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gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
New(ish) truck, new thread. old thread for anyone who cares (noone cares): https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3772560

I bought a 1994 Toyota LN106 single cab Hilux a couple of months ago to replace my old Landcruiser. Details in short - 2.8 n/a diesel, stock-as-a-rock, full-on farmer spec poverty pack special. Strong odour of sheep, several kg of straw packed in every crevice. No rust except a bit of surface rust on one drip rail that I'm going to get fixed ASAP, and 146,000km on the clock when I picked it up. Compression so good the starter struggles to turn it over. Not even slightly limited slip anymore rear diff. Flat deck made of boards you're supposed to build a porch with. Epic 2.late power and fuel economy, great leaf spring ride quality and flex.



Stuff I've done already:
- Cleaned out some of the hay
- New stereo head unit (quality twist+tape work)
- Put my 33s on it which have destroyed the plastic front inner guards

Plans/to-do list:
- Seat cover
- ARB bullbar and convert my 24v winch to 12v
- 2" EFS lift springs + shocks
- Rear u-bolt flip (can't do a front without a crossover steering conversion)
- Front diff push
- Extended front brake lines
- Front driveshaft spacer
- Drop drag link
- Adjustable torque rod
- Swap my 33s onto new 15x7 -9 black spoke steelies since my D windows don't fit
- New speakers
- Solder + heat shrink head unit wiring
- Snorkel
- Replace AM/FM aerial
- UHF
- TURBO (with TD04 + 2LT manifold + bits)
- Auber Instruments EGT/Boost gauge
- Custom tray frame
- Rear E-locker
- Reduction gears in transfer
- Surf air box conversion
- Second battery setup for accessories + solar charging
- Custom sliders
- LN65 steering wheel because it's cooler

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Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

The reduction gears are awesome- Ive got 4.7's in my LN106 (KZN106?)

Tho its slightly ridiculous when your in 5th gear pinned on the limiter and are barely cracking 20kph. You get very used to popping between H4 and L4 when your moving between technical sections.

Adiabatic
Nov 18, 2007

What have you assholes done now?
Good christ I'm jealous. Don't let my MJ hear that.

aioli is just mayo
Aug 14, 2003

He has only forbidden to you dead animals, blood, the flesh of swine, and that which has been dedicated to other than Allah . But whoever is forced by necessity, neither desiring it nor transgressing its limit, there is no sin upon him. Indeed, Allah is Forgiving and Merciful
Ugh it's perfect.

wilfredmerriweathr
Jul 11, 2005
I'm just over here in the intermountain west thinking about how loving many of those would be populating our streets and trails had they been sold here.

I need it.

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
Started with the easy stuff today: $350 worth of canvas seat cover.





Then got stuck right into it




Except for PROBLEMS. Not sure how to resolve this short of reclocking the gearbox 90 degrees upwards and cutting a hole in my new ARB bar



Also discovered that the drop drag link I ordered with my new suspension didn't come so I can't do the springs today.

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
Hey this ARB bar doesn't line up with any of the bolt holes properly anyway, offset by a good 10mm to one side. Either the bar is poo poo or my chassis is twisted.

Why is nothing ever easy

Also ARB bars come with dogshit instructions & weird unnecessary fasteners.

Hard to see but drivers side has a much larger gap. Lots of bolts don’t line up well. Still looks rad and gives heaps better clearance but pretty unhappy with the fit at this stage.

gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Nov 13, 2018

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

gimpsuitjones posted:

Hey this ARB bar doesn't line up with any of the bolt holes properly anyway, offset by a good 10mm to one side. Either the bar is poo poo or my chassis is twisted.

Why is nothing ever easy

Also ARB bars come with dogshit instructions & weird unnecessary fasteners.

Hard to see but drivers side has a much larger gap. Lots of bolts don’t line up well. Still looks rad and gives heaps better clearance but pretty unhappy with the fit at this stage.



Chassis is slightly twisted. Mine was The same, we had to massage a few holes with the die grinder to get it to bolt up true. Bitched and moaned at ARB and it turns out that Hilux chassis arent the most rigid things in the world and the brand new 20km old one they built the jig for the bar off was a lot straighter than my 280K kms old one that had obliterated a roo at 115kph.

