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President Beep posted:Yep, returns at all speeds. When yours still sticks, are you able to manually trip the return via the little lever that the lug hits? If not, then the page I referenced says to look elsewhere for problems. I look back and laugh now about the pulley and string coming off, but the feeling at the time was dreadful. In hindsight, once I did get it back in place it seemed pretty straightforward... Yeah if I trip the lever it works at all speeds. When I was adjusting my shutter timing I noticed that the shutter curtains move slower at slower shutter speeds for some reason, which means less force impacting the lever, don't know why it would do that though. Also as I posted here already never trip the lever without having fired the shutter off first, completely locked the camera up and tool me ages to figure out (not sure how I even fixed it).
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Nov 13, 2018 18:34
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Hoo, boy. Not sure what the deal could be there. Could something dragging the shutter mechanism be affecting the gear speed/force? I assume the former somehow regulates the latter.
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Nov 13, 2018 20:09
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Trying to take apart a Vivitar 28mm f/2.5 lens to get some fungus off of the inside of the front element, but the group won’t come apart. Looks like the drat thin’s been soldered together. Before I throw caution to the wind and take a hot iron to it, does anyone have any additional input? There’s a similar plug on the other side, and the metal is very soft.
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Nov 23, 2018 16:49
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Its probably just held in with an adhesive or lacquer. Dribble some some isoprop into the joint and let it sit for a bit. Up that to acetone if you need to but it might stain or damage the paint if that matters to you. Edit: Those might not come apart. If you look at the front element is there a retaining ring holding it in?
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Nov 23, 2018 18:07
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Ah, cool. Thanks a bunch. I’ll try that first. There’s only the one ring on the outside, but there is another on the inside of the assembly, beneath the front element. That’s what leads me to think that it can further come apart. I’ll post results (good or bad!)
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Nov 23, 2018 18:14
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Please do! I've got a beat to hell M42 version of that lens I need to service at some point, be neat to see the solution to that group.
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Nov 23, 2018 18:43
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You were right! Put some acetone around the top joint and it eventually popped loose. Held the ring with my spanner, gripped the rest of the assembly in my left hand, and twisted like hell. Pretty sure those two bits I pointed out before are solder, as some scraping reveals soft metal, bit they hold something in further down, where I don’t need to access.  
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Nov 23, 2018 19:43
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Nice! Forcing poo poo is always such a worrying technique, but is so satisfying when it works.
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Nov 23, 2018 20:22
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Long shot here. I'm starting to refurb an Iskra and the leatherette is in pretty bad shape so its going to need replacement. I'd like to keep the original tire tread look if possible but I cannot find a source of leatherette that looks like this stuff. Would any of you know if there's a vendor selling something similar? Doesn't need to be precut or self adhesive or anything, raw sheets are fine. Alternatively I could try to salvage the existing material. It hasn't shrunken; just peeled away at the edges, but it is very stiff. If there's a way to safely soften whatever this stuff is made out of I'd also go that way. Smells like rubber so its probably vulcanized rubber. Might also be vinyl. Not sure if the Soviets were using that in the early sixties.  Worst case scenario I'll just reskin it with modern leatherette but I really like unique look of the original covering.
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Dec 1, 2018 02:28
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Not every story has a happy ending: Cracked the glass of my OG A7 in New Zealand a few weeks ago. I could tell the LCD underneath was fine so just ordered a replacement protector. It's relatively easy to get the factory protector off, but the glass is under that and is glued/laminated onto the LCD. I realise now the tutorials/DIY instructions I was seeing were just for the screen protector and not the glass itself, which is a huge PITA to get off. I found it is possible though - you have to heat it up with a heat gun and prise it off the LCD with guitar pics (the edges of which don't last long at all, you probably want at least a dozen). Even if it's still joined to the screen protector, the glass fractures easily so you can only get a tiny bit at a time. I was making very slow progress and tried upping the heat, which worked a lot better, but also cooked the LCD  You should wear eye protection if you attempt this as little flecks of glass go flying at your face every now and then. In hindsight it's not worth the bother, just going to order a replacement LCD assembly: is AU$85 vs AU$8.50 but far less hassle. Sauer posted:Long shot here. I'm starting to refurb an Iskra and the leatherette is in pretty bad shape so its going to need replacement. I'd like to keep the original tire tread look if possible but I cannot find a source of leatherette that looks like this stuff. Would any of you know if there's a vendor selling something similar? Doesn't need to be precut or self adhesive or anything, raw sheets are fine. Alternatively I could try to salvage the existing material. It hasn't shrunken; just peeled away at the edges, but it is very stiff. If there's a way to safely soften whatever this stuff is made out of I'd also go that way. Smells like rubber so its probably vulcanized rubber. Might also be vinyl. Not sure if the Soviets were using that in the early sixties. Don't know that you can find the tyre stuff, but check out http://www.cameraleather.com/ Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Dec 1, 2018 |
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Dec 1, 2018 03:49
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The leatherette on the Iskra was a total write off. Began to crumble once I started pulling on it. Will replace it with some swanky. In the mean time...  I fully predict that gaffer tape coverings will become the new hip thing all the  youth are into with their tight jeans and walking on my lawn. A temporary replacement is needed since the leatherette is part of the camera's light sealing and I want to use the camera.  Only the range finder left to calibrate.
