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Got the primer and paint down on the fenders and will be waiting for the remainder of the week for it to firm up enough to be sanded back for a second coat - boat paint is generally a bit on the reactive side and needs to stop smelling like enamel before it's safe to retouch. In the meantime I've got the front clip to fix up, which has two broken assed bumper outriggers which will need to be almost completely refabricated. Shouldn't be the end of the world but will take some careful cutting and bending. Rubbish weather meant the paint did not take super nicely - needed to thin it so much that it didn't want to get onto the primer, and when it did it had a bit of splitting due to the limited binders. In future will preheat the paint to make it not as peely as well.  Second mix had more thinners and came out a little less ugly. 
Spades fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 9, 2021 23:17
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After completing the second coat (with some more issues due to the weather), have hung the quarter panels now that they've dried a bit. Finish is OK given that I used what's the equivalent of Rustoleum. You can see that it has comparable clarity to the factory paint which is good enough. I will be repainting the entire cab at a later date when the box is off the back of the ute, but this is just to protect the panelwork for the time being.   In unrelated news, have decided to ditch the bullbars and side steps as they're pretty useless and weigh a ton, with making my own ARB knockoff, 2mm panel steel reinforced bumper being the future plan. Will see if I can get a king's ransom of about $250 on facebook for them.
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Aug 17, 2021 09:31
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Been busy with the property and contracting work over this lockdown but managed to get the truck sorted out and it's being checked out for WOF as a back burner project for the local Ferrari garage (interesting story) over the last few weeks. Finished getting the ute back together - had to fabricate new outriggers to hold the bumper sides on. I was originally planning on welding patches into the existing outriggers but quickly found that the surface pitting went a lot deeper than it looked and they were basically pinholed over about 70% of their surface. So I fabricated replacements instead. The original vs the replacement - note that I've left out the "hook" on top of the arm which hangs off of the fender skin. As it turns out this was bad engineering - the vibration of the motor transmits through the bumper outriggers, and the rubber boot that sits on top of the hook traps grit which basically sands the inside of the fender skin off over time (hence needing to cut and weld those spots for both fenders).  Half of the thicker part of the outrigger was still unrusted enough to be worth salvaging, so I cut each of them in half. I don't have any photos of the process of fabricating the outside halves, but because they're made from 3mm steel I made a series of pie cuts and score cuts, beat them with a ball pein hammer for a few hours and then welded them back together in order to create the I beam 'curls' on the edges. The flanges that mount to the bumper were completely fabricated from 10ga panel steel - didn't quite have enough of it to make the entire shape so I welded a few offcuts together to make the complete piece. While still lumpy, the welds are getting better with more practice.  This is how all the parts go together, which naturally means the bumper never really fits right in the first place because you're depending on two pieces of metal, bolted together, held in sheer, to control both the depth and height of the bumper's mounting   Primed and painted the parts.  With the test fit sorted out, I filled some of the deeper crash marks in the bumper and painted it with bumper paint.  Then reinstalled it and all the fender liners. It immediately rained as soon as the bumper was on, so that was nice 
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Sep 23, 2021 20:01
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Also - the procharger kit is in country now and ready to be installed, but with Auckland still restricted for any cross-state travel it will be likely a few weeks off before anything can be done about it. We're still in the midst of a very wet spring so there's no huge hurry - but hoping to get there sooner rather than later. Fortunately, compared to the very custom fitting required for the Whipple, the Procharger fits entirely fine inside the engine bay without any modifications. We'll also be reversing the removal of the wiper cowl and I'll likely replace the hoodliner and various other parts that needed to be cut up to fit the useless supercharger.
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Sep 23, 2021 21:01
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Spades posted:Been busy with the property and contracting work over this lockdown but managed to get the truck sorted out and it's being checked out for WOF as a back burner project for the local Ferrari garage (interesting story) over the last few weeks. At least it's the right colour?  Great progress dude.
