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Great thread! I had an Ill Advised DIY thread a while ago, but it got archived. A couple of points that could go into the OP. A lot of people use WD-40 as an all-purpose lubricant and cleaner. Never, ever, ever put that poo poo anywhere near your lenses. It's a penetrating oil which means that it will work its way through everywhere. Including the surface of the lens glass and the aperture blades. Once there it will trap dust and grime, creating a sticky gunk that will gently caress things up and require more cleaning in future. Focusing helicoids are usually lubricated with grease. Specifically molybdenum or lithium grease. You can buy it an an auto parts store. It's a few bucks for more than you will ever need. Get the old stuff out with ronsonol (any benzine based lighter fluid is fine such as Zippo brand) and a small screwdriver to chisel out the congealed bits. Add a tiny amount of the new grease at the end of the helicoid furthest from the aperture blades and screw the parts together and back off again to distribute it. Wipe off the excess before final reassembly. Most of the rest of the lens assembly isn't lubricated at all. Aperture rings sometimes have a ballrace which can get clogged with dirt, but it's almost always dry - no oil, no grease. Don't use ultrasonic cleaners on a lens unless you've removed all of the elements first. The vibrations can cause microfractures in the glass.
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Sep 17, 2018 05:00
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 14:33 |
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rio posted:Sweet, thanks for making the OP. What tool is used to take off the part that goes around the lens that usually has the brand, focal length, aperture etc on it (that sits under the filter threads, making a circle around the front element)? I assume there is a specific tool for this but if there is, is there any other way to remove it? Is it screwed on/off by the filter threads or removed in some other way? You use rubber cones to remove the front bezel, you can buy sets of them in various sizes. I have a set like this You can sometimes use a lens spanner instead, but it's not a good idea, because if you slip, you're going to gouge a nice line across the front element.
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Sep 17, 2018 09:44
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Powdered graphite is indeed an excellent lubricant for things like ballraces and aperture linkages. Just be very sparing in its use and be sure you've shaken out all of the excess before final reassembly.
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Sep 21, 2018 08:37
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President Beep posted:Hi, fellow DIY goons. I’ll soon be taking delivery of a Bessa I folder, and some of the leatherette is deteriorated, so I’d like to replace it all. So far though I’ve not been able to find pre-cut replacement pieces anywhere. If you can take the original coverings off without too much drama, you can use them as guides to cut your own. Generally you want thin leather/leatherette and the stuff that is generally used for handbags is about the perfect thickness. So, hit up your local thrift stores and find an old handbag in a colour that you like. To attach it, the glue that was used at the factory would have been a shellac type. This is pretty easy to get hold of - but you'll want some kind of torch to melt it - a chef's flambé torch will be fine. You should be able to chip away the old glue without damaging the camera if you are patient. Don't use superglue whatever you do.
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Jan 1, 2019 05:42
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Shellac won't react with the leather or the camera body in unexpected ways, it won't give off fumes loaded with residue that will coat optical elements or tiny mechanical parts, it won't go soft in hot climates or through heat transfer from your sweaty hands, and it can be removed easily without damaging the camera. It's often used for gluing parts on musical instruments for most of those reasons.
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Jan 1, 2019 11:20
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Wild EEPROM posted:My Coolpix a is a glorious camera but there is hella sensor dust. High. Cheaper compact cameras are not generally designed to be serviced unlike more expensive models. They often have bonded fasteners that can't be opened without actually breaking something because the expectation is that you'll buy a new one rather than repair it.
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Jan 2, 2019 04:40
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CodfishCartographer posted:How easy is it to peel off and re-attach leatherette? The shutter speed dial on my Yashica Mat 124 is a little stiff, and while I could live with it, it also seems easy enough to open up and clean those gears. The only part I'm iffy on is the leatherette,which I'll need to remove to open the front plate, and I've never dealt with that stuff before. Easy enough, the chances are (as mentioned above to Pres. Beep), that the leatherette is fixed with a shellac glue. You can chisel it away easily and then reapply it after reheating it with a torch.
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Jan 2, 2019 10:36
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Or just put some vaseline on the front element.
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Jan 9, 2020 04:37
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If anyone wants copies of the National Camera Technical Training Course, this guy has most of it up on his site with apparently the rest to come later. There are also a poo poo ton of service manuals and parts diagrams from a whole bunch of different manufacturers. They are all offered as free PDF downloads.
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Jan 12, 2020 12:22
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 14:33 |
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CodfishCartographer posted:This rules, the first two lessons are pretty standard - the first explains how the course works, and the second is more or less "how a camera works 101". The third course, which I'm on now, is all about lenses and how they refract light. Super interesting stuff even beyond its uses for repairs! It means the centre of a row of test patterns as shown in figure 74. The tangential lines will always be at the same distance from the centre line of the pattern group, the radial lines will cross it.
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Jan 12, 2020 21:12
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