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Dec 5, 2018 02:34
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Sauer posted:The leatherette on the Iskra was a total write off. Began to crumble once I started pulling on it. Will replace it with some swanky. In the mean time... I fully support this. As a punk hipster  , I long ago jumped from "duct tape everything" to "gaff tape everything". It looks loving great on that camera. My only critique is I would have lined the back from bottom to top, so that the seam lines would only be visible from lower angles.
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Dec 5, 2018 05:52
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Hi, fellow DIY goons. I’ll soon be taking delivery of a Bessa I folder, and some of the leatherette is deteriorated, so I’d like to replace it all. So far though I’ve not been able to find pre-cut replacement pieces anywhere. Anyone have experience in cases like this? Can one buy bulk sheets and cut them to fit? Self-adhering is preferred, I suppose, as I have no experience working with material like this. President Beep fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Dec 30, 2018 |
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Dec 30, 2018 17:32
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President Beep posted:Hi, fellow DIY goons. I’ll soon be taking delivery of a Bessa I folder, and some of the leatherette is deteriorated, so I’d like to replace it all. So far though I’ve not been able to find pre-cut replacement pieces anywhere. If you can take the original coverings off without too much drama, you can use them as guides to cut your own. Generally you want thin leather/leatherette and the stuff that is generally used for handbags is about the perfect thickness. So, hit up your local thrift stores and find an old handbag in a colour that you like. To attach it, the glue that was used at the factory would have been a shellac type. This is pretty easy to get hold of - but you'll want some kind of torch to melt it - a chef's flambé torch will be fine. You should be able to chip away the old glue without damaging the camera if you are patient. Don't use superglue whatever you do.
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Jan 1, 2019 05:42
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The old handbag route is a great idea. Thanks as well for the heads up on the shellac. I was initially thinking of using 3M contact adhesive. What’s the practical advantage of shellac?
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Jan 1, 2019 09:55
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Shellac won't react with the leather or the camera body in unexpected ways, it won't give off fumes loaded with residue that will coat optical elements or tiny mechanical parts, it won't go soft in hot climates or through heat transfer from your sweaty hands, and it can be removed easily without damaging the camera. It's often used for gluing parts on musical instruments for most of those reasons.
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Jan 1, 2019 11:20
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My Coolpix a is a glorious camera but there is hella sensor dust. What are the chances I’m going to gently caress it up hard by opening it up
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Jan 1, 2019 22:46
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Wild EEPROM posted:My Coolpix a is a glorious camera but there is hella sensor dust. High. Cheaper compact cameras are not generally designed to be serviced unlike more expensive models. They often have bonded fasteners that can't be opened without actually breaking something because the expectation is that you'll buy a new one rather than repair it.
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Jan 2, 2019 04:40
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How easy is it to peel off and re-attach leatherette? The shutter speed dial on my Yashica Mat 124 is a little stiff, and while I could live with it, it also seems easy enough to open up and clean those gears. The only part I'm iffy on is the leatherette,which I'll need to remove to open the front plate, and I've never dealt with that stuff before.
