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blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Remember to clean the sunroof drains, mine would fill the trunk with water whenever it rained. They got a sunroof cassette redesign in 07 that mine didn't have and the tiny lip would overflow. Yours probably will be better, but doesn't hurt to clean them.
Luckily, they put really expensive modules in the spare tire well, so that when it rains, they short out! (also relocate those to the side panels, you just take them out of the styrofoam and tuck them wherever the wires came from).

I have kept my 530xi e61 running for 5 years, so I know a little about these things. No turbos though.

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blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:

That's high on my list, especially since this is going to be an outside car. Good news is that it has been an outside car and the back area is dead dry.


Yup, hopefully it's an automotive cockroach.


Yup, going to be glue-tabbing them, at least.


New news: The codes it's throwing are P0597 and P0598. Pointing at the thermostat signal. My hope is that it's something fucky with the connector, because a) there's no reference to those codes being thrown on an N54 motor and b) it looks like the 535Xi is some unbelievable monster in packaging of the thermostat/water pump and I'll end up hating life if I get in there to replace it. Apparently it's an entirely different beast than the 535i because of the front drive stuff taking all the room. :suicide:

Update: Unplugged the thermostat and cleared the codes. Started up and drove a mile with no light, but as soon as I got on the main road, light and P0597 came back. Looks like it's the thermostat. Kill me. :bravo:

Ha yep, mine shut down on the highway due to overheating. So I replaced the water pump and thermostat. And got a too cold code.
So I paid someone to change the thermostat because you have to take the waterpump out first to get at it.
The subframe for the 4wd gets in the way of doing it from the back like the youtubes show.

Mine was an ebay thermostat/waterpump combo, so I didn't have a warranty, and wanted to get one so I didn't have to do it again.

The other one that wasn't much fun was the HVAC fan, but it was just 20 hours of work carefully taking the interior apart. I was able to clean everything while it was apart, so you may want to preemptivly change that as mine needed to be done last year, you probably have a year or two before your brushes wear out too. Fan is like $90, so parts are cheap, unless you break something in the interior, then its so much money.

Though after changing the thermostat you may not want to do much.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:


The waterpump was supposedly replaced, so hopefully it's just the thermostat. How much did the labor cost you for the job?

I think it was in the range of $400 cdn. But thats at an indy instead of the dealer.
At that point I was just happy that it was driving again and I didn't have to get in there.


That bavauto was the one I tried to follow and it isn't the same on the 4wd cars.

e: now that I think about it, it wasn't actually that bad, just took a long time. And when its the family car your wife uses to get to work, I couldn't take it apart for another weekend.
When I did the HVAC fan, it had been replaced already, so that took 2 weeks of evenings to get finished.

Ooo another thing that isn't a lot of fun is front wheel bearings. The 2wd version its a nice bolt on part. 4wd gets to remove a big snapring and press the bearings out. Which means you have to get the whole strut out. Ended up with 10 stitches in the thumb doing that when I slipped on a bolt.

blindjoe fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jun 13, 2018

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:

Oh man... I hadn't looked at tuning options until just now. $400 gets 80lb-ft at the wheels and more than 140lb-ft in spots under the curve. :swoon: The ideal thing to do to a 150k mile motor!


Definitely sounds like you've been in, on and around these things. I haven't received any replies from my quote requests on the stat, what is there to look for with the HVAC fan?

It manifests as rattling/grinding with the fan on, and changes when you turn (as the cages move around in the old bearings). This is the guide I printed out:

https://5series.net/forums/diy-do-yourself-14/e60%5Ce61-aircon-blower-motor-replacement-120792/

The nice thing about these cars is usually some nerd has documented what you need to do already. This could be the case for many cars, but since mine was always broken I appreciated the bmw nerds.

After my wife got fed up with it breaking and bought a new car, the e61 stayed in the family as it is now a vacation car in Hawaii. So I still get to fix it when it breaks. The last time I drove it, the glass hatch wouldn't stop opening as soon as power came on. I had the whole family in the car as I tore the hatch apart to get the solenoid unplugged so we could go the store to get breakfast on the first day of the vacation.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:

A quick 20-70 run isn't going change the oil viscosity through the heater making the thermostat open a bit more. If I was tracking it or sustained and repeated pulls there may be a difference, but that's not what this car will see. Am I making sense?


Xenon adaptive headlight unit... couldn't be more than what... $700 used? :laugh:

I wanted to replace mine as they were yellow, then figured out they wanted $1500ea. Looks like you can get them for $900 each now.

All the halos and stuff are expensive, and annoying when the car dings at you every time you start it and the halo light is out. Plus as it was an 05, the halos are some yellow weird light that you can't easily replace with LED.

Ended up polishing them, and putting the xpel covers on them. I recommend those, as you don't want a rock to chip your expensive lights. Plus additional UV protection makes it worth the $70 from pelican.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:

It's okay, this is a safe space for unsafe work. I do the same thing. My wife's Juke and brother's GTI both hike the rear wheel when jacking the front up same-side. I do rotations and wheel changes like that, too. This is the first time I've seen it across the car though, especially with one this long.

