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Darchangel posted:I found push in cable tie mounts to use on my RX-7, to replace all the factory cable-tie-with-mounts that broke while removing. I did find some replacement releasable factory style ties with mounts in one size as well (apparently Honda used exactly the same ones as Mazda, and both used them for umpteen years.) I figured the stand-alone mounts would be almost as good, since I could use whatever length commonly available cable tie I needed to. I found a supplier for OEM mazda style push mounts with the built in release tab. I've got 100 on order to test. I've always like the "reusable" style better.
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Apr 23, 2021 19:26
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the spyder posted:I found a supplier for OEM mazda style push mounts with the built in release tab. I've got 100 on order to test. I've always like the "reusable" style better. The ones I bought were generic, I think, but the Mazda part number actually crosses to several other auto manufacturers I found. Mind you, only one size (part number) was still available, but since it’s used on Miatas, it will exist in perpetuity. And I think it was the longest one, so win!
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Apr 24, 2021 01:52
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Spades posted:Spent a few hours cleaning RTV off the sump, which is usually a five minute job except this sump has strengthening press outs in the flange. Ended up wiping the RTV with petrol to weak its bonds then scraping it out with a broken piece of bamboo, which conveniently doesn't wreck the surface. Cleaned up the case to remove all the rust bubbling through the paint too. As someone who messes with sumps glued on by Toyota Three Bond Black RTV (i swear it’s the poo poo that holds the sun together) I can say with utter confidence that this is the exact reason why wire wheels in grinders were invented. Can fully strip a 6 cyl sump of RTV in about 10 mins.
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Apr 26, 2021 02:06
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Got some more reinstallation done. Before any firewall installation can take place I had to finish up installing the heat shield and sound deadening mat across the back wall. In the end I used the old fibreglass matts as templates and modified them a bit to account for the layering required, and smaller stretch factor on the sound deadening sheets. The insulation I used is ProForm brand black aluminium sound deadening, which I prefer over the DynaMat style stuff as it's a lot less flashy and doesn't come with any branding slapped onto it.  Cleaned out the master cylinders. Fluid color? BLAPCK. After filling the cylinder with new fluid I manually pumped the pressure through and blasted a gritty tarry mess all over my safety goggles so glad I was wearing those.  The old gaskets on the back of the brake servo, brake master and clutch master were all razor thin and worn to death so I ended up doing a gasket with butyl mastic instead. A lot nicer for gaskets of this nature than RTV as you can reseal them after installing them - useful this time round because I immediately realized that the brake lines cannot be slipped in behind the brake servo and had to back it out again.  Finally things are starting to come together with reinstalling a few parts rather than taking them out. Installed the hardlines for the brakes. Annoyingly, the hardlines on this ute aren't very cleanly bent from the factory meaning a lot of manipulation was required to get the flare fittings to line up. In the end I used a tiny amount of nickle antiseize to get them turning properly, which seems to be kind of controversial but in practice won't do any real harm if it somehow gets into the fluid anyway. Both of the two front brake lines were rubbed on the body holes to the point of approaching outright failure so I have plugged the front ports for now and will finish install and pressurizing of the brake and clutch systems after getting the new lines. Needed to do some more work on the clutch slave softline as it was rusty - will look to slip it back in later.  Also need to take a closer inspection of the rear brake lines as they might also be shot. Will probably need to redo the diesel hardlines as I have found rust on them. Spades fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Apr 30, 2021 |
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Apr 30, 2021 05:45
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Also today I received my set of cheap rear end Chinese rivet nut pliers, which do the job excellently for something which costs a fourth of the price of an actually good set. While I wouldn't trust them for stainless steel rivnuts, they are perfectly fine for the aluminium ones. Really is no replacing rivnuts for putting threads in automotive sheet metal - both super useful for blind holes needing tapping but also just saving yourself having to set a weldnut on a painted piece of steel sometimes too. You can see in the previous update that a bunch of the zip tie saddles have been installed with a bolt going through them and the rivnut, which I have driven into the old hole that used to house the plug ties. Conveniently, the 5mm ID rivnuts I have seem to have just barely over a 6mm OD, which means they squeeze fit with a bit of taphammering and fill the hole with no play at all.