Check your front spring mounts- Mine cracked around the welds and I nearly had the drivers side spring become free from its moorings at the front of the chassis!

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




Can you clock the winch so the clutch handle points down towards that huge airscoop like opening?

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

Commodore_64 posted:

Can you clock the winch so the clutch handle points down towards that huge airscoop like opening?

That’s plan A once my offset fairlead arrives

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

Ferremit posted:

Chassis is slightly twisted. Mine was The same, we had to massage a few holes with the die grinder to get it to bolt up true. Bitched and moaned at ARB and it turns out that Hilux chassis arent the most rigid things in the world and the brand new 20km old one they built the jig for the bar off was a lot straighter than my 280K kms old one that had obliterated a roo at 115kph.

Check your front spring mounts- Mine cracked around the welds and I nearly had the drivers side spring become free from its moorings at the front of the chassis!

Local panel shop reckons my chassis is straight and the bar is up to poo poo. I’m paying them to tweak it because I have 2 days off work between now and finishing up for Christmas so I need it usable.

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
A while back I bought an old 24volt Engel MRFD540 for $140, which seemed like a bargain since it still worked, the modern equivalent is $1000+ new, and it was 24v only which was fine in my Landcruiser. The Hilux is 12v though. So I bought a $20 10a 12v-24v step up adapter thingy and soldered it up this afternoon. Seems to work. My first attempt ever at soldering things. I might do something different in future like hooking the adapter up directly to the 12v on the truck with a permanent 24v outlet in the tray, because it's a bit of a sub-par solution. Or buy a 12v fridge.

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
So I got the truck back. Local panelbeaters reckons the ARB bar is bent and they can’t adjust it to fit properly because of how a c-channel part of it slips over the chassis crossmember. ARB shop refuses to engage and won’t have a bar of even considering looking at the issue. Not really sure where to go from here but might just get the bar cut and reworded to fit properly.

At least I got the rust taken out of the drip rail and my snorkel fitted, and my 33s put on new -15 15x7 steelies so I don’t have to run illegal wheel spacers in the front.

slothrop
Dec 7, 2006

Santa Alpha, Fox One... Gifts Incoming ~~~>===|>

Soiled Meat
That’s some seriously lovely customer service on the part of that ARB shop. Is it worth threatening them with a Commerce Commission complaint? Or at least returning the part for a refund.

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Flick an email through to the head office in Melbourne. They take customer concerns pretty drat seriously and are good at dealing with problems. I had an issue with getting poo poo out of the SA distribution centre through my local dealer due to some useless twat running the DC and me making a noise got it sorted out quick smart

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
Going to pull my bar off at some stage and take some measurements. I think I might be able to space down one side with a bit of flat bar to make it at least level.

Old radiator had a wee leak in it so I changed it to a new one. Pretty straightforward job, the hardest part was changing the belts which were getting a bit perished, couldn’t loosen the alternator off enough to make it easy. Rounded off the alternator pivot bolt nut a little bit. That’s future Me’s problem. Took about 2 hours start to finish to do the lot. Only issue is that the fan shroud doesn’t seal up to the back of the radiator, the old foam seal is buggered. Will fix it at some stage.



Grotty old belts


Possibly not genuine parts


Gap

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
So it appears there are 2 issues with the fitment of the ARB bar, having removed it from the truck and taken painful measurements

1) it isn't straight and has been built poorly in such a way that is definitely a manufacturing fault, and the holes in the bar don't line up with the chassis as a result

2) the body on the ute isn't quite straight on the chassis. It's about 5mm higher on the drivers side than the passenger. Looks like the passenger side body mount rubber is a bit perished and compressed, I might replace all of those and see if it straightens up.



