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Advent Horizon posted:And directional signals! I didn't even realize what directional signals meant. I also wondered what the normal down payment would be. Also what the payment is on the low down payment. I was in full dink around mode today. I ended up taking out this speaker, cleaning and 303 protecting the dash, vacuuming all the sand I could get from the dash, and cleaning up the ends of the convertible top bow. But I think I'll hang it up now. I'm nervous about making my own patches for this for some reason. It'll be really thin gage material and I think I'll be fine but no reason to rush it.   
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May 16, 2021 23:04
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 Starting my next stage of obsession. Hit it with the long block for a baseline.
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May 26, 2021 04:33
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A full day of detail work and some side jobs. The front speaker in this car mounted with two screws on either side of the oval, longways. The replacement had brackets to fit standard 6x9 mounts, but the screws protruded too far to fit. So I ground the heads down and welded the screws to the brackets. It worked great, and now there's a front speaker, the grille is back in, and I covered the dash in masking paper for protection from accidents. I'm accident prone. I screwed in the glove box insert. Minor but I love storing things in there. Put the radiator back in. Tried to start it for ages, it really does not like to fill the fuel bowls on cranking. An electric pump may be in my future. I did get it started and it seems that the alternator doesn't work. I eventually confirmed the wiring is right because the light works when shunted with a resistor per every write up I know. I'll take it to test soon. Sanded on the hood, pulled a couple of dings close, and body filler smooth. I also started on the trunk lid, it's a spare and there's a huge dent in it. The one on the car might be better. My dad is convinced the car trunk is flattened and I just don't see it. Regardless, I worked on that dent for a while and got it close. It's in a double wall section and I can't beat on it, just studs and slide hammer. I thought on putting primer down on the hood but it's just not enough square footage to justify a late night paint setup. I'll lean it up and work on a fender next, smooth it out nicely and spray them together. That fender from the last post looks pretty close and I knocked out the small dent on it, I'll probably spend a couple of weeknights on it. I'm using a new body filler, Rage Evercoat, so far I like it a lot. Smooth, light, no pinholes. Also glad I got the tear-off sheet mixing board, this thing rules.  Cleaned hood  Sanding out scratches and finding what I couldn't see  Remains of studs from pulling dings  Trunk lid dent. Right on the line of course.  The first set of many studs. I had to put my butt on it to hold it down when I slide hammered them out. I really did get it close but I'm not sure if it's worth it. A real pain since I can't get a dolly behind it to hit on it. I think that's it! A good day overall.
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Jun 1, 2021 03:31
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Man, that's impressive. Body work drives me nuts, it's absolutely not my thing.
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Jun 1, 2021 14:38
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kastein posted:Man, that's impressive. Body work drives me nuts, it's absolutely not my thing. Thanks! It's grown on me a lot, with practice. Mentally I'm prepared that I didn't get it perfect yet, when I lay primer on I'll see new features. There were small holes and everything I took down to bare metal will have to come back up. I'd rather seal it with epoxy and put filler on top though. That way if anything happens the filler can't pick up moisture and hold it tight to the metal. There's a lot of writing out there on which way is better, for my home shop this is best for me, since it will seal things up sooner. It's a workout though. My shoulders and arms were beat by the end. Oh I also forgot to mention the hood definitely was resprayed once before. It was black, grey primer, black, red primer, metal. On one hand I would like to take it all down to bare metal. On the other, that paint was tough as nails, it did not want to sand off. If it's adhering that well and solid, I trust it as a base. Edit:also I'm still unhappy with the fender to door alignment on the truck, but I have to accept it as good enough for the farm truck. I think the rubber seal is too big, of course I had to adapt a universal one to work. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 15:17
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A little more goop... A little more elbow grease ...  And a couple shots of epoxy primer.  It's amusing to me, when I had it sanded and ready to paint I looked at it all mottled and still thought "oh yeah this is looking a lot better". The primer will cure for a few days and I'll scuff it up, sand any obvious issues (two that I saw right off) and I might give it a second coat. I might also flip it and work on the bottom side instead of all that. Yeah that sounds better actually. I also need to find a way of storing it safely now, probably hung on the wall. Also the plan is black epoxy, grey primer, black paint. I think black epoxy will help highlight defects, and stand out under grey when I block sand it, and grey is easier to use guide coat on to sand as well.