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Apr 30, 2021 06:01
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Did you get that locally? I kinda want one. Don’t have a use, but when’s that ever stopped a man with tools?
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Apr 30, 2021 06:48
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BuckyDoneGun posted:Did you get that locally? I kinda want one. Don’t have a use, but when’s that ever stopped a man with tools? Yeah, just grabbed it off of Trademe - was about $70, I think you can get the same set for around $50 in Australia and probably 7 & 1/2 Yuan if you're willing to use AliExpress. It's worth it just because you'll find stuff to use it for even if you don't think you'll have a use now - pretty much anything you can pop rivet you can rivnut and have a removeable fastener instead, or save yourself from trying to tap thin material by just going straight to the rivnut instead.
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Apr 30, 2021 06:56
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Spades posted:Got some more reinstallation done. Oh, nice! I need to go get me some of that sound deadener. Very OEM looking. BuckyDoneGun posted:Did you get that locally? I kinda want one. Don’t have a use, but when’s that ever stopped a man with tools? I got an Astro Pneumatic 1442 for about $70, I think off of Amazon, though I'll be hanged if I can find the actual order. It does Metric and SAE, which was important to me being in the US and dealing with older American cars and stuff as well as my Japanese rides. It's currently US$70.29 on the US site - no idea if it's available in your locality: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-1442-Setter/dp/B003TODXQW I originally bought it to install rivnuts to mount an OEM cargo rack on my originally-rackless Jeep Cherokee, and it worked perfectly for that. Since then, I've used it to install rivnuts to mount the power window regulators in that same Jeep, and a bunch of new mounting points for stuff in my RX-7's engine bay. Enough that I had to buy another bag of M6 inserts.
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Apr 30, 2021 19:30
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Spades posted:Also today I received my set of cheap rear end Chinese rivet nut pliers, which do the job excellently for something which costs a fourth of the price of an actually good set. While I wouldn't trust them for stainless steel rivnuts, they are perfectly fine for the aluminium ones. Fun thing about these is you don't even need the tool to use them. I had to repair the spare tire mount in my SVX project and needed to install a single rivnut in place of the broken captive nut that held the spare tire hold down bolt. Not really wanting to spend the money for a whole set just to fix that one thing, I bought an assortment of different size rivnuts and used a bolt of the proper thread with a standard nut and washer, and used a gearwrench to snug it down and compress the rivnut. Worked perfect. Also a good way to install these in cramped quarters where you don't have a foot of clearance above the nut for the specific tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6H6wr7fJYo
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May 2, 2021 17:29
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Black88GTA posted:Fun thing about these is you don't even need the tool to use them. I had to repair the spare tire mount in my SVX project and needed to install a single rivnut in place of the broken captive nut that held the spare tire hold down bolt. Not really wanting to spend the money for a whole set just to fix that one thing, I bought an assortment of different size rivnuts and used a bolt of the proper thread with a standard nut and washer, and used a gearwrench to snug it down and compress the rivnut. Worked perfect. Also a good way to install these in cramped quarters where you don't have a foot of clearance above the nut for the specific tool. The only downside with this setup is things like the washer become consumables, but agreed that it's the way to go if you don't have room for the two-lever tool. I bought a factory skid plate for my old Grand Cherokee and it included an installer that was pretty much a slightly fancier version of this DIY method to install the rivnuts that came with it.
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May 2, 2021 19:28
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Finally getting closer to the stage where all the cleaning is done and the re-assembly of the engine can occur. Today spent a ton of time and diesel removing the massive amount of accumulated slime from every engine bolt, then putting the rusted ones into rust converter bath to clean them up. Will be a day or two before all the bolts are prepared as I don't have enough watertight containers to store all the sets of bolts in rust converter at this point. Also had what may or may not be a mishap with fixing the coolant hardlines - when 2k priming them I was using the bottom of the can sludge that I usually toss out and it seems to have not properly hardened. Will be a PITA to fix as I have already JBwelded the pitted to hell barb fittings so I am going to give the whole thing a week of extra drying time to be sure before I try to scrape them free of everything. Going to remove the power steering box and see what kind of seal I need to replace at the back of it as it seems like the actual shaft is fine and all the rebuild kids available are specific for that - going to presume that it's just a standard O ring in the box area. Last remaining pieces needing cleaning are the major accessories - starter motor, alternator, power steering pump and the diesel pump could all benefit from a cleaning up. Going to need to bag and label all of the miscellaneous hoses that need replacement too.
