I'm meatpimp, and I buy haunted cars.

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > I'm meatpimp, and I buy haunted cars.

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

That interior... definitely needs some love. Any saving the leather on that seat?

drat, I thought I was a pig...

# ¿ Jun 12, 2018 06:49

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# ¿ May 10, 2024 21:33

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Meatpimp this time next week

Wrong side of the arm... also, everybody serious knows you go down the street, not across the tracks.

# ¿ Jul 4, 2018 08:43

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Seminal Flu posted:

That's my plan, I was just wondering if that could be the cause of the leaks showing under the car... this valve cover gasket has been neglected and leaking for a while... could that be dripping onto the ground after it's gunked up the undertray?

Don't you own a car with a 1MZ-FE? You should know just how much oil can be pissed out of valve cover gaskets by now (hint: IT'S ALL OF THE OIL). :colbert:

# ¿ Jul 11, 2018 08:47

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Applebees Appetizer posted:

I've always drove slow cars that you can drive fast, and when I went from a 1.6 Miata to a 1.8 it was like woooooooohooooo! Really a small difference but felt huge lol.

Also my xB feels like a rocket ship compared to our HHR which is bizarre. The Chevy is just so loving anemic.

GM really crippled all of the Delta platform cars with the gearing, but the automatics got it especially bad. The programming on that transmission is just horrible.

GF's 5 speed Matrix feels a lot quicker than my 5 speed Ion. Hers is about 150 lbs lighter, has 15 less hp, and 15 ft/lbs less (though she has VVT), so you'd think they'd feel about the same. But no, her car just feels a lot quicker overall (once you get used to the touchy as gently caress clutch), and handles a lot better. I don't like the seating position for the driver in it, but it just feels like it's put together better (as you'd expect in econobox Toyota vs econobox GM).

I'm sure part of the handling is the mileage difference (155k vs 86k - her car is older, so I can't say it's age related), but it has no creaks or rattles. There's a very obvious build quality difference between the two cars, obviously in the Toyota's favor.

I will give the Saturn this - it's a much better road trip car. It's a bit quieter, the suspension is a lot softer, and the seats are a lot more comfortable. (also, cruise control) It also just feels like the engine is a lot more comfortable cruising at ~75 mph (probably because it's not wound up halfway to the moon). But with the electrical stuff that's started cropping up, I'm getting to where I don't want to trust it much beyond AAA free tow distance (100 miles in my case).

opengl128 posted:

Can confirm. Beater is a....I dunno 130ish hp Vibe. Driving the 460hp Mustang after driving the Vibe for a few days makes it feels like a supercar haha.

140hp/145 ft lbs with VVT on the base model's 1.8.

Try driving a Cobalt or Ion. See the rest of my post (the Vibe is just a Matrix with a Pontiac body, GM radio, and GM AC).

Seminal Flu posted:

My Avalon has a gear whine that gets loud right at about 35mph. It's a known thing with that Aisin transmission and it's annoying, but I don't care because that's just what they do.

This, though, just showed up after I did the shotgun maintenance.

That's.... odd. Yours is an XLS, right? Mom's XLS doesn't have any gear whine, though IIRC it's slightly newer (03). It's had regular transmission fluid changes, though, always with Toyota ATF.

Anytime I drive it I beat on it a bit, because I know she never takes it past 3k, maybe 3500. Still shifts "firm enough that you know the transmission is in good shape, but not jarring" when you hammer it, even with almost 170k on it. Far from a rocket, but for a boat, it moves okay. The irony is the average MPG on the trip computer always goes up a bit (sometimes by up to 3 mpg) when I drive it for a day. :iiam:

She's talking about getting rid of it soon (radiator is weeping, apparently that's her breaking point), and knows the trade on it won't be poo poo, so I might take it off her hands. Yeah, it's an ugly grandma car, but I know the full service history on it from day 1, and it's a bulletproof drivetrain that should run until dinosaurs roam the earth again.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Sep 26, 2018

# ¿ Sep 26, 2018 06:20

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

It's about halfway up before it grabs, but yeah it not only gets grabby real quick, but if you're too twitchy on the pedal, you either stall it or bounce it off the rev limiter + let clutch smoke escape.