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Jan 2, 2019 06:03
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CodfishCartographer posted:How easy is it to peel off and re-attach leatherette? The shutter speed dial on my Yashica Mat 124 is a little stiff, and while I could live with it, it also seems easy enough to open up and clean those gears. The only part I'm iffy on is the leatherette,which I'll need to remove to open the front plate, and I've never dealt with that stuff before. Easy enough, the chances are (as mentioned above to Pres. Beep), that the leatherette is fixed with a shellac glue. You can chisel it away easily and then reapply it after reheating it with a torch.
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Jan 2, 2019 10:36
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I bought a Fuji lens from a fellow goon that had a bent thread ring. I've ordered one of those lens vise tools to coax it back into shape. Will post the results here on Friday. What could go wrong!
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Jan 2, 2019 20:30
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Helen Highwater posted:Easy enough, the chances are (as mentioned above to Pres. Beep), that the leatherette is fixed with a shellac glue. You can chisel it away easily and then reapply it after reheating it with a torch. Duh, I should read my own two-page thread.  Anyways, what's the best method to remove the leatherette without damaging it? I assume using a small screwdriver / toothpick / scalpel to kind of slowly peel it up while pulling gently on it? Slowly chisel away underneath it? Something else?
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Jan 3, 2019 16:10
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Wonder if a warmed up putty knife or similar implement would help to peel off the old stuff. Not hot enough to mess up the camera itself, but maybe just enough heat to get the shellac a bit gummy. I’d assume that any chemicals like acetone would ruin the leatherette.
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Jan 3, 2019 20:20
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President Beep posted:Wonder if a warmed up putty knife or similar implement would help to peel off the old stuff. Not hot enough to mess up the camera itself, but maybe just enough heat to get the shellac a bit gummy. That’d be ideal, I could just re-use the shellac rather than needing to buy more, and wouldn’t risk stretching / tearing the leatherette all that much. Maybe I could just use a blow dryer / heat gun on the front of the leatherette to warm up the shellac and make the leatherette easier to remove? I'm not sure what amount of heat could hurt the camera, but I think if I keep the heat gun / blow dryer a fair distance away, i can heat the front slowly enough to loosen the leatherette. In case it wasn’t obvious, I’d prefer to just re-add the leatherette back onto the camera, since it’s perfectly fine and I just need to remove it so I can remove the shutter casing and clean it. thinking about it, maybe I could just pull up the bits of leatherette around the screws to reveal them? e: After doing some research, it seems that if you’re really slow and careful you can peel up leatherette using a scalpel, and some isopropyl alcohol can loosen up the adhesive if needed. Being delicate with it, you can remove the leatherette without damaging it. It also seems that Pliobond is commonly used by repairmen to apply leatherette, so I might just pick that up from a local hardware shop and not have to worry about applying too much heat to my camera. Anyone have any experiences with using the stuff, good or bad? CodfishCartographer fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 3, 2019 |
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Jan 3, 2019 20:34
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Helen Highwater posted:High. Cheaper compact cameras are not generally designed to be serviced unlike more expensive models. They often have bonded fasteners that can't be opened without actually breaking something because the expectation is that you'll buy a new one rather than repair it. The Coolpix A comes apart just fine my company has converted several to infrared. HOWEVER messing with a sensor in a noninterchangable lens camera is way more complicated than a standard DSLR. Without training or test equipment you could gently caress up the alignment something fierce and not be able to fix it. I've been training for over a month on camera teardowns and I haven't even touched a point and shoot yet.
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Jan 4, 2019 01:39
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Uneventful correcting of a flat spot in my lens. Tool worked. Filters fit. I’m happy.
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Jan 5, 2019 03:38
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Longer effort post incoming, but I successfully opened my Yashica Mat AND put it back together in working order! Without damaging the leatherette! Bad news: turns out what was gunking up the shutter dial is inside of the shutter mechanism itself, and I am nowhere near experienced enough to try taking that poo poo apart. So while I didn't brick my camera, I wounded up back where I started. Oh well!
