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Why do you need 5 gallons? That's 10 gallons of mixed... unless you're buying premix, don't buy premix.
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Sep 2, 2018 16:05
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EVERYWHERE 
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Seminal Flu posted:Why do you need 5 gallons? That's 10 gallons of mixed... unless you're buying premix, don't buy premix. Seconding this. Two gallons of full strength, two gallons of distilled water, bet that gets you drat near full.
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Sep 2, 2018 16:13
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True, it’s 20 quarts full capacity and bone dry, which is 5 gallons. Generally I’ve found 3 gallons to be the tipping point where the larger pail is a cheaper deal. Picked it up at Murdoch’s for $10 per gallon of concentrate, got three and that leaves a spare for the trunk.
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Sep 2, 2018 18:09
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Oh god I forgot how painful filling an empty system could be. 3 quarts in and blob blub, had to wait for it to get in there. Pumped it a little with the hoses and moved onto another task. I painted the headlight brackets, muffler bracket, and hood brackets with epoxy paint.
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Sep 2, 2018 21:59
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That vacuum line that goes to the trans is important. Its the modulator and it controls the line pressure, it shifts way better with it attached. On my 66 Galaxie it was adjustable with an Allen wrench through the vacuum port and you can make the shifts more firm with it.
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Sep 2, 2018 22:25
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Good to know! Sometimes I wish I was going to Boaz McPherson route and clean up the finishes, upholstery and all that, but drat I got to hear that engine run before that even gets touched.
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Sep 2, 2018 23:14
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To be fair, I was able to drive mine home so I'd already heard it  . I then proceeded to go nuts and rip everything apart. I haven't touched the engine outside of fluid and filters since I bought it. I have no intention of throwing actual money at a small-block that will eventually be getting replaced.
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Sep 3, 2018 01:03
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Ugh this goddamn poo poo. This is a warning to everyone thinking of finishing someone else’s project. Most bags and cans have labels but this one did not. Somehow I figured out it had screws for the front end sheet metal and trim, and I mounted the headlight brackets. Then sorted and put the rest of the fasteners in a parts organizer.
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Sep 4, 2018 00:58
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Today’s goal, fill the brakes. It was not met. I built a cap for my pressure bleeder today, using a new one I purchased. Some brass fittings, o rings, washers and it went together easily. I then noticed the cap has a hole in it, which matches the one on the car too, and I filled it with epoxy putty. Great stuff that is. I also had to cut a thick rubber washer to get a seal between the cap and the reservoir. I stood on the cap at one point and was able to maintain 10psi with my body weight holding the cap to a rubber sheet. There was a ton of learning between starting and finishing but that part went fine and took about 30 minutes. So that’s sorted, and it could have gone smoothly from there.  Here’s one of the first ways I screwed up. When I put pressure on this very first fitting leaked. The connector was a bit rounded from the get go and I figured the bend there was hindering a seal, so I made a new line up. It looks much nicer and was worth the effort. It took as long to get the bottom fitting undone as it did to make a new one, but whatever.  When I was installing the new line to the master though I noticed there was no stop for the line. It came to me with a plug mounted in an adapter that I took off, turns out the adapter is the mating surface for the line. Dumb! Put that on and it took more pressure, but once I hit about 10psi it drops. I checked all the other fittings and at the bleeders but none of them make bubbles. I wonder if it’s a wheel cylinder? Considering they’ve been dry for this whole time it seems likely. I was able to hold 10psi with my finger over the output of the master so I can eliminate that at least. I did get my shift linkage hooked up properly. I think that’ll need some adjustment, but it works. I’ll know more when it’s moving under it’s own power I think, and I should look at the mechanism below the trim plate inside. I’d better chock the wheels though before I reverse it into my toolbox. I also dropped the fuel tank, there were rubber strips on the sides of it to isolate it from the body, but originally it had an insulation blanket just in the middle. I think that’s my problem with aligning the gas cap. I didn’t put it back up though because I can not get that cap on! It’s killing me. The step in the lip for the cam to ride in has a 3/8 hump, the cam to rubber is only 1/4. If it was ANYTHING else I’d dremel off a little piece but I can’t do that. It’s so confusing since it is the original tank and the original cap. It’s much easier to mess with that while the tank is dropped so that where it stays for now.
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Sep 9, 2018 03:57
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Try removing all the bleeders and giving it a good pedal pump after a gravity bleed. Should push most of the crap out!
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Sep 10, 2018 13:01
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First of all let’s appreciate this drum brake. This is like the instructional model right off the line.  Second, I confirmed that I’m losing air at least at this cylinder. It’s Monday night and I am not going so hard as to look at all of them. There’s a part of me that says, fill with brake fluid and see if it seals up, and another part that says that’s dumb confirm these aren’t dried out or damaged first while it’s dry. I’m gonna listen to the second voice, the reward isn’t enough for that risk. I’ll check out the other three corners this week or weekend and see if I’m losing air on any of the others then more investigation. Like most people I hate taking apart drum brakes but I’ll get over it. 