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Jun 6, 2021 23:42
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No car stuff this weekend but I am having an issue with the Binder in the heat. It seems to be boiling the fuel bowl. Symptom, starts acting up while waiting at a stop light, then bucking when driving and dying. A weird symptom is that the electric fuel pump, located on the frame rail with a few feet of hard line to the tank under the cab, will start clicking. That feels like vapor lock in that first section, but to get the engine restarted I cooled the fuel bowl and line at the motor which were hot to the touch and it started right up. Maybe the vapor in the pressurized line starts pushing back against it? I think I need to re-route my fuel hard line further from the motor, and maybe add a spacer for the carb to get it further from the intake manifold. I snaked the metal fuel line tight through a space that is between a water pipe and the block. I figured it burns enough gas that it wouldnt get too hot, but of course at idle it doesn't move much fuel. Maybe I should heat shield the exhaust under the cab to keep that line cool? I can isolate that issue by putting gas in my driver's side tank and running that, since it's a shorter route. I briefly contemplated adding a bypass regulator and plumbing return lines, my fuel selector module can handle return lines. It was a real pain in the rear end to run them last time for the EFI and I ended up removing them when I went back to carb. And of course that thought led to considering the Holley bolt on EFI but I've overspent my car budget for the year, so maybe in 2024. Anyway, if anyone has advice on this, I'm all ears.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:29
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Dunno if this is advice or just a story. We had a chump car Datsun 240z that kept vaporizing fuel on the track after 45 minutes. Eventually replaced the hard line near the hot stuff with a rubber line. No amount of heat shielding did it for that car but having a line that didn't retain as much heat a did the trick for us.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:44
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Seriously nice work.kastein posted:Man, that's impressive. Body work drives me nuts, it's absolutely not my thing.   I can appreciate good bodywork, and when it’s not done properly it drives me nuts, but gently caress doing it myself.
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Jun 14, 2021 17:09
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Suburban Dad posted:Dunno if this is advice or just a story. We had a chump car Datsun 240z that kept vaporizing fuel on the track after 45 minutes. Eventually replaced the hard line near the hot stuff with a rubber line. No amount of heat shielding did it for that car but having a line that didn't retain as much heat a did the trick for us. Yeah that's good and does help. I recall hemming and hawing over where to run the line, and I wanted maximum steel and minimum rubber, but that could be a good way to isolate the issue while I diagnose it. MrYenko posted:Seriously nice work. Thank you! I agree with you. I give myself more leniency on it since I am just learning. I have been checking this hood over and over and I think it looks great. I have one small ding (super small, like a single light hail dent, no bigger than a dime and maybe as deep as 5 sheets of paper) in the center that I didn't see before, and I think some low spots from sanding areas down that I can build up with primer. Now that it's cured I'm going to flip I think over and clean up the bottom, and seal up with epoxy and an underhood paint finish layer.