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May 3, 2021 08:43
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Darchangel posted:I got an Astro Pneumatic 1442 for about $70, I think off of Amazon, though I'll be hanged if I can find the actual order. It does Metric and SAE, which was important to me being in the US and dealing with older American cars and stuff as well as my Japanese rides. Amazon doesn’t really sell here, although they’re happy to avail themselves of our government screen production subsidies to film yet more Lord of the Rings here, what is and isn’t available is a crapshoot. That tool is, but as always then another US$30 in shipping, hence looking for local stock.
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May 3, 2021 12:42
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Black88GTA posted:Fun thing about these is you don't even need the tool to use them. I had to repair the spare tire mount in my SVX project and needed to install a single rivnut in place of the broken captive nut that held the spare tire hold down bolt. Not really wanting to spend the money for a whole set just to fix that one thing, I bought an assortment of different size rivnuts and used a bolt of the proper thread with a standard nut and washer, and used a gearwrench to snug it down and compress the rivnut. Worked perfect. Also a good way to install these in cramped quarters where you don't have a foot of clearance above the nut for the specific tool. IOwnCalculus posted:The only downside with this setup is things like the washer become consumables, but agreed that it's the way to go if you don't have room for the two-lever tool. I bought a factory skid plate for my old Grand Cherokee and it included an installer that was pretty much a slightly fancier version of this DIY method to install the rivnuts that came with it. Agreed, this is absolutely fine if you only have a couple or few to install. I did one or two that way myself, once just to test it, and once or twice because I didn't have room for the big Astro tool. It man-spreads something fierce. The smaller ones that work more like a cheap pop-rivet tool can be handy in certain situations, and adequate in the smaller sizes. The big guy handles are almost a fit long, and splay out almost horizontal, though you can adjust it an only do a bit at a time to prevent that. Definitely use a quality bolt for the home-made tool. You're putting a fairly serious amount of strain on those threads. BuckyDoneGun posted:Amazon doesn’t really sell here, although they’re happy to avail themselves of our government screen production subsidies to film yet more Lord of the Rings here, what is and isn’t available is a crapshoot. That tool is, but as always then another US$30 in shipping, hence looking for local stock. Sure, makes sense.
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May 3, 2021 18:30
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Getting pretty close to starting rebuild now - finally got the remaining welch plugs to stuff into the block (they sent me half as many as they were supposed to), got the power steering box off after severing the pitman arm with a disc grinder and a great deal of anger in the process (idiot rear end mechanic at the place that sold me the ute never greased the joint, so it was ruined, also never even fitted the grease nipple to grease the joint to begin with) and sent it off to rebuild. Going to need to get the radiator flushed out to remove all the goobage that is in it. Water pump, tensioner pulleys and belts have shown up, new head and gaskets have arrived. Still need to arrange for rebuilding the diesel injectors. Missing a bunch of crush washers for the oil cooler and copper washers for various oil lines, as well as some vacuum hoses. Need more rattle cord to insulate the wiring loom against vibration. Need some ATF for the power steering unit. -- As mentioned before, all the coolant pipes on the block and to the turbo were rusted to hell thanks to 25 years of using hose water instead of coolant, so they were dumped into a rust converter, pre-primed with 2k epoxy and then a smoothed off JB weld coat added to fill in the pitting and damage. Found that one of the heat shields had been cracked at some point through both skins, which came with the fun problem of having to try welding onto a a trapped air cavity filled with rust. Results kinda sucked and it's the first time I've seen glowing hot welds actively bubble and wander around as the oxygen contamination turns them into a giant ugly mess. Chucked everything into the oven to cure as the JB weld was not having it with the low temperatures as we come into winter.  Tomorrow the coolant pipes get a sanding/grinding to a smoother finish and then will be primed and painted. Not 100% how well the JBWeld and epoxy primer on the turbo sides of the coolant lines will hold up (generally both are at least safe to around 300 celcius, and the hot side doesn't actually contact the lines) but at least if it peels off here, I can make note to use high temp epoxy and directly apply header paint instead in future work. Spades fucked around with this message at 11:56 on May 14, 2021 |
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May 14, 2021 07:07
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Hit a little snag while investigating the rear brake lines - they're all a huge mess and have been painted to look like they were safe but most of them have pitting all over the place. Will get some new ones made up, and going to have them with pipe unions in the middle where the lines snake around the central crossmember as this made them nearly impossible to remove even after taking out the gas tank. Diesel injectors came to around $650 for a rebuild which seems insanely high for some lovely old couple-thou dollar ute but that seems to just be the reality of mechanical injection. Sunk cost fallacy hard in this project.