Also made a start on installing my suspension today. Got the old front springs, drag link, shocks, steering dampener off and installed the driveshaft spacer and new steering dampener. Will continue on the job tomorrow night.




so, to-do list

Plans/to-do list:
- Seat cover
- ARB bullbar and convert my 24v winch to 12v
- 2" EFS lift springs + shocks
- Rear u-bolt flip (can't do a front without a crossover steering conversion)
- Front diff push
- Extended front brake lines
- Front driveshaft spacer
- Drop drag link
- Adjustable torque rod
- Swap my 33s onto new 15x7 -9 black spoke steelies since my D windows don't fit
- New speakers
- Solder + heat shrink head unit wiring
- Snorkel
- Replace AM/FM aerial
- UHF
- TURBO (with TD04 + 2LT manifold + bits)
- Auber Instruments EGT/Boost gauge
- Custom tray frame
- Rear E-locker
- Reduction gears in transfer
- Surf air box conversion
- Second battery setup for accessories + solar charging
- Custom sliders
- LN65 steering wheel because it's cooler
new items:
-replace brake hard line that I rounded off the flare nut on even though I used a proper flare wrench
-body mount rubbers
-rotate gearbox on winch and install in bar
-extend diff breathers

I'm not longer sure that I'll go for a turbo on this truck. It runs pretty well without one and I'm paranoid about negatively affecting reliability.

gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Jan 8, 2019

snugglz
Nov 12, 2004
moist sod for your hogan

gimpsuitjones posted:

I'm not longer sure that I'll go for a turbo on this truck. It runs pretty well without one and I'm paranoid about negatively affecting reliability.

which TD04 were you planning on running? I've been plotting a swap in mine for a while but haven't had a minute on that side to make a plan (I have an entire 2L-T to pull from).

drat, this thread is making me miss my 106... it lives in South Africa, where I was based for 4 years. now I just visit it, and wait for it to turn 25...

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
I was going to buy a TD04 from a turbo shop here who reckon whichever TD04 they sell for the 3L is much better matched to it and performs better than the CT20 from the 2LT

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

The 4.7:1 transfer gears are phenomenal for really technical driving, but get really used to changing low to high cos poo poo gets reaaaal annoying fast when your banging the limiter at 4500rpm in 5th low at a staggering 21kph...

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
Yeah I’m not sure I’ll go for them at the stage, current gearing seems like it might be low enough even with 4.3 diffs and 33s


No further progress on suspension work. Need to drill holes in the spring perches to push the whole front diff forward, but I can’t get a decent 16mm hole drilled in test pieces with the gear I have, ie hand drill. Bits chipping, chattering, out of round holes. Going to pull the wheels off today and take the diff housing to an engineering shop and get the holes drilled so that I don’t gently caress it up.

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug
If you intercool it, adding a turbo should be a non-issue. It'll drop EGTs significantly and keep it close to stock EGT values.

You Am I
May 20, 2001

Me @ your poasting

*Aussie voice* Just chucka Barra innit maaaaaaate

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
Well for 20 bucks I got my local engineering shop to drill my holes in my spring perches in my 150kg front diff housing. Which was extremely easy to get there. Then got as far as installing new springs in the chassis and positioning the diff, to find that I only have 2 of the 4 u bolts that I need, and that I need to get my bumpstops re-drilled too. So more waiting for parts.... not the quickest process at this stage. Back end should go faster...

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

You Am I posted:

*Aussie voice* Just chucka Barra innit maaaaaaate

Nah mate diesel mate

You Am I
May 20, 2001

Me @ your poasting

gimpsuitjones posted:

Nah mate diesel mate

A diesel Barra? :v:

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

You Am I posted:

A diesel Barra? :v:

I think that’s called a 1HDFTE

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
Got a couple of bits and bobs done today, still waiting on u-bolts in the mail to finish up the suspension. Got the bumpstops drilled with new holes to match the diff so it's all ready to button up, just need the new bolts. I also found that the "2 inch extended" brake lines I bought are also pretty much the same length as factory so I am probably going to buy some 4-6 inch extended lines, the new EFS shocks have at least 4" more down travel than the factory shocks so at this stage I think the brake lines will be the limiting factor for flex. The EFS shocks seem to perfectly match the spring length at full droop which is nice, in the front anyway. Will put it back together with factory brake lines and when the new extended ones come I'll just get a shop to change them because the factory hardline flare nuts are seized in the soft line fittings and I rounded one off even with a proper flare wrench.

Swapping the AM/FM aerial was much more difficult than it should have been.

Rotating the winch gearbox and fitting to the bullbar was extremely straightforward and now the clutch lever for the winch is easily accessible.