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Sep 24, 2021 22:29
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  later tunes eventually turned up 890 then 910 whp, which is probably enough. the lean spike down low as it turns out is a false positive from the exhaust flaps messing with the dyno sniffer and doesn't show up on the actual datalogger, which is good since 17:1 is not the best AFM option for continued engine operation.
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Nov 12, 2021 19:30
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 Holy crap that must be fun, what is that ~500 torque at idle?
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Nov 12, 2021 19:54
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Are you trying to move a small planetoid? Because that might do it.
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Nov 12, 2021 19:54
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That Toyota is the 'ideal vehicle'.
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Nov 12, 2021 19:55
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NitroSpazzz posted:
I'll be getting the car shipped back here in a week or two (covid lockdown restrictions combined with getting a concrete driveway poured and it will get in the way of things) but it's actually considerably less torque than the Whipple made, which was making around 1000 at 800rpm. This meant you could never actually lay into the car without wheelspin and it kinda sucked rear end, and by most owner accounts the procharger's torque curve is basically like having built in launch control even when just driving around normally so it should ideally lead to a much more tractable arrangement. It's hard to describe it exactly, but the Whipple never really actually let you accelerate as hard as it could unless you had the magic pedal position at any given moment - if you stomped on the throttle you'd immediately dip into TCM for a second or two before being catapulted afterwards all over the place.
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Nov 12, 2021 20:29
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Spades posted:I'll be getting the car shipped back here in a week or two (covid lockdown restrictions combined with getting a concrete driveway poured and it will get in the way of things) but it's actually considerably less torque than the Whipple made, which was making around 1000 at 800rpm. I'm so jealous. My A&A Ti kit with 3.6" pulley finally arrived. I can't wait to get it rolling, but I'm probably just around 625 rwhp on my base.
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Nov 12, 2021 23:13
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EvilBeard posted:I'm so jealous. My A&A Ti kit with 3.6" pulley finally arrived. I can't wait to get it rolling, but I'm probably just around 625 rwhp on my base. It will be interesting to see how it comes together, do you have any photos of the kit as it stands? If you have a thread for the build it would be interesting to follow along with it. I think you said you had the Z51 and were going to be doing a cam on the LT1 - should make a lot of power. Do you have plans to upgrade the fuel pump or will you be relying on an overdriven cam lobe DI setup? I went with the lowside upgrade to a Fore triple pump setup and a Holley Dominator EFI (via a Crawford Racing secondary injection setup) since I wanted to be as sure as possible that the fueling on the Whipple wouldn't be a problem - so I just had bungs added to the tunnel ram manifold that comes with the Procharger.
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Nov 13, 2021 03:54
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Spades posted:It will be interesting to see how it comes together, do you have any photos of the kit as it stands? I currently have a 13 base with a cam (and nitrous that I'm removing) . I'm gonna add the vortech supercharger (which is what comes with the A&A), 1 7/8" long tube ARH headers and xpipe, billy boat fusion exhaust, and some kind of fuel upgrade. I looked at Racetronix double pump kits and such, but I'm not really super keen on having to drop both tanks. I'm leaning towards building my own ECS kit. An external inline pump running off a boost switch to add fuel under load. It's basically an AEM 400 LPH pump, filters, and a regulator. run 8 an to the front, 6 an return from the regulator. I've bought the flex fuel sensor and connectors I need to run the car on E85. Adding 80 pound injectors and I should have enough fuel. I considered meth injection, but it's a street car, I wanted to keep my windshield washers. I'll probably start a thread when I start the build. Everything is currently boxed up, sitting. I'm still waiting on my axleback exhaust, since Billy Boat told me I'm about 4 weeks out while they wait on tips. Today I'm painting my Extreme Online Store ZR1 body kit, and then hopefully next weekend blasting and cerakoting my headers/exhaust in black. Then once the exhaust arrives, I'll pop the hood and front bumper off and get to business. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Nov 13, 2021 |