This is with the brand new clutch, after a couple of thousand miles. The original clutch wasn't as bad, but it was still really touchy. It's a pretty difficult car to drive smoothly, this coming from someone who has driven manual Hondas and Nissans most of his life - but I suspect the flywheel is just too light for a daily driver.

It's one of the few cars that I would say would greatly benefit from a heavier flywheel. It's a very rev happy engine with a light flywheel in a fairly heavy (for a 1.8L engine) car. It honestly feels like it got a (very) lightened flywheel, but it went to a chain shop for the clutch job. I know it got a new flywheel, I just don't know if it got a stock one or if someone went 2F2F with it.

My Saturn's clutch starts grabbing just off the firewall, but it has a ~25 pound flywheel. You can't stall it without actively trying to stall it. You can just sidestep the Saturn's clutch at idle, and it usually takes off (not smoothly, but it does take off).

# ¿ Sep 26, 2018 08:44

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

angryrobots posted:

Where else can we read fine details about the clutch engagement of a long-forgotten American economy car with high mileage? Where, I ask? It's far more relevant to my life than anything in Motor Trend.

Except I was talking about a Toyota. :colbert:

# ¿ Sep 26, 2018 20:56

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

the matrix was made in America

angryrobots posted:

Yeah that's what I meant!

I'd like to invite everyone to take a look at the first digit of the VIN on the Matrix.

The first digit is "2". :canada:

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Sep 27, 2018

# ¿ Sep 27, 2018 08:13

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Slightly related, my dad (not stepdad; I don't talk about my blood-related dad in here often) recently purchased a Camry. A 4 cylinder Camry (loaded, and a hell of a nice car, but still). I had no idea until I visited last week.

I asked him why he went with the Camry, when he normally goes with either a sports car or a mid level Acura or Lexus. Turns out stepmom wanted him in something "practical" instead of fun; he really wanted a Lexus IS. His last car was a V6 Accord..

I mentioned the Lexus GS series happens to be RWD with plenty of power, and from the looks, you think it's just a typical luxury car. He looked like I'd just kicked a puppy in front of him.

That said, it looks like Lexus dropped the V8 from the GS (after 2012) unless you pony up for the GS F (which increases the base price from 46k to over 80k :stonkhat:

).

e: he doesn't ever buy used. he doesn't know which end of a screwdriver is the business end; trust me when I say he has no business owning a car out of factory warranty.

# ¿ Dec 3, 2018 08:52

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

GM molds the goddamned blower into the blower housing on my car.

You have to cut the drat thing out. There's locations in the plastic casting for brackets and screws (and apparently they did use a bracket for the first year model), but noooooo, they just mold it as one piece, and leave it up to you to figure out how to attach a new one. :fuckoff:

# ¿ Feb 17, 2019 10:54

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

A landau top would have been easier. :colbert:

At one time they were a feature on cars. Now if you see one, it's almost always to cover up hail damage, usually by the dealer.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2019 07:52

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Applebees Appetizer posted:

The 460 is a much better car all around besides the piston slap. But the 430 had the infamous Toyota power steering pump whine so I guess we just traded one noise for another.

Tell me about this. The PS pump in mom's Avalon got really noisy over the course of a couple of months. Initially while cold, now it sounds like an old Ford going down the road.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2019 21:06

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Applebees Appetizer posted:

It's just a common annoying quirk, just like the Ford pumps basically (our Crown Vic did the same thing), Toyota's PS pumps are known to get noisy but AFAIK it's not a sign of anything going wrong.

Good to know. It has mom both freaked out and embarrassed, apparently it's reached beater F-150 levels of sound pretty quickly.

I've just been telling her to run it until the steering feels stiffer, or donate it to her son so he can stop pouring money into a beat up Saturn. :v:

Apparently it's already feeling a little off when cold, but once it warms up it's fine. It's a ~170k Toyota with a 1MZ-FE and the 4 speed Aisin automatic (and it's seen regular fluid changes), it really should run forever so long as she keeps an eye on the oil (it's starting to smoke a bit on cold starts).

# ¿ Feb 19, 2019 07:11

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

How bad do you want to keep OnStar? And what year is this thing again?