Plans/to-do list:
- Seat cover
- ARB bullbar and convert my 24v winch to 12v
- 2" EFS lift springs + shocks
- Rear u-bolt flip (can't do a front without a crossover steering conversion)
- Front diff push
- Extended front brake lines
- Front driveshaft spacer
- Drop drag link
- Adjustable torque rod
- Swap my 33s onto new 15x7 -9 black spoke steelies since my D windows don't fit
- New speakers
- Solder + heat shrink head unit wiring
- Snorkel
-Replace AM/FM aerial
- UHF
- TURBO (with TD04 + 2LT manifold + bits)
- Auber Instruments EGT/Boost gauge
- Custom tray frame
- Rear E-locker
- Reduction gears in transfer
- Surf air box conversion
- Second battery setup for accessories + solar charging
- Custom sliders
- LN65 steering wheel because it's cooler
-replace brake hard line that I rounded off the flare nut on even though I used a proper flare wrench
-body mount rubbers
-rotate gearbox on winch and install in bar
-extend diff breathers
-new guard liners because the factory ones are damaged
-mudflaps on rear

gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jan 12, 2019

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
Cut off my ridiculous towbar that was welded to the tray. Departure angle is now much improved. Also hit myself in the face with it and gave myself a nice deep split. Probably gonna scar. Oh well.

Before



After

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

What the gently caress was with that towbar? Thats the most impressive piece of crap ive seen in a while.

4x3 on the fan shroud... interesting- My AU spec hilux had 4x2 written on it!

Pretty lovely behaviour by your ARB stockist- Definitely raise it with the head office in melbourne- I've never had an issue with getting stuff dealt with through my local store in Adelaide.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I've seen loads of bars mounted like that, they're strong enough but ruin your off-road ability yes.

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

Ferremit posted:

What the gently caress was with that towbar? Thats the most impressive piece of crap ive seen in a while.

4x3 on the fan shroud... interesting- My AU spec hilux had 4x2 written on it!

Pretty lovely behaviour by your ARB stockist- Definitely raise it with the head office in melbourne- I've never had an issue with getting stuff dealt with through my local store in Adelaide.

I wonder what the difference in shrouds is then?

Yeah that towbar was horrid, not sure if I’ll get a replacement that bolts to the chassis and has a removable bar or just not bother at all. Don’t see myself towing much in the immediate future

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Could be a different fan pitch/radiator combo? Yours is a genuine NZ delivered lux right? Cos an AU lux would have to deal with a far different temp range than an NZ one- Unless something has gone terribly wrong, I cant ever imagine seeing an NZ hilux having to beetle around in 45 degree heat.

dissss
Nov 10, 2007

I'm a terrible forums poster with terrible opinions.

Here's a cat fucking a squid.
I think they were still assembling those locally back when that one was built - probably quite a few minor spec differences.

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

dissss posted:

I think they were still assembling those locally back when that one was built - probably quite a few minor spec differences.

Yep mine was built in Christchurch which is pretty cool.

Hottest it will see will be mid-30Cs

rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working

gimpsuitjones posted:

I wonder what the difference in shrouds is then?

Yeah that towbar was horrid, not sure if I’ll get a replacement that bolts to the chassis and has a removable bar or just not bother at all. Don’t see myself towing much in the immediate future

On my Xterra I pulled the rear bumper off and welded in a 6" rectangle tube that I cut a square out of the bottom of and put a receiver tube into and welded it all the way around. It's at bumper height and I can stick a drop hitch in it to actually tow, otherwise it's totally out of the way and at frame rail height. They're not great for heavy loads built like that but for anything you'd tow with that rig it'd be fine.

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

rifles posted:

On my Xterra I pulled the rear bumper off and welded in a 6" rectangle tube that I cut a square out of the bottom of and put a receiver tube into and welded it all the way around. It's at bumper height and I can stick a drop hitch in it to actually tow, otherwise it's totally out of the way and at frame rail height. They're not great for heavy loads built like that but for anything you'd tow with that rig it'd be fine.

Yeah I'd probably do something like that, it'll definitely need a drop hitch cos it is going to be very high with the lift. Can't see myself towing anything in the near future so probably won't worry about it for now, except to get rear recovery points

Got the front end u-bolts I was waiting for, and got the front axle bolted up, drop drag link and adjustable torque rod installed. The lift on the front is RIDICULOUS for what is supposed to be a 2 inch spring lift. It's more like 4-6 inches at the moment. The factory brake hoses won't even reach the hubs and even if I could get them off the "2 inch" extended braided hoses I got would barely reach. I know the springs should settle with the bullbar/winch installed, and with some driving, hopefully it settles quite a lot because it is ridiculous at the moment.