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Nov 13, 2021 20:24
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EvilBeard posted:An external inline pump running off a boost switch to add fuel under load. It's basically an AEM 400 LPH pump, filters, and a regulator. run 8 an to the front, 6 an return from the regulator. I've bought the flex fuel sensor and connectors I need to run the car on E85. Adding 80 pound injectors and I should have enough fuel. I considered meth injection, but it's a street car, I wanted to keep my windshield washers. I still have most of the WeaponX SPI kit that I got before getting cold feet on the idea of drilling a hole in my fuel tanks and having to lose the rear brake cooling - let me know if you're interested in that at all, the parts might prove useful even if the electronic wiring work seems kind of suspect going off what I read in the installation manual before deciding not to install it. Would let it go for whatever parts price we can come up with because I don't have any use for it and it's just taking up space in the workshop. https://weaponxmotorsports.com/products/weapon-x-spi-kit-secondary-port-injection-camaro-corvette-cts-v-lt1-lt4?variant=5777974296603 this is what the kit comes with, though we scavenged a bunch of parts from it for the build like the injectors. If you're already set on something else I'll just keep cannibilizing parts off of it - was going to repurpose the minisquirt v3 ecu that comes with it. Dropping the tanks is definitely a ton of work but fortunately this one time I didn't have to do it myself, so just having to spend money wasn't too awful. Apparently you can drop them without removing the trans (my fuel sender had some issues when they installed the tanks back in the first time) so it might not be terrible as long as you have subaru sparkplug hands. Spades fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Nov 14, 2021 |
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Nov 14, 2021 03:40
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C&M are still tracking down the rattles I was bitching about when I bought the car up, so I'll likely be looking at getting it dropped off next Tuesday instead of today. In the meantime, the car should sound pretty much like this when it's back. Not a terrible sound I think - the BOV not being as distracting as a lot of them can be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdGvSPew5Fw
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Nov 25, 2021 07:45
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Wild dude. There can't be many others in the country running this kind of power surely? You plan to track/drag it much? Hampton/Meremere? For some reason I think you're in Waikato?
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Nov 25, 2021 09:43
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BuckyDoneGun posted:Wild dude. There can't be many others in the country running this kind of power surely? You plan to track/drag it much? Hampton/Meremere? For some reason I think you're in Waikato? Tracking would ideally be in the plans, once I get my legs back by buying a friend's 350z and putting in a dozen or so trackdays with that so I don't immediately wall torpedo a car with this much horsepower. For a daily driver I think it's more up there, most 'car enthusiasts' in NZ are rampant liars and will claim that they're making 600kw or something out of their stock auto 2jz, but there are a few powerful cars that actually get driven as well.
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Nov 25, 2021 18:28
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For sure, plenty of bullshit out there. Certainly there can't be many other vette guys around eh?
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Nov 25, 2021 21:44
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BuckyDoneGun posted:For sure, plenty of bullshit out there. Certainly there can't be many other vette guys around eh? Pretty much never met anyone who is into performance driving and has a Corvette, they seem to largely be boomer cars. I've never entirely understood that, as the C7 is the only other car I'd consider besides a Porsche now after having driven dozens of supercars and such, nothing else really comes that close. Back when I bought it I was floating a 458 Italia or a 911 Turbo and neither of them were as fun as the Z06 is. NZ wise, given that the rising prices of 90s JDM cars means you can now have a c6 for less than the price of a well worn r32 gtst, but the c6 has the kind of performance that will still keep up with brand new sports and supercars while a family sedan model r32 ... doesn't. I'm not a Corvette historian or a particularly large fan of the other models of the car (the only other one I really like is the C2), but the history of constant race wins and generally being within a hair's width of the performance of top of the line cars that run 3-4x the price seems like there should be more people into them than you actually see.