The modules to keep the beeps/boops/bloops/chimes and steering wheel controls aren't THAT much (cheap enough that Crutchfield includes them either for free or at a pretty reasonable price). The OnStar module costs a small fortune, but if yours is the older VZW CDMA OnStar, you're SOL on OnStar after the end of the year anyway (VZW is shutting down their 3G CDMA network). The factory XM antenna and receiver (separate from the head unit) aren't really compatible with any aftermarket stuff, though I'm sure you could figure out a way for the antenna to work. The non-OnStar modules will plug right in to an OnStar-equipped vehicle fine, you might get a body code if you have a fancypants scanner.

I'd guess the head unit isn't getting the signal to power down completely, or isn't passing it to the amps (or thinks it's ejecting). It's low speed GM LAN or CAN BUS based; there's usually not a switched +12V on those. 3A is about what it should pull when fully powered on.

FWIW, the aftermarket harnesses... you should be able to find one that doesn't include OnStar, but includes everything else. Should knock a good chunk off. All of the OnStar systems that aren't AT&T LTE based will be dead by the end of this year anyway, and IIRC, yours is the era that's Verizon 3G CDMA based (if it's not AMPS).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Feb 28, 2019

# ¿ Feb 28, 2019 14:57

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

TIL that an Escalade takes the same battery as my Saturn.

Which is trunk mounted and uses vent tubes (and I see the vent tube ports on there).

# ¿ Mar 2, 2019 07:50

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

You would be correct if mine was an 03-05.

06-07 Ions took a 78.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Mar 3, 2019

# ¿ Mar 3, 2019 06:37

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Also chiming in with that's a good price. Stepdad paid more than that for an Aamco rebuild that didn't make it 2k (second made it to 3-4k).

rdb posted:

A 4L60E is probably the most commonly rebuilt transmission (its production run including the 700R4 was over 30 years) and steves transmission shop would be out of business in a hurry if he sucked at rebuilding them.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2019 05:25

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

So does TRD make anything for a 2nd gen Avalon? Will the Camry supercharger kit work? :getin:

I may have one of these land barges in my garage soon. Without any rust.

# ¿ Apr 5, 2019 07:06

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

I was only slightly serious with that post. It'd be awesome to find one, but from what I understand they don't play nice with the dual throttle body 1MZs anyway. :sigh:

And I suspect I'd be replacing a transmission pretty quickly if I went that way. It firms up decently on WOT shifts with stock power, but I'd imagine it'd need a little love before dealing with that kind of power.

# ¿ Apr 6, 2019 08:37

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

QuarkMartial posted:

Does that Escalade have the motor (Northstar?) where the starter is in the "valley" underneath the intake manifold?

Had a guy nearly yell at my brother-in-law who insisted the guy needed an intake manifold gasket to go with his starter replacement on one. Thought he was an idiot parts counter boy. Reluctantly, I'd hope, he later came back to buy the gasket.

NumbersMatching320 already nailed it (usually a 6.0 truck motor), but...

The Northstar was never used in any trucks, and AFAIK, was never used (from the factory) in any RWD applications, except for the supercharged version in the STS-V and XLR-V. Having driven them, I can say they just don't have the low end power that something as big as an Escalade needs. They have plenty of power, but they're a (relatively) smaller displacement DOHC V8, and as such, need a few RPMs to really put out the power.

The LQ9 just walks all over the Northstar when it comes to power, it's a shitload easier to work on (since it's basically a pushrod small block Chevy), and parts are cheaper (because SBC). The Northstar was a great engine (on paper) for its time, and very technologically advanced... but GM has put out some really fantastic pushrod motors over the years. I'm not even sure they currently make an OHC V8 - does anybody know? I'm fairly sure their only OHC motors are 4 bangers at the moment, but I haven't kept up.

And if you're careful, you don't need the intake gasket set. That's assuming you follow some forums and YouTube videos, and don't just dive in; also depends on the year model. You can have them done in a couple of hours if you're careful.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2019 07:19

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

meatpimp posted:

The LQ9, though, is a beast. It moves this 5k pound truck with authority. It's hampered by a terrible transmission, though, that has nothing but wrong gears to pick from right in the middle of the speed/power band ratio where you want it.

This is very much #justgmthings right here. It seems like every automatic they use is parts binned to the point that it doesn't fit any one application properly, and almost always shifts too early. Even their manuals suffer considerably; the final drive in mine is just way too tall for the engine - 5th in mine is really useless below about 50, despite what the angry flashing of the upshift light may be trying to say (it wants me in 5th around 30, which drops me to about 1k... on a 2.2). If I keep it long enough to wear out the clutch, the HHR and Vue trans bolts right in with a shorter final drive (the trans on mine is already shot, 2nd gear synchro is pretty much dead unless I double clutch, and it occasionally pops out of 2nd).