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Jan 7, 2019 00:45
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The Yashica Mat has a regular old Copal shutter in it. Probably one of the easiest shutters to service yourself if you're feeling up to it. This is the guide I followed when I took mine apart for the same reasons yours is having trouble. That guide is for a Yashica D but the mat has the same shutter. Pull out the timing escarpment dunk it in lighter fluid for a few hours, work it a few times, dunk it back in, repeat until moving without issue. Do not lubricate it (you can if you have light machine oil in a hypodermic needle and can apply the tiniest littlest drop to the gear posts). Usually no need to remove the triggering assembly. If you'd rather have a professional handle it, Mark Hama is the guy. He was an assembly tech at the Yashica factory when younger and has pretty much spent his entire life working on Yashica cameras. Sauer fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jan 7, 2019 |
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Jan 7, 2019 04:16
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Sauer posted:The Yashica Mat has a regular old Copal shutter in it. Probably one of the easiest shutters to service yourself if you're feeling up to it. This is the guide I followed when I took mine apart for the same reasons yours is having trouble. That guide is for a Yashica D but the mat has the same shutter. Pull out the timing escarpment dunk it in lighter fluid for a few hours, work it a few times, dunk it back in, repeat until moving without issue. Do not lubricate it (you can if you have light machine oil in a hypodermic needle and can apply the tiniest littlest drop to the gear posts). Usually no need to remove the triggering assembly. Ooh, thanks for that link! I'm leaving for Tokyo in less than a week, so I'd rather just deal with having a stiff shutter dial than an inoperable camera if I gently caress it up. I might try again at it after vacation, though! I'd heard of Mark Hama before, but apparently over the last couple months he's gotten slower / less responsive, and I've heard stories of people sending their cameras to him for 3-6 months with no communication at all from him. What I'll probably do is maybe see if I can get a junker body for super cheap and use that as practice before diving into mine. And hey, maybe with some luck I'd be able to fix one and turn a profit! Anyways, here's the story of my adventure.  Here's my Yashica, other than a few scuffs here and there it looks great. Which made it all the more painful knowing I had to peel off the leatherette.  First order of business is to take off the shutter lock switch. This is fairly simple, but requires a pretty small spanner to unscrew the nut that holds it in. My spanner was just barely able to fit on it to get it started, then I used a dental pick to finish unscrewing it. After unscrewing it, the shutter lock switch just lifts off. As I lifted it off, I felt the shutter button shift slightly, which was worrying. Turns out it's held in place by a spring, and the shutter lock switch + nut that secures it are what keep it upright and in position - removing them causes the shutter button to shift off to the side under the pressure of the spring. Luckily, this is easy to move back into its correct place, but it panicked me a bit at first.  Here I started peeling up the leatherette using a scalpel. I followed the advice in this video on how to remove it without damaging it. It basically boils down to being really slow and careful. Removing it was actually easier than I thought it would be!  I caused a few dings here and there while removing the leatherette, but they're pretty much invisible.  Leatherette successfully removed! You can see I took a small chunk out of the bottom-left corner, but it's still on the camera so with the leatherette on it's invisible. After removing it, I spent some time cleaning off the old glue from the body.  Next I removed the shutter's outer casing. This is NORMALLY done by removing five small screws, but this camera only had four. I guess someone lost one at some point! Also, ONE OF THE SCREWS WAS STRIPPED! What the gently caress, previous repairman? Luckily I was able to get it off and then back on without damaging it further, but I suspect it won't survive through one or two more openings. Maybe the missing screw was stripped so badly it was unusable? I also used some washi tape to hold down the shutter and aperture dials, just in case they're difficult to get back in the correct positions.  Here's the underside of the shutter outer casing.The gear closest to the photo turns when you rotate the aperture dial, and the metal clip on the left rotates a peg on the shutter itself to adjust the aperture. The clip on the right is attached to a gear underneath, which rotates a peg that sets the shutter speed. I assumed that these gears were gunked up and stiff (which they kind of were) so I spent a fair amount of time cleaning them with ronsonol. I had intended to open this up further and clean each gear individually, but the nuts that hold them in didn't want to budge. I decided not to try forcing them, and instead just poured in a little of the lighter fluid at a time, then turned the gears to move it around. I did this several times until they glided along as smooth as possible. Turns out the washi tape was superfluous, since it was very easy to just line up the clips with their corresponding pegs. I also dripped a little ronsonol into the shutter mechanism itself, but was very light with it since I didn't want it to travel to the wrong places. It was at this point that I put the outer casing back on and tried the shutter dial, only to find it wasn't really any better. Moved easily when detached, was stiff when attached - thus, the problem is in the shutter mechanism. Putting it back together was mostly uneventful. Pliobond smells loving AWFUL and gets everywhere, so wear a mask and be very careful with it. And probably open a window or three. The only other hiccup was putting the shutter lock switch back on, and screwing the nut back. Remember how I said that the shutter button was pulled away by a spring? Putting it back into place long enough to screw the nut on was surprisingly difficult. I was honestly a little worried I wouldn't be able to get it abck on, but eventually I managed to make it work. Tested everything as best I could without getting film developed, and it all seems to work fine! Unfortunately the shutter is still very stiff to adjust, but I can live with that for now. Anyone happen to have a junked Yashica TLR I can experiment on to practice getting into the shutter mechanism?