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Sep 11, 2018 04:26
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Kaptainballistik posted:Try removing all the bleeders and giving it a good pedal pump after a gravity bleed. Hey I forgot to reply. There’s no crap in here at all actually, just air. Everything is new or rebuilt and hasn’t yet seen a drop of fluid. After pulling the axles on the international and replacing brake lines I’ve done every method of bleeding, the motive pressure bleeder was the clear winner for me. The feeling of watching a tube of brake fluid go from rusty to clear without getting up, without squeezing a vacuum and getting tiny air bubbles from the nipple, without the coordination of a friend pushing the pedal, or the unknown of having to check the speed bleeder was awesome. Then you give a few pumps and go to the next wheel and it’s three steps, hook up the wrench and hose, watch it, tighten it.
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Sep 11, 2018 04:33
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I would very much recommend replacing the master cylinder with one from a '68. That fruit-jar single circuit one can be dangerous as hell.
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Sep 12, 2018 03:59
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wallaka posted:I would very much recommend replacing the master cylinder with one from a '68. That fruit-jar single circuit one can be dangerous as hell. It’s crossed my mind but it’s not on the immediate list. I know I’m not talented enough to get that done properly right now, and I don’t want that failure sidelining me while I sort out the rest. I should have enough time after I get it moving stock and while I save money for the paint job to do that though.
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Sep 12, 2018 04:30
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Good news and scary news today. Good news, passenger front wheel cylinder doesn’t leak air. Scary news (but actually lucky), this side had a Cotter pin in the nut holding the drum and ultimately the wheel in place, the drivers side did not. I had no other reason but this leaky wheel cylinder to check. It was finger tight. Tomorrow I’m getting another set of jacks so I can throw that rear end in the air and check the rear brakes and see if I need 1,2 or 3 new wheel cylinders. I probably won’t share the wheel nut deal with pops, for his sanity’s sake.
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Sep 15, 2018 01:48
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It's been a long time since I've dealt with front drums, but the actual torque specs for the tapered bearings on the front discs for both my C10 and Ranger (which actually use at least one of the same bearings, ha) are just barely snug enough to load the bearing. Which usually ends up being pretty light and easily undone when the pin is pulled.
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Sep 15, 2018 02:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's been a long time since I've dealt with front drums, but the actual torque specs for the tapered bearings on the front discs for both my C10 and Ranger (which actually use at least one of the same bearings, ha) are just barely snug enough to load the bearing. Which usually ends up being pretty light and easily undone when the pin is pulled. That makes sense. I’ll look it up before they go back in. The important takeaway was the lack of a pin. The preload on the International was like 50ft lbs and then back it off a quarter turn until the locking washer lines up. Very satisfying procedure.
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Sep 15, 2018 03:53
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I misread that as "the only thing holding it on was a pin", not "there wasn't a pin" 
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Sep 15, 2018 03:56
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If those wheel cylinders aren't crazy expensive, it might be worth the peace of mind to just replace all four. If only a couple have crapped out, what's to say the others aren't far behind? My thoughts are that brakes aren't really something you want to half-rear end.
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Sep 15, 2018 04:07
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When I took off the drivers side I though oh what a weird nut, but it’s fine threads it guess that stays on fine. Then tonight I got the cap off the other side and saw the Cotter pin and thought oh poo poo.
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Sep 15, 2018 04:37
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:If those wheel cylinders aren't crazy expensive, it might be worth the peace of mind to just replace all four. If only a couple have crapped out, what's to say the others aren't far behind? My thoughts are that brakes aren't really something you want to half-rear end. Gosh drat you.
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Sep 15, 2018 04:37
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StormDrain posted:Good news and scary news today. Bearing preload procedure for the front is tighten the nut while spinning the drum. When the drum slows, back off the nut until it turns free. Install cotter pin.
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Sep 15, 2018 05:02
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wallaka posted:Bearing preload procedure for the front is tighten the nut while spinning the drum. When the drum slows, back off the nut until it turns free. Install cotter pin. Tighten nut while spinning the wheel, as tight as you can. Back off half a turn, then snug it down again while spinning the wheel. Back the nut off 1/6 turn, plus or minus whatever you need to get the cotter pin to line up (if it's a 3/4-16 you can replace the nut with the kind with the sheet metal cap for the cotter pin, to give yourself additional positions where it lines up. maybe other sizes too) At least that's how I was taught in high school autoshop, and it's what I've done since then 
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Sep 15, 2018 09:12
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StormDrain posted:Gosh drat you. Hey man, I'm just throwing out ideas. I never said they were good ones.
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Sep 15, 2018 16:40
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Hey man, I'm just throwing out ideas. I never said they were good ones. The problem is they’re so objectively correct. Old rubber sucks, and with the single pot master I should focus on getting them all perfect for piece of mind. Goal of the car is to be a comfortable cruiser and if I’m stressing on the pedal feel then it’s not comfortable! Ugh that they’re $20 each in the front but whew that they’re under $10 in the back. Worth the effort even though drums are a pain. It’s lessened due to them being dry and clean though. Thanks for the bearing torque tips to the rest of ya!