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May 19, 2021 06:08
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Yeah but at least you’ll have a known quantity at the end of all this, rather than rolling the dice on a new shitbox.
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May 19, 2021 07:20
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Pulled the gas tank and rear lines, got new lines made up which have shown up. Before I install them I'm going to give the frame rail a decent beating to make sure the trapped rust from the lousy underbody clean the owner didn't give the vehicle doesn't hang around. The gas tank had a bunch of pitting and particularly was hiding rust behind the dent skirt. Annoyingly I couldn't remove the dent skirt by drilling the welds out - when the crimp weld was done to attach the two halves of the tank, the mandrel must have been crooked and the crimp is outside where the welds were put, so I don't even want to touch that. Instead I purged the tank with soapy water and cut the skirt off the tank about 1 inch from the mounting flange - will spot weld it back into place after thoroughly derusting the area behind it. The gas tank's front evap breather was also mounted on a rusted out riser, which I've since fabricated a replacement. The rear brake valve needs repair as the stop bolt on it was totally bent to hell, so I'll hammer it flat and create a replacement using the original's depth as a guide. Also while I was doing all of this, I decided to give the universals a good rocking to make sure they weren't playing up anywhere. they were https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBc6Hj1Ggcc Will upload some pictures when progress is further along.
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Jun 9, 2021 07:08
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BuckyDoneGun posted:Yeah but at least you’ll have a known quantity at the end of all this, rather than rolling the dice on a new shitbox. True - will also accidentally have a near show vehicle, at least in the engine bay. I'll have to jump it over some things to return it to the munted appearance it should have, being a ute.
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Jun 9, 2021 07:29
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Setback with the gas tank - the jackass who paintbrushed a load of crappy paint onto it when they presumably replaced the original gastank, did this with latex based house paint. Naturally not even 2k primer will stick to this absolute trash - the chemical in the thinners pretty much immediately wrinkled the finish on the tank so I will need to get out the much hated paint stripper and return the tank to completely bare metal before trying to prime again. Annoyingly I had mixed up a half pint of primer to thickly finish the gas tank with, which ended up having to be tipped out entirely after one very light immediately raised all the corners of the original paint underneath. On the positive, because of how badly the original paint job had been done (basically a brush fill of unthinned house latex paint splattered all over the tank), once I do strip the tank clean to metal, the reprime will be a near perfect finish.
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Jun 10, 2021 06:07
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Classic “she’ll be right”.