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Jan 8, 2019 03:44
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Landed a yashica mat in nice condition, and everything seems to be working, except for the shutter cocking mechanism. The shutter cocks manually just fine upon removal, but it’s almost like the throw on the automatic cocking lever that’s connected to the crank set is juuuust a bit too short to fully cycle the shutter and cock it. I’ve tried tweaking both the lever and the little receiving cocking tab on the lens, but no luck so far. It either causes interference with the body, or stuff gets too skewed to engage. The camera was only 55 bucks, and I really don’t want to spring for a CLA, especially since everything else seems to be working just fine. I might try to shim it. God drat thing...
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Jan 26, 2019 04:39
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Follow up: Some cleaning, slight tweaking of linkages, and careful application of some light oil to the cocking lever pivot in the shutter has brought this thing into seemingly good working condition. I couldn’t get the old leatherette off in one piece, so I’ve got a replacement front cover on the way. Now to run some film through it!
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Jan 27, 2019 16:51
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How do you do fellow scantily clad Mat haver?
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Jan 27, 2019 17:25
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Oh, cool. Same variant, right down to the adjustment dials. f/3.2 viewing lens?
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Jan 27, 2019 18:01
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Mine has the 2.8 viewing lens.
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Jan 27, 2019 18:16
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Ah, I think that’d put it just a bit newer than mine then. According to some hand notation I found on the back of the shutter I think mine was made in ‘68.
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Jan 27, 2019 18:19
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I'd been taking apart and cleaning a few lenses recently, a Zeiss Jena 135mm with aperture problems, a Minolta 70 - 200 proto-beercan also with aperture problems, a Minolta 135 with fungus that I got for a song and cleaned up really well and then my confidence got good enough that I took apart my everyday shooter, a Minolta 50 with a single fungus spot on the 2nd element. All this led me to my ultimate goal, cleaning up my Zeiss Jena Flektogon 50mm. It wasn't in particularly bad condition but had signs of fungus that, while not going to affect my photos like it was, would one day get to the stage where it would destroy the lens, and I really didn't want that to happen. The first challenge was getting the name ring off. Due to how convex the lens is getting anything flat and rubbery over it was a fools errand. Using rubber gloves and fingers provided no motion, and I started considering hand drilling two small holes in the ring to get a lens spanner in there. When I found out the ring was metal I gave up that game and decided to design a tool, a 3D printed name plate remover. Of course printed in sparkly plastic.  Armed with this I had to figure out how to get it to grab. After a few experiments with rubber gloves and sticky tape I decided to try shellac. I have shellac around the house for fixing fountain pens, so I dabbed on 4 dots to the lens ring, placed on the removal tool and left it 24 hours to cure. [  This did the trick, it grabbed hard enough to remove the ring, and thanks to it being shellac, was really easy to remove with a little force, then clean up spotlessly with some isopropyl. It's definitely a method I'll be trying again in the future for stubbon name rings. After that I was greeted with 2 tabs for a spanner lens, this didn't remove the front group, but a whole internal built up section comprising of groups 1 and 2 that's in the back left of the disassembled photo later in the post. The ring that retained the first element had no tabs, and instead was unscrewed by hand with the help of nitrile gloves. After removing that ring the front element didn't want to come out, and I thought was glued in place. I started trying to unscrew it and it moved, so I continued to do so until it just fell out. Turns out what I thought was the first element glued in was the first 2 elements of the first group, which is painted black on the sides. my guess is whoever painted the lens slapped that poo poo on then dropped it into the housing and called it a day so it dried stuck to the housing.    With that out, I could access every element that needed cleaning. Turns out group 2 was the worst affected of all, and almost certainly had to have some effect on image quality. Everything cleaned up really well and left almost no trace of damage, so I put that poo poo back together and tested that everything worked OK.  And there it is! Now it can sit on the shelf until I get the funds to send my Kiev back to Urkaine for a service, repair and MLU mod.