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Jun 14, 2021 17:16
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Parts came in. First step, clean the garage.  I picked up a new drop cloth to replace a menagerie of old sheets and blankets.  OK now with that sorted.. Peel it back and get to work. The old drum brakes were fine probably but not great. The single circuit brake was objectively dangerous, and no booster was lame for a big body like this. I got a set of disc brakes, dual circuit master and a booster from Master Power. Expensive. I wanted something that *just worked*, and I'm quite impressed with this kit so far. It bolted on perfectly, and had clear instructions, and plenty of parts to connect to the stock setup. First, off come the old drums and backing plate. I had already gone thru these with new springs and fixed some janky setup that was done in here. It was super clean and easy.    I must have made a poor connection to the old wheel cylinder, it was leaking from here only.  New brackets, I like that it uses this upper bolt that the wheel cylinder was attached to. It seems super strong.  And assembled. The first side took maybe an hour 45, the other side just an hour since I had tools out and knew wtf I was doing.  Now here's the old master. The thing on the front is a pressure activated brake light switch, and I'm going to use it for now. Some of these cars did have power brakes so the mounting bolts are there and ready.  Old vs new. The new one has a lever in it to... Idk shorten or lengthen the throw. It works great in the car, connected easy and had a good feel on the downstroke even dry.  This cheap bender works fantastic for copper nickel line. I am replacing all hard line on the car.  That bend in place. Worked exactly.  I pulled the rear brake line but haven't replaced it yet. There was a huge kink in it. I'll replace with 1/4" line which isn't necessary, it's more for peace of mind. The rear outlet is big on the valve and can take it, and the 1/4" will go back to 3/16 on the rear axle junction. It's such a long run that it feels right to do, and I had to replace the full length anyway.   That kink was SHARP too. Just beat to a point somehow. Part of why I'm replacing all hard-line. This fluid was two years old and not used in regular service.  Brake switch in position, pipe routed around the incoming steering box.  I overestimated the length on this run, so it gets a loop.  That's a front half completed. Brake line for the rear and junction and a new hose are on the way for next time. I'm going to route that line before I mount this steering box. Then I can hookup the Hoses, modify my steering shaft, and get the wheel mounted. I also got some new interior goodies in the mail to put on while I wait.
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Jun 27, 2021 22:13
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If you can find a retrofit kit that gives you a mechanical switch on the pedal, I recommend going to that. Old pressure style switches are known for popping out and dumping fluid. At least on my old car.
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Jun 29, 2021 17:14
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LloydDobler posted:If you can find a retrofit kit that gives you a mechanical switch on the pedal, I recommend going to that. Old pressure style switches are known for popping out and dumping fluid. At least on my old car. That sounds bad. Also it seems hokey to use the pressure to trigger it when there are a few plunger switches around the car. I just ordered one and I'll goddamn figure out how to rig it up. And it'll eliminate three threaded connections, aka three failure points.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:07
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ive replaced the fluid pressure one on my truck twice now. luckily its only been a slow leak that caused the switch to stop working, not a catastrophic failure that leads to nonfunctional brakes. amusingly, amc used ford-style pressure switches on the automatic javelins, and chevy-style pedal switches on the manuals. why they wanted two versions of the harness and mounting apparatus and all that is beyond me
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Jun 30, 2021 05:40
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I tried to take the Binder to the Golden Super Cruise but it's still having heat issues despite me running a new fuel line from the frame rail up to the carb. When I disconnected that line it started spitting, that MF was hot. I think there's some braided stainless somewhere that I can sub in and I think that'll solve the heating... I realized my bigger issue is the line I ran inside the frame rail, it's getting too much radiation from the exhaust manifold. Stock went along the outside of the inner fender, so that's a risk from wheel damage but a lot cooler. I miiiight get some more line and run it more like that, but I'm not excited to bend more steel line, that poo poo kinks when I look at it funny. Driving down and seeing everyone's rides was making me a little sad, then I saw a beautiful 64 Galaxie convertible. I'm not going with these wheels but the tire size is perfect. I chatted with the owner for 20 minutes or so. Not sure if I learned much that helps me but it was a great time talking to him and his son about the car. He put a 428 in it, three on the tree, and factory air. Which is so strange, it's not an XL and it's a convertible. 
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Jul 4, 2021 04:08
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Have you tried putting a spacer between the carb and manifold? poo poo works.
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Jul 4, 2021 04:14
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Elmnt80 posted:Have you tried putting a spacer between the carb and manifold? poo poo works. It's on the list! Literally the whole hard line is hot as hell. When I disconnected it and it started spitting boiling hot gasoline out of the end I knew it was probably the main problem or equal level concern since there's a rubber hose from the carb to the hard line which should insulate it from hot manifold issues. Edit, also when I pulled the vertical hard section out not a single drop came out of the bottom, it was boiled dry by then.