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Jun 11, 2021 01:13
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Gas tank looked like this starting out: Killed all major rust and this was the way before the primer went bad. You can see the lots of little liver spots caused by the lovely latex paint getting lifted from rust forming underneath it.  Now it's mostly bald and living in my bathroom  -- Got the lines finished and painted, poorly  --- Started the rebuild on the engine. The best part of spending several hundred dollars on engine head refurb parts is that they give you these. The black ones are blackberry flavor!  Before even getting any parts bolted, had issues doing the welch plugs. Three of the plugs are too close to the jacket castings - had to weld them out with bolts. Fortunately the heat of the weld makes the plug shrink so removal is easy afterwards.  Plugs in.  Started rebuilding the oil pump plate, close up of timing the idler gear for the reverse-drive lower balance shaft. Repacked the seals on all of the front plates as well as the rear main seal.  About to install the sump after finishing all the engine plates and loctiting the oil pickup. For some reason this engine does not come with a crank girdle even though there are holes for one. I guess who needs the bottom end to be stiff.  Installed water pump and tensioners. Going to need to google to figure out how to time this engine, as there's a lot of timing marks on those crank pulleys.  Installed oil filter housing and block water return feed. Getting the oring on was a total bitch and the fit is tight as all hell, which I guess is pretty much how it should be.  Gonna be a while before I get around to putting the head on. Need to find a very thin wall deep socket which I can install the fuel injectors with (as well as figure out their torque and install process). The shorty headers on this block will make installing the engine with headers on impossible, so I will need to sit the engine in the bay and attach them in place. This will have to come after the steering box reconditioning is done, the chassis rail is painted, the gas tank is painted, and the brake and fuel lines are reinstalled. Spades fucked around with this message at 10:59 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 10:55
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Got more ute updates coming, but decided to go a different route with the Corvette and currently getting all the parts ordered in. Instead of keeping on with the Whipple - which while it makes 850hp, does it in a way that makes a big turbo on a 2 litre engine feel responsive by comparison - I'm going to get a procharger install done for the same amount of power but with what should be an absolute fucktonne less heat and weight. The huge supercharger doesn't really suit my driving style in the car and the weirdly massively loud engine sound at even 20% throttle makes it kind of unlivable for daily driving purposes so I haven't been getting so much use out of it. A major problem with the Whipple is also that they don't tell you about its total lack of road manners - a complete lack of response until about 3k rpm where upon you will literally get all 850hp to the wheels immediately without warning. It is so aggressive that I have traction problems in 6th gear while feathering the throttle, but until you actually hit that point it feels like you've got about 5hp. The other problem is the gear lash noise, which sounds like you just broke something time you come into or leave compression - instead of a nice supercharger whine you get a loud and annoying clattering that sounds like a jar full of marbles rolling down a staircase.
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Jul 12, 2021 09:32
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Sounds awesome. Judging by what I’ve seen for regular parts prices lately though, I bet this isn’t going to be light on the wallet!
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Jul 12, 2021 15:24
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I’m flabbergasted that it’s possible for a belt-driven supercharger to behave like that. The whole selling point of super chargers is fairly linear boost delivery.
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Jul 12, 2021 15:42
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Darchangel posted:I’m flabbergasted that it’s possible for a belt-driven supercharger to behave like that. The whole selling point of super chargers is fairly linear boost delivery. I think the issue is basically this - Due to having stock cams, it's probably maxing out CFM early and the lower NA torque underneath everything probably doesn't turn what are likely gigantic vanes around from their idle state with as much aggression as is needed to get the thing moving properly. It's not so much 'linear' as it is 'a brick', you make peak torque all at once and then if you have any grip left you get to try to modulate it as you suddenly from about about 50kph to 250kph in the space of 7 seconds. Due to this CFM thing, it also seems like the top 60% of your gearing is useless as the peak power is hit early and then there's no sensation of any further acceleration - kind of reminds me of an electric car which I also don't like the driving characteristics of. You still accelerate a bunch but the peak acceleration is done so low in the gear range that it feels like you're slowing down rather than speeding up. The 1:2 gearing between the sides of the supercharger vanes (as it's a 5 lobe / 3 lobe design) probably causes the heat issues since one side is running twice the RPM of the other, so the 'runs at half the speed of stock' thing is mostly a lie. I think this is probably also where