Got the Kuhmos mounted and balanced yesterday, so it's new tire day today.

Shopping for transmission fluid change stuff and spark plugs, since I don't know when these were changed last.

When you do the transmission fluid, make sure you check the electronic sleeve (if your car has it? mine did). Its a plastic thing that keeps the fluid out of the electronics, and can get old and leak.

Can be found as a mechatronics sleeve? https://5series.net/forums/diy-do-yourself-14/diy-mechatronics-sleeve-transmission-leak-96033/

I had to have it done when we bought the car, but haven't touched it since so I don't remember all the details.

Maybe you don't need to if its not leaking, but probably doesn't hurt to check while you are under there.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Mine was leaking a ton of oil from the oil filter housing gasket. There is an seal at the oil cooler that gets brittle and leaks onto your alternator. Of course this is an N52 so don't know if its applicable.
From the wiki page, the N54 seems to have a simliar thing hanging off the oil filter, maybe check under that.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
And with all my belly aching about mine, I still put 150k km on it in 4.5 years and it really only stranded us once. If you keep up on maintenance its a great daily, just like any BMW. You just can't ignore anything, and hopefully your wife is more understanding than mine who immediately started shopping when it wouldn't start the one time.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:

What is with the alphabet soup of BMW software -- INPA / ISTA / Rheingold (I think that's ISTA/D) / Daten / WinKFP / etc?

I'm used to GM stuff, where there's just a TECH2 needed or poo poo like that.

I'm attempting to set up ISTA this morning, looks to be a good tool.

Edit: No DISA, it's an N54, so it's got all the other potential failures, though. :D

Edit 2: gently caress, I can't even get to the game. I'm stuck in the game behind the game which is getting the loving software setup. There's a decade of revisions, all talked about in every loving indexed forum on the internet. So even with the most current one tracked down, finding out information is an exercise in futility. Of course there's nothing standard and even the "best" looking ones are kludges filled with registry hacks and who the gently caress knows what.

At least I'm using a spare laptop so I'm not loving up my main poo poo. :mad:


I also found this garbage pirate software impossible to load, I ended up getting it to work but didn't do anything with it. I put it all on a Win7 VM. You need your definitions, which for the e61 was something like 7 gb file. It contained the information for every e60/e61 vin made. If you don't have that, it won't work.
I think everything is done by text files, so you just download text files to the car, but I couldnt' figure out if you could upload the current text files. Hence me not doing anything with the software.

I might be able to help if you need it.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Mine looked great with tint, I forget the level, but its probably not nearly as dark as you need.
Totally jealous of your turbos, mine is only acceptable in getting out of its own way.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Seminal Flu posted:

New oil level sensor and... no change. :eng99:

Now the possible list of failures:

Alternator regulator
Integrated Battery Sensor
Water Pump
DME

I'm getting 14v from the alternator, which tells me that the alternator is talking to the car (since it varies voltage dependent on battery condition), but that would also mean that the IBS is working, too... Water pump seems to be working fine, as well.

I'm thinking that I need to remove the MHD tune and use the BMW software to fully reflash the DME to stock and see if that fixes it. There were no problems with the entire system before I did the initial flash.

This is a huge pain in the rear end.

I bet on the IBS, its vulnerable to water as its in the back corner where the sunroof drains are. If you are washing the car, it drains onto the IBS and shorts out.
Unplug that one first. Mine shorted and put the car in a no-start until it was unplugged, so actually who knows.
I needed a new water pump too, so Ive done 40% of the list too!

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
On mine, I could do it from the top once I got a few hoses out of the way. On his car I bet there are turbos in the way. Even so, I did mine once, and my thermostat was DOA, and I sent it to the shop where they could do it a second time. Mine was a german thermostat, but from ebay. I had too cold codes after changing it, so I assumed it stuck open.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
When the front wheel bearings went in mine, it was steering dependent. I cant remember if you turned towards or away to make the noise go away, but it was one of them. I wouldn't describe it as a whine, more like a rumble.

If you want to change them, remember you have to get specific 4wd bearings, all the listings are for 2wd ones. The 4wd ones you need a press, and they are expensive, even though you get less stuff.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Yep, still here.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

meatpimp posted:

Did I ask you which island your E61 was on? I'm in that area next month and was wondering if you had any pointers.

Its on Big Island, and I am leaving to see it (plus, you know, vacation) tonight.

I have done Big Island and Kauai, pm for pointers.

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blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Here now. Car looks good, but just had its battery replaced as it sat in the garage for 6 months and it had killed its 8 month old battery to zero volts at christmas. Now it leaked all its coolant out on to the garage floor (initial troubleshooting shows lower radiator hose) and it needs a quart of oil (pretty sure it just burns it, so thats not a problem I care about). Will call dealer to see how much it is to get them to change it so I don't have to deal with it on vacation.

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