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Jul 4, 2021 05:12
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Elmnt80 posted:Have you tried putting a spacer between the carb and manifold? poo poo works. This should be obvious, but make sure it’s a phenolic spacer and not an aluminum one.  Also, is the fuel hard line touching (or close to) anything else hot in its routing? You’d be suprised how far away the heat source might be with aluminum tube.
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Jul 4, 2021 14:47
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MrYenko posted:This should be obvious, but make sure it’s a phenolic spacer and not an aluminum one. I was shocked how hot the power steering pump is, and it's right by that. It's steel line for the record. It also runs long ways across the frame rail right by that exhaust manifold.
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Jul 4, 2021 19:36
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Ya, steel’s going to transmit less heat than aluminum, but it might still be an issue. You could try rerouting it, or just temporarily bypass it with a long piece of rubber fuel line and see if that fixes your issue before you go through the labor of rerouting the hard line. If it’s just a single hotspot, you can wrap it with header tape or something, and that should fix you up.
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Jul 4, 2021 20:08
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And I just spotted some of the extra rubber I used to make the skirt portions of the fender. If it was all I had to do I'd probably use that as a heat shield, but I've got other goals. I'll bend up a line and run it in a new place and it'll be sorted once and for all. It's not like I've got anywhere to be now lol.
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Jul 4, 2021 22:42
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This weekend just a couple of things and all good. I got some new lenses and trim rings for the instrument cluster. Zipped that all back together, figured out which bulbs go in which slots, and put it back in the dash. I replaced every bulb of course.  Then I crawled around and replaced brake lines. 1/4" from the combination valve back to the hose, a new hose (for a Pinto) with 7/16 fittings, to a splitter block to new copper nickel 3/16 brake lines to the wheel cylinders. Those are only a couple years old. Here's the hairy end of the brake line as I was running it, with the old one for bend reference.  So the brake system is complete again. I'm just smart enough to know not to bother bleeding it yet, I'll wait until I'm ready to get it moving. I picked up a lever switch I was sure would work for the brake lights, but that won't work, it's wrong handed. After looking at it a while I'm going to make a bracket and use an adjustable plunger switch. I'll have to check and make sure I don't have a steering column conflict too, it might be tighter than I think. It's always tough planning these things when parts are missing and it's not clear what clearance issues are here. I also mounted the steering box, and ran the hoses, and put the drag link on. It's connected to everything but the column. I clearanced the frame a little to make it fit and it all looked good. Then I sat inside, and see it's not centered in the right place. The instructions do say I may need to shim the bottom front bolt, and that should kick the top over where I want it. All of the bolts though are barely as long as they need to be. I should pull one and get some 1/4" longer. None of them came with washers either which I find weird, and I grabbed some from the bin. It's a tough thing to mount since there's a little bit of adjustment available in the mount but it's also heavy, so it wants to mount low. Anyway that's a long paragraph to say the inside is in the wrong place and I'm not sure if it can be easily fixed. But I'm hopeful! The steering column itself has to be shortened and profiled to fit in the new rag joint. Which scares me a little, I did notice today the column is slotted, so I have more forgiveness than I thought. I will need to use a bench grinder to do this, it's just putting two flats into it. Maybe easier with a angle grinder and the shaft in the vice? Certainly easier if I had a friend to mill it!
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Jul 6, 2021 01:27
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I'm real lost on this truck. I think my next step is to try the phenolic spacer yall been talking about. I ran a new hard line outside of the inner fender, and all rubber inside the engine bay. It'll run and idle continously, and it'll go through waves of the electric fuel pump clicking at me. I also filled the drivers side tank with pure gas (ethanol free) and same problem. Temp gun reads like 140-150 on the fuel bowl, same as the line in the wheel well. It's pretty drat hot out here, 95 I think today. I must have been avoiding this problem by having super cold gas in the wintertime and cold air temps. In all my years it hasn't done this before, but this is the first time with the electric fuel pump... Feeling like I should have stuck with the mechanical one! And I still have that mechanical one, it just feels like a lot of plumbing to get it in, and at that point I'd consider a bypass regulator, especially since my tank selector supports fuel return too. Someone give me a vote for this solution so I can order the parts lol. Edit: even a vote for the ol mechanical fuel pump and I'll swap that back in. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jul 17, 2021 |
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Jul 17, 2021 21:55
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Seriously, try a spacer. They work.