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Sep 16, 2018 00:22
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StormDrain posted:The problem is they’re so objectively correct. Old rubber sucks, and with the single pot master I should focus on getting them all perfect for piece of mind. Goal of the car is to be a comfortable cruiser and if I’m stressing on the pedal feel then it’s not comfortable! Ugh that they’re $20 each in the front but whew that they’re under $10 in the back. Worth the effort even though drums are a pain. It’s lessened due to them being dry and clean though. poo poo, if you can get new cylinders all around for $60, I'd say that's a good buy. I had 4 drums on my old Nova and with new shoes and cylinders all around, they felt pretty good. Doing the rears will give you a good excuse to change the diff fluid as well assuming you have to pull the axles.
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Sep 16, 2018 03:23
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I’m all for try it and see... even on brakes!
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Sep 16, 2018 11:29
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...says the rally driver.
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Sep 16, 2018 18:32
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:...says the rally driver. Seems legit.
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Sep 16, 2018 21:49
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You’ve got to laugh sometimes, and never take anything for granted. I put in the new front brake cylinders today, not a bad evening job and it took about two hours. The brakes have nice clean hardware and none of it has been used to stop the car so it was pretty clean and I struggled with the springs as usual but remembered and looked up some tricks. Drivers side was first since I had seen it leaking air, but after I hooked it up I still couldn’t get the pressure bleeder to hold pressure. I did the soap again and had a tiny leak at the hose to cylinder and a leak at the cap where the fitting connected, so I tightened both. It still lost pressure and I could hear it a little. So I soldiered on to the passenger side which went a lot faster. This side never showed signs of leaking but I gave it some soap just to check if my connections looked good. It was perfect! The whole brake circuit holds air pressure at 15psi. I left it on so I could follow up in an hour and see. When I was putting the passenger side back together though, I noticed the adjuster was stamped with an “L”. I would expect it to be an “R”. So I checked the diagram.    Springs are different, and there’s no levers for the adjusters. So it looks like some hardware kits are in my future. I suspect these are all the right springs in all the wrong places and no cables for the adjusters, but I’m gonna start over fresh. They’re hilariously inexpensive.
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Sep 21, 2018 03:35
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Could the factory have abandoned auto adjusters some time during production and just changed the design? I get that the forward top spring is different, and that all old springs should be replaced anyway. But the bottom spring type and lack of adjusting lever (and lack of that cable), is how most of my old old drums brakes were. I think some types of more "modern" drum brakes were self adjusting (I think with park brake or in driving in reverse), but the old 70s basic type is manual adjust, and that's what it seems you have - a different type of bottom spring to hold the manual adjustment wheel. The first pic of yours (rear?) the bottom spring is all hosed up and not interfering with the adjustment wheel though so it's no good. But otherwise besides out of shape springs that is a legit manual adjustment setup. I wonder if the self adjustment setup was either optional, removed by a PO (because it sucked), or removed by a mechanic because parts NOLA? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Sep 21, 2018 |
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Sep 21, 2018 12:31
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Fo3 posted:Could the factory have abandoned auto adjusters some time during production and just changed the design? If I had to guess I’d say a PO, likely the Carson City Motor Pool changed it because they didn’t care to do it right, or my Dad had all the parts off and no reference photos and guessed. The reference photos I found online all match the diagram, and parts are available, so I’m going to try to make a match.
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Sep 21, 2018 15:23
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Yeah I don't think any manufacturer would ever eliminate automatic adjusters.
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Sep 21, 2018 15:40
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Man, gently caress drums.
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Sep 21, 2018 19:35
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Larrymer posted:Man, gently caress drums. That was me after “finishing” the first two. I may take the others apart and swap the cylinders tonight. I was really thinking that when a spring went on wrong and I had to undo it and then it flew a few feet. I of course was wearing safety glasses.
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Sep 21, 2018 21:28
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I keep wanting to replace the rear brakes on my C10 with discs but I keep looking at them and then going deep into the "while I'm at it" rabbit hole and suddenly my shopping cart is at $creditlimit so I close the tab.
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Sep 21, 2018 22:02
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"StormDrain" posted:I suspect these are all the right springs in all the wrong places and no cables for the adjusters, but I’m gonna start over fresh. They’re hilariously inexpensive. I'll agree with this.
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Sep 22, 2018 04:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:Seems legit. Compression braking is life 😂
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Sep 22, 2018 06:26
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I spent a couple of weekends with plenty of time and no parts. Now I have parts and no time. Mufflers came in, brake parts came in. I even took a shot on a new fuel cap that fits perfectly. Then the weather goes into a hard Denver fall, family comes to visit, we’re throwing a mystery party, a Broncos game with family... I am pretty stoked about that gas cap though. It means I can put the tank back in. Then I’ll put the brakes together, and on down the line.
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Oct 12, 2018 05:17
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I went through similar issues with the drums on the rear of my Fairmont. I opened them up and compared to the picture, someone had removed all of the automatic adjuster parts. All the adjusters did for me was overtighten the shoes. I could never get my drums right, so I'm swapping to discs (6 years of annoying me). The pedal feel was pretty much entirely based on the adjustment on the rears plus they lock up at anything more than light braking. In conclusion, from both me and my flat spotted tyres, gently caress drum brakes.
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Oct 12, 2018 05:57
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