the lovely sounding gear lash comes from as the gears can't be very nicely meshed with that kind of reduction. The heat is a pain in the gently caress because that aforementioned gearing problem means IATs get untenable really fast even on the street and you're down to 750hp from spark retard after one pull or so. Haven't seen how E85 affects this but if it can't even go on the street, with a considerably upgraded intercooler system, then it's got no way in hell of doing it on the track either. The noise problem seems to be caused by the supercharger hitting near-peak CFM early, which means that as soon as you reach 3krpm or so the thing sound like it's running at 6.5krpm full noise which is kind of embarrassing driving around town because mild throttle suddenly sounds like you're redlining the car just to gently crawl up to speed. The pitch/noise doesn't get any louder as you rev it out which is wierd and not really very encouraging - it just sounds like you're holding it at redline for no reason. I recruited my very-good, not a whipple supercharger M18 Fuel grinder to simulate the gear lash noise when coming into compression the Whipple - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFm7qg11_ss. You can hear the noise as the grinder decelerates and is turned by hand. This is loud as hell when it happens - considering how much bigger the gears in the supercharger are - and sounds like a rock crusher rather than the kind of noises you expect out of a supercharger. BuckyDoneGun posted:Sounds awesome. Judging by what I’ve seen for regular parts prices lately though, I bet this isn’t going to be light on the wallet! I'm looking at about 20k I'd assume after it's all done, but considering what a mess the existing system is it'll be worth it if I actually want to drive the car again afterwards instead of mostly just moving it around to keep the battery healthy. My impression is that the centrifugal setup will create a much more confident driving feel since you will have less power down low ('less' being relative - apparently it'll still be in the range of 600ftlb of torque from idle) but a very linear rise in power as the compression increases, basically like having a high revving NA engine. Since the gearing on the Corvette is well spaced apart and the engine revs quickly, it should allow you to use the higher RPM ranges reasonably well. As far as I'm aware from the dyno tuning, the current setup makes around 1000ftlb off idle and it sucks rear end, so something where you get to actually use the gearbox would be nice. Don't know if I'll come around to the weird Group B rallycar intake noises that quickly, but it's better to have a car you can drive. Spades fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 12, 2021 |
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Jul 12, 2021 21:21
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So, the lines - For some reason, all the hardlines on the vehicle are ran across the same part of the chassis member which puts four delicate hardlines within 1mm clearances of each other and they snake a considerable amount around the numerous crossmembers underneath the chassis. The tightness of how all the lines fit together means that at no point do you ever want to have a previous owner get the ute stuck in the mud and then never clean it off. oh  Removed all the lines and found that both rear brake lines were 50% rusted on the inside and barely able to clear with the air gun. Most of the lower half of the chassis rail had some rust due to the the crust being held against the chassis rail by the tightly bound lines, so I scaled most of the chassis rail.  Post primer and paint.  Stripped all the burst plastic (which was no longer protecting the lines and instead just providing a breeding ground for more rust) off of the fuel lines as they're too thick to be bent by hand and I had to reuse the existing ones. Etch primed and painted the new brake lines so they aren't too flashy.  Cut the dent plate off of the gas tank, removed all the rust scale and reprimed everything.   Welded the skirt back on and seam sealed the repair after repriming again.   Now reinstalling the lines quickly became a problem, because I had the new brake lines have unions added to them due to the near impossibility of fitting new brake lines back into the chassis rail without having to outright lift the cab off the frame, due to the tolerances being so unreasonably tight. But these unions are fatter than the total original clearances, so I had to improvise a way of hanging the lines from the middle crossmember backwards. Sheathed all the lines as they were pretty much detetermined to rub on every possible surface even with the hardline guides at the front 70% of the vehicle. The zipties are to hold the vacuum tubing in place while the clear RTV goes off inside the tubes to hold them onto the brake lines without any clamping in future.  As you can see the lines are just all over the place, and the bending that they had to take just to get them into place didn't help the lovely 1mm clearances. I tried a few approaches like using the zip tie organizing method for plug lines, but it wouldn't hold them down low enough and they started wandering upwards which makes them rub against the handbrake tensioning swingarm (which is, of course, about a quarter inch away from the lines). You can see though that a random hole in the chassis was a perfect size for an m6 rivnut, so I got some welding practice in on some sheetmetal and made a custom clamp to hold the stupid lines together. Shimmed each line with some vacuum tubing so that it's held firmly in place by the clamp.   As a cleanser, here's one of the farm's chickens that we grew from an egg last year. At least she works. 