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Nov 25, 2021 23:26
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Yeah the boomer image doesn't help, along with LHD putting some off I'm sure. I'd guess most 458/911 buyers here are brand snobs. On top of that, sheer lack of availability. I wonder if the C8 being RHD finally will make a difference. The Mustang still seems fairly boomer centric although I am starting to see a few younger guys driving them around Auckland. Never see Vettes, but around West Auckland I see a BUNCH of Hellcat Chargers. As an aside, used 911's seem decently priced here compared to the rising prices seen everywhere else? Early base 997's seem like a good deal if you're not seeking jumbo power.
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Nov 26, 2021 01:12
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BuckyDoneGun posted:As an aside, used 911's seem decently priced here compared to the rising prices seen everywhere else? Early base 997's seem like a good deal if you're not seeking jumbo power. I think I'd buy a 981 Cayman at this point if anything - the straight line performance is as good as a 997, but you get a nicer suspension layout as the 981/991 model cars have a massive improvement in that area over previous.  might be a little biased though I think the early 997s also have the older m97 engine which just isn't nearly as well built as the 9A1 in later models and all 981/991s. I have seen a bunch of non-critical but annoying failures where hard cornering with semislicks and the m97's lack of oil isolation leads to the oil apparently getting smooshed all the way back into the intake and then eaten on the next stroke leading to a massive cloud of oil smoke and black flagging. Spades fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Nov 26, 2021 |
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Nov 26, 2021 02:30
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I know that objectively you're right, but it's just the Cayman never really grabbed me, the 911 being such an icon. I do like the new GT4 and RS, super glad they finally decided to let the Cayman run free.
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Nov 26, 2021 07:05
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One of the intake sensors has played up on the Corvette on the day that it was due to be shipped back, so it's going to get addressed and I'll probably see it closer to the end of this week. In the meantime, I have been upgrading the workshop some more. I'll upload more pictures later. Had a lot going on in the last few weeks - - Laid the foundation poles for the extension, which will isolate the air compressor and forced air rebreather as well as a water pump, and also function as storage. First time laying foundations and it worked out alright - need some more wood to finish up the rest of it. - Built four new cabinets - three sets of drawers and one cupboard. The cupboard will be receiving a sink when I get around to finding one at the dump, which will be fed by a water pump that I'll add to the extension. - Installed a sister board onto the cripple stud across the top of the workshop doors - the cripple stud had been drilled out in the middle to fit a pair of latches at some point, which had massively weakened the beam which was now sagging and bowing. The sister board is 2 inches longer and prevents the doors from swinging slightly inwards, reducing the strain on the hinges and the propensity for the wind to try to blow the doors open - Welded up a new latch for the workshop doors which has a bolt with a locking lug, preventing it from being able to pop out due to the geometry of the big doors. - Cleaned up the front walls, painted them and added wall studs to level and plumb the walls. - Installed the cabinets on the walls - Installed pegboards for holding tools on the walls, and started creating plywood panels for backboards on the cabinets. I will be aiming to start framing the extension within the next few days, though a pile of rain coming in has slowed plans slightly. Massive shortages of corrugated iron will mean it might take a while before it sees full completion.
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Nov 30, 2021 00:48
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So, workshop stuff - The front wall had some pretty rear end-fuckward nog work and the girders are only plumb in one direction, so I had to do a bunch of scribed shim work to get the three layers of nogs in line before I could start the actual wall stud. Most tradies tend to just stick a piece of wood on something and hit it with the autoplaner until it looks vaguely straight, but I eschew actually flattening the wall, so stringline was deployed.  With the three nogs now plumb (though none of them particularly true and the bottom most one wandering something like 3 inches over its span) I got started by cutting some wall studs.  At this point I was about to set about setting up some mounting face nogs (fixed on end) but discovered my string line level was totally fuckwards and that they also no longer actually seem to make stringline levels, having gone over to laser levels entirely. Despite much internal resistance I decided to go and get one. Installed the mounting face nogs, then installed the cabinets with all the neccesary shim work to raise them to a constant level. 360 degree laser levels make this kind of work practically cheating so I'm glad for the investment.  Basic fit up for both benches, the face plates for the drawers are still drying after being linseeded so they'll go on soon.   On the outside, I got my brother and dad to give me some extra hands to get a set of shedpoles stuck in the ground. This foundation will be used as a base to add more studs to, add cladding and finally pour concrete into. 
