I'm meatpimp, and I buy haunted cars.

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > I'm meatpimp, and I buy haunted cars.

doogle: May 24, 2003

I have a replacement keyfob shell if the car doesn't have comfort access that you can have.

edit:

You would have to cut your old key to get to the internals, but this new one snaps together. I was going to replace the shell of my 135i key but ended up selling it before I got a chance to do it.

doogle fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jun 13, 2018

# ¿ Jun 13, 2018 20:41

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# ¿ May 10, 2024 08:34

doogle: May 24, 2003

I also have a full set of N54 injectors and a HPFP (used) that were replaced with newer revisions but didn't fix the problem (on my car it was the in tank fuel pump). You can have all that stuff for $50 to cover shipping if you want it.

# ¿ Jul 3, 2018 11:50

doogle: May 24, 2003

I have an edibas D-CAN cable you can have that works too.

# ¿ Jul 4, 2018 19:53

doogle: May 24, 2003

I'd replace the valve cover gasket (it really isn't that bad, it is tedious though) and install the rb pcv (https://www.rbturbo.com/rbpcv).

# ¿ Jul 10, 2018 17:43

doogle: May 24, 2003

Yes it can be, and you should also check the oil filter housing for leaks as that is another common trouble spot. The oil filter housing gasket is an easy replacement too.

Edit: the worst part about the oil filter housing leaking is that it will leak directly on your belt/pulleys and get poo poo everywhere.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2018 17:55

doogle: May 24, 2003

You can definitely get it all done in a weekend. Might as well do an oil and coolant change at the same time since you have to drain some coolant when you take the oil filter housing off. People think that the OFH gasket failing is the cause of the thermostat/water pump failing because the gasket material has been found in the coolant.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2018 19:02

doogle: May 24, 2003

I walnut blasted my 135 with the dealer tool and some home depot adapters. Basically, there is a shop vac end that is the size of the port and a nozzle that goes through the shop vac end and blows walnut shells through which then get sucked up by the shop vac. Took about 3 hours including dis/reassembly. I (re)gained 17 peak whp from that.

# ¿ Jul 19, 2018 18:36

doogle: May 24, 2003

The good news is you might be done for a while after all that! I didn't really have too many issues with my N54, even at double the stock HP, but I got rid of it after 100k so you're into the unknown for me maintenance requirement-wise.

# ¿ Jul 21, 2018 19:30

doogle: May 24, 2003

I was cleaning up the garage and found a factory intake charge pipe with diverter valves if you end up needing it from blowing up the original one from 20 psi.

# ¿ Jul 22, 2018 15:44

doogle: May 24, 2003

BloodBag posted:

When I test drove a 135 coupe this was the first sign that the HPFP was on it's way out.

If it's not that, perhaps the throttle body was doing its homing procedure. The EJ25 sohc(2008) and the MZR both need to home the throttle body after the ECU has been reset or battery unplugged for a few hours. It's usually 30 seconds of ignition on, no run and then proceed to start.

The long cranks were fixed with a software update which primes the in tank fuel pump for x seconds when the car is unlocked and before it attempts to start the car. The issue was the fuel would leak back down into the tank and the HPFP wouldn't have any fuel to start it, causing the HPFP to eventually fail.

edit: I wouldn't worry about the long start unless it happens again. If it happens again, I'd recommend updating the ECU to the newest software revision. You should be able to do that in INPA/EDIBAS if I remember correctly. You will have to put your battery on a charger because it takes a while to do it and if it drops below ~13v it will fail and you will brick your ECU.

doogle fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jul 24, 2018

# ¿ Jul 24, 2018 15:46

doogle: May 24, 2003

That is terrible that you have to do the pan gasket... How many hours do they charge for labor?

https://youtu.be/OXrTwv5bzuA

# ¿ Aug 7, 2018 10:54

doogle: May 24, 2003

The "good" news is you can buy a msd81 for ~$100, then send in the msd81, your cas module, and a key to various places and get everything reprogrammed for ~$300. So for less than $500 total you'll fix the failure. It sucks, but not as bad as $1700 for a new ECU/programming from a dealer.

# ¿ Aug 13, 2018 23:31

doogle: May 24, 2003

Seminal Flu posted:

Thanks! Seems more fitting, anyway.

I changed the oil today. The way this car is right now, it was a bit more work than normal.

First off -- take off all of the cowl coverings and open up the waterproof DME box. Then unplug one of the DME connectors, take out the operative wire cluster and then remove the offending signal wire that is loving up the BSD subsystem.

Then, start the car and let it warm up so it can get a reading of the current oil level. Oil level after 1000 miles, 1/2 quart added and quite a bit leaking out? Shows all bars full, good sign!

Then, actually drain the oil into a graduated container. Just a hair over 6.5 liters. Good sign! Fresh fill is under 7 liters, so it's at most down 1 liter with over 1000 miles and whatever leaks.

Then, refill with just under 7 liters and let the car warm up until it can check the oil level again. Full bars again. Done!

So much loving drama instead of just having a loving dipstick.

Edit: Why change oil with only 1k miles? Well, to get a benchmark on how much it's leaking/burning/whatever and also to just get fresh stuff in there. I had a lot of poo poo pumped into the intake chambers when I cleaned the intake, and I'm sure some of that got into the oil system, so this is a nice flush. Plus, I have no idea what the PO had in there, so we should be good and synthetic now with 0W40 that should cover it for a while.

N54s generally consume a bit of oil as well. Mine was ran a bit harder than the average N54, but I was about a quart low every ~5k miles (no leaks). I ended up just doing 5k mile oil changes and that let me know when it was time, I was using factory oil which (supposedly) has a 15k mile change interval.

# ¿ Oct 3, 2018 19:41

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# ¿ May 10, 2024 08:34

doogle: May 24, 2003

Niacin posted:

Can you write me up a brief thinkpiece about the 'sport automatic transmission' and how it compares to DCT? Also, if you're thinking about getting rid: goon pricing?

I�ve driven a DCT e90 m3 a bunch and owned a few steptronic e90s. Daily driver? Get a steptronic. The low speed DCT nonsense would drive me crazy if I had to drive it everyday. And in the turbo cars, there is 0 boost drop with the auto so it just keeps freight training.

# ¿ Mar 30, 2019 01:40

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