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Jul 17, 2021 22:05
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Elmnt80 posted:Seriously, try a spacer. They work. Why do they have to be so expensive! Edit: I ordered it.
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Jul 17, 2021 22:14
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Phenolic spacer, effective at keeping the carb cooler, fuel isn't boiling here anymore. The air filter now hits the hood, so I'll replace it with a low profile model. However it did not solve the problem. I had a couple spare fuel filters, so I replaced them and replaced a couple of spring clips with worm gears. Did not solve the problem. I noticed the fuel pump was very hot, so I wrapped the section of exhaust pipe next to it. I didn't buy the high end wrap, and when it's warm it's hot but not burning my hand hot, and I think it reduces the radiation quite a bit. Did not solve the problem. I still think it's overheating that's my issue, but now I think it's overheating the pump, and I can't find a way to keep it cool enough. It would probably stay cooler if it was moving cold gas as it did when I drove it in the winter and spring. Or when it's moving a lot of fuel constantly like in my drive to Golden. Stopping and idling seems to kill it every time. I'm going to say goodbye to the clicky clacky pump. Route some vinyl fuel line over the hump, route some steel line to the mechanical pump, and a new line from pump to carb in the stock location. Worst case is that I find out I have some kind of air gap that opens up when it's hot, like from the tank or similar. I think those odds are low, since those are all fresh rubber that I used good clips on. And the issue is the same on both tanks, what's the chances I screwed that up twice. In other news, I dropped a new battery in it since I've had to jump it quite often. The old one was from 2013, and I've been wearing it down a lot cranking it often. Cranks much faster now.
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Aug 2, 2021 00:27
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OK and now for car stuff. It's minor, sometimes a little progress helps kick off momentum! I'm putting in a pressure switch for the brake lights so I can ditch the hydraulic one. I fabricated a little bracket here. Waiting to get my drill press back online to drill holes in it.   This is made of 16 ga. and I realized there's no much pressure on it, so I'll probably cut it into an L shape which will be a lot easier to mount. It's pretty strong, and if anything happens I could put a little gusset on it. Since the hydro switch was under the hood and this one is inside, there's a bit of wiring modification to do. First we grab the manual.  Pop the bulkhead connectors off, unwrap, and create a colorblind mechanics nightmare. I spliced in my wire and I'll trim it to length. I was fortunate to have green although it's obviously the wrong green. I'm exclusively using uninsulated connectors because they're easier to crimp with the ign slot on my combo stripper crimper, and I even remembered to put heatshrink on first.  Looks like I'm in the market for wire wrap, good thing I just learned a bunch in Darchs thread.
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Aug 2, 2021 04:36
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Here's how a guy can check his brake light switch works without a buddy. I got my little bracket made up and installed. It was a bit misaligned but I gave it a little tweak and it's all good. I nearly put it too far back, I'm about two turns away from bottoming this switch out. In a weird case of good fortune, it's far enough back that I can drill new holes if I need. Here's the bracket and switch, I failed to get an installed pic.  After that I went ahead and mounted the steering box for what should be the last time (uh oh) and hooked up some brake lines. This should all be able to be filled in but again I am smart enough to leave them dry for a minute. Next up I need to build my own kick down rod and I have almost no reference photos. I've given a look through everything I got and no luck on the actual part. So probably I'll make one that works and then find it. I'm a three dimensional thinker but this thing has me confused. It might be an all day project. Also next up I need to cut and profile the steering shaft, which I've practiced on once and it came out great so I'm feeling good about my next try. The hardest part will be measuring the length, thankfully there is some play in it.