Went to get started on the back end today, and it turns out that the rear u-bolt flip kit I bought won't work for me - it has no provision for bumpstops or mounting shocks. I could get around the bumpstop issue, but mounting shocks would require shock mounts welded to the rear diff as far as I can tell and that's further than I want to go at the moment, so I am going to buy some more factory u-bolts and forget the flip for the moment. Between waiting for those and waiting for new, longer brake hoses, I am stalled for progress again.

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

gimpsuitjones posted:


Plans/to-do list:
- Seat cover
- ARB bullbar and convert my 24v winch to 12v
- Front 2" EFS lift springs + shocks
- Rear 2" EFS lift springs + shocks
- Rear u-bolt flip (can't do a front without a crossover steering conversion) bugger that idea
- Front diff push
- Extended front brake lines
- Front driveshaft spacer
- Drop drag link
- Adjustable torque rod
- Swap my 33s onto new 15x7 -9 black spoke steelies since my D windows don't fit
- New speakers
- Solder + heat shrink head unit wiring
- Snorkel
-Replace AM/FM aerial
- UHF
- TURBO (with TD04 + 2LT manifold + bits)
- Auber Instruments EGT/Boost gauge
- Custom tray frame
- Rear E-locker
- Reduction gears in transfer
- Surf air box conversion
- Second battery setup for accessories + solar charging
- Custom sliders
- LN65 steering wheel because it's cooler
- replace brake hard line that I rounded off the flare nut on even though I used a proper flare wrench
- body mount rubbers
- rotate gearbox on winch and install in bar
- extend diff breathers
- new guard liners because the factory ones are damaged
- mudflaps on rear

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
shackles that look like this are fine right



Will probably replace them at some stage. Spent too much this month tho, bought an inflatable boat and a dodgy chinese outboard to throw in the back of the ute for fishing missions.


Lift all installed. Going to get an alignment (hopefully they can sort it out with the adjustable drag link etc) and brake hardlines done on Tuesday. Looks slightly higher in the front than the back, but all the weight is up front so I expect it will sag a bit with use. Winch etc is all wired up, will have to pull it all off again at some stage to do the body mount rubbers, but that will probably be a job for this winter.



Also bought some Landcruiser diff breathers off the internet and some 1/8BPS - 1/4" barb adapters and some hose and extended the diff breathers to well above any expected water level. So that's one more off the list.

gimpsuitjones posted:


Plans/to-do list:
- Seat cover
- ARB bullbar and convert my 24v winch to 12v
- Front 2" EFS lift springs + shocks
- Rear 2" EFS lift springs + shocks
- Rear u-bolt flip (can't do a front without a crossover steering conversion) bugger that idea
- Front diff push
- Extended front brake lines
- Front driveshaft spacer
- Drop drag link
- Adjustable torque rod
- Swap my 33s onto new 15x7 -9 black spoke steelies since my D windows don't fit
- New speakers
- Solder + heat shrink head unit wiring
- Snorkel
- Replace AM/FM aerial
- UHF
- TURBO (with TD04 + 2LT manifold + bits)
- Auber Instruments EGT/Boost gauge
- Custom tray frame
- Rear E-locker
- Reduction gears in transfer
- Surf air box conversion
- Second battery setup for accessories + solar charging
- Custom sliders
- LN65 steering wheel because it's cooler
- replace brake hard line that I rounded off the flare nut on even though I used a proper flare wrench
- body mount rubbers
- rotate gearbox on winch and install in bar
- extend diff breathers
- new guard liners because the factory ones are damaged
- mudflaps on rear
- 12v work lights in tray
- canvas sides for tray

gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Jan 20, 2019

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gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...
Lift seems to have significantly improved the flex. 33s will have helped too. Pretty good for a leaf sprung truck I reckon

Before: losing traction just on the top step, wheels off the ground.


After: all wheels on the ground and good traction with 4” of wood above the top step, could go higher probably.


E: can you tell I’m bored and really want my brakes and steering to be done so I can actually go drive somewhere

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