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Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
Yeah, bumping the power on the N54 is really easy. The N55 isn't bad, but the newer B58 basically requires a different exhaust to get more out of it.

The thing I'll say though, is check what brakes you have. My dad's 335 has stock brakes, and personally I hate them compared to the M Sport brakes on my 335. Part of it's familiarity, but going faster is going to need better stopping. Not sure if they put different brakes on the 5s compared to the 3s.

https://www.bmwvin.com/ should let you see what options it shipped with.

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Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
Yeah, I bought the thin wall socket to do plugs on my N52 engine cars, and apparently needed to buy the thinner walled socket for my N55. Guess that's one way to build a collection of tools.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
I changed my oil today. Having just read this, I thought "Man, I should wipe down my engine bay", but then I realized it's 90*, the car is black, and the driveway is also black. So, I checked the oil pressure, reset the service, and went inside for a beer. Maybe next time.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
Oh. I didn't catch that before. My 06 needed one replacement oil level sensor, my dad's 07 needed two. Granted, N52 engines, but a bit suspicious. I don't recall if my 09 had it replaced or not.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

angryrobots posted:

This popped up locally. There's got to be something wrong with it, right? I mean other than the guaranteed future issues.

That's year two of the N54. Find out of the HPFP recall was done or not. If not, the HPFP warranty went to 10 years, so even that's out of it should it go. It has Apex wheels, which I found to be quite good on my E90, well made and certainly lighter than stock. I guess see if there are any maintenance records beyond just the clutch? Judge the seller based on what brand lowered suspension?

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
My '06 E90 and '15 F30 didn't / don't have that whine, but my '09 E90 definitely did. I don't think I ever found out what it was, other than some googling that suggested some years of awd BMW's were loud. :( It was definitely a different sound than a wheel bearing going out. At this point I forget if it was the rear diff or the transfer case.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

Seminal Flu posted:

I've been thinking about it. :wink:

What in the hell is going on with this thread?

So I've been thinking about the noise. I think there's a good chance that it's the front differential. If it is, I have a plan. And I'm not happy about the plan.

I do not have a lift. And I have 3 problems that need to be addressed with the car -- front differential, oil pan gasket, and thermostat/water pump.

The front differential has to be removed, along with the subframe, to do the oil pan gasket. With the subframe removed, the thermostat/water pump changes from a royal pain in the rear end to a simple swap.

So. I'm thinking about driving it as-is over the winter and, if it doesn't blow up, in the spring contract with a shop to drop the subframe and replace the parts. It'll be about 1000x easier on a lift, so I guess that's the cost of suburban living. :sigh:

This is about where AI starts rationalizing buying a lift for their garage... :D

I mean, hey. If that dude took an AMG engine out of a minivan on a Quickjack, that or a Maxjax should have you all set!

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
Well the good news is now that you have a baseline, the actual process is really easy. The last time I did my oil, I think it was 40 minutes, most of which was having a friend bring my a strap wrench since I forgot where I packed the fancy cap tool due to moving. Smart.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
I know the N52 had a lifter tick that was present if/when not revved high enough and long enough. You really just fix it by holding the rpm at 3k or so for a few minutes. Does the N54 have the same issue?

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
Neat. In theory it shouldn't cause issues since you're just electronically telling the clutch pack to stay open. If I were running it a lot, I'd probably want to check the transfer case oil at a certain point, but the idea should be less wear since it's open.

I skimmed some of the e90post comments, and there's an interesting balance - it'll change the steering to be less understeer, which makes sense, but technically the car will be marginally slower since you're losing front drive grip (see the video about the stick shift M2 vs the auto 340xi). They're claiming a 30hp increase since you're dropping drivetrain losses a bit, that's maybe a bit optimistic.

I vote Meatpimp tries it out, the F series version isn't out yet. :P

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

meatpimp posted:

The only thing keeping me from jumping on it is a lack of understanding of the actual transfer case operation.

The E60/61 transfer case has a worm gear that actuates... something... that wears out and needs to be replaced. I thought that was what changed the ratio of F/R power distribution, I hadn't seen clutch pack references until the app description.