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Mar 19, 2019 10:44
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The white chipped paint looking bits on on the bevel of the front group is so common in older lenses it has its own buzzword, Schneideritis. Generally considered harmless but can be repaired by removing the old paint and reapplying with a flat black enamel if it bugs you. Megabound posted:Kiev... MLU mod Had this done to mine by Arax, highly recommend it.
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Mar 19, 2019 11:17
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Sauer posted:The white chipped paint looking bits on on the bevel of the front group is so common in older lenses it has its own buzzword, Schneideritis. Generally considered harmless but can be repaired by removing the old paint and reapplying with a flat black enamel if it bugs you. I actually kinda dig the look, and I'm in no rush to take it apart again. Maybe if I ever consider selling it.
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Mar 19, 2019 11:24
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Hello everyone, it's me, Pseudorandom, here with yet another story of me "fixing" something only to break it even more! I just bought an old Yashica-Mat LM that had a few minor problems. The first was the focus knob being free-turning and thus doing nothing; that was just a matter of tightening a nut that had come loose. The problem I was trying to fix here was that the camera's shutter button was missing. I haven't been able to find a spare for a reasonable price yet. However, when I was first testing the camera after I purchased it, I noticed a small loose part that later fell into the camera while I was trying to actuate the shutter though other means (read: poking with a screwdriver). I had a small hypothesis that the shutter button had somehow been pushed into the camera, so I figured I might as well open it up to see what was inside. The first step was removing the leatherette. I generally followed the advice, posted above by CodfishCartographer, for removing it. I neglected to photograph that process, but luckily the leatherette was really dry and kind of brittle, so I actually was able to get most of it unstuck just by applying pressure from the edges to shift it and break the bond of the glue. I managed to get it all off in one piece, except for a little of the top corner.  Naked Yashica:  You can see the missing shutter button on the bottom left. CodfishCartographer posted:Next I removed the shutter's outer casing. This is NORMALLY done by removing five small screws, but this camera only had four. I guess someone lost one at some point! Also, ONE OF THE SCREWS WAS STRIPPED! What the gently caress, previous repairman? Strangely, my camera also only had 4 out of 5 screws. In my photo above, the empty spot can be seen halfway between the left (shutter speed) knob and the brass-colored screw on the bottom left. Also, it's me. I'm the one doing the screw stripping. So, shutter outer casing removed, then the the lens assembly:   Watch out for those 4 little "C"-shaped spacers (two pictured, left in second picture). They like to stick and then get lost, and if other internet resources are to be believed, they may be very important for focus calibration. With all of that removed, I unfortunately did not find a misplaced shutter button, but I did discover that the loose bit I had seen was likely the screw that held the shutter button on (seen on the bottom left of the second picture). I wanted to make the camera usable, so I decided to improvise and make my own shutter button.   Re-assembled:   Now's the fun part. I don't yet have any suitable adhesive to put the leatherette back on, so I figured I'd make a temporary bit out of gaffer tape. I fiddled for a bit trying to think of a good way to make a stencil using the existing leatherette, but then I realized the easy answer: I could just scan it and make a copy.  Leatherette scanned, printed, and placed in-place on top of some gaffer tape stuck to parchment paper.  Stencil successfully cut out!  First half of gaffer leatherette.  All done!  (I forgot to take a picture with the shutter button nut present). So with this done, I tested it. Shutter worked fine, I messed with shutter speed settings, and then tried the aperture. That's when the aperture gear came loose or something and now turns freely, leaving the aperture wide open. So, I managed to make the camera more broken than it was originally within 30 seconds of "fixing" it.  Guess I'll be making another post soon when I attempt to fix that and break something else.
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Apr 3, 2019 00:32
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Dang, that homemade front cover doesn’t look too bad! It’s too bad you’ll have to take it back off to fix the aperture adjustment wheel.
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Apr 3, 2019 01:26
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