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Aug 15, 2021 01:58
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Still afraid of cutting my steering shaft, so I prepped and painted the underside of my hood. It had a bunch of high buld primer over sprayed on it that I mostly sanded off before I got tired. So today I finished up the sanding, cleaned, epoxy primer and underhood black on it. Underhood black is a low sheen paint, I think 30% gloss. I'll be putting insulation under here too, so I wasn't concerned about the low lying areas. Now I just need to hang it up and protect it for a while. Black primer.  Painted.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:47
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I made it over a hump. First a diversion, I've been watching too much YouTube and had too much cash in the bank apparently so I ordered a Pertronix unit for the distributor. I went with the Ignitor 2, seemed like just a bit nicer for not much more money. If nothing else, reverse polarity protection is cheap insurance. Poured a little gas down the carb and it fired right up, so that was an easy success. Then I finally did it. Measured up the steering shaft and decided it needed to be 2-3/4" shorter.  Cut the end off, profiled it. I think this is a double D? Great profile name. Had to cut down the tube too since it interfered with the rag joint.   Now I've got to fiddle with the mount at the base of the tube too. But it got late! Next week. I also vacuumed it out a bit, and tidied up. Next up, hood insulation is in the mail, and soundproofing for the floor. I'm not expecting much soundproofing from either but I want the mass to the sheet metal. I always think that makes a car feel nicer. I've also had a spur of excitement hit me too when I listed out what is next. The brakes just need fluid, that's it. I replaced all of the lines! That's huge and satisfying. The rear wheel cylinders are the only part that's older and that's a couple years is all. I'm almost done with this steering. I know what I'm doing I think. My medium term goal will be to get it to a place that I can drive it around and actually shake it down. I'll probably even put the worn out interior in it for fun.
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Aug 28, 2021 04:42
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StormDrain posted:I know what I'm doing I think. Feeling this most days. Nice progress.
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Aug 28, 2021 04:51
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Suburban Dad posted:Feeling this most days. Thank you! I had a nice camping trip, came back and my insulation had come in the mail. Is there a spray adhesive shortage? Both Lowes and home depot were cleared out, got some gorilla brand at Ace.  I wrapped the hood up with some bubble wrap and stretch wrap. I'm going to store it in the basement to get it out of my way.
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Aug 30, 2021 02:59
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StormDrain posted:Is there a spray adhesive shortage? Both Lowes and home depot were cleared out, got some gorilla brand at Ace. Yes, 3M has a supply disruption and can't supply anyone with it right now
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Aug 30, 2021 15:11
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Goddamn truck died again, no fuel. This is with a mechanical fuel pump. Off the good tank too! It's been starting easy and doing short trips no problem, got it hot and it died as I pulled into a car wash. I'm about ready to hang a fuel cell on the flatbed and run just one good tank, with the coolest possible routing.
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Sep 5, 2021 01:52
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Car stuff! Good advice for anyone undertaking a restoration. It's not a straight line. Parts go in and come off. Emptied the cabin today. Seats out, console out, wires disconnected and coiled up. My standard of quality now from where I started has improved. Lots of wires to the back had been sitting in hydraulic oil for a while before I cleaned it up, the cotton looms on these were shot. Thankfully I found one new section in the drawer, and the rest is in good shape. The trunk courtesy light is a single wire all the way back from the dash and it had a jacket so I'll give it a fresh one too. Side note, it took me a few minutes to determine what that wire even was, it was painted a bit, faded a bit, and green/yellow which is a pain in the rear end for a colorblind guy. The wiring diagram labels it as a courtesy lamp, it might not be for the trunk, but if not idk where it goes. Convertibles get a courtesy light in each door, one under the dash and this other one. Maybe it goes on the top somehow! The wire is very long and can reach the trunk though so that's my suspicion. I also spent a while researching the throttle kick down rod again. The good news is it looks simpler than I thought. The bad news is I don't have one and can't find one. I can definitely make one and it's going to be a multi hour project due to the tolerance. Or I'll make an adjustable one. Or I'll try and fail a few times I don't know. Also the transmission is leaking bad. I poked around and I'm going with the theory that it was dry for so long the gasket for the pan was no good. For six bucks I'll give it a shot. Also spotted a drop at the selection lever point so I'll replace that seal too. Can't hurt. Speaking of transmission, the boot was ripped and has gone from pliable to solid. I just paid way too much for a new one. Also note the divider here, both sides had been welded and broke right at the top of the hump in the center, they're welded again.     