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Nov 30, 2021 07:39
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I have been momentarily distracted from car stuff by the need to build christmas gifts in the workshop as well as rebuild a contractor's wheelbarrow, but in the interim, have this - Faceplates and doors mounted on the cabinetry.   Added a big powerstrip to the front one. Might go and add power sockets there instead, but having a breaker and the option to run a seperate RCD on the charger block is a nice option.  With the sister board above the roof in place, a new limitation reared its head that the doors' lack of a head flashing (and the general lack of flashings in this weird bogan built barn) was allowing rain to drop in between the corrugations, so I used to bench vice to press out and repurpose the useless internal gutters that came with the garden shed to instead work as a drip rail for the workshop door.  A view to start work on the Holden HQ wagon in the new year, but I still have a half dozen projects coming through the joinery business that I am running so I'll need to knock those out first.
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Dec 5, 2021 06:20
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Nice! Lord knows I've done enough work on non-car stuff to make it easier/nicer to work on the car stuff.
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Dec 9, 2021 00:07
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Darchangel posted:Nice! Yeah, having this proper cabinet set for just tools has made things super easy for working on stuff now, as I finally have enough benches and storage to put everything away and leave the benchtops clear. Good timing as well, as it's probably about time I clear some rust up on the Integra and correct the bumper fitment after a hidden treestump in the lawn decided to kick the front splitter's rear end almost right off the car. Also, car updates - at this point I should be getting the Corvette back on Monday. The airflow sensor had started throwing a code due to the way that the installation manual had it plumbed in behind the compressor instead of in front of it, meaning it was reading weirdly when compression started building up and would eventually read out of range enough to throw a CEL. Carl has sorted this out and things should now be behaving themselves. Power wise, the final tune figure on E100 (really more like E98 apparently) was 1014whp, and apparently the tuner's fabricator guy (who drag races a built rb30 turbo r32) gave it a drive and found it to be both terrifying and fun as hell, which is apparently an unusual level of compliment from him and reassuring information given how decidedly uninspiring the Whipple was. I am also hopefully going to receive either the HQ or the Commodore in a few months' time. And I have to also fix up the Ute some more, which needs new bed wood, a respray of the bed, and an interior clean up. The work ever continues. In less car related news, the progress on the extension is going alright. I've built 3 houses back when I was a teenager, but it's been so long since I've done much carpentry that it takes forever to get just something like this accurately framed to the 3mm tolerance I try to work with. Tomorrow I'll hack in the middle nogs, build a doorframe with some leftover 4x4 for the lintle and then I'm waiting for a 2x8 to show up so I can jigsaw out birdsmouths in the existing rafters then start hanging the rest of them. 
Spades fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 09:33
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 The car is back, though with outside engaged in what I'd call a "bitch rear end fuckstorm" of suddenly cyclonic rain I might be a few days out before I can get any reasonable impressions of it.
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Dec 13, 2021 01:05
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Took the car out for a drive anyway in making GBS threads rain because I wanted to see how its milder manners would be, it's actually pretty good. Hooks up better in the wet than the Whipple did in the dry alone, while the tractability from the better curve means you can roll on the throttle without worrying about dying too much. Engine note is now mostly big block chevrolet (guessing something about the tunnel ram and open cone intake are making it sound deeper) with some jet engine noises whenever you let off the throttle - pretty much what I was expecting going off of the other examples out there. What's nice is that the power and response are both very direct and linear, similar to the Type R instead of being a sudden big jump onto maximum power. It's more or less like just having a 12 litre NA engine - huge amounts of torque but no lumpy driving. Once this storm fucks off I will be able to let it out properly which will be nice. But immediately the driving characteristics are incalculably better than the Whipple setup, now better than any other supercar I've driven, bar maybe the original NSX but that's a fuckin high bar to aim for. In a related note, the Whipple is going to my dad who's going to put it on top of a 427 FE ford big block boat engine because New Zealand's populace is generally too incompetent to be able to install one so my facebook sales of the unit have been entirely fruitless. Nothing quite like a supercharger worth more than the rest of the engine, I suppose.