At least tuning software can change the shift points enough to make it a lot better to drive, and a shift kit will firm it up enough that it'll actually last awhile (assuming no other parts go kaboom from the firmer shifts).

# ¿ May 1, 2019 08:37

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

That's loving impressive. Especially because every Honda I see over 3 years old in any kind of gray already has the clear coat flaking.

# ¿ Jul 31, 2019 15:37

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

$1200.

My basketcase Subaru with several years on this was $2000. I hate you so much right now. :v:

# ¿ Oct 26, 2019 19:26

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

But does it have heated rear end and lower back warmers? Does it have the soup of badgeofownership.com badges on it?

Do you wear flannel while driving it?

That's what I thought. :colbert:

So $2000 Subaru is currently sitting at $2150 after a wideband Denso A/F sensor. It'll be $2230 after the new half shaft (before Advance Auto's online 20% coupon anyway), probably $2300 after rotors. Throw in another $60 for a thermostat, thermostat housing (it's plastic, so it'll shatter if I don't have a new one on hand, and be reusable if I do have a new one), and coolant, and it'll be ready for road trips all over North America. It's already been all over the US, western Canada, and northern Mexico...

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Nov 4, 2019

# ¿ Nov 4, 2019 21:39

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

I should do tires just going by age, mine are about 6 years old, but they have at least half of their tread left. I also have some interesting camber in the rear, but the tires seem to wear evenly, so... :iiam:

I just assumed the rear springs were sagging a little, but it may be by design just due to how long and heavy the car is.

It supposedly got new front brake pads very recently, but it was by a brake shop down the road not exactly known for good quality work. Also, given the condition of the rotors (and the paint-shaker effect I get when braking), I don't have a lot of faith in their work. The pedal also feels kinda weird too. It's firm, but it really seems like it takes a lot of effort to bring this thing to a stop. It has 4 wheel disc, and weighs about the same as your Avalon. Mom has an 03 Avalon (so same generation), and it won't even hesitate to throw you through the windshield if you look at the brake pedal funny. This almost takes both feet to engage ABS. They're not spongy at all, they're just... stiff? They feel a lot like the brakes stepdad's 01 F-150 had (from day one).

I'm hoping it's just glazed to hell rotors and lovely brake pads. The fluid looks new, and since the pedal isn't spongy, I highly doubt it's air.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Nov 4, 2019

# ¿ Nov 4, 2019 22:21

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Darchangel posted:

Meanwhile my $600 Outback is up to around $2K, with $600 of struts and springs + 1 control arm bushing, and $700 in tires. Still a pretty good deal. Oh, and $300 in stereo (so far.)

Oh this thing squeaks like a 40 year old college dorm bed during a furious masturbation session when I even hit a pebble (all of the squeaking is in the back too, so it's probably a subframe-out job to fix everything), it pretty much needs all of the bushings. Shockingly, the shocks feel like they're in good shape, but it's got a bit of saggy rear end going.

I'll probably be into it for $3k (not counting tires) once it's all said and done, and be able to drive it a couple of years. I don't really care about the squeaking; it handles like a boat anchor to begin with, but rides well. I should probably do tires sometime in the near future, but more because of age - they have plenty of tread still.

If you count stereo, $150ish, but it's the Kenwood I had in the Saturn... so I guess :10bux:

for the adapter harness. :v:

Just installed much cleaner this time (with one USB port powering the dashcam, the other barely visible where it exits from the side of the center console, and a 3.5mm extension cable plugged into the back and exiting from the same place, so that passengers can play music). Original speakers are in okay shape - no rattling or anything, decent bass, just sound like lovely stock speakers.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Nov 5, 2019

# ¿ Nov 5, 2019 23:21

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

A coworker that bought a $1500 Passat with 260k has learned this.