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Sep 6, 2021 01:43
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Posting again with some philosophy. One other thing I did today was cut a little piece of rubber as a top radiator mount. It was dead easy, took a couple of minutes and fit perfectly. I'm trying to move slowly. I like to rush and knock things out and be productive, and I get frustrated with slow processes. Lately I've been leaning against the car, looking at things. There's a lot of loose ends and that's a thing I like because I always have another outlet when I get frustrated. This weekend has been about the most relaxed I've been in a long time. I have no commitments that I can't break. I napped. And I cleared up some loose ends. I noticed the loose sheet metal years ago, and I knew what I needed to do, but there was no urgency or need. Finally I had a reason to do it, and it was easy and quick. Hell I even checked the metal thickness to set up the voltage instead of guessing. Taking my time rules. I'd like to be done in a couple of years. I also want to be proud of the work. My pride and enjoyment are taking the front seat right now. Let's make a short list for the next season: Lizard Skin the cabin floor. Address transmission leaks. Mount the base plate for the steering tube. Bodywork on the fenders. That should be enough. If I get lucky the wheels will arrive and I can put it back on the ground. Actually this might be the closest thing I have to a need. When the snow starts flying someone will want their parking spot back.
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Sep 6, 2021 03:00
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StormDrain posted:
Is this some sort of textured coating or are you going to upholster your floor in alligator skin?
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Sep 7, 2021 12:12
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It's sound deadening without using those mats: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/LizardSkin-Ceramic-Sound-Control-Application-Kit,421984.html Although alligator skin upholstery sounds cool
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Sep 7, 2021 12:47
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Yeah that's the stuff! There's a bit of asphalt sheet stuck to a couple of spots in the cabin, I like the idea of the consistent coating that a spray provides. I'll also put some dynamat over the hump to replace what I just took out, and probably more for the rest of the floor, doors etc. It's a substantial car, I want it to feel substantial. No tinny sheet metal or road sounds coming up.
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Sep 7, 2021 15:32
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| # ? May 6, 2024 09:35 |
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Floor and doors done. It's a nice feeling to have this cabin cleaned the hell out. Epoxy primer on the floor and topped with Lizard Skin. It required more air than my pancake could produce so I borrowed a 1.75HP 20 gallon air compressor from my neighbor and it was still more air than it could provide, but better. Enough that I could get a door done or a quadrant of the car floor and let it recharge. I think with the higher air pressure I actually sprayed it a little thin, I checked with the gauge and it was thin so I suppose I know that. After two coats though it should be right.  I was not aware it sprays on purple and dries to charcoal.   I wasn't even going to spray the doors, but I had so much material. I prepped them Saturday and sprayed epoxy, then the deadener on Sunday. I taped off the crank and motor, and removed the rod for the handle. The difference when I tap on them isn't much, but it is improved. Everything helps I say to myself, and worst case, the doors were dirty and now they're clean.  Also not pictured, new plug wires to go with the electronic ignition. I didn't realize at first that I needed different wires, these are spiral core EFI shielded. Next up, my shifter boot should be in the mail, and there's a hole in the floor that didn't have a plug in it, so I'll pop that in. More importantly I have gaskets coming in for the transmission that I'll replace, and if I have time I'll try to fab up a kick down rod out of 1/4" stock.
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Sep 13, 2021 15:09
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