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Dec 13, 2021 19:47
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that reminds me, I decided to collate a few of the messages I got about the Whipple I kinda hope these people do fit a 1000whp+ capable supercharger that needs two sets of 1000cc injectors and multiple fuel pumps to their stock bottom end LS3 with its cast rods and pistons
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Dec 14, 2021 00:03
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Ugh dude. I just sold a 10ft alloy dinghy via Marketplace. What a loving shitshow. Asked $650, said where pickup was, included all details and excellent photos. Asked $650. Dudes just demanding "address?" No, I'm not giving out address so you can just come steal it, show some interest first. "I got $200." Well good for you, you need closer to $650 for this boat. "What outboard"/"Trailer WOF?" The ad specifically says 'boat only no trailer or outboard' and there's no trailer or outboard in the pics. Dudes just flaking. "On my way now/still coming/something came up sorry". TWICE. Then tried again when I relisted. Finally, genuine guy came, paid $600 cash, will come pick up over weekend. Still hasn't, but we got paid so no bother but wtf? If it weren't for needing the money, I would have chucked it in, it can stay there unused for all this bullshit.
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Dec 14, 2021 00:31
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Spades posted:that reminds me, I decided to collate a few of the messages I got about the Whipple Why you gotta attack us peasants with stock bottom end ls3s?
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Dec 14, 2021 06:23
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BuckyDoneGun posted:Ugh dude. I just sold a 10ft alloy dinghy via Marketplace. What a loving shitshow. Asked $650, said where pickup was, included all details and excellent photos. Asked $650. This is the primary reason I haven’t listed my AE86 anywhere but here. I’m terrified of the number of weeaboos who will be wasting my time. I plan to offer it to a dedicated FB group before the general Marketplace first, at least. Just got it inspected to re-up the reg, which I told myself *last year* I wasn’t going to do again… Whelp. …though the kid doing the inspection asked if I would sell it, and didn’t look too depressed when I rattled off $4k for it. Gave him my number to text. We’ll see.
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Dec 14, 2021 22:30
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EvilBeard posted:Why you gotta attack us peasants with stock bottom end ls3s? I'm sure the LS3 is fine for a high revving all motor build or minor FI with a small turbo or similar. But these are people asking if the largest supercharger you can get for an LT engine - which is a totally revised platform from the LS - will fit on a totally different engine with internals totally unsuited to high pressure forced induction when the supercharger costs probably more than their whole car did and can be expected to make more HP than their trans or differential can handle - will just 'bolt on' and go, as if the supporting modifications required wouldn't cost as much again on their own. Like 5 seconds of google would tell them how bad of an idea this would be, even if it would work, but they've done no research, see the most expensive supercharger listed on Facebook and decide they're going to take a look at it, hurf BuckyDoneGun posted:Ugh dude. I just sold a 10ft alloy dinghy via Marketplace. What a loving shitshow. Asked $650... but how often did you see 'wutz ur lowest price' really find fucken machiavellian bargainsmiths on facebook Darchangel posted:This is the primary reason I haven’t listed my AE86 anywhere but here. I’m terrified of the number of weeaboos who will be wasting my time. If you exported it to NZ you could probably get $40+k, the 'car community' over here seems to obsess over taking huge loans out to buy cars that they think are "gangsta as, bro" while ignoring anything built after about 1998. It's kind of laughable but I recently saw an AE70 for sale for the price of a second hand R35 GTR. However you'd need to live with it on your concience that the car will have these poo poo fuckin wheels put on it within 30 minutes of sale -  [specifically - must never be actual S1 3p Works, must never fitted correctly (stanced instead of ordering the correct offset, or on gigantic spacers), usually curbed, and always in this exact horrendous black center / polished lip combo] Also grandpa simpson long-rear end story time: I have been informed by old grandpa race drivers that the reason that 3 piece wheels sometimes would have an unfinished barrel combined with a finished center is that people would order custom larger barrels for the original centers, and since it was a race car they wouldn't bother painting/powder coating the barrel and just go straight to installing it. However, most of these two tone wheels out there now don't actually have a multi part design, just a bunch of cast fake studs on the wheel, and even if they were a 3 part wheel there's no reason to not get the wheel all finished the same way unless you're trying to affect having a sikk racecar on your auto single cam r33. So this is basically the 'painting the hood black, but using gloss paint and on a car with a hood that isn't flat anyway' of wheel design. Spades fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Dec 15, 2021 |