Thankfully it's just the starter that's sidelined it for now. But it's the 1.8T, when we push started it the dash was a typical high mileage VW Christmas tree, and it has NO power whatsoever (once you get past about 3k it just falls flat on its face). I didn't bother pulling codes; it doesn't seem like it's in limp (it revs to redline... eventually), but a 1.8T 5 speed should be quite a bit quicker than my nearly 2 ton 160 hp Outback. Guessing dead turbo and/or clogged cat, on top of the dead starter, and he got a deer in the headlights look when I asked if he knew when the timing belt was last changed.

I told him to get someone to slap a starter in it and list it for $1500 on Craigslist or FB Marketplace.

# ¿ Nov 21, 2019 06:35

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

meatpimp posted:

The VW is sitting at $2200 right now.

So I'm into it for STR money now.

I think I've spent maybe $50 more, except.... I paid $2k for the car to start with. So I'm only into mine for $300ish in repairs so far. :haw:

O2 sensor ($160), axle ($69), shop time ($70)

Granted, mine still has stuff wrong with it. But nothing that involves electronics or dealers. :v:

Once I get new front rotors and figure out why the gently caress it shakes under throttle (it's either the other front half shaft, or the rear driveshaft... one of these is affordable, one of these is a YOU WANT HOW MANY LIMBS?! part), and replace the transmission cooler rubber lines (one looks like it's gonna snap if I sneeze near it), I think it'll be in good enough shape for short road trips to/from Dallas/Austin and even some wagon-camping.

I plan to be into it for about $3000-3500 total, excluding any maintenance items (plugs, tires, etc) but including stuff like struts and an alignment. Which is still more than I'd like, but I started with a beat up $2k Subaru with working AC, a fresh timing belt, and a new alternator. Then hopefully I can get a couple of years out of it without any major issues. _{_{_{famous last words, for both me, and for cheap subarus}}}

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Nov 23, 2019

# ¿ Nov 23, 2019 20:45

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

# ¿ Nov 23, 2019 22:01

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

I mean.... my car has recent tires if you look at just treadwear.

No rot or anything. But the date code shows they're 4 years old. :stare:

Carfax poo poo shows this thing just didn't get driven much, ever (and mother of god, it pisses from the rear crank seal like it's been sitting for a decade).

# ¿ Nov 26, 2019 21:28

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Lol what the hell is up with that, I've done shitloads of speaker replacements and have never seen rivets.

Let me introduce you to the mid 00s Toyota Corolla/Matrix/Vibe

opengl128 posted:

My Vibe's speakers were riveted in, total pain in the rear end to drill them out.

I rest my case.

# ¿ Dec 11, 2019 01:43

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Lots of cars did back then. I know my 80 F-150 did that.

fake edit: the switch had an internal self-resetting circuit breaker too

real edit: vvvv I think the Ford's was also unfused, hence the built-in circuit breaker.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Dec 17, 2019

# ¿ Dec 17, 2019 05:25

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

meatpimp posted:

Yeah, the difference was that German engineers put in a lovely switch that liked to melt when it had headlight current going through it.

Ford and GM fought over the melting switch patent, trust me. :v:

# ¿ Dec 17, 2019 21:35

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

You've forgotten a few things to get to "service position". :colbert:

# ¿ Mar 25, 2020 20:15

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Only related because :quagmire:

, but there's a local burger place called Dirty Martin's Kum Bak Burgers. :haw:

(affectionately known as Dirty's Kum, or just Dirty's)

They have a Kumbak burger, they also have a Sissy burger. :v:

(the "Dirty" part of the name is because when they originally opened in the 1920s, they had dirt floors, and didn't get rid of them until the 50s)

# ¿ Mar 26, 2020 12:57

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

meatpimp posted:

My son's Avalon hasn't been driven in a month, and when we took it out, we checked the oil and there was nothing on the dipstick. I guess that explains why it hasn't been leaking. Eh, it's a 2000 Toyota, it's fine.

Brokeback told a couple of knock knock jokes on a cold start the other day. Oil light stayed on a bit longer than usual. It was also close to 0F.

Same thing. Nothing on the dipstick. But 1 quart brought it up to the full mark. :iiam:

It holds a little under 4 quarts though; not the 5 qts I'm used to with my last few cars.

# ¿ Feb 22, 2021 19:07

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# ¿ May 10, 2024 21:33

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Holy poo poo. That's an expensive oil change.

# ¿ Feb 23, 2021 16:23

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > I'm meatpimp, and I buy haunted cars.