So I need to know what that worm gear actually does and if this app decreases or increases wear on it.

Edit: From Wikipedia "The wet clutch is applied through a high speed electric servo motor turning a cam-shaped actuator disc."

So that servo actuator controls things, the worm gear is part of that actuator system. How does this app actually work? I'm assuming it runs the cam mechanism to one extreme. Does that effect longevity? (Although on this car, longevity could be something that isn't very long...)

The powertrain PDF explains the difference between the F48 and F25, with the F48 having the new fwd bias awd, and the F25 having the one the rest of us have (X1). https://f48.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1177240

I went to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_xDrive and started looking at sources.

Alarbus fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Feb 12, 2019

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
That's great. Did you use a wired OBDII connector, or bluetooth?

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
What tires do you have? I'm considering trying this when I switch to my summer tires, which will likely need to be replaced with pilot sport 4s. My summer set is also staggered, so better and wider rubber might be key.

I went from a 328 with PSS to a 335 with Bridgestone all seasons and the change was depressing. Fixed the all seasons, next is fixing the summers.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
A good PDR guy is worth gold. I picked up a weird hood dent from a road trip, and while I was at the body shop for an insurance bumper fix, they had their guy work the hood. Even right after he finished I couldn't find anything.

Ozone/burning definitely a worse failure mode. On both E90s, the bearing in the blower rusted due to lovely engineering placement and gave a delightful squeal. The 06 was covered, but on the 09 I discovered you can shimmy it out under the glovebox in something like 30 minutes. (And swap over the electronics, so you're just buying a $40 squirrel cage)

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

meatpimp posted:

Point 1 -- I found a great PDR guy. He mowed through a couple door dings and a dent on the hood on the Escalade, light hail on the hood and a few door dings on the Juke, and medium hail and a few door dings on the BMW for $300. That's fantastic. I like the cars better when they don't look like golf balls. Plus, he did a ding on my mom's Beetle for $20 since he was already there and set up, all in my garage. He lives only about 10 minutes from me, so I'll definitely be keeping his card.

Point 2 -- Those loving Germans. I've been chasing a tapping coming from the head area of the BMW for a while. It comes and goes, predominantly when it's cold. No real rhyme or reason to it, it can be dead silent on startup, then start knocking. It can start knocking and stop shortly after startup, it can just keep knocking and knocking and knocking.

Doing a little bit of digging, I saw that pre-2009 N52s had "HVA" Hydraulic Valve Adjuster (lifter) issues that cause lifter tapping. The solution for that is to get the car warm and do a no-load 2-3000rpm run for 3 minutes, then stop to see if the noise is still there. If it is, repeat, for up to 30 minutes. Seriously, that's the official TSP procedure: https://techtips.alleuro.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/bmw-n52-Ticking-Noise-SBSI-B-11-09-07.pdf

I did that and the noise persisted through the first cycle, but was dead-gone after the second. So loving annoyingly German... if your car makes a noise, just run it until the noise stops. :psyduck:

I haven't started it since then, but it seems to be a super common issue with N54s as well, so I hope I'm at root cause. It is said to appear on cars that are frequently driven short distances, which is my exact situation, so here's hoping. :cheers:


Hahaha, we talked about that lifter tick last month. At least it didn't require disassembling something?

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Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

meatpimp posted:

Hey GMT800 guys -- is the 4L60E ridiculously sensitive to fluid level? A couple days ago I noticed the Escalade flaring about 300rpm when shifting between 2nd and 3rd at part and/or somewhat aggressive throttle. I thought worst-case and started looking at transmission prices, but I just took it out, got it warmed up and checked the fluid level and it was right at the low level. I put some fluid in to take it just above the high level and drove it for another 20 minutes.

All signs of flaring are gone, shifting normally.

Should I still be looking at selling the loving thing, or could that have been the cause of the flaring?

I'll check with my dad, but his suburban seemed to be fine, fine, transmission noise, broken, and he had a 4L60E.

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