlight wiring through the headlight switch. So it'd get hot and burn up. And then you had no headlights. Didn't Porsche do the same thing?
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Dec 17, 2019 03:35
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meatpimp posted:So, to recap: Whenever I'd shift into reverse, I'd get a loud warning chime and the parking sensor switch would flash. All because the rear buzzer was dead. The front system was fully functional, the car just shut it off out of spite because the rear wasn't working. I was like, why the gently caress is a parking buzzer a discrete object in the back of a car? Why not build it into the stereo like I assume everyone else does? Maybe using the same system that is making the loud warning chime to tell you that the parking buzzer broke? And then I searched: https://www.audiworld.com/how-tos/a/audi-how-to-replace-rear-parking-buzzer-422192
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Jan 18, 2020 04:30
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Do they actually design these cars or just have a big pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey session where they cram poo poo into every orifice until the outline of the car on the whiteboard is full and then ship it? At this point you could tell me there are ECUs in the doors and I'd believe you.
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Jan 18, 2020 05:01
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 11:46 |
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LloydDobler posted:I had the PDM (passenger door module) go out in my 01 Volvo and the window, power lock, power mirror, mirror defrost, and ambient temperature gauge on the dash (the sensor for which is in the mirror housing) all died. It looks like a basic window switch, but it's not. I'd be really curious to tear one of those things down, if you ever bust another one.
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Jan 19, 2020 04:41
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