Spades fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 12, 2021 |
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Jul 12, 2021 21:54
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As for the procharger, hopefully it'll sound something like these two. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAndONPjUtU&t=398s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdGvSPew5Fw I will probably look at getting the Akropovic titanium axleback for the car down the line, though I'd like to keep the narrower headers that I have for the sake of more low end torque. Don't want to go to cams as the car ends up sounding like a rotary at idle which isn't my favorite. The HP goal is the same as what we've got now, 850hp, which is on the low end of the scale for a procharger but maintainable heat and driving manners is really what I'm more concerned about.
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Jul 12, 2021 22:29
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I'm not usually a huge fan of how big V8s sound for whatever reason but that sounds fantastic. Obviously what you need to do is put the V8 from the corvette in to the ute and the turbo diesel in to the corvette. This thread is great, thanks for all the updates.
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Jul 13, 2021 12:27
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Minnesota Mixup posted:Obviously what you need to do is put the V8 from the corvette in to the ute and the turbo diesel in to the corvette. that sounds like a 'minnesota mixup' to me
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Jul 14, 2021 00:16
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Spades posted:As for the procharger, hopefully it'll sound something like these two. Have you looked at the A&A kit? It's still a centrifugal supercharger (made by Vortech). It's what I'm looking at putting on my base model. I'm just saving for the 2" primary headers, x pipe, cam, and clutch job to go along with it. That and pulling off the nitrous kit. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Jul 17, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 21:52
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This time through I'm getting the installer to do most of the spec work as they're a procharger specialist - they've specified a bunch of upgrade parts (improved balancer, 10 rib belt etc) that can be shortcomings in the basic procharger setup. Should be fine either way - compared to PD superchargers it seems like there's not as much room for variance here. Having good firsthand support is the main thing I'm concerned about at this stage as the Whipple's problems at least partly were due to Whipple being totally useless for any help with the issues. Which clutch are you going with? I have the triple plate / sprung center / cerametallic Mantic 9000 on the z06, which is good for something like 1800hp. I haven't tried any other clutches but I do like it - feels pretty much the same as the stock clutch, doesn't even have noticeable gear rattle as far as I can tell despite losing something ridiculous like 40lb from the flywheel. Only thing to complain about is the floater plate noise when you've got the clutch held in for a while, and that's more indicating that you're wearing the throwout bearing and have to go to neutral. Headerwise I went with 1 3/4 ARH headers as I wasn't looking for something that wasn't compatible with standard X pipes - are you getting ARH, Kooks or LG? Spades fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 22:08
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Spades posted:This time through I'm getting the installer to do most of the spec work as they're a procharger specialist - they've specified a bunch of upgrade parts (improved balancer, 10 rib belt etc) that can be shortcomings in the basic procharger setup. Should be fine either way - compared to PD superchargers it seems like there's not as much room for variance here. Having good firsthand support is the main thing I'm concerned about at this stage as the Whipple's problems at least partly were due to Whipple being totally useless for any help with the issues. ARH headers and the Monster LT1-S triple disc clutch.
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Jul 16, 2021 00:29
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EvilBeard posted:ARH headers and the Monster LT1-S triple disc clutch. I hear the Monster is pretty good - though with cars like this it's relieving that they just don't seem to actually make lovely clutches. The Altezza had a conversion to a single mass flywheel with some lovely Exedy clutch that cost about $700 but you could literally hear the springs jangle in it at times because they weren't even properly captive in the plate.