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Dec 15, 2021 00:06
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Got the briefest break in the storm today as it moves over the top of us, so I decided to get rid of the last of the ethanol in the tank and rolled throttle from 4.5k at 100kph. Timed about 5.1 seconds for 100->200 so that's fuckin' moving. Won't upload the video because I'm sure the NCIS or whatever would come and burn my house down but I will see about getting some corner carving recorded with the overlay turned off. I still can't launch the car for poo poo (lightweight flywheel certainly not contributing any assistance there) and I didn't really build it for drag with a D1X anyway, but an idea of the straight line performance it has doesn't hurt. Filled up with 98, the car is a little more docile around town and it loses a bit of the sheer aggression around the 1500 rpm mark, and doesn't hop as much if you are too sloppy on the pedal. If you didn't press the throttle too hard you'd swear the car is just an old man's cruiser, which is precisely what I wanted in the supercharger anyway - keeping the driving characteristics of the C6zr1 and C7z06 but with a proper 'top end' that keeps coming past 5.5k rpm. So far impressions are pretty decent anyway, I'm going to need to keep an eye on the oil cooling and see if I need to upgrade to an external cooler, but with my home at the top of a very steep continous hill the oil peaking up 5 degrees above the midpoint probably isn't anything to worry about. Spades fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Dec 16, 2021 |
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Dec 16, 2021 00:46
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sound when
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Dec 16, 2021 09:19
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Raluek posted:sound when I will have to see if I can get somebody to get a decent flyby, but as a reference this is what it aught to sound like since it's more or less the same build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdGvSPew5Fw In the meantime have me lamely poking the throttle to about 1/3rd in the rain with the clutch in on my driveway, because there isn't much else to do until the cyclone goes away. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tv4OgO0YhQs Spades fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Dec 16, 2021 |
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Dec 16, 2021 10:56
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Raluek posted:sound when sound now Finally had a small drive out with the car. Wasn't anything interesting to look at in the video as I wasn't back on my old pace with the car - probably need to put a track day or two in to remind me just how high the limits on the grip actually are. The GoPro doesn't really capture the bass very nicely so this is kind of screamy, but here's a little recording of the engine note. Haven't quite had the gumption to bring it to redline yet as it's a bit torquey at high RPMs, so the longest dig here is about 5k rpm. I am told that if you're around the car and don't have your ears crammed up the exhaust pipe that the blowoff valve noise is noticeable, but you can't hear it in this video because of the proximity to the exhaust itself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60x8G5SH03Q Spades fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Dec 18, 2021 |
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Dec 18, 2021 00:08
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Spades posted:I am told that if you're around the car and don't have your ears crammed up the exhaust pipe that the blowoff valve noise is noticeable, but you can't hear it in this video because of the proximity to the exhaust itself. That sounds mean 
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Dec 18, 2021 01:16
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hell yes. this is great.
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Dec 18, 2021 02:21
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