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Jul 16, 2021 00:33
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Spades posted:I hear the Monster is pretty good - though with cars like this it's relieving that they just don't seem to actually make lovely clutches. The Altezza had a conversion to a single mass flywheel with some lovely Exedy clutch that cost about $700 but you could literally hear the springs jangle in it at times because they weren't even properly captive in the plate. Yeah, I know a couple people who have used both, and they don't really have much bad to save about either. Both feel pretty stock and don't kill the street driveability. I'm using my bonus at work to buy a rear drag pack with M/T radials
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Jul 16, 2021 04:41
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Got the fuel tank reinstalled and the lines finished up.    A big storm came through, and with the ute blocking access to do the work on the workshop's doorway frame I haven't been able to add the sisterboard/back stop to the top of the frame yet - as a result it managed to swing the doors inside the workshop hard enough to pop one of the first welds I did two years ago to put the latch back in place. Got some more practice welding at least - having only gasless MIG wire and a stick welder is a bit limiting for weld quality but I've started getting more of a feel for it. To prevent the bolt being able to draw out of the door (the swing radius of the doors is so long that the shot can slip out of the yoke as it is), I welded a locking lug on the end of the bolt that can fit through the rectangular keyway when the bolt is at a 90 degree angle, but locks against the keyway when the handle is turned down.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0g30ch1qR0 Because the bumper hadn't been secured properly, one of the outriggers that holds it on was wandering around and had worn completely through the fender skin and thinned out a whole piece of steel around the point it made contact. Tried slagging the damage but it wouldn't have it, so I instead did a tiny patch weld to fix it up.   Also rebuilt and reinstalled the headlights - the old sealed beams certainly have a primitive but effective way of being mounted, allowing you to adjust the aiming angles without any of those lovely plastic gears that more modern headlights have. The whole thing is only held into the bodywork by a single spring that keeps the headlight tensioned against its own headlight adjusters which is kind of ingenious (presumably, until the little hook hole for the spring rusts off anyway). Spades fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 05:43
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Pressure washed the fender panels and the bash plates yesterday, dried them overnight and today grinded all the rust off. Fenders weren't too bad, though they had some pitting on some of the flanges that needed cleaning up. Used the torture wheel - one of these  to strip most of the initial rust off since I find that the less aggressive wheels don't do enough for pitting.Found that some of the pitting had blown through the metal so much that it was coming out the other side, so I used a method that I've previously used for filling in trim strip holes - widening the rust hole with a drill bit then welding a nail head into the hole before cinching the end off with flush cutters and grinding the whole thing down.  There is a satisfaction in making a clean enough job with the welder and grinder that you don't need to use much body filler, something I haven't really had the chance to experience in the past with my skills gradually improving over time. A few other spots needed welding too, some small patches were made up. Once the primer has set up, I'll be sealing up the sink through from the butt weld patches with some body filler and cleaning the dents up on the front a little. It's not critical this time round as it's a work ute, not a show car, but I might as well do a proper job ofi t.  The bash plates were a mess, as they were full of grass seeds and dirt which meant they hadn't been draining and had a huge mess of rust pitting. Also used a tree stump to remove the big dent in the front bash plate which had certainly done its job protecting the sump.  Ended up thinning the steel a little bit with a sanding back up pad put on the disc grinder (this actually works amazingly well, just make sure to use industrial 6 inch sanding pads because the ones you buy from a Bunnings will just fall to bits with that much torque on them). Primer on and, at least from the bottom side, you could barely tell how much of a mess they used to be.  After cleaning up these bits a little I'll be repriming them and giving them all antichip and some satin black. Decided against making them bright colored because it's not a mall crawler and the bash plates get hit constantly so they'll show the damage quick.
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Jul 28, 2021 05:34
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I have placed the engine within the cavity https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xeIAExPFu0 Remaining fixes are to get the cooling system installed, replace the heater bypass with a working heater, connect the exhaust pipe, replace the transfer case propeller shaft, install the airbox, finish the panel work and get the pitman arm installed on the steering. No signs of the ultra rough starting that the engine used to have, though we'll need to see how it goes with some break in demin water and then coolant.
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Aug 1, 2021 06:42
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It lives!
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Aug 2, 2021 17:55
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What side cutters are you using that can cut through a nail? I’d be nervous about inhaling the (admittedly tiny) amount of galvanization during welding too, but maybe I’m a little paranoid about zinc flu.
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Aug 2, 2021 21:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What side cutters are you using that can cut through a nail? I’d be nervous about inhaling the (admittedly tiny) amount of galvanization during welding too, but maybe I’m a little paranoid about zinc flu. I have a pair of flush style bolt cutters which cut it low enough to finish it up with the flap disc. No name brand but I think Knipex and similar do the same kind of cutter too. These are leftover 'bright' nails (raw polished low tensile steel) that I had left over from using them as panel pullers on the dented rear end van, so zinc gas isn't a concern this time round.
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Aug 2